Need an opinion on fixing or selling. (9 Viewers)

[wimberosa]

If you really have all the engine, drive train, and soft parts....and they appear to be in good shape. I think
this is a prime candidate for a new cab. Remove the tub and soft parts down to
the frame....wire wheel or sand blast..the frame and fix/amend/coat it with a recommended sealer.
Get a complete cab which can be had for 12k (tpautoparts.com is an example). Be sure and investigate
reviews of these full cab suppliers. Put it back together and you could potentially have a 3+ fold
increase in value versus refurb cost.

Lots and lots of hand waving here because I don't know if you really have all the soft parts and
each missing/inferior piece will cost you plenty. Get a really knowledgeable 40 person to go over
it with you and produce an inventory of what looks good and what needs replacing.

 

[Living in the Past]

If you really have all the engine, drive train, and soft parts....and they appear to be in good shape. I think
this is a prime candidate for a new cab. Remove the tub and soft parts down to
the frame....wire wheel or sand blast..the frame and fix/amend/coat it with a recommended sealer.
Get a complete cab which can be had for 12k (tpautoparts.com is an example). Be sure and investigate
reviews of these full cab suppliers. Put it back together and you could potentially have a 3+ fold
increase in value versus refurb cost.

Lots and lots of hand waving here because I don't know if you really have all the soft parts and
each missing/inferior piece will cost you plenty. Get a really knowledgeable 40 person to go over
it with you and produce an inventory of what looks good and what needs replacing.

In less they changed tpautoparts only offered the 1/79 complete LHD body with the 10/82 (83 model) dash. Floor was 1/79-9/82. The insert for a LHD dash in has to find. Only a few hundred 83s were sold in the US. Would rather have the later floor with the pre 10/82 dash. Inspection cover comes with a complete body. Wouldn't want to spend that kind of money and have to redo the dash. The lower pads changed 10/82 as well. Another part hard to find. The 10/81-9/82 had the earlier floor and insert dash. Can't help if it wasn't a 82 RHD that based all their 1/79 bodies.

 

[6f40j9]

Personally, with all the work, back fees and smog check it needs to be current and drivable, I’d part it out; or if you’re dead set on having a cruiser, find a pre ‘75 that needs a heart transplant.

 

[cruisermatt]

agreed with the others you have a awesome donor for a pre-75 non-smog roller. +80 2F, splitcase, +80 axles, 3.70 gears,

 

[Wasatch Jay]

FWIW,

I am not the slightest bit knowledgeable about California vehicle laws, etc. If I understand you correctly: if you keep it and license it in California... you have to pay the DMV $1200-ish, and if you sell the vehicle... you have to pay the DMV $1200-ish. But if you use some, or even most of the parts, you don't have to pay the DMV squat. Hmmm? I like NOT paying the DMV....

In my opinion rust is like an iceberg, and what you can see is only part of what's there. I have NEVER seen front end sheetmetal on an FJ40 in such bad shape from rust. Rust on the undercarriage means a lot of broken bolts, and or bolts and nuts with rounded off heads. A simple task becomes a big PITA, as you deal with recalcitrant fasteners. You will very likely find brackets that are mostly gone. In my opinion, attempting to salvage much of the undercarriage will be extremely frustrating. Extremely!

I think many FJ40 enthusiasts who embark on a project way underestimate the time and money involved to acquire the myriad number of small parts that they need. But here, you're way ahead of the game because from the few photos I've seen, the vast majority of that stuff is there.

Yes, there are aftermarket body panels out there, but I think the jury is still out on Topnault, or whatever they're called now, or the other sources. Aftermarket sheet metal does not fit like OEM Toyota.

Based upon the information, I'd look for another FJ40 and incorporate the best parts between the two vehicles. By using parts from your Dad's rig, you are honoring his memory. Obviously I've never met the man, but I suspect he'd rather see you do that than go to huge effort and expense to rebuild his old FJ40.

Good luck with whatever route you decide on....

 

[sogncab]

In my opinion rust is like an iceberg, and what you can see is only part of what's there.

This. My 40 didn't look too bad, but it had to be hacked way further apart than I hoped, and put back together again.

I'd source another body before taking on that repair. Whether funding it, or doing it myself.




Was it near the ocean? The tinworm is impressively bad