Need a new carb. Advice? (1 Viewer)

[seanolsen]

I have a s***ty Chinese carb on my 83 FJ60. I guess I have 3 options. Go with original, city racer Japan carb, or holly type of deal. If I get a original what is the process JimC does and can I do it myself? Is the city racer already set up for desmog? Any problems with city racer?
Thanks guys! This site is amazing and full of knowledge.

 

[Seth S]

Depends on your budget. A Holley sniper setup will be the most expensive $1000-$2000 by the time you are done.

I think the stock is the best and you should be able to do your own rebuild...will be the biggest savings. But you might be able to find a used one ready to go at a good price.

I think the city racer carb is good too.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Always an Aisin fan. But. Holly Sniper is getting an itch in me. Need to try it. Getting great reviews from folks here.

 

[Spike Strip]

The Carb is also still available new, from Toyota, but it's the Non-USA spec. Just like the City Racer carb but Toyota OEM.

$900 -ish

 

[Willard]

Either get one from City Racer or get it rebuilt from Jim C at tlcperformance.
Marks offroad also I believe can rebuild these.

I have had two carbs built by Jim. The last one just arrive about 3 weeks ago. I installed it, pulled the choke, cranked for about 30 seconds (rebuilt carb) and it fired right up and idled perfectly. The first one was the same experience.
No issues not headaches no adjustments.

I have yet to go EFI (and believe me I have looked at it several times even purchasing the parts) simply because the stock carb works every time. Causes no issues and I have never had a carb leave me stranded no matter how messed up it is (Ford I am looking at you for your 9 models for a 1985 6 cyl).

 

[2mbb]

I have a s***ty Chinese carb on my 83 FJ60. I guess I have 3 options. Go with original, city racer Japan carb, or holly type of deal. If I get a original what is the process JimC does and can I do it myself? Is the city racer already set up for desmog? Any problems with city racer?
Thanks guys! This site is amazing and full of knowledge.

JimC or MarkA will professionally rebuild an OEM carburetor. I suppose they follow they procedure outlined the the 2F engine manual. You should be able to source a rebuild kit yourself (may have to search this forum for the proper kits). The kit is gaskets, o-rings, diaphragms gaskets, ball-checks, etc. The procedure is somewhat exacting and according to the FSM there are some special tools that could be used to make adjustments. I think the value that Jim or Mark bring is that they know what they are doing, may have special tools or know how to get by without them, know how the carburetor should be adjusted and will probably do a better job cleaning the old carb than you will. I think by the time you "tool up" to rebuild your own carburetor one time (including your time) it's most likely better value to have Jim or Mark do it.

 

[seanolsen]

So if I use the city racer carb I don’t need to do anything as far as desmog?

 

[John Staton]

I will probably get some blowback for even mentioning a Weber 38, but I am on here enough that I dont give a rip. My situation is that I am not super handy under the hood. Changing fluids, minor repair here or there, but I dont have the time or skill to do much more. I want to use my truck to hunt, and dont consider being a mechanic a hobby. I have done a lot, dont get me wrong, but most of my mechanical work has been done by a local shop. I have enjoyed restoring my interior.

With that being said, if you are someone who does not do a lot of mechanical work yourself and dont have a guy who is familiar and up on the OEM carb, but is a whiz and comfortable tuning a weber you can get great results. I got mine desmogged and added a weber along with a 5 speed and mine runs great. Peppy, idles around 600, no dieseling, etc.... very happy with my set up. It did take a bit of tuning, but only to open up the jets to get the idle right and to get rid of dieseling. Pic taken shortly after that work. I have since removed the heater under the seat and rerouted those lines.....big fan of how much cleaner it looks under the hood. Never a bad thing to remove failure points.

 

[HemiAlex]

I’ve had the following in the last 42,000 miles of daily driving this truck:

OEM aisan rebuilt by the PO: worked good, secondary diaphragm was torn/leaking

Trollhole: Chinese junk that came damaged out of the box. Secondary linkage was bound up and it came with free metal shavings in the bowls.

Stock stock stock 200,000 aisan. Smooth secondary operation. Felt great but fuel curve wasnt right for my desmogged truck. Plugged all the ports and disabled the choke breaker.

Fuji carb by city racer. Very few ports, no complicity and a secondary that is a bit firm. Recorded a best of 15.5mpg on flat ground at 65 with very minimal pedal pressure.

I’ve done the same lean drop method with all of the above and I used a vacuum gauge. I set my idle at about 750-800 ac on and off as I find that my truck charges better like that.

Ive wanted a JimC carb for comparison but I’ll likely go with a Sniper in the next year. I only expect cold starts and altitude compensation to be my new found gains.

 

[Spike Strip]

So if I use the city racer carb I don’t need to do anything as far as desmog?

There are no smog provisions on the City Racer carb. You also will not be able to have HAC (High Altitude Compensation).

 

[HemiAlex]

There are no smog provisions on the City Racer carb. You also will not be able to have HAC (High Altitude Compensation).

I’ve got this to work in a very rudimentary fashion, but if I had to deal with emissions I’d just let JimC build me one. I do miss my charcoal canister sometimes.

 

[Willard]

I’ve got this to work in a very rudimentary fashion, but if I had to deal with emissions I’d just let JimC build me one. I do miss my charcoal canister sometimes.

Someone on this forum and it seems I cannot find the bookmark now. Managed this with a spare Toyota vacuum solenoid mounted to an incab switch. When he hits a higher altitude he enabled the switch. I am still hunting for that post. Seems to have worked for him.

I still have my charcoal canister and am desmogged so not sure why you would have removed it. Even when I ran my Holley carb I managed to plumb it in.

 

[HemiAlex]

I get to 4,000 ft and I tee the pods together. It works great and l have gone over 14,000 ft like that. I thought about using a spare ac solenoid but it doesn’t seem worth it. It takes me 1 min to rig up.

I need to find that charcoal fix. I need a large vacuum source like the oem carb had.

 

[seanolsen]

I get to 4,000 ft and I tee the pods together. It works great and l have gone over 14,000 ft like that. I thought about using a spare ac solenoid but it doesn’t seem worth it. It takes me 1 min to rig up.

I need to find that charcoal fix. I need a large vacuum source like the oem carb had.

Tee the pods together? Can you explain that please?

 

[seanolsen]

Someone on this forum and it seems I cannot find the bookmark now. Managed this with a spare Toyota vacuum solenoid mounted to an incab switch. When he hits a higher altitude he enabled the switch. I am still hunting for that post. Seems to have worked for him.

I still have my charcoal canister and am desmogged so not sure why you would have removed it. Even when I ran my Holley carb I managed to plumb it in.

What does the charcoal do?

 

[seanolsen]

There are no smog provisions on the City Racer carb. You also will not be able to have HAC (High Altitude Compensation).

Would advancing the distributor help out at high altitude? I’m not a high altitude...but I want to be.

 

[Seth S]

Tee the pods together? Can you explain that please?

Guessing he is referring to splitting a vacuum line to actuate both the standard advance diaphragm and the HAC diaphragm.

 

[Seth S]

Would advancing the distributor help out at high altitude? I’m not a high altitude...but I want to be.

Yes, thats all that th HAC does. As you go up in altitude it provides additional advance to the distributor...thats why there are two vacuum ports on the diaphragm on the side of the distributor.

 

[Seth S]

What does the charcoal do?

The charcoal canister absorbs and stores fuel vapors from the gas tank and then when you are at steady throttle on the highway it has a valve that opens allowing the engine to suck those stored vapors back into the engine. Its an emission control device on every car made for the last 25+ years sold in the USA.

 

[seanolsen]

Guessing he is referring to splitting a vacuum line to actuate both the standard advance diaphragm and the HAC diaphragm.

Ahh that makes senses. I could also just manually adjust my timing at the distributor too I think. The PO disables almost everything on my rig. Almost zero vacume lines and I don’t know where to start really. This is my first carbureted car. What would you check as far as vacume to get her running smoother?