Malleus
Far west of Siegen
The service manual and EWD are in the Resources forum, 80 series section. Download them from there, if you haven't already.
Need 23 pin diagnostic port adapter to16 pin obd II (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter SoCal80series
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- Thread starter
- #22
If I am reading the manual correctly (DI 279 - my ABS light is always on) then I would need to create a wire from TC and E1 to OBD 1, 4, and 5?
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
EDIT: (using the 1996 Land Cruiser service manual, page DI-242):
terminal AB (23-pin) » terminal 8 (16-pin).
Without going through the 40-some odd pages of SRS diagnostics, yes:
terminal T1(23-pin) » terminal 1(16-pin), and
terminal E1(23-pin) » terminals 4&5(16-pin).
You also need (at least)
terminal +B (23-pin) » terminal 16 (16-pin).
You can alternately connect the leads from both connectors using a barrel connector and a heat shrink sleeve, if you want elegance. ("Elegance is for tailers", A. Einstein)
Again, I haven't tested this nor have I read or committed to memory the full testing procedure. You'll need to do a little legwork here.
FWIW, I have also had to do this on both of my 80s (both '95s). The alternating ground procedure only worked on one of them, and then only after several attempts. It didn't work on the other one and troubleshooting its circuits is on (but very low on) my list of stuff to do. If you disconnect the airbag connector and reconnect the battery BEFORE reconnecting the airbag connector, the light will come on, even if there are no DTCs, because the ECU is expecting a closed circuit at the airbag when the key is ON.
I did come up with a method, which isn't in the service manual, which you might have luck with. It goes like this:
Reading the manual, you'd be tempted to run a wire from each post of the battery to the DLC1 connector and try to move one wire from one terminal to another, in rapid succession. I did and gave up after several attempts.
What I did instead was run two (2) wires, one from each terminal in the DLC1 connector, away from the DLC1 connector, both with half inch bare ends on them. Holding them parallel to each other, with a very small gap between them, I used the wire from the battery to move back and forth between them, alternately making contact with first one then the other. This worked on the second attempt, after I got my rhythm. I also had two helpers, one with a stopwatch beside me keeping time and the other in the driver's seat, so I knew when and if this worked.
Having test wires with type 2.3II male terminals crimped onto them makes this (and all other work with the DLC1 connector) easier than sticking a paperclip into the female terminals in the connector (I'm guilty of that, too).
BTW, if you have a couple of male terminals and a barrel (sleeve) connector, you can make up a test wire for yourself. Lay them side by side, crimp them together with the barrel connector (I like the gold plated non-insulated ones) and then shrink a heat shrink sleeve over that. Then crimp a male terminal onto the opposite ends and you have a real test jumper that will positively make a connection in the DLC1 connector. You can throw away the paperclip.
terminal AB (23-pin) » terminal 8 (16-pin).
Without going through the 40-some odd pages of SRS diagnostics, yes:
terminal T1(23-pin) » terminal 1(16-pin), and
terminal E1(23-pin) » terminals 4&5(16-pin).
You also need (at least)
terminal +B (23-pin) » terminal 16 (16-pin).
You can alternately connect the leads from both connectors using a barrel connector and a heat shrink sleeve, if you want elegance. ("Elegance is for tailers", A. Einstein)
Again, I haven't tested this nor have I read or committed to memory the full testing procedure. You'll need to do a little legwork here.
FWIW, I have also had to do this on both of my 80s (both '95s). The alternating ground procedure only worked on one of them, and then only after several attempts. It didn't work on the other one and troubleshooting its circuits is on (but very low on) my list of stuff to do. If you disconnect the airbag connector and reconnect the battery BEFORE reconnecting the airbag connector, the light will come on, even if there are no DTCs, because the ECU is expecting a closed circuit at the airbag when the key is ON.
I did come up with a method, which isn't in the service manual, which you might have luck with. It goes like this:
Reading the manual, you'd be tempted to run a wire from each post of the battery to the DLC1 connector and try to move one wire from one terminal to another, in rapid succession. I did and gave up after several attempts.
What I did instead was run two (2) wires, one from each terminal in the DLC1 connector, away from the DLC1 connector, both with half inch bare ends on them. Holding them parallel to each other, with a very small gap between them, I used the wire from the battery to move back and forth between them, alternately making contact with first one then the other. This worked on the second attempt, after I got my rhythm. I also had two helpers, one with a stopwatch beside me keeping time and the other in the driver's seat, so I knew when and if this worked.
Having test wires with type 2.3II male terminals crimped onto them makes this (and all other work with the DLC1 connector) easier than sticking a paperclip into the female terminals in the connector (I'm guilty of that, too).
BTW, if you have a couple of male terminals and a barrel (sleeve) connector, you can make up a test wire for yourself. Lay them side by side, crimp them together with the barrel connector (I like the gold plated non-insulated ones) and then shrink a heat shrink sleeve over that. Then crimp a male terminal onto the opposite ends and you have a real test jumper that will positively make a connection in the DLC1 connector. You can throw away the paperclip.
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Malleus
Far west of Siegen
For all the real geeks reading this, here's a little aside from someone in Thailand (talofer99) who actually made this work.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
- Thread starter
- #26
This is what I need. However, it won't let me order it. I think it is probably limited to europe.
ppc
M Go Blue
I think you are looking at all of this incorrectly. It sounds like you want to connect the diagnostic port on firewall to an ODB2 scan tool. You already have an ODB2 port located in the fuse box to the left of the steering wheel.
Just creating some kind of conversion harness accomplishes nothing. The ECM would need to define the protocols and what signals are sent.
- Thread starter
- #28
The airbag diagnostics are in the DLC1 port in the engine bay. That is a Toyota proprietary 23 pin connector. I am trying to use my OBD II scan tool to connect to it. I am trying to find an adapter, but there are none available. @Malleus is explaining how to make one in lieu of actually having the adapter. Once the adapter is made my reader is capable of reading the airbag codes and resetting them.
1996 was the transition period between OBD I and OBDII. My Land Cruiser is a hybrid of both.
ppc
M Go Blue
Ain't going to work.
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
What OBDII reader are you using? Maybe it has functions I am unaware of.
As far as I know, the FZJ80/LX450 Airbag ECU is not OBDII compliant.
Toyota had specific testing tools for those ECUs not OBDII compliant. Maybe your reader can mimic those old Toyota testing tools? idk.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
It will work, there is an OBDI version for the 1993-1994 models. I have one.
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Malleus
Far west of Siegen
NeverFinis
SILVER Star
I haven't been following the OBD1 scene so this is all new to me.
Looks like a cool bit of kit, but the OBD1READ can't read or reset CEL, ABS, or SRS and I don't think Toyocom is available. I am not sure why newer versions of essentially the same thing dropped features.
The ability to easily read or reset ABS/SRS codes would be nice.
It would be even awesomer to send custom codes to the ABS system...no more custom cables to bleed the ABS...
Looks like a cool bit of kit, but the OBD1READ can't read or reset CEL, ABS, or SRS and I don't think Toyocom is available. I am not sure why newer versions of essentially the same thing dropped features.
The ability to easily read or reset ABS/SRS codes would be nice.
It would be even awesomer to send custom codes to the ABS system...no more custom cables to bleed the ABS...
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
That post was meant to illustrate the fact that the DCL1 connector can be used as the OP wants to use it. He is still selling them; I bought one recently. You could, if you were so inclined, buy it and just use the DLC1 connector end. I didn't think about it when the OP asked, because he was looking for an adapter.
You are over thinking this. I've got the factory Toyota scan tool from back in the day that plugs into that port under the hood.
I still use a jumper wire with the method in the FSM. It's way faster. It takes a few tries to get the cadence right sometimes, but it's always worked for me.
I still use a jumper wire with the method in the FSM. It's way faster. It takes a few tries to get the cadence right sometimes, but it's always worked for me.
- Thread starter
- #36
Who is the seller of this?
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
LMGTFY:
ZFScantools
But...he's now only selling his WIFi reader for ODB1; he was selling a connector with it, but it's not listed that way anymore. You now have to buy the DLC1 connector and make it up yourself. I just checked the conenctor he sent with the setup I bought from him last year, and it in fact includes a 22-pin connector. The 23rd terminal you're missing is the ignition timing override; that terminal isn't in the aftermarket connector.
You won't need that for the SRS, ABS or cruise control circuits, though.
Here's one that looks like what he sent me, minus the OBDII adapter (he conveniently cut that off for me):
ZFScantools
But...he's now only selling his WIFi reader for ODB1; he was selling a connector with it, but it's not listed that way anymore. You now have to buy the DLC1 connector and make it up yourself. I just checked the conenctor he sent with the setup I bought from him last year, and it in fact includes a 22-pin connector. The 23rd terminal you're missing is the ignition timing override; that terminal isn't in the aftermarket connector.
You won't need that for the SRS, ABS or cruise control circuits, though.
Here's one that looks like what he sent me, minus the OBDII adapter (he conveniently cut that off for me):
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Where did you find that? I've been looking for one for years, but everyone I've talked to told me that was a dealer item that was never sold elswhere and I haven't found a dealer willing to give theirs up.
- Thread starter
- #39
Never mind - I answered my own question. 
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