My scratch built expedition style trailer build up thread
- Thread starter REZARF
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- Thread starter
- #42
Here is my latest hold up. I needed to find a simple white wheel that matched my cruiser... nothing fancy just a white spoke wheel. I needed it in 3.75 backspacing to match the others on the cruiser (so I can rotate between all the different tires on the rig and trailer). The recent rage in black wheels has left the white wheels hurting for a few more common sizes... at least that is my guess. I went through ALL the manufacturers.
So I call Summit racing, and they can get me a custom sized wheel from US Wheel for an extra 10 bucks... no big deal the wheel is only 45ish dollars, so I give them the go ahead. Well, 5 short weeks later
the wheel is at my door... in raw steel!
So I had to track down a powder coater in the area (thanks Groucho!) and get it coated basic white. So my cheap 40 dollar wheel is now close to twice its original cost... oh well. Nathaniel did an AWESOME job and the powder came out great!
So yesterday I go to my local Sams Club and the dude behind the counter tells me he can mount them up for me... (we get all our work done there) and he says this one is on the house! AHHH, feeling better about the price of the wheel now. We tip the dude come home happy and now we can start chopping up the chassis this week!
That is what I gotta expect doing a scratch build...
Yippee!
Stay tuned
Rezarf <><
So I call Summit racing, and they can get me a custom sized wheel from US Wheel for an extra 10 bucks... no big deal the wheel is only 45ish dollars, so I give them the go ahead. Well, 5 short weeks later
the wheel is at my door... in raw steel! So I had to track down a powder coater in the area (thanks Groucho!) and get it coated basic white. So my cheap 40 dollar wheel is now close to twice its original cost... oh well. Nathaniel did an AWESOME job and the powder came out great!
So yesterday I go to my local Sams Club and the dude behind the counter tells me he can mount them up for me... (we get all our work done there) and he says this one is on the house! AHHH, feeling better about the price of the wheel now.
We tip the dude come home happy and now we can start chopping up the chassis this week! That is what I gotta expect doing a scratch build...
Yippee!
Stay tuned
Rezarf <><
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- Thread starter
- #43
Tonight was a fun night!
Gotta give a BIG THANK YOU to AxleIke! THANKS Isaac for your help!
Here is where we ended up tonight...
Because of the finite dimensions of the major components that require plumbing to work, the water tank and the propane bottle. I wanted to do a scale frame experiment before cutting into 200 bones of steel. I picked up a few 2x3's at the home depot.
Pretty simple to mock up, but it allowed for fitting of the 21 gallon water tank and the 11 pound propane tank. I wanted to make sure I could fit the tank, the plumbing fittings, and deck fill all within the area I have to work with... and after some head scratching and measuring... it does!
I also wanted to look at how much space I would have out back between the tires and rear bumper for the propane bottle. I also wanted to see how much space I needed in terms of bumper overhang (side to side) to make a feasible platform for the bottle to rest on. I plan on running integrated sliders down the width of the trailer that will serve double duty for mounting things to them like a fuel can, CO2, or propane tanks, and all will tie into the tubular fenders.
That is where we ended up. I am now stalled until my 220v 50amp breaker arrives... my breaker box manufacturer has been out of business some 20 years now, so finding the right breaker to hook up my welder has been another slight set back.
Pic one: the axle with the 35's. mmmm, 35's!
Pic two: My 2x3 wood frame for mock-up.
Pic three: final water tank position, this is the front end of the trailer. I will use a more permanent clamping system than Isaac
Thanks for looking!
Rezarf <><
Gotta give a BIG THANK YOU to AxleIke! THANKS Isaac for your help!
Here is where we ended up tonight...
Because of the finite dimensions of the major components that require plumbing to work, the water tank and the propane bottle. I wanted to do a scale frame experiment before cutting into 200 bones of steel. I picked up a few 2x3's at the home depot.
Pretty simple to mock up, but it allowed for fitting of the 21 gallon water tank and the 11 pound propane tank. I wanted to make sure I could fit the tank, the plumbing fittings, and deck fill all within the area I have to work with... and after some head scratching and measuring... it does!
I also wanted to look at how much space I would have out back between the tires and rear bumper for the propane bottle. I also wanted to see how much space I needed in terms of bumper overhang (side to side) to make a feasible platform for the bottle to rest on. I plan on running integrated sliders down the width of the trailer that will serve double duty for mounting things to them like a fuel can, CO2, or propane tanks, and all will tie into the tubular fenders.
That is where we ended up. I am now stalled until my 220v 50amp breaker arrives... my breaker box manufacturer has been out of business some 20 years now, so finding the right breaker to hook up my welder has been another slight set back.
Pic one: the axle with the 35's. mmmm, 35's!
Pic two: My 2x3 wood frame for mock-up.
Pic three: final water tank position, this is the front end of the trailer. I will use a more permanent clamping system than Isaac
Thanks for looking!
Rezarf <><
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- Thread starter
- #44
Here are a few more pics
Pic 1: A good try but impossible position for the water tank to fit... oh, but it would be so nice! Anyhow, there just isn't enough clearance to make it work.
Pic 2: The propane tank and distance between tire and rear bumper. The 2x4 on top of the frame is the rear bumper location.
Pic 3: Looking from the rear passenger-side, you can see where the propane tank goes. The big box up front is the water-tank box, and it is the EXACT size of the tank when you include all the fittings... gotta love it when that happens.
Pic 1: A good try but impossible position for the water tank to fit... oh, but it would be so nice!
Anyhow, there just isn't enough clearance to make it work. Pic 2: The propane tank and distance between tire and rear bumper. The 2x4 on top of the frame is the rear bumper location.
Pic 3: Looking from the rear passenger-side, you can see where the propane tank goes. The big box up front is the water-tank box, and it is the EXACT size of the tank when you include all the fittings... gotta love it when that happens.
73fj
Tho at sumbitch in ayer!
Why don't you plug the welder into your dryer outlet? That's what I did on a Lincoln 251......got an adapter from Home Depot.
Ordinarily a good idea, but his dryer is upstairs in his home, so he'd need like a 50 foot extension cord.
Or weld in the upstairs bedroom!!!!
- Thread starter
- #49
It will be tight, but I had a few elbows for fitting and it will make it... just barely but it will make it!
thanks, those are the kinds of comments I need to not screw this thing up. I appreciate it.
Rezarf <><
73fj
Tho at sumbitch in ayer!
- Thread starter
- #51
Go for it! Whats the worst that could happen?
My wife puts up with a lot of crap... but that ain't happening!
- Thread starter
- #52
I got to work on the rear bumper today. I only had about an hour, so I cleaned up my "scrap" piece of 2x4x.125" tubing. Cost about 6 bucks at the local scrap yard. Woo-Hoo!
Most of my time was consumed by laying out where I wanted to place my rear tail lights and clearing the frame rails without any clearance issues. Pretty basic but it takes time to do it right.
Here are the two lousy pics from today's happenings...
Pic 1: This is my gut and feet, you might catch the bumper at the top of the picture
Pic 2: You can see here how I lay things out for cutting and drilling... mucho exciting I am sure...
Can anyone guess what kind of tail lights I am using?
Most of my time was consumed by laying out where I wanted to place my rear tail lights and clearing the frame rails without any clearance issues. Pretty basic but it takes time to do it right.
Here are the two lousy pics from today's happenings...
Pic 1: This is my gut and feet, you might catch the bumper at the top of the picture
Pic 2: You can see here how I lay things out for cutting and drilling... mucho exciting I am sure...
Can anyone guess what kind of tail lights I am using?
Very cool. Can't wait to see this (the whole build not just the taillights).
bump for more progress
- Thread starter
- #55
Soon I have been dialing in my new welder, building this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=166332 and getting used to gas welding, I have been working a bit on this, and on the trailer too.
I should have lots to post up by the end of the weekend.
Rezarf <><
I have been dialing in my new welder, building this: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=166332 and getting used to gas welding, I have been working a bit on this, and on the trailer too.I should have lots to post up by the end of the weekend.
Rezarf <><
- Thread starter
- #56
I had some time this week due to my work schedule, and my wife being out of town for our new nephews birth!
I got a LOT of work done on the trailer so here goes...
First up was finishing the rear bumper before I had it was welded onto the frame. I needed to open up the bumper face to allow the rear tail lights to drop in. I used a jigsaw with the blade trimmed up about a 1/4" so it wouldn't hit the backside of the material.
After that was cut out, I used a 1" hole saw and I drilled three holes in the backside to allow the bulb sockets and wires to poke through (note to self: if doing this again, use 3x4" tubing instead of 4x2").
I got a LOT of work done on the trailer so here goes...
First up was finishing the rear bumper before I had it was welded onto the frame. I needed to open up the bumper face to allow the rear tail lights to drop in. I used a jigsaw with the blade trimmed up about a 1/4" so it wouldn't hit the backside of the material.
After that was cut out, I used a 1" hole saw and I drilled three holes in the backside to allow the bulb sockets and wires to poke through (note to self: if doing this again, use 3x4" tubing instead of 4x2").
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- Thread starter
- #57
After the lights were checking out okay I decided to knock the corners off the rear bumper to make it a bit better on departures, but in reality this is mostly for aesthetic reasons.
Then after cutting off the ends I got to put my new welder to the test. However, I made a rookie mistake and was using wire that was too light for the .125" material, I was using .025" wire. After jumping up to .030 all my welds started to sink in and make good penetration... more on that later.
Anyhow, these stuck well enough for the end caps and it was easy enough to grind them smooth.
Then after cutting off the ends I got to put my new welder to the test. However, I made a rookie mistake and was using wire that was too light for the .125" material, I was using .025" wire. After jumping up to .030 all my welds started to sink in and make good penetration... more on that later.
Anyhow, these stuck well enough for the end caps and it was easy enough to grind them smooth.
- Thread starter
- #58
So now the lights fit well and the bumper is coming along. I had to address the fact that the rear portion of the lights were hanging out. This isn't any good. All the water/grime from the road is heading straight towards them, so something needed to be done.
So, I got an idea from my fj40's lights. I decided to make a small cover for each of the lights. I started with a rubber grommet that fits the hole and provides some protection for the wires against fraying because of contact with the edges of the steel bumper.
Then I decided to make a thin sheet metal (pic1) cover to snugly fit over the grommets. I used my metal brake from HF to do this (pic2). However, to bend a hat shape you need a box brake... which I don't have. So I improvised and used my vise and a piece of 3/8" stock and some wrenches to make a break for the backside of each bend (pic3).
So, I got an idea from my fj40's lights. I decided to make a small cover for each of the lights. I started with a rubber grommet that fits the hole and provides some protection for the wires against fraying because of contact with the edges of the steel bumper.
Then I decided to make a thin sheet metal (pic1) cover to snugly fit over the grommets. I used my metal brake from HF to do this (pic2). However, to bend a hat shape you need a box brake... which I don't have. So I improvised and used my vise and a piece of 3/8" stock and some wrenches to make a break for the backside of each bend (pic3).
- Thread starter
- #59
Once I had the "hat" bent up, I installed the grommets and checked the fit. The final design will see a few tapped bolts holding the sheet metal piece in place. I will probably fill the ends with some type of silicone to make it extra water tight.
- Thread starter
- #60
After the bumper was set, it was time to start chopping the frame. My buddy AxleIke was there to document the moment
Once we rechecked all the measurements about 104.3 times we made the best cuts we could with the cheap-o HF chop saw... actually this saw sees a lot of use and hasn't giving me any grief yet.
Then we laid out the steel on the floor and recheck the measurements. Once everything checked out okay, I needed to scrub the mill scale off and file the ends and remove all the jagged steel from the inside of the tubes (so I don't cut my hands to a ribbon everytime I handle them).
Once they were clean, it was time to start getting my welding in tune. I spent what seemed like 2 days (I am a newbie/rookie welder) practicing on the tubing. I need to give a big shout out of THANKS to Uncle Ben, Red Chili, 2badfjs, and Green Machine all from my club www.risingsun4x4club.org for the help as I hammered them with questions over the past few days. THANKS GUYS! For all the drama see http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=4419
This is what my last few welds looked like before starting the trailer welds....
Once we rechecked all the measurements about 104.3 times we made the best cuts we could with the cheap-o HF chop saw... actually this saw sees a lot of use and hasn't giving me any grief yet.
Then we laid out the steel on the floor and recheck the measurements. Once everything checked out okay, I needed to scrub the mill scale off and file the ends and remove all the jagged steel from the inside of the tubes (so I don't cut my hands to a ribbon everytime I handle them).
Once they were clean, it was time to start getting my welding in tune. I spent what seemed like 2 days (I am a newbie/rookie welder) practicing on the tubing. I need to give a big shout out of THANKS to Uncle Ben, Red Chili, 2badfjs, and Green Machine all from my club www.risingsun4x4club.org for the help as I hammered them with questions over the past few days. THANKS GUYS! For all the drama see http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=4419
This is what my last few welds looked like before starting the trailer welds....
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