My scratch built expedition style trailer build up thread (1 Viewer)

[REZARF]

After fitting and cleaning each of the ends with a file and a super cool finish removing pad made by Norton called the "Rapid Strip" it was time to tack this thing up.

Clamping everything together and keeping it in place proved to be difficult until I used a big 2" ratchet to get everything snug. Once the strap was in place, I was able to tap things perfect with a rubber mallet, making sure everything was square in all three directions... this took quite a while and I had to remove a half dozen spot welds, then tweak it to get it just right!

This was very time consuming and it took myself and two friends to manhandle all the pieces into place, and make sure they were square. A concrete floor is not as level as one might think... but after an hour or two were were within 1/32" of perfect everywhere on the trailer.

 

[REZARF]

Once tacked in place and totally squared up, I was able to move it off the floor and onto a set of sawhorses which made it much easier on my back!

Then I welded all the top and bottom seams moving from the rear to the front. I made sure to move the welds around from side to side as we went forward as not to warp the frame through too much heat.

...then we called it a night.

 

[REZARF]

Today was my last day to work on this for a few weeks, as my job is about to get super busy starting tomorrow.

I woke up and got the frame up onto the sawhorses by myself... uuuuugh!

I stood it up vertically and used a 60lb bag of sand to keep it in place while I finished all the vertical welds on the frame. It is amazing how fast you can go once everything is fitted, cleaned, and tacked into place. About 10 minutes after starting I was done with all the welds on this section of the trailer.

After the chassis was cool, I took a grinder to the topside of the chassis to make it level in preparation of the cargo box that will go on top. I left all the other welds alone, so one day I could come back and giggle at how bad my first real set of welds were

 

[REZARF]

I wrestled the frame up onto the stands once more... uuugh! and then I worked on final fitting of the rear tail lights, it was simple just a few holes to drill and I was done... kinda. I miss marked my first set of holes and was coming up short on one side... there was no metal to drill into. That is when I realized I could add material by laying a few beads of weld onto the edge was coming up short.

Worked like a charm!

 

[REZARF]

After all that work these past few days I couldn't help but put it up on the newly made chassis (though not done yet).

I wheeled my 3,500# axle under the frame and clamped it into place just to see how high my frame height is and to double check fitment of the spring and shackle hangers. They are still loose so I need to burn them in once I get the drawarm finished, as well as, weld in the spring purches.

I was pleasently suprised to find out I am within just about an inch of where I need to be in terms of height, and making the trailer level with the rig. This is one reason I will wait to weld up the axle, so I can see where the drawarm/hitch height ends up being. Then I will space the springs down from the frame the ~1" or so I need. The other reason to wait is it will be MUCH easier to get the drawarm level and square if I can flip it from one side to another without the spring hangers on the frame.

 

[REZARF]

From here it is time to cut and weld in the draw arm system. I was planning on farming this out to my friend IanB on this board, as he is quite amazing with his TIG welder and this will be a highly critical weld area for the structural integrity not to be compromised, but I am going to practice mating 1/4" material to the 1/8" tubing and see where I am at in a week or two... if it checks out safe it would be cool to have done ALL the welding on my trailer.

I went ahead and did a small mock up of one side to see how high I wanted to go with the sides of the trailer. I am settling in on 22" high, but we will see when the time comes as to what the final height will be.

Check back in after a few weeks and I might have a bit more done, but we will see how it goes!

Comments welcome, but it doesn't mean I am going to change anything

 

[AxleIke]

Amazing man.

BTW, the pics don't do it justice: this thing is beef!

Also, the smoothed welds look really great, no spots or holes indicating icky weld.

I think a couple of evenings spent practicing with the drawbar material and you'd be fine to weld it yourself. Check with the guys like you did with this part, and once they think you are golden, burn it.

 

[bigassbike]

Inspiring! Well done!

 

[FJota]

Looks great. Often thought about building my own, but it has not happened yet. I will be watching this thread.

 

[photogod]

Great project! Fun to watch it come to life.

 

[73fj]

Theres nothing wrong with those welds man, project is looking good.

 

[spressomon]

Looks great Drew! Don't ya just hate it when you get fab traction and then you have to put it down for days/weeks?!

 

[REZARF]

Looks great Drew! Don't ya just hate it when you get fab traction and then you have to put it down for days/weeks?!

Sure do! But that is sometimes how life goes. I will be able to sneek a bit of time over the next week or two before things are crazy at work, but nothing like being able to take a few days and focus on the project.

I may try to knock out the drawbar during the evenings this week... we'll see!

The cool part is, I love my job, so it is a win win situation for me

Rezarf <><

 

[spressomon]

The cool part is, I love my job, so it is a win win situation for me Rezarf <><

Not many can say that...you're a lucky guy!

 

[Arya Ebrahimi]

Why are you making the drawbar out of 1/4"? As I said in your previous post, the trailer is only as strong as the weakest link. If you go and look at even the beefiest car haulers, they are still only using 1/8" or MAYBE 3/16" channel for the drawbar. If you are using tubing which is substantially stronger than channel due to the added rigidity of the 4th side, I would be more than confident in 1/8" wall stuff.

Just my .02 BTW the welds and the rest of the build look great!

Ary

 

[REZARF]

Why are you making the drawbar out of 1/4"? As I said in your previous post, the trailer is only as strong as the weakest link. If you go and look at even the beefiest car haulers, they are still only using 1/8" or MAYBE 3/16" channel for the drawbar. If you are using tubing which is substantially stronger than channel due to the added rigidity of the 4th side, I would be more than confident in 1/8" wall stuff.

Just my .02 BTW the welds and the rest of the build look great!

Ary

Your point is well taken... however, the draw arm will be unsupported on all sides. Meaning, it will be a stand alone bar reaching out and "bridgeing" the rig and the trailer. All the 1/8" stuff will be triangulated and tied in at several places, the drawarm is on its own for a longer span... so I chose to overbuild it, and I already bought it!

Rezarf <><

 

[Ullr]

Buy beer, I'll be right over bro

Your s*** looks good!

 

[REZARF]

Buy beer, I'll be right over bro

Your s*** looks good!

Thank you wise welding one...

-the young grass hoppah'

 

[rockwood]

Drew:

Puzzled by something.

The Ring on the trailer is fixed non rotating. The Hitch on the truck is fixed non rotating.

You need to get a rotating pintle to allow the truck and trailer to articulate in more than the vertical plane while off road. Heres a photo of the situation where a rotating pintle helps.

http://www.tawayama.com/gear/trailer/3263.jpg

 

[REZARF]

Drew:

Puzzled by something.

The Ring on the trailer is fixed non rotating. The Hitch on the truck is fixed non rotating.

You need to get a rotating pintle to allow the truck and trailer to articulate in more than the vertical plane while off road. Heres a photo of the situation where a rotating pintle helps.

http://www.tawayama.com/gear/trailer/3263.jpg

Rockwood-

There is a point where too much articulation leads to flop over's on the trailer. I am using a ball hitch combo, and there is still a LOT of room for articulation. I am not trying to tackle pritchett canyon in this thing, just overgrown fire roads and trails rated up to about a 3.

Thanks!

Drew