My Saginaw Power Steering Swap (4 Viewers)

[QuackAxel]

any info on what parts and part #'s you used for the drag link and end's??

thnaks
!

 

[AlexJet]

Very informative thread.
Did someone actually verified what exact part number should be for the 4-1/4 turn box from NAPA? I checked with the store and was told that they not normaly sells those parts and if they will, then they are Special Order and can not be returned. It may be because not that many are sold here in Canada. I can't find Cardone in Canada either.

 

[caz]

End of box hitting shackle?

All,

I am smack dab in the middle of this conversion right now, and I have a question.

I have not done a shackle reversal, and I am using Georg's frame plate. I want to sink the box into the frame like John has done here, but it appears that the end of the steering box will be against my shackle if I align it anywhere near where John has it shown above.

Anyone have any thoughts?

 

[orangefj45]

Raise the end of the box up some, that should give you plenty of clearance.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

 

[baja1d]

Can you push your gear box into the frame a little more? I did mine w/ spacers prior to the SR as well and didn't have a problem.

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

I ran into this same problem. You can either push the box out a little with spacers (ie: some grade 8 washers) or, do what I did: I ground down the corners at the top of the shackle to make some clearance between it and the box - then I cut the nut in half for additional clearance on that side as well. A little but it has been working alright so far.

I had a shop do this conversion, and didn't realize that this was an issue until I got it home and changed the shackles - so, at that point, clearancing the shackle was the path of least resistance.

 

[Stumpalama]

Raise the end of the box up some, that should give you plenty of clearance.

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

^^^^ x's 2.

It looks like you only need less than 1/2" to clear the shackle and nut. Level the box by lifting the back end up a bit. All of these installs require some amount of problem solving and adjustment.

Good luck and let us know how it turns out.

 

[caz]

Thanks all,

I don't think I phrased my question well - I know I can make it work where it is by moving it up, but if I recess it further into the crossmember like John did I am afraid it will not clear.

I don't want to hack out more of the crossmember only to find that it won't work further back!

 

[Stumpalama]

I'm not sure I understand your question. If you level it, by moving it up then you can decide if you want to move it in more or not. By moving the rear end of the box up, you eliminate any issue with the shackle... unless I'm missing something obvious here, which is entirely possible.

 

[John Smith]

Hey Andy, I understand your dilemma. What you can't tell is that I raised the mount plate above the frame rail and then ground it down to match the height of the frame rail. It looks like I mounted it flush to the top, but I didn't. That front upper bolt that goes through the frame rail is the limiting factor on placement if you want to use it. Without a shackle reversal I think it is better to mount it really high like the 4x4Labs does, but then you have to cut even more of the crossmember, as you are finding. I have seen people mount the box, both high and low, and not cut into the crossmember, but then you have to run a spud shaft, which I didn't want to do.

Perhaps there is a way to mount the box without cutting into the crossmember and not having to run a spud shaft, but I couldn't figure out how to do it.

 

[orangefj45]

Spud shafts are a thing of the past. I do t know why people still run them. I haven't installed one in over ten years .....

This is the only way to go:

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Spud shafts are a thing of the past. I do t know why people still run them. I haven't installed one in over ten years .....

This is the only way to go:

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

^^^ This. I used this setup, and Georg' plate.

The original set-up in my truck used a spud shaft. The spud shaft puts a ton of force through the rear of the box when the suspension/frame flexes, and results in a rear-seal failure on the steering box. Prior to me re-doing this setup, my steering box leaked badly due to the spud shaft.

 

[Downey]

Downey's 2 cents contribution, FWIW

(a) Although I make a saginaw power steering gear box mounting plate, I have no problem with folks using Georg's or anyone else's, provided you use it properly. Please do not mount your gear box nose low, mount it as horizontal/parallel to the ground as possible. When you mount gear box nose low, the rear end of your pitman arm (tie rod end) sits tail high, consequently the compound angle between tie rod end and pitman arm becomes even more compound. Then when your front diff drops down into off road terrain the "strain" can easily snap the tie rod end.
(b) The consensus on Mud seems to be that a 4 1/2 turn gear box is the way to go, I disagree. The 4 1/2 turn boxes tend to under-steer, unless you use a longer pitman arm to speed up turning. Then they tend to be too mushy on the highway, no road feel. If you opt for dual stage valving (nice and powerful at slower speeds in the boulders, and solid/tighter road feel at highway speeds), then the 3 1/2 turn boxes have a much better ratio than the 4 1/2 turn boxes.

 

[DDUBLU]

Downey, sorry for the ignorance on the subject, but how do you get the dual stage valving? I bought a saginaw ps system that was on another rig and then after reading here was let down because it is a 3 1/2 turn set up, not the 4 1/2. I was planning on selling and getting another one but your post got my attention. Thanks for any advice here.

 

[64Rotorhead]

Downey, sorry for the ignorance on the subject, but how do you get the dual stage valving? I bought a saginaw ps system that was on another rig and then after reading here was let down because it is a 3 1/2 turn set up, not the 4 1/2. I was planning on selling and getting another one but your post got my attention. Thanks for any advice here.

I'm interested in the answer to this as well. Studying up to do this on my rig, done a lot of reading but haven't heard of this.

 

[Stumpalama]

I had all the fixin's for a Saginaw install on my 40 then changed my mind and went with the FJ60 steering swap. The advantages of the 60 series steering is it is Toyota, they are all 4 turn boxes they are up out of the way and steering shaft routing is less complicated with more room between it and the exhaust/ EGR cooler.

 

[64Rotorhead]

I had all the fixin's for a Saginaw install on my 40 then changed my mind and went with the FJ60 steering swap. The advantages of the 60 series steering is it is Toyota, they are all 4 turn boxes they are up out of the way and steering shaft routing is less complicated with more room between it and the exhaust/ EGR cooler.

I'll check your "The Tick" thread, might there be some pics of your FJ62 steering?

 

[Larry Hemphill]

1 YEAR + RESURRECTION!!!!

I'm starting to gather parts for my Power Steering project; local NAPA tells me that the factory says the Saginaw box # listed at the beginning of this tread is no longer available!!!

Has anyone else encountered this, or are my local NAPA guys just that bad?

I was hoping that maybe someone had make, model, year, info for the Saginaw box, maybe I can get better service if I have more detailed info.

 

[B y r o n]

Try part number Napa 391033.

 

[Larry Hemphill]

Try part number Napa 391033.

Thanks for the response Byron;
Same result however. My NAPA guys cross referenced this number also, both factories say they are out of stock indefinitely.

I figure it's most likely due to lack of core returns, they just don't have any to rebuild.

Are there other Saginaw box options that anyone has used?

Otherwise I guess I need to hit the salvage yard, pull an old one, and hope I don't get a junker.