You guys are too hardcore. I just used a small zip tie.
My sagging seat back cargo net fix.
- Thread starter kybishop
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- Thread starter
- #23
Good question.
Good point. It will snag on them occasionally depending on your seat adjustments. If you have the seat far back and reclined some and the head rest from the rear seat is up any. The rear seat head rest can catch on this.
Just something to note.
Thanks.
KB
Good point. It will snag on them occasionally depending on your seat adjustments. If you have the seat far back and reclined some and the head rest from the rear seat is up any. The rear seat head rest can catch on this.
Just something to note.
Thanks.
KB
Quick, simple and adjustable. You can't beat that. Thanks for posting. I was going to use some 550 cord to replace the stretched out one but I like this because it is adjustable. 
very nice!I did indeed have some lace locks just sitting in my night stand so 5 min later I had this banana chip of a mod completed.
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #26
I did indeed have some lace locks just sitting in my night stand so 5 min later I had this banana chip of a mod completed.
Thanks
Well you weren't supposed to go and make yours prettier than mine...
So funny that this thread has picked up all these years later!
Although the shell of my 80 is roasting away in the California High Desert after parting it out the seats with shoe string zips lives on in my buddies LX450
Although the shell of my 80 is roasting away in the California High Desert after parting it out the seats with shoe string zips lives on in my buddies LX450
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I would like to thank you for this zero dollar fix. My younger son will just have to tie those shoes now.
There is mention of balls and saggy nets in this thread!
Yep, 'shoe lace locks' are the way to go. Makes the netting somewhat adjustable at the top too.
You guys here on 'MUD' are some smart folks.
Thanks,
Flint.
You guys here on 'MUD' are some smart folks.
Thanks,
Flint.
- Thread starter
- #31
I think my nets got saggy with age. Not uncommon as I understand it. At least this way they can age gracefully.
I have since covered my saggy nets with SOR tuff duck seat covers.
This really has to be one of the greatest and easiest fixes in the world. I have four saggy nets between my 80 and my wife's Hundy. Yep she has saggy nets too.
I did something similar but didnt cut the cord and tucked it thru off on one side.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
Did a repair on mine way back but cannot remember exactly how I bloody did it! IIRC I prised away at one of the plastic uprights and teased the top elastic out, pulled it tight, did a knot and tucked it behind the plastic bar and pushed it back in place?
Not with car ATM so will try to remember to check next week.
Regards
Dave
Not with car ATM so will try to remember to check next week.
Regards
Dave
Has anyone ever replaced these with something better? I would like to use them for holding maps and gazetteers or other flat tems, but they are so flimsy they are kind useless. Besides, the sides on my nets blew out and fixing them just seems pointless. It seems like using the plastic bracket that hold the net in could be used to hold something better and more sturdy.
Also, how do you access the back of the panel they are attached to? Is it is simple as just pulling the two screws or body clips that are are the tops of the panel on the cloth seats?
I was thinking I could use some heavy duty webbing like they use in back braces(I can get 6" wide pieces on eBay) and then sewing a piece of neoprene or something stretchy to the top and then using the holes that the brackets attach with to make something more functional.
Any ideas?
Also, how do you access the back of the panel they are attached to? Is it is simple as just pulling the two screws or body clips that are are the tops of the panel on the cloth seats?
I was thinking I could use some heavy duty webbing like they use in back braces(I can get 6" wide pieces on eBay) and then sewing a piece of neoprene or something stretchy to the top and then using the holes that the brackets attach with to make something more functional.
Any ideas?
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Yep, shoe lace locks. Easy, infinitely adjustable. Mine are holding up well
I have had the same problem with holding maps and am sure most people have too. It seems to me that the nets aren't tall enough (pocket isn't deep enough) to hold atlases and gazetteers. If it came up higher it would work better - otherwise the map just flops out. Maybe the plastic side pieces could be replaced with something taller to make a deeper pocket.
Here are a couple of links to back seat access.
Repairing the Elastic Band in the Behind-The-Seat Storage Net
Like many others, the elastic band in the seat storage unit on both my driver and passenger side seats were stretched out and an eyesore. Rather than using one of the lace locks that are mentioned in other threads, I wanted to retain the factory look, so we t about repairing the bands with a...
forum.ih8mud.com
Saggy Seat Back Nets
forum.ih8mud.com
Thanks @cahill , for the links to other threads on this subject. I browsed both in addition to this thread to find as much as I could about repairing the net seat pockets. I have the fabric seats and just to add some more info to help those attempting to fix their sagging pockets, I'll share some pics and things that worked for me.
To remove my '94 seat back covers, it was slightly different. The 2 screws are near the top of the seat back cover. They have little covers that you pry off and they have keeper straps so you don't lose them. Loosen the screws and the top of seat back cover will tilt back away from seat. Pull up on seat back cover and seat back cover will be released from seat so you have access to the "toothy washers" mentioned in this thread.
I was able to remove one washer, per seat, by prying it up & cutting through one edge with wire cutters and pulling it off the post with needle nose pliers. The washer will get slightly mangled, but you can flatten it out and reuse it. The post and particle board seat back will be scratched up, but so what - they're covered up where they can't be seen. I removed the top outside washer to free the end of the OEM stretched elastic band.
Replace with the elastic cord of your choice. Be sure to tie a knot and heat end of cord to prevent fraying. Tuck knot into knot pocket and push plastic post back into seat back cover and re-install toothy washer. I found that a 10mm nut driver was helpful to push toothy washer back on post. I cut the knot off the free end of original elastic band so I could feed it through the shoelace lock. Now feed the free end of the added elastic band through shoelace lock, after weaving it through the top of pocket net.
Tighten up to your satisfaction, cut lengths to your taste, heat ends to prevent fraying and re-install seat back cover and you're through.
Screw cap covers shown above as opened, to help identify as correct back cover screws. Also, reference thread mentioned above, or this thread, will show more details, if needed. I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was to fix these seat pockets.
Edit: For clarification, OEM elastic cord is re-used for 1/2 of length. IMHO, it was not long enough to cut in 1/2 in the middle and add shoelace lock. So I decided to free one end and add some new elastic cord for 1/2 of length. The combination of elastic cords gave plenty of length. I was able to cut several inches off after running through shoelace lock.
To remove my '94 seat back covers, it was slightly different. The 2 screws are near the top of the seat back cover. They have little covers that you pry off and they have keeper straps so you don't lose them. Loosen the screws and the top of seat back cover will tilt back away from seat. Pull up on seat back cover and seat back cover will be released from seat so you have access to the "toothy washers" mentioned in this thread.
I was able to remove one washer, per seat, by prying it up & cutting through one edge with wire cutters and pulling it off the post with needle nose pliers. The washer will get slightly mangled, but you can flatten it out and reuse it. The post and particle board seat back will be scratched up, but so what - they're covered up where they can't be seen. I removed the top outside washer to free the end of the OEM stretched elastic band.
Replace with the elastic cord of your choice. Be sure to tie a knot and heat end of cord to prevent fraying. Tuck knot into knot pocket and push plastic post back into seat back cover and re-install toothy washer. I found that a 10mm nut driver was helpful to push toothy washer back on post. I cut the knot off the free end of original elastic band so I could feed it through the shoelace lock. Now feed the free end of the added elastic band through shoelace lock, after weaving it through the top of pocket net.
Tighten up to your satisfaction, cut lengths to your taste, heat ends to prevent fraying and re-install seat back cover and you're through.
Screw cap covers shown above as opened, to help identify as correct back cover screws. Also, reference thread mentioned above, or this thread, will show more details, if needed. I was pleasantly surprised how easy it was to fix these seat pockets.
Edit: For clarification, OEM elastic cord is re-used for 1/2 of length. IMHO, it was not long enough to cut in 1/2 in the middle and add shoelace lock. So I decided to free one end and add some new elastic cord for 1/2 of length. The combination of elastic cords gave plenty of length. I was able to cut several inches off after running through shoelace lock.
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You have to remove the seat back (as explained in my above post) and remove old cord and replace with new. The hardest part is removing the “toothy” retaining devices that hold the net holder posts through the seat backs. I only replaced one side by re-using old cord on one side of the “shoelace lock”. That allowed me to only remove one net holder.
