My kid wanted a Jeep, she's getting a 77 FJ40 LS Swap instead

[JKIII FJ40]

Do you mean the starter solenoid? At least, your last pic looks like the connector plug for the starter solenoid.
Looks like you have a +2010 (I think) starter which uses that connector, you could pick up one of those from somewhere like this, or replace your starter with an earlier one which use a regular M5 ring terminal. You may or may not need to add a relay. It’s about 50/50 with LC wiring carrying enough voltage to get GM starters to crank. Interestingly we have a lot more issues with 60 series then 40 series with this on the conversions my shop has done

Starter Connector Kit (1)

This connector kit includes the following genuine Original Equipment (OE) components: (1 Piece) Aptiv/Delphi Starter Connector (1 Piece) Aptiv/Delphi Metri-Pack 280 Terminal Position Assurance TPA Secondary Lock (1 Piece) Aptiv/Delphi Metri-Pack 280 Terminals for 14-12 AWG TXL Wire (1 Piece)...

lswiring.com

yep, its a good thing you can translate gibberish.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

On the next installment of "how to underestimate how long it takes to build a FJ40", I spent the evening first on the wiring harness. I spend a little time each night working on mapping out where everything is supposed to be and what needs to be repaired. Progress status, on going.....and will be for some time. I also made up the brake lines from the master to the front junction. I had the old rusted lines and used them as a template, basically I made a bend and then zip tied it and went from one end to the other. Unfortunately I still ended up re-bending the lines around the firewall. Started off nice and neat, now there are small anomality's from the re-bending. Its now ready for the brake master, and then I can make the final bends.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

My new front bib came in, thanks BTB for filling the order so quickly. I dropped it off to paint this evening. Next on this evenings work is the transfer case shifter. I cut and then extended it with a section of the steering shaft I trimmed down. I need to bend it a little to the right and throw some paint on it. I installed the brake master, I still need to bleed the master and finalize the line bending. I also changed the PCM/TCM orientation and lastly I installed the sun visors.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

I installed the transmission tunnel and noticed that everything lined up with one exception, the bottom heater welded nuts are covered up. I need to pull the tunnel and make a small trim so I can mount the heater. I am happy to report that the transfer case shifter works great and is aligned perfectly after I gave it some attention and rebent it to work.

 

[Jdc1]

I installed the transmission tunnel and noticed that everything lined up with one exception, the bottom heater welded nuts are covered up. I need to pull the tunnel and make a small trim so I can mount the heater. I am happy to report that the transfer case shifter works great and is aligned perfectly after I gave it some attention and rebent it to work.

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raptor?

 

[JKIII FJ40]

raptor?

Yes, on both sides. My 74 has it on the inside and I like. The topnault tubs are ok, in hindsight I should of either gone with a terra tough tub or Aqualu. I was drawn to the steel tub as I can easily repair it vs fibreglass or aluminum.

 

[Jdc1]

Yes, on both sides. My 74 has it on the inside and I like. The topnault tubs are ok, in hindsight I should have either gone with a terra tough tub or Aqualu. I was drawn to the steel tub as I can easily repair it vs fibreglass or aluminum.

It looks really nice- The Aqualu is definitely awesome but steel is easier to work with.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Exactly (referencing steel tubs), where there's a hammer and a welder there's a way. I needed to persuade the tunnel a little bit this evening as the shifter was touching a little, after a few whack's it bent the way I needed it too.
Thanks for the compliment, its a partial quality budget build. At least I like to tell my wife its a budget build. Unfortunately the salt up here eats everything and I find more and more unusable.

 

[Jdc1]

Exactly (referencing steel tubs), where there's a hammer and a welder there's a way. I needed to persuade the tunnel a little bit this evening as the shifter was touching a little, after a few whack's it bent the way I needed it too.
Thanks for the compliment, its a partial quality budget build. At least I like to tell my wife its a budget build. Unfortunately the salt up here eats everything and I find more and more unusable.

Salt is no joke. Our parts are getting harder na harder to find in useable condition.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

The hood is prepped and ready to get placed on, I will have to wait until the vehicle recipient (AKA Daughter/Demon seed #1) is home to help. I am just gonna place it on top tonight and during the week snug it down and then flip up. It will be out of the way and less likely to get damaged. I also installed the rear turn signals, I changed out the plugs and installed the green plugs from Coolerman. I have tried several times to unpin the connectors without luck. I use my hand grinder and cut away the plastic to remove the wires and pins, it is a "way".
I had to replace the oil pressure sensor as the one in the motor was the wrong size for the BP products harness. I also installed the kick vents, I had to do some trimming as the topnault tub opening was less that the kick vent for the hinge. I also made some pins as well out of round stock.
I have the new fuel tank out on the floor and during the week I will get that ready to cut and then weld in the fuel ring.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Tank prep and mock up. I previously tested this on an older tank, for some reason the older tank seemed taller and I previously pulled it as there was some rust issues so off to the scrap pile. The GM stile pump will fit perfectly between the seat rails and allow the fuel lines to exit under the rail towards the center. The tank is getting welded, hopefully I can finalize the install later this week.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

I tore down the heater and started painting, I still need to figure out whether I need to make 4 new holes or some how lower the lip of the tunnel so everything fits. The hood is on and helps with mocking up the air intake, and that will help on how I will route the upper radiator hose. I had to widen the bottom two holes for the 4x emblem but now am puzzled why the Topnault tub has three holes instead of two for the Toyota emblem. Luckily the emblem will cover the holes, still sucks that I need to drill two new holes and have three new future rust holes.

 

[JKIII FJ40]

Fab work on the horizon, I need to either move the heater up 3/4 - 1" or somehow reshape the tunnel and have it drop 3/4 - 1", add another one to the "I should've caught when mocking things up" list. I also noticed that the tub doesn't have any provision for the fuse panel, I can make up some mounting tabs so the panel is in the right place.
Last on the scratch your head and thing agenda is the throttle pedal, basically it wags right and I need it to go to the left. This may be a cut and reweld, a heat and bend, or a spend many hours on the internet for a solution. I have been searching and there are not many LS installs that used DBW, the ones I found didn't cover the throttle though.

 

[cruisermatt]

John, I am planning on making a bracket for that, was planning probably a +year out though - Do you want us to fast track it? Have pedal and +74 tub here for mockup.

I also make a nice replacement pedal face that uses the FJ60/70/80 rubber pad so for a more original look

Stock-Look Replacement Pedal Face for GM DBW

Designed to work with the "C10" and Corvette pedal assemblies. Includes new OEM Toyota pedal pad. Please select your pedal option in the drop-down.

cruisermatts.com

 

[JKIII FJ40]

John, I am planning on making a bracket for that, was planning probably a +year out though - Do you want us to fast track it? Have pedal and +74 tub here for mockup.

I also make a nice replacement pedal face that uses the FJ60/70/80 rubber pad so for a more original look

Stock-Look Replacement Pedal Face for GM DBW

Designed to work with the "C10" and Corvette pedal assemblies. Includes new OEM Toyota pedal pad. Please select your pedal option in the drop-down.

cruisermatts.com

Matt, thanks for the offer. No need to "fast track" the design and build, I still have some time so I am gonna see if there is another pedal option out there. I still need to solve another couple of tub nuances before I get to the pedal.

 

[clrussell]

Tank prep and mock up. I previously tested this on an older tank, for some reason the older tank seemed taller and I previously pulled it as there was some rust issues so off to the scrap pile. The GM stile pump will fit perfectly between the seat rails and allow the fuel lines to exit under the rail towards the center. The tank is getting welded, hopefully I can finalize the install later this week.

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Where did you source the weld in ring?

Just a standard pump for the engine application?

 

[peesalot]

Curious what the cost for the parts to put gm pump in stock tank ended up adding to ?
FWIW, when/if you flex that 40 the bib will want to torque, keep an eye on it to see if the alum edges where fenders bolt isnt distorting or the mount bottom middle.

 

[clrussell]

Curious what the cost for the parts to put gm pump in stock tank ended up adding to ?
FWIW, when/if you flex that 40 the bib will want to torque, keep an eye on it to see if the alum edges where fenders bolt isnt distorting or the mount bottom middle.

I’m looking at this not to change fuel directions and not run an aux tank yet.

Weld in ring is $100 roughly. Plus factory GM sending unit assembly $200

OEM reliability and can get a pump at basically any parts store

 

[JKIII FJ40]

I’ll send all of the info tonight, yes that’s why I went this route

 

[peesalot]

I am looking to replace frame rail pump and need a smaller aux tank so will probably just use a small 7 psi elec pump to transfer aux to main, that in tank gm pump is rated to run a 6.0 ls ?