My Jan 81 FJ40 Frame Off Resto Mod

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lol, stick with it buddy, I always found myself drifitng off onto something else that was easier when something difficult was kicking my butt but then again ADHD has always been like that for me. I am contemplating on pulling all my wiring one day and lay it out and make all new again. I have a ToDo list for the cruiser that is still so very long and never seems to get accomplished but then again I want to keep adding the latest stuff onto it or change colors, or this or that. ANother tidbit is add small rubber or clear plastic washers to every nut and bolt on outside painted surfaces. I did not and even with SS screws and bolts rust has stained my paint somehow and on a white paint job it shows moreso? cheap SS I guess but that was a lesson learned for me.

R
 
Awl_TEQ said:
I'm here too!

I have nothing to offer on the manifold issue. On the overwhelming-ness of the task I can only advise taking baby steps. One small task at a time will get you there. Pick whatever seems it should happen first and "just do it" like Nike.
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Thanks for the words of encouragement. Funny thing is I was reading your thread on your 81 BJ 42 last night.

Excellent work!
 
i follow this proyect step by step, so i can see what i have to do in my resto! is a clean and beutiful rig resto proyect, congratulations!!:clap:
 
Roberto said:
lol, stick with it buddy, I always found myself drifitng off onto something else that was easier when something difficult was kicking my butt but then again ADHD has always been like that for me. I am contemplating on pulling all my wiring one day and lay it out and make all new again. I have a ToDo list for the cruiser that is still so very long and never seems to get accomplished but then again I want to keep adding the latest stuff onto it or change colors, or this or that. ANother tidbit is add small rubber or clear plastic washers to every nut and bolt on outside painted surfaces. I did not and even with SS screws and bolts rust has stained my paint somehow and on a white paint job it shows moreso? cheap SS I guess but that was a lesson learned for me.

R
Click to expand...

Roberto

I sourced some M6, M8 and M10 nylon washers on eBay and utilizing as much as possible. Thanks for the tip!
 
guacharin said:
i follow this proyect step by step, so i can see what i have to do in my resto! is a clean and beutiful rig resto proyect, congratulations!!:clap:
Click to expand...

Gracias Amigo! It's amazing the reach of IH8MUD!
 
So can I test heat riser flap with a torch?
image-2427803078.jpg
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I'm going to bolt the intake and exhaust manifolds to the head loosely before tightening the two together as I read here in another thread (sorry no link).

I also read about Counter Boring the bolt flanges and using the remflex type gaskets, which I haven't sourced yet. Remflex kit comes with 6 gaskets although it doesn't really say what 6 gaskets come in the kit.

Of course this is my ADHD kicking in as I have plenty of other areas to concentrate on as well.

Stay tuned...
 
KY Longhunter said:
How's your project?

I promise I will get some updates with pics for you boys soon.
Click to expand...

It's been on the backburner all summer due to life and :princess: projects.
Just got hold of a second garage nearby so I can make some room. Last 2 weeks I have been sorting out stuff to move and plan to continue the project now.
 
Yes, the heat riser bi-metallic can be tested with a torch or a heatgun. Be careful not to damage it with a torch.

Yes, on the manifolds, it is possible that they will bolt back together and draw up against the head and be flat & true. You have to put them together anyway. You might get lucky and not need to mill them.

Is the engine in the chassis? If so, then getting to all the mani bolts is a bit awkward, but it is do-able with a good selection of wobble extensions, u-jts, etc. Once it's all on & tight, then go around with a feeler blade and see where the largest gaps are between head face and manifolds. If they are less than .015" then IMHO it will be fine.

Use the Felpro MS22813 gasket set. It has the 2 new intermanifold gaskets you need, and a graphite manifold gasket with wide fire rings.
 
FJ40Jim said:
Yes, the heat riser bi-metallic can be tested with a torch or a heatgun. Be careful not to damage it with a torch.

Yes, on the manifolds, it is possible that they will bolt back together and draw up against the head and be flat & true. You have to put them together anyway. You might get lucky and not need to mill them.

Is the engine in the chassis? If so, then getting to all the mani bolts is a bit awkward, but it is do-able with a good selection of wobble extensions, u-jts, etc. Once it's all on & tight, then go around with a feeler blade and see where the largest gaps are between head face and manifolds. If they are less than .015" then IMHO it will be fine.

Use the Felpro MS22813 gasket set. It has the 2 new intermanifold gaskets you need, and a graphite manifold gasket with wide fire rings.
Click to expand...

Jim...thanks for the advice and part #

$24 on Amazon.com!
 
these are the gaskets i've got...regular mail would be cheap....and would get to you in 3 days
MVC-009F.JPG
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MVC-011F.JPG
 
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