What an amazing truck and what a great, detailed build. How's your upgraded heater core working out this winter?
Builds My GCC Spec 1HD-FTE Converted FZJ100 (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter gnarlynick2072
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #142
Thanks!! I’m trying to stay as detailed as I can with this thing.
The upgraded heater core was probably the best mod I’ve done so far! The 1FZ pumps out a lot of heat very quickly and I get heat almost immediately. 100% worth doing the mod.
- Thread starter
- #143
HF1A rebuild complete and installed. Took some muscling to get it bolted to the gearbox by myself.
Road tested very well. No noise. I actually noticed that the rebuild eliminated a bearing/gear whine at 80 km/hr so I’m happy I did it.
Shifts from H2 to H4 and HLO very nicely now as it should.
Road tested very well. No noise. I actually noticed that the rebuild eliminated a bearing/gear whine at 80 km/hr so I’m happy I did it.
Shifts from H2 to H4 and HLO very nicely now as it should.
- Thread starter
- #144
Just started wiring my dual battery install yesterday so I thought I'd post my progress.
Decided to model it similar to the factory HDJ100 dual battery wiring, except in this case it's two isolated batteries.
I decided on the ACR 7610 relay for isolated charging since it was the best bang for the buck and also seems to be the most reliable. I also tried to use as many factory components as possible. So the 2 awg positive leads that go to and from the ACR will use the factory 140amp fuse on the stock fuse holder and I bought a second fuse holder for my spare battery. I also ran my wiring in a loom over the fan shroud just like the factory diesel trucks. I still need to find mounting clamps for the loom which will be bolted onto the spare nuts on the radiator.
You can see where I bolted my positive and negative leads on the main battery. The positive on the spare slot side of the fuse holder which currently does not have a fuse bolted in yet.
The other end of the positive wire runs into the ACR 7610 and the negative goes directly to the negative terminal on the spare battery. I will run another positive wire from the other side of the ACR to the "ALT 140A" slot on the fuse holder.
I think it'll work out pretty nicely actually. More to come when I make a bit more progress!
Decided to model it similar to the factory HDJ100 dual battery wiring, except in this case it's two isolated batteries.
I decided on the ACR 7610 relay for isolated charging since it was the best bang for the buck and also seems to be the most reliable. I also tried to use as many factory components as possible. So the 2 awg positive leads that go to and from the ACR will use the factory 140amp fuse on the stock fuse holder and I bought a second fuse holder for my spare battery. I also ran my wiring in a loom over the fan shroud just like the factory diesel trucks. I still need to find mounting clamps for the loom which will be bolted onto the spare nuts on the radiator.
You can see where I bolted my positive and negative leads on the main battery. The positive on the spare slot side of the fuse holder which currently does not have a fuse bolted in yet.
The other end of the positive wire runs into the ACR 7610 and the negative goes directly to the negative terminal on the spare battery. I will run another positive wire from the other side of the ACR to the "ALT 140A" slot on the fuse holder.
I think it'll work out pretty nicely actually. More to come when I make a bit more progress!
- Thread starter
- #145
Took a break from the dual battery work and upgraded my starter. I was having very difficult cold starts and discovered my GCC spec starter is the 1.4kW version. So I replaced with a Denso 2.0kW starter from Rockauto. Price was right. And look at the size difference!
Install took all of 20 minutes from start to finish. No problem. Also the sound of the motor cranking is much higher pitched with the more powerful starter. Interesting.
Install took all of 20 minutes from start to finish. No problem. Also the sound of the motor cranking is much higher pitched with the more powerful starter. Interesting.
- Thread starter
- #146
Just started a big project - clutch overhaul. I noticed a lot of noise coming from the bell housing and also have quite the rear main seal leak so I figured it was time to do this before my trip to Moab in May.
Here is the list of parts I’ll be changing on this project:
Clutch cover and disc
Rear main seal
H151 input seal
Throw out bearing
Pilot bearing
Slave cylinder
Master cylinder
Trans mount and motor mounts
Got the gearbox removed tonight! Process wasn’t bad at all. Most difficult part is separating the bell housing from the block. I figured out the trick eventually after much thinking underneath the vehicle.
As expected, the throw out bearing is BEYOND TOAST. Definitely the source of the noise coming from underneath the truck.
Clutch looked ok and the disc actually has lots of material left! Much more work to be done later this week and into the weekend!
Here is the list of parts I’ll be changing on this project:
Clutch cover and disc
Rear main seal
H151 input seal
Throw out bearing
Pilot bearing
Slave cylinder
Master cylinder
Trans mount and motor mounts
Got the gearbox removed tonight! Process wasn’t bad at all. Most difficult part is separating the bell housing from the block. I figured out the trick eventually after much thinking underneath the vehicle.
As expected, the throw out bearing is BEYOND TOAST. Definitely the source of the noise coming from underneath the truck.
Clutch looked ok and the disc actually has lots of material left! Much more work to be done later this week and into the weekend!
- Thread starter
- #147
1FZ-FE pilot bearing removal
So I saw a really cool trick on the interwebs I wanted to try. It’s ridiculous but it worked! Beats the hell out of using pullers.
Here was the state of my pilot bearing and very leaky main seal. Yikes!
To remove my pilot bearing I needed the following tools. A BFH, a bolt wrapped in electrical tape and white bread from the grocery store. Two slices will do.
I stuffed the inside void of the bearing with bread
And proceeded to hammer the living s*** out of the bread.
And sure enough, it came out! It was unbelievably easy. Took all of 5 minutes to remove. Non compressible physics is incredible.
This trick is also done using multi purpose grease which I DO NOT RECOMMEND on land cruisers. I’ve done this before and grease will just blow through the bearing seal and you’ll lose the ability to use hydraulics to remove the bearing. Bread has enough mass that is won’t creep into the bearing and blow the seal out the other end.
So I saw a really cool trick on the interwebs I wanted to try. It’s ridiculous but it worked! Beats the hell out of using pullers.
Here was the state of my pilot bearing and very leaky main seal. Yikes!
To remove my pilot bearing I needed the following tools. A BFH, a bolt wrapped in electrical tape and white bread from the grocery store. Two slices will do.
I stuffed the inside void of the bearing with bread
And proceeded to hammer the living s*** out of the bread.
And sure enough, it came out! It was unbelievably easy. Took all of 5 minutes to remove. Non compressible physics is incredible.
This trick is also done using multi purpose grease which I DO NOT RECOMMEND on land cruisers. I’ve done this before and grease will just blow through the bearing seal and you’ll lose the ability to use hydraulics to remove the bearing. Bread has enough mass that is won’t creep into the bearing and blow the seal out the other end.
Great attention to detail I was suprised that you even got the right 4500 emblem as models that came after 2000 had a golden emblem instead of the silver one also I noticed that you are missing the hub caps so I wanted to give you the part number for that
It should have 4 of those but since you installed a manual hub up front you should see if these will fit there
These came on cruisers that had factory installed front lockers but these were extreamly rare and most of them had the diesel engine
It should have 4 of those but since you installed a manual hub up front you should see if these will fit there
These came on cruisers that had factory installed front lockers but these were extreamly rare and most of them had the diesel engine
- Thread starter
- #150
Thanks! I’ve been making sure to stay true to that year for the decal sets. I got all the diagrams for my specific truck so it’s made it easy to stay true to factory configuration
And thanks for these! I think the caps that go on my steel wheels are slightly different as I have different steels from the pictures you attached. Maybe at some point I’ll put caps on
Also, front lockers came as an option on diesels since they are all solid front axle 105 series. There were no diesel IFS 100 series sold as an option in Saudi I believe.
- Thread starter
- #151
Replaced H151F input seal. But of a pain but less work than pulling the gearbox again!
Cleaned up the front cover and installed new seal and had the FSM handy for all the torque/FIPG specs.
Cleaned up the front of the casing and installed with Toyota 1281 FIPG and Loctite 242 on the bolts.
I also got my flywheel ground at a clutch shop in town and holy s*** they did an AMAZING job! The flywheel looks literally brand new. I wish I took a before picture. Wow!
It’s grounded to the Toyota 0.5mm step spec.
And lastly cleaned up the back of the motor and installed new main seal and pilot bearing. Pressing the new seal in was a bit of a pain so there must be a trick to it!
Cleaned up the front cover and installed new seal and had the FSM handy for all the torque/FIPG specs.
Cleaned up the front of the casing and installed with Toyota 1281 FIPG and Loctite 242 on the bolts.
I also got my flywheel ground at a clutch shop in town and holy s*** they did an AMAZING job! The flywheel looks literally brand new. I wish I took a before picture. Wow!
It’s grounded to the Toyota 0.5mm step spec.
And lastly cleaned up the back of the motor and installed new main seal and pilot bearing. Pressing the new seal in was a bit of a pain so there must be a trick to it!
Yeah jaust noticed the different steel wheel I think that's for 2003+ models as for solid front axles there were acually some gasoline engines that had them from factory but those are extramly rare and most of them were a "g" package which was a bare bones landcruiser the thing didn't even have airbagsThanks! I’ve been making sure to stay true to that year for the decal sets. I got all the diagrams for my specific truck so it’s made it easy to stay true to factory configuration
And thanks for these! I think the caps that go on my steel wheels are slightly different as I have different steels from the pictures you attached. Maybe at some point I’ll put caps on
Also, front lockers came as an option on diesels since they are all solid front axle 105 series. There were no diesel IFS 100 series sold as an option in Saudi I believe.
- Thread starter
- #153
Motor Mounts
So I figured, while I have the gearbox removed it would be a perfect time to replace my motor mounts.
I borrowed an engine hoist from my buddy and got it all set up with rated climbing rope my roommate put together.
Removal was quite easy. Unbolted fan, intake upper section and motor mounts and the engine lifted right up.
I could not believe the condition of the mounts when I removed them. WOW!! I’m so happy I decided to go this route. I honeslty had no indication or symptoms that they could be bad.
One completely separated and the other was close behind. I’m excited to see the differences they make!
Installation of new mounts was a gigantic pain in the ass. Took almost 2 hours to put them in and wiggle the motor back into place.
So I figured, while I have the gearbox removed it would be a perfect time to replace my motor mounts.
I borrowed an engine hoist from my buddy and got it all set up with rated climbing rope my roommate put together.
Removal was quite easy. Unbolted fan, intake upper section and motor mounts and the engine lifted right up.
I could not believe the condition of the mounts when I removed them. WOW!! I’m so happy I decided to go this route. I honeslty had no indication or symptoms that they could be bad.
One completely separated and the other was close behind. I’m excited to see the differences they make!
Installation of new mounts was a gigantic pain in the ass. Took almost 2 hours to put them in and wiggle the motor back into place.
- Thread starter
- #154
Clutch
Installed the flywheel and clutch. The most difficult part was figuring out the proper torque for the flywheel bolts. As per FSM it says 14 ft lbs plus 90 degrees rotation. This means these are yield bolts and I didn't buy new bolts in my last order. Luckily the FSM has a minimum thickness spec. Turns out my bolts are well within spec and good to be reused!
FSM States the following:
Standard Outside Diameter 10.3 - 10.5 mm
Minimum Outside Diameter 9.5 mm
All of mine were around 10.2 to 10.3 mm.
Installing the bolts was a pain. At first I put them in dry and COULD NOT get them past 45 degrees rotation. Then I realized the FSM says to apply light amount of engine oil to the threads and head, and sure enough I got them to 90 degrees!
I cleaned up the surface with brake clean and then put the clutch disc on. I have an OEM clutch alignment tool I used from my 5 speed conversion on my old HDJ81. It's paid for itself many times over!
Then the cover is bolted on. This takes some time as you have to stagger torquing. Eventually all the bolts went in at 29 ft lbs.
And lastly got the H151F setup for mating to the engine. New fork pivot and throw out bearing. I hope this new bearing will make the shifts feel better.
Installed the flywheel and clutch. The most difficult part was figuring out the proper torque for the flywheel bolts. As per FSM it says 14 ft lbs plus 90 degrees rotation. This means these are yield bolts and I didn't buy new bolts in my last order. Luckily the FSM has a minimum thickness spec. Turns out my bolts are well within spec and good to be reused!
FSM States the following:
Standard Outside Diameter 10.3 - 10.5 mm
Minimum Outside Diameter 9.5 mm
All of mine were around 10.2 to 10.3 mm.
Installing the bolts was a pain. At first I put them in dry and COULD NOT get them past 45 degrees rotation. Then I realized the FSM says to apply light amount of engine oil to the threads and head, and sure enough I got them to 90 degrees!
I cleaned up the surface with brake clean and then put the clutch disc on. I have an OEM clutch alignment tool I used from my 5 speed conversion on my old HDJ81. It's paid for itself many times over!
Then the cover is bolted on. This takes some time as you have to stagger torquing. Eventually all the bolts went in at 29 ft lbs.
And lastly got the H151F setup for mating to the engine. New fork pivot and throw out bearing. I hope this new bearing will make the shifts feel better.
TRDdrew
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what an awesome basline/resto/build, this is so cool keep up the good work. I will continue to follow for sure
- Thread starter
- #156
Gearbox is in and truck is running! Very happy with the clutch, all runs well. However I'm considering running Redline 75W90 gear oil to improve shifting a little bit...
Also got my front and rear driveshafts balanced before install.
I also started my Blue Sea fuse block and accessory install. Fabbed up a bracket and test fitted. Looks good and clears the hood shock strut. Just need to paint and wire up the fuse block. I utilized existing capture nuts in the fender so I didn't need to drill holes or any of that nonsense.
And my favourite update this week - ARB Bumper is on and good to go! Was not easy to install alone but I managed to use my jack to assist. Actually worked quite well and achieved very close to 15mm clearance all around.
Getting close to ready for my trip to Moab in May!
Also got my front and rear driveshafts balanced before install.
I also started my Blue Sea fuse block and accessory install. Fabbed up a bracket and test fitted. Looks good and clears the hood shock strut. Just need to paint and wire up the fuse block. I utilized existing capture nuts in the fender so I didn't need to drill holes or any of that nonsense.
And my favourite update this week - ARB Bumper is on and good to go! Was not easy to install alone but I managed to use my jack to assist. Actually worked quite well and achieved very close to 15mm clearance all around.
Getting close to ready for my trip to Moab in May!
Might try Redline MT-90 for the tranny if it’s spec’d for 75W-90 GL-4. I’ve had excellent results with it. The trannys shift very smooth.
Looks great with the ARB bumper, Proper Qatari spec
