Great work. I see that AVM free wheeling hubs aren't that well regarded on the Aussie forums
Builds My GCC Spec 1HD-FTE Converted FZJ100 (21 Viewers)
- Thread starter gnarlynick2072
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- Thread starter
- #102
Yeah that's pretty much how I'm sitting with it. The interior might be a bear to disassemble. I'm also grappling with the fact that if there is a failure then I'm looking at motor overheating which is arguably more expensive than going with an OEM heater core. Lol
Yup I've seen that too. I think it's more so for hardcore wheeling guys that make them prone to failure. Also, Aisin hubs aren't really an option on this truck yet (@cruiseroutfit ) unless I buy the proper CVs which is an $800 adder. Lol
- Thread starter
- #104
You can always do a retrofit! I did one on my 80!
So I'm chasing my vibration issue which starts at 80 km/hr. I removed the rear driveshaft to inspect u joints. Not really any play that I can tell. I might see if a driveline shop will check balance but not actually balance the thing. I like to keep with factory balancing if I can help it or maybe the yoke is just 180 degrees out. This drive shaft also doesn't have a weight on the yoke end. Not sure if this is normal from factory.
I did find out that these u joints and flanges are different from the North American model. I believe they are bigger?
Also started ripping apart the interior.
This truck had an aftermarket radio installed and holy crap. I'm not sure what this guy was doing. They chopped the bracket in half and then made their own brackets and proceeded to tape them to the radio. Mother of god.
- Thread starter
- #105
I found out why the u joints are different. The 100 series has different sized rear drive shafts between transfer cases. All factory part time models come with larger rear drive shafts with bigger u joints. Who knew.
Please let us know if you find the source of the vibration, My part time 100 has the same vibration and it's driving me nuts!
- Thread starter
- #107
Does yours start at around 80 km/hr? It's super annoying. I'm going to start by changing u joints in the rear drive shaft (i've already removed the front drive shaft to isolate) then move to tires. You can check your drive shaft by pushing up from the ground at the yoke end (connection of the drive shaft at the transfer case) and see if it clunks at the splines. Mine did and just needed grease but still vibrates a bit. Then rotate it and see if there's rotational play at the joints.
Got both my cruisers parked together for the first time since I had a Tacoma in my garage this weekend!
Did a pretty major re-seal on a Tacoma this weekend. Was an interesting break from wrenching on the 100.
My vibration starts at 80Kph, I'm pretty sure it's coming from U-Joint closest to the rear diff.Does yours start at around 80 km/hr? It's super annoying. I'm going to start by changing u joints in the rear drive shaft (i've already removed the front drive shaft to isolate) then move to tires. You can check your drive shaft by pushing up from the ground at the yoke end (connection of the drive shaft at the transfer case) and see if it clunks at the splines. Mine did and just needed grease but still vibrates a bit. Then rotate it and see if there's rotational play at the joints.
Got both my cruisers parked together for the first time since I had a Tacoma in my garage this weekend!
View attachment 1689948
Did a pretty major re-seal on a Tacoma this weekend. Was an interesting break from wrenching on the 100.
View attachment 1689952
A good way to tell is to sit in the third-row seats
- Thread starter
- #109
Are you going to try changing them out??
Here's the part # for the u-joints on a factory part time rear drive shaft 04371-60030
- Thread starter
- #110
Heater Core Project
So when I was working on the motor I managed to squish one of the heater core tubes when removing the heater hoses. I did some digging into heater cores and turns out that Middle East trucks have a different spec heater than colder markets. Blessing in disguise. Without knowing this I would have froze in the truck next winter.
Unfortunately you cannot just swap a Canadian spec heater core into a Middle East housing as it is physically different in size. So I managed to find a wrecker that had a Canadian spec 99 LX470. I snapped up the housing and heater core which all seemed to be in pretty good knick.
Then came time to take apart the interior. Not as bad as i expected! Just time consuming!
Here are the heater cores side by side for reference. Obviously Canadian spec on left, Middle East on right. Significant difference!
And here are the housings. I was very excited that Mr. T kept everything else on the housings the same so you can simply pull one out and install the other. Direct swap!
One more little change I made was at the plastic support at the front. Both broke when removing the hoses (the wrecker broke there's as well) so I modified the support. I took the snap clips from the Middle East housing and squished them to a smaller size. I dremmeled little divots in the plastic so that they would stay put and hold on both ends. It turned out really well. The plastic is solid now.
It's a bit of a silly design, it seems clear that it would break with just that one screw holding it down.
So when I was working on the motor I managed to squish one of the heater core tubes when removing the heater hoses. I did some digging into heater cores and turns out that Middle East trucks have a different spec heater than colder markets. Blessing in disguise. Without knowing this I would have froze in the truck next winter.
Unfortunately you cannot just swap a Canadian spec heater core into a Middle East housing as it is physically different in size. So I managed to find a wrecker that had a Canadian spec 99 LX470. I snapped up the housing and heater core which all seemed to be in pretty good knick.
Then came time to take apart the interior. Not as bad as i expected! Just time consuming!
Here are the heater cores side by side for reference. Obviously Canadian spec on left, Middle East on right. Significant difference!
And here are the housings. I was very excited that Mr. T kept everything else on the housings the same so you can simply pull one out and install the other. Direct swap!
One more little change I made was at the plastic support at the front. Both broke when removing the hoses (the wrecker broke there's as well) so I modified the support. I took the snap clips from the Middle East housing and squished them to a smaller size. I dremmeled little divots in the plastic so that they would stay put and hold on both ends. It turned out really well. The plastic is solid now.
It's a bit of a silly design, it seems clear that it would break with just that one screw holding it down.
- Thread starter
- #111
Interior all back together again. Took several nights after work to finish. Cleaned up a lot of the dust and it's looking pretty good! I currently have the radio out of it and the climate control dash as it needs to be rebuilt.
Its nice not having rear heat for the soul purpose that there's less potential failure points on the cooling system. No tees to worry about, hoses go straight to the fire wall.
Its nice not having rear heat for the soul purpose that there's less potential failure points on the cooling system. No tees to worry about, hoses go straight to the fire wall.
- Thread starter
- #112
Well look what showed up today!
This particular quarter panel was discontinued by Toyota last year but I managed to get one of the last ones. Phew! It's rare as it has the threaded anchor points for the pillar handles. Quite excited, the body damage is going to get fixed soon!
This particular quarter panel was discontinued by Toyota last year but I managed to get one of the last ones. Phew! It's rare as it has the threaded anchor points for the pillar handles. Quite excited, the body damage is going to get fixed soon!
- Thread starter
- #113
Truck is at the body shop! It's official people!
Approx 2 weeks until she's finished.
Here are the before photos the day I dropped her off.
Approx 2 weeks until she's finished.
Here are the before photos the day I dropped her off.
- Thread starter
- #114
Just a quick update from the body shop.
New quarter panel welded in and primed! Ready for painting!
New quarter panel welded in and primed! Ready for painting!
- Thread starter
- #115
BACK FROM THE BODY SHOP.
Holy smokes these guys did an amazing job.
The shop is called Screamin' Paintworks in NE Calgary. Dave was a dream to work with and his workmanship is second to none. Great guys to say the least.
Also got tires after the body work. I decided on 265 75 16 BFG KO2s. These are 32s. I usually run 285s but after running 33s on my 80 and 3rd gen 4runner I decided it was too much of a sacrifice to on road performance. It's an overland rig, not a wheeling rig. I've also been watching tons of 4xoverland and he runs 32s on his rigs.
Also went and filled up both tanks. $.
The adventure continues... now to tackle some body vibrations.
Holy smokes these guys did an amazing job.
The shop is called Screamin' Paintworks in NE Calgary. Dave was a dream to work with and his workmanship is second to none. Great guys to say the least.
Also got tires after the body work. I decided on 265 75 16 BFG KO2s. These are 32s. I usually run 285s but after running 33s on my 80 and 3rd gen 4runner I decided it was too much of a sacrifice to on road performance. It's an overland rig, not a wheeling rig. I've also been watching tons of 4xoverland and he runs 32s on his rigs.
Also went and filled up both tanks. $.
The adventure continues... now to tackle some body vibrations.
Great updates, wow that quarter replacement came out smooth
- Thread starter
- #117
Replaced the rear drums and shoes. These drums are enormous!
Also got my buddy to help push some dents out of my diesel 80 series. Gotta clean her up to sell!
Also got my buddy to help push some dents out of my diesel 80 series. Gotta clean her up to sell!
- Thread starter
- #118
Weekend update.
So I've been trying to figure out a rumble in the vehicle. It's not quite a driveline vibe as the whole cab vibrates when going over bumps.
I checked shocks, control arm bushings, sway bars, drive shafts (again) and everything looked good.
I then looked at the body mounts and found some interesting things.
First, middle mounts. The bushing where my finger is pointing can move easily. I can twist it more than a quarter turn. And it's like that on all 4 Middle mounts.
Next are the two rears. Look closely. See the crack inside? I'm assuming this is not good. You can also see the bushing is not aligned with the washer on the bottom end. Both are like this.
Could these cause some rumbling and vibrations??
While I ponder this issue, I tackled the next item. Rear door hinge/lock overhaul. The small door hinge is pooched from the incident and the big door still isn't closing well. So I'm replacing everything.
So I've been trying to figure out a rumble in the vehicle. It's not quite a driveline vibe as the whole cab vibrates when going over bumps.
I checked shocks, control arm bushings, sway bars, drive shafts (again) and everything looked good.
I then looked at the body mounts and found some interesting things.
First, middle mounts. The bushing where my finger is pointing can move easily. I can twist it more than a quarter turn. And it's like that on all 4 Middle mounts.
Next are the two rears. Look closely. See the crack inside? I'm assuming this is not good. You can also see the bushing is not aligned with the washer on the bottom end. Both are like this.
Could these cause some rumbling and vibrations??
While I ponder this issue, I tackled the next item. Rear door hinge/lock overhaul. The small door hinge is pooched from the incident and the big door still isn't closing well. So I'm replacing everything.
Is this your opportunity to do a body lift?
Very interesting about the body mounts. I haven't done a lot of inspection yet, but I've got what I'd describe as a "creaking" when weight shifts front to back (primarily, I think). After checking everything suspension related, I'm pretty convinced it's the body mounts. Please post more as you clean/get into it.
