gofast
SILVER Star
That is some serious baselining!
Builds My GCC Spec 1HD-FTE Converted FZJ100 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter gnarlynick2072
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #82
Small update
Truck is coming together nicely! Got the new steering rack in and completed all the power steering lines. Looks super shiny down there but difficult to get a nice pic. lol Also new heater hoses in as well. Need to figure out upgrading the heater core as it is undersized for North American winters. So for startup I'll be bypassing the heater core.
I did notice some dust/light sand fell into the cylinders when I pulled the lower manifold. Argh! I had a bit of a panic and bought a wireless boroscope to inspect the cylinders. Super interesting to say the least! Going to modify my shop vac so I can put a vacuum down the spark plug hole and suck as much as I can out and will start the motor without the plugs to shoot any excess out (thanks @gofast !)
Not much carbon build up at all on the cylinders too.
All buttoned up. Yes, there is a long heater hose sitting in the back. I have bypassed the heater core as I want to put in a bigger one that'll deal with Canadian weather. Just didn't want to drain it again is all...
Truck is coming together nicely! Got the new steering rack in and completed all the power steering lines. Looks super shiny down there but difficult to get a nice pic. lol Also new heater hoses in as well. Need to figure out upgrading the heater core as it is undersized for North American winters. So for startup I'll be bypassing the heater core.
I did notice some dust/light sand fell into the cylinders when I pulled the lower manifold. Argh! I had a bit of a panic and bought a wireless boroscope to inspect the cylinders. Super interesting to say the least! Going to modify my shop vac so I can put a vacuum down the spark plug hole and suck as much as I can out and will start the motor without the plugs to shoot any excess out (thanks @gofast !)
Not much carbon build up at all on the cylinders too.
All buttoned up. Yes, there is a long heater hose sitting in the back. I have bypassed the heater core as I want to put in a bigger one that'll deal with Canadian weather. Just didn't want to drain it again is all...
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #83
Well she's up and running!
Now on to suspension.
Now on to suspension.
- Thread starter
- #84
Some stuff I forgot to include!
I got a new steering rack that's meant to go into a US spec. There are two different steering racks for 100 series, 44250-60050 and 44250-60060. Looking at the EPC, the ONLY difference between the two assemblies is the valve part #. So, I removed it from the new one and the old one to compare. Aside from the connection at the top (which is cross compatible) they look identical. Maybe the torsion bar is different between the two?? The one on the left is meant for the 2UZ models, the one on the right is for the inline 6, 1FZ/1HD IFS models.
NOTE that removing these is a huge PITA. I regretted it the whole time. I now understand why people don't rebuild these themselves. You need a very specialized tool to remove the nut that holds the valve in place. You also need a 0-30 in-lb torque wrench to set the pre-load properly and a fitting to use it. Took me a while to get it all back together properly. Without these tools, don't even try rebuilding these. I had to make my own...
Here's everything buttoned up. I did A LOT of cleaning under the motor. The sand mixed with the leaked oils and created almost a cement on the motor. It took many many hours to clean everything.
I got a new steering rack that's meant to go into a US spec. There are two different steering racks for 100 series, 44250-60050 and 44250-60060. Looking at the EPC, the ONLY difference between the two assemblies is the valve part #. So, I removed it from the new one and the old one to compare. Aside from the connection at the top (which is cross compatible) they look identical. Maybe the torsion bar is different between the two?? The one on the left is meant for the 2UZ models, the one on the right is for the inline 6, 1FZ/1HD IFS models.
NOTE that removing these is a huge PITA. I regretted it the whole time. I now understand why people don't rebuild these themselves. You need a very specialized tool to remove the nut that holds the valve in place. You also need a 0-30 in-lb torque wrench to set the pre-load properly and a fitting to use it. Took me a while to get it all back together properly. Without these tools, don't even try rebuilding these. I had to make my own...
Here's everything buttoned up. I did A LOT of cleaning under the motor. The sand mixed with the leaked oils and created almost a cement on the motor. It took many many hours to clean everything.
- Thread starter
- #85
Also got the front output housing together on the t case. Looks like it was leaking because the u-joints grenaded on the front drive shaft.
Installed with Toyota 1281 FIPG.
New OEM u-joints on drive shaft.
Pulled the front diff as well. It was filthy. Cleaned it up and replaced the bushing and both axle seals. To do the front pressed in bushing I recommend using an air chisel to remove and pressing back in with a ball joint press. Made quick work of it.
Installed with Toyota 1281 FIPG.
New OEM u-joints on drive shaft.
Pulled the front diff as well. It was filthy. Cleaned it up and replaced the bushing and both axle seals. To do the front pressed in bushing I recommend using an air chisel to remove and pressing back in with a ball joint press. Made quick work of it.
- Thread starter
- #86
Still working away on suspension. I'll take more pics are more stuff gets installed.
For now, getting CVs rebooted with OEM kits. Not fun. Especially trying to fill the outboard CV joint with the larger grease packet. I found it difficult squeezing it all in there.
For now, getting CVs rebooted with OEM kits. Not fun. Especially trying to fill the outboard CV joint with the larger grease packet. I found it difficult squeezing it all in there.
How difficult is it to put new U-joints in?
- Thread starter
- #88
They can be tough. My buddy has a u joint puller which makes it much easier. Removal is the toughest part. Installing new u-joints takes 10 minutes. I prefer not to use the hammer method as it leaves quite a mess and you can damage parts.
- Thread starter
- #89
So close to getting this thing rolling! Full front end rebuild almost completed. New upper control arms, lower ca bushings and ball joints, knuckle seals, hub seals, bearings, OEM brakes, OME heavy shocks (for future bumper). Just need calipers and she's good to go for body work.
Also ordered manual free wheel hubs but will install on a later date.
Also ordered manual free wheel hubs but will install on a later date.
Am I the only one that gets excited when new updates surface on this thread?
- Thread starter
- #91
Thanks! I wasn't sure if people were reading my thread lol
Also I've been meaning to add more pictures, the last few updates have been a little lean.
Better updates to follow!
gofast
SILVER Star
I'm a keener and drooler. We'll have to get together and try it out!
- Thread starter
- #93
Got the other hub installed last night. Some pics I forgot to take on the LH side.
Picking up calipers today! So close!
Picking up calipers today! So close!
- Thread starter
- #94
Definitely! I'll be in your neck of the woods ~July. I'm for sure driving this thing out there!
I'm loving what you're done with your 100 series from Saudi. Cool to see such an invasive rebuild. I'm familiar with the oil/sand cementitious gunk that builds up on rigs here. Yuck!
I'm still 4 years away from being able to bring my 80-series home with me to America. I love my GCC spec truck as well.
I'm still 4 years away from being able to bring my 80-series home with me to America. I love my GCC spec truck as well.
- Thread starter
- #96
The GCC spec stuff is pretty cool. Keep your eyes out for a 105 for me would ya?
Small update, got her on the road! I did my best alignment I could with a tape measure but boy was it out of alignment. Took it to Kal Tire and now it's all good.
Going to body shop Thursday, fingers crossed it'll be fixed sooner than later!
Lastly, I did notice a vibration coming from the rear. Rear bearings seem fine and no noise. I'm thinking it could be the rear drive shaft u joints. I'm thinking of running with just the front drive shaft to make sure. Anyone done this with an early model diff?
gofast
SILVER Star
Body shop finally!. Take a few before and after pics!
- Thread starter
- #98
Trip to the body shop went well. Guys there said the damage wasn't as bad as they thought. The biggest challenge will be getting the quarter panel from the UAE as it is not the same as the US models. I'm going to try to preserve the quarter pillar ladder steps.
In the mean time while the body shop is working out parts (with my consulting) I'll be working on switching out the heater core. The Middle East spec heater cores are super tiny and would not work well for canadian weather. Since I damaged the one on the 100 when removing the hoses I figured might as well change it out.
So I went to a wrecker and found a heater core housing from a 99 LX470 with the cold area spec heater core. I realized that the housing will be different and didn't want to just modify the existing on the FZJ100 and dump a cold spec into it.
I'm debating buying a new core or just use the one from the wrecker. Anyone recommend any aftermarket options? OEM is way too expensive.
Also, manual hubs came in. Truck didn't have them from factory, so Aisin hubs weren't an option (yet).
In the mean time while the body shop is working out parts (with my consulting) I'll be working on switching out the heater core. The Middle East spec heater cores are super tiny and would not work well for canadian weather. Since I damaged the one on the 100 when removing the hoses I figured might as well change it out.
So I went to a wrecker and found a heater core housing from a 99 LX470 with the cold area spec heater core. I realized that the housing will be different and didn't want to just modify the existing on the FZJ100 and dump a cold spec into it.
I'm debating buying a new core or just use the one from the wrecker. Anyone recommend any aftermarket options? OEM is way too expensive.
Also, manual hubs came in. Truck didn't have them from factory, so Aisin hubs weren't an option (yet).
- Thread starter
- #99
This is what I'm leaning towards for heater core. 1/6 the cost vs going OEM.
I haven't had luck finding any reviews of their products but the info on their website seems promising.
I haven't had luck finding any reviews of their products but the info on their website seems promising.
I've been watching/reading/admiring.
There's nothing wrong with aftermarket heater cores other than a slight increase in failure rate. I would consider how diffivult/time consuming it is to replace when deciding OEM vs aftermarket. If it's a 30 min job, aftermarket it is. If it's going to take the better part of 3 days to disassemble the entire interior, I would consider just going OE.
There's nothing wrong with aftermarket heater cores other than a slight increase in failure rate. I would consider how diffivult/time consuming it is to replace when deciding OEM vs aftermarket. If it's a 30 min job, aftermarket it is. If it's going to take the better part of 3 days to disassemble the entire interior, I would consider just going OE.
