Builds The 60 known as Mamabear: a tale of rust and good times. (3 Viewers)

[HemiAlex]

Some pictures of my "cracked exhaust valve".

Actually, a "Burnt" valve. Got super hot, locally thinned at the seat area (a million reasons why, it was probably lean). Eventually, the heated exhaust gas eroded the seat interface and it stopped holding compression. No wonder #5 was only 20 psi.

Bonus points to anyone who can tell what field I work in from the style of pictures.

 

[gregnash]

Wow.... thats interesting to see that close and clean a photo... Imagine that is probably not something that you have, equipment wise, at your disposal.

As for the headgasket, if I remember correctly there is a tab along the short edge that goes to the rear. Really only one way to install like that. Double-check with the other guys like @Spike Strip @beno @reevesci @FJ40Jim etc.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Wow.... thats interesting to see that close and clean a photo... Imagine that is probably not something that you have, equipment wise, at your disposal.

As for the headgasket, if I remember correctly there is a tab along the short edge that goes to the rear. Really only one way to install like that. Double-check with the other guys like @Spike Strip @beno @reevesci @FJ40Jim etc.

Pic of my last HG and build.

J

 

[FJ40Jim]

Looks like the JTO/MAF cardboard gasket. May want to consider installing the OEM graphlex/stainless gasket now. Or wait a few hundred miles and do it then.

Somewhere there is a post comparing the OEM to the bottom drawer aftermarket, but I can't find it now.

 

[FJ40Jim]

Found it. Pic & explanations in post #17:
how many head gaskets should you replace in a year ?

 

[HemiAlex]

I'm at a hold now. Waiting for my CSF radiator from amazon to come in.

Note taken on the headgasket. Thanks.

 

[HemiAlex]

Radiator is here, and the CSF unit looks great. I'm very happy with the initial impressions.

$295 to my door from Amazon.

 

[gregnash]

Nice!

 

[TLC Norway]

Looking good!

 

[HemiAlex]

Slight project delay. I'm out of town for work for 2 weeks to 45 days.


Land cruiser has the head bolted back on with the intake manifold bolted on...but nothing else.

This has been sitting also...

No time to play, just work.

@gregnash I've got your tap and socket. I'll send them when I get back to town.

 

[gregnash]

No worries dude. Take your time.

 

[HemiAlex]

It's alive and strong. Now running on all 6!

Pull the choke out half way, tap the gas twice and it doesn't need any babysitting to run. Will hot restart easily. I think the single biggest issue with the truck besides the burnt exhaust valve was the cracked intake, but one may have caused the other.

Here's what was done:

Rebuilt head
-Toyota Valve Springs
-SpeedPro Intake and Exhaust Valves
-Felpro Seals and gaskets

Valves adjusted to spec

Cracked intake manifold welded up.

New cooling system
-CSF radiator
-Aisin Water pump
-Aisin Fan Clutch

Replaced all oil cooler lines and gaskets.

Charged the new AC system.

I drove it about 150 miles on Saturday and it was running really great.

Next up is a new OEM PS pump since mine is leaking and also throw a new Kyosan Fuel pump with new rubber lines. I'll be able to call the mechanicals good. I'm not quite sold on a trollhole carb yet because I don't know that I've got any fueling issues from the carb.

I also picked up a BJ60 air cleaner assembly to eventually connect up the snorkel that I've yet to buy.

 

[gregnash]

Check with Georg to see if his Saginaw conversion kit is ready yet!!!

 

[HemiAlex]

I've been following that thread. It seems like nothing much has happened but the demand is there. I'd like to just go buy a premium Saginaw pump. I had one on my Roadrunner that I gave away years ago.

 

[HemiAlex]

Shortly after replacing all the major parts of the cooling system, one of my lower radiator hoses sprung a leak.

It was spraying coolant onto my new AC belt and compressor. It caused the belt to slip and dust everywhere. I knew I was it in for at least one hose and a belt. I was really intending to just fix what was wrong but I know my luck.

I ended up redoing all the hoses in the oil cooler system and all four radiator hoses. I used all factory stuff and clamps. The hardest part was getting the generic hoses and clamps off. I did manage to break one of the oem wire hose clamps. I figured it would have given me more warning but I learned they don't have to be super tight.

I burped the system and temps came into range. All went well and it took a few hours.

I'd like to also buy all new heater hoses but they're in decent shape.

 

[gregnash]

Nice that you got it all done... I am with you in that I know my own luck and will end up having to replace down the line so might as well replace those hoses that are a #$^&* to get to while I have everything apart.

 

[HemiAlex]

I've still got some seepage after driving it to work this morning. I don't know if its a hose leaking or the half gallon of coolant I spilled all over the frame when I started filling the radiator without the drain plug in.

Temps were a little high on the freeway, about 3/4 of the way up the gauge at cruise but it didn't spike. I probably need to bleed the air out one more time and top it off.

Now that it's getting more reliable its time to start doing suspension stuff and get my BJ60 intake hooked up. Still not sold on a trollhole carb but if my secondaries don't work I'll take the plunge.

 

[klinetime574]

I use a yellow funnel that fits into my radiator neck perfectly. I fill the system, then start the truck, squeeze, fill, squeeze, fill, repeat. Truck will need to get to operating temp, keep the level on the funnel higher than the rest of the system. These don't have bleed screws like some vehicles do so the easiest way is just to get the radiator neck the highest in the system.

If the secondary does not work, just replace the diaphragm. Probably a dried crusty thing at this point. Mine was bad only after 164k in 2007.

 

[gregnash]

I use a yellow funnel that fits into my radiator neck perfectly. I fill the system, then start the truck, squeeze, fill, squeeze, fill, repeat. Truck will need to get to operating temp, keep the level on the funnel higher than the rest of the system. These don't have bleed screws like some vehicles do so the easiest way is just to get the radiator neck the highest in the system.

If the secondary does not work, just replace the diaphragm. Probably a dried crusty thing at this point. Mine was bad only after 164k in 2007.

For reference this is the funnel that Alex is talking about...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001A4EAV...UTF8&colid=HJUAHAJJXRBT&coliid=I2M0I4ED8STTZM

And yeah, get that secondary diaphragm taken care of. Sure that will help matters some.

 

[klinetime574]

For reference this is the funnel that Alex is talking about...

And yeah, get that secondary diaphragm taken care of. Sure that will help matters some.

Actually I just have some el cheapo thing I got at O'Reilly's. I think it's this one <-- Link

That funnel in conjunction with parking the nose on a hill, or putting the front tires on wood, rocks, etc works just fine.

That's a cool funnel though @gregnash