From looking at the pics the gap between the tires and spring looks like a inch or two difference . Dose that sound right? Or are the back spacing different on the wheels?
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My first Toyota
- Thread starter robustbambi
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From looking at the pics the gap between the tires and spring looks like a inch or two difference . Dose that sound right? Or are the back spacing different on the wheels?
Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
- Thread starter
- #702
Yep sounds about right. From wheel mounting point to wheel mounting point, it's 3" wider than a 60 axle. I'm pretty sure 60 series axles are 60" and 80 axles are 63". But I'm not 100% sure. I know there's a 3" difference, that's about it haha.
80 series rims have a BS of 4.5" so that extra 1" figures in there somewhere.
- Thread starter
- #703
Got back to work this morning on the cruiser and am almost done! I gave up on trying to make the the early design 4+plus u bolt plates sit flat on the spring so i ordered all new stuff for the 3 remaining corners last night. Its a pain having to wait for the parts to arrive, but i think it will be worth it during the install and in the long run.
A couple modifications are necessary to fit the e locked diff into the stock 62 front housing:
You'll need to grind the housing a little on the left side so that the locking mechanism can fit inside..
And you'll need to swap in 4 longer studs..
-two really long ones on the left side
-two slightly longer ones (same length as the 1 and 5 o'clock studs) swapped into the 12 and 6 o'clock location
I didn't realize the top and bottom needed to be swapped, so my brother and I FIPG'd, stuck the diff in, and started bolting everything up, Then... Fxxx!!!!
Im sure you guys can imagine whats going inside, but heres a little visual reference..
UNLOCKED
LOCKED
INSTALLED!!!!
The beautiful longfields are hidden away, hubs are regreased, and the spidertrax is acting as the cherry on top.
Rusty's chopped dust shields replaced the pretty ones on Woody.
little baby axle
After i get the u bolt kits installed I'm gonna see if i can annoy a couple of the master fabricators in the Ga Cruisers enough and see if they can show me how to weld up my front shock towers (that i still need to buy), reweld my rear shock mounts more towards the center of the top bar, and the massive job, that they didn't think was so huge hahaha, move the front and rear shackle mounts inward to give me a much better shackle angle and increase flex
but thats probably not gonna happen too soon haha.
A couple modifications are necessary to fit the e locked diff into the stock 62 front housing:
You'll need to grind the housing a little on the left side so that the locking mechanism can fit inside..
And you'll need to swap in 4 longer studs..
-two really long ones on the left side
-two slightly longer ones (same length as the 1 and 5 o'clock studs) swapped into the 12 and 6 o'clock location
I didn't realize the top and bottom needed to be swapped, so my brother and I FIPG'd, stuck the diff in, and started bolting everything up, Then... Fxxx!!!!
Im sure you guys can imagine whats going inside, but heres a little visual reference..
UNLOCKED
LOCKED
INSTALLED!!!!
The beautiful longfields are hidden away, hubs are regreased, and the spidertrax is acting as the cherry on top.
Rusty's chopped dust shields replaced the pretty ones on Woody.
little baby axle
After i get the u bolt kits installed I'm gonna see if i can annoy a couple of the master fabricators in the Ga Cruisers enough and see if they can show me how to weld up my front shock towers (that i still need to buy), reweld my rear shock mounts more towards the center of the top bar, and the massive job, that they didn't think was so huge hahaha, move the front and rear shackle mounts inward to give me a much better shackle angle and increase flex
but thats probably not gonna happen too soon haha.
Last edited:
=robustbambi;8983275
After i get the u bolt kits installed I'm gonna see if i can annoy a couple of the master fabricators in the Ga Cruisers enough and see if they can show me how to weld up my front shock towers (that i still need to buy), reweld my rear shock mounts more towards the center of the top bar, and the massive job, that they didn't think was so huge hahaha, move the front and rear shackle mounts inward to give me a much better shackle angle and increase flex
but thats probably not gonna happen too soon haha.
Looking sweet!
Great idea to relocate the shackle mounts, you'll be stoked with the added flex. I'd use the Ford shock towers up front, I used the Trailgear hoops and my wheels rub them a bit.
- Thread starter
- #705
Thanks! Yeah I remembered that you recommended those so I was gonna give them a shot. After wheeling the truck last month for te first time since the shackle reversal, I could tell that it needed these shackle and shock mods. Especially now that its going to have the u bolt flip. It's an excellent product. It's designed so that the lower shock mount is angled up so that it keeps your expensive shocks way up out of the rocks, but that means my shocks are a little more compressed than they were. I'm excited to see how much better it rides when all that welding is completed at some point a ways down the road.
I have been catching up on your progress good to see parts of the old girl living on. I missed why you opted for the life ending spuder trax over the sky widening kit for the front axle? I had two separate sets of them fail before i went with the sky kit. Make sure you pul the front wheels at least once a month and retorque the spuder trax,
Truck is lookiing good
Truck is lookiing good
- Thread starter
- #707
Thank you! Yeah I don't plan on letting anything useful on your old truck go to waste. I went with spacers because the widening kit was ridiculously corroded to the rotors. Even after I finally got all the studs out of the back and let it sit in an annoyingly expensive bowl of PB blaster over night, there was no separating the two pieces. I'm not too worried about the spacers because most failures come from either incorrect installation or not checking up on them every once in a while like you said. I am planning on re torquing them every single chance I get just to make sure one of these things doesn't ruin my day.
Next time you want to soak the rust off something, try white vinegar or a solution of molasses and water. They are not as fast as PB blaster, though. If you are not in a hurry, the white vinegar will get things right down to the bare steel.
- Thread starter
- #709
yeah i figured if PB blaster didn't do the job, i shouldn't waste time trying any home made snake oil rust remedies hahaha.
Vinegar isnt a snake oil deal. Its an incredibly cheap and reliable cleaning solvent in foodnservice and will get a caked up flattop grill back to stainless within 10 minutes with some scrubbing.
Haha no lobby, just a formerly underpaid and overworked line cook, dish dog, and kitchen manager, vinegar works really well. Of course I traded that to work at a diesel shop and for Georg on the side so you could say im moving up haha
Corn starch works wonders for stains too haha especially things that cant get wet like felt, or fur or whatever lol
That cable locker conversion kit is nice
- Thread starter
- #716
Thanks Johnny 
Although Im beginning to think about alternatives to the gigantic levers. They look amazing and I'm sure they would work beautifully, but I really want a smaller device, whether it be a smaller lever or just a knob that you pull on to unlock and push on to engage. The only thing i would be worried about with a knob system like that would be accidental stimulation… The Tuffy with the separate door for a radio could be a pretty good spot to route them up into possibly? I guess t'll all get figured out soon enough haha.
Anyway, The rest of the unbolt flip kit got here today. THANKS LCWIZARD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So ill be able to finish up and get Woody back on the road tomorrow!
Although Im beginning to think about alternatives to the gigantic levers. They look amazing and I'm sure they would work beautifully, but I really want a smaller device, whether it be a smaller lever or just a knob that you pull on to unlock and push on to engage. The only thing i would be worried about with a knob system like that would be accidental stimulation… The Tuffy with the separate door for a radio could be a pretty good spot to route them up into possibly? I guess t'll all get figured out soon enough haha.
Anyway, The rest of the unbolt flip kit got here today. THANKS LCWIZARD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So ill be able to finish up and get Woody back on the road tomorrow!
- Thread starter
- #718
Uh oh, i hope I'm not gaining the reputation of a man who knows what they're doing on cruisers
CharlesThe new u bolt flip kit slid perfectly into place. Spending the money was definitely a better choice than trying to maneuver that old kit into place… That got old real quick
Front:
Ive decided I'm going to change the tie rods in the next few weeks too. I don't really need to, but the new ones i have look so nice...
Rear:
No shocks in the rear because they're pretty much fully compressed at normal driving conditions, so i don't want to fxxx them up already haha. Zip tied the new LSPV "arm" to the axle and I'm happy to report that the LSPV i bought a couple months back from Ryaneddy16 works great! No more weird rear axle brake locking up!!!!!! And don't pay any attention to the brake line on the right, i disconnected then rubber gloved the fxxx out of that thing!
Im just really hating these tires, I'm not planning on using them, but on the short test drive, two of them went flat… after i spent like 30 minutes FOOT PUMPING them up with air… i really need a damn compressor. But the hub looks good.
So here it is in all its glory…
Ill hopefully have some better pics tomorrow
So where I'm at now…
-The locker cable still needs to be routed (Both axle levers have like 200000 zip ties ensuring that they don't engage while I'm driving)
-Call Onur and see if he can procure for me some OEM cable locker levers
-I removed the exhaust from Rusty and am planning to swap that over sometime.
-TIRESSSSS (as soon as someone buys the toyos, ill have money for them)
-Repaint 80 series rims
-Weld LSPV arm bracket onto the 80 axle
-All that other welding (shackle angles, Ford shock towers, rear upper shock mounts)
Then, probably done
except for bumpers, lights, any other dumb BS i spend my money on
Why not eliminate the LSPV instead of welding a bracket onto the new axle?
- Thread starter
- #720
I've thought a little about using the wilwood PV, but I don't really know anything about them. Mainly, I just didn't want to screw anything up haha. But it looks to be a relatively easy swap, just need to reroute the brake lines I think. It's something to think about for sure since its probably an improvement? It would subtract from the chaos on that rear axle, that's for sure lol.
