My First FJ40 My Introduction

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

dmaddox said:
Careful going down that path, it’s a very deep, scary and costly rabbit hole.

Humor aside, welcome!! Looks like you have a sweet cruiser! Easy to whip into shape. Keep us posted on the progress and have fun!
Click to expand...
Oh, I understand that. My dad owned a sailboat when I was a kid. He called it "A hole in the water into which you threw money."
 
Dianna said:
Welcome to the madness! :) You came to the right place, tons of knowledge here and lot of helpful people.
"The fuel tank leaks a bit, but after looking at the underside, it may be a drain plug gasket." Your fuel tank is most likely rusty and has a lot of pinholes. I used a POR15 fuel tank repair kit on mine 20 years ago and it's still holding up! You will most likely find some ammo when you pull your tank, lol, along with a lot of gunk that tends to collect under the tank causing the rust.

"All of the rubber from the hoses to the door seals to the windshield wipers needs to be replaced" Not surprised, you might be able to bring back some of the seals by soaking them in 303 protectant, Meguiars protectant, some people swear by ATF and some use heated water and wintergreen oil to restore rubber. Some replacement parts are expensive or Ubotanium so you might want to try to save what you can.

"Are there better options than the Haynes Repair Manuals for guidance?" Yes, the factory service manual. I'm pretty sure the links that were posted here were removed by toyota, but you might be able to still find some online. There are always some for sale on Ebay however.

"Also, I don't want to start a holy war, but based on the bumper I have, what winch would folks recommend?" Lots of people love the Badlands winch from Harbor Freight. You didn't really show a decent pic of the bumper, but it looks like it was constructed to move a herd of buffalo.

Rather than try to figure out what the heck is going on with that motor, carb, ignition system, etc. I think you would be better off yanking it and shoving in a newer 2f with the carb, ignitor, and all other "bolt on's" still attached. The license plate bolted onto the exhaust manifold pushed me over the edge, lol. Before you do that though, I'd change all the fluids and just drive the crap out of it. I think half the 40's that get torn apart never see the road again!

Good luck, keep us updated!!!
Click to expand...
Thanks! Great info. I appreciate the tips on the rubber. I cleaned out the inside yesterday and found that two of the rear windows need to be "reseated" but I think I can do it without replacing the gasket.

Any idea what I should reasonably expect to pay for a new 2F? I was planning on tinkering and learning on this one and replacing it after I know what I have.

Thanks for the Harbor Freight winch tip, I visit so often they greet me like Norm walking into Cheers! :beer:
 
MatthewMcD said:
Any idea what I should reasonably expect to pay for a new 2F? I was planning on tinkering and learning on this one and replacing it after I know what I have.
Click to expand...
This forum is a great place to source a good running 2F. I picked up a recent rebuild with a NOS head for $3500 a year ago on this forum.

keep an eye out for threads where people are doing engine swaps.
 
Dianna said:
Welcome to the madness! :) You came to the right place, tons of knowledge here and lot of helpful people.
"The fuel tank leaks a bit, but after looking at the underside, it may be a drain plug gasket." Your fuel tank is most likely rusty and has a lot of pinholes. I used a POR15 fuel tank repair kit on mine 20 years ago and it's still holding up! You will most likely find some ammo when you pull your tank, lol, along with a lot of gunk that tends to collect under the tank causing the rust.
Click to expand...
@Dianna I am looking at the POR15 process. Was a quart sized kit enough for the FJ tank or do I need more? (And I did find a couple 12-gauge dove loads! :)
 
new tanks are available from both ccot and toyota...its not worth the hassle chasing a leaking gas tank.
 
I had enough left to do a motorcycle tank. Those tanks are small! If I hadn’t of used it with great success 20 years later, I would not have recommended it. I tried it while waiting for funds to buy a new tank and that tank is still sitting on my parts shelf because that repair is still holding up. If you opt to go new, stay away from poly tanks. Prices of 2f’s are all over the place. Depends on mileage, compression numbers, included components… also, newer 2f’s, particularly 81 and up go for more money. I paid a grand for an 82 2F with over 200k that had everything on it. If you buy one from a member here that’s been around a bit, you will be much more likely to get what the seller describes.
 
Post pics of your progress, we love pics! LOL :)
 
MatthewMcD said:
Howdy! I am excited to be joining this great community. My entry is a 1975 FJ40. She's been sitting under an oak tree for the past 5 years, which helped prevent sun damage, but left her with a lot of moss growing on the roof.

VIN/Frame: FJ40-200897 (May 1975)
Engine: F-258321

View attachment 3399670

She runs and, after giving her a bath today, has a great body. There are some rust bubbles at the bottoms of the doors, but the body is otherwise in great shape. One front fender has some odd texture to the paint.
View attachment 3399669
I plan to clean out the interior tomorrow, so she'll have the day to dry out before I start to plan for the future. I do know the seats are very likely toast.

I want to take care of some of the initial condition issues. I removed all the moss and the roof is pealing but doesn't have any pin holes. I have seen plenty of "replacement" videos but I am wondering if I can sand it down and refinish the roof without removing it. I used to work on fiberglass boats and the top looks similar.
View attachment 3399676


The engine is an F with some elements of the 2F. It needs a tune up and some carb work. The air filter connection at the carb is a janky rubber hose that fits into the air filter without any metal support. I need to look at more photos to see if there are parts missing.
View attachment 3399666View attachment 3399667

The fuel tank leaks a bit, but after looking at the underside, it may be a drain plug gasket. All of the rubber from the hoses to the door seals to the windshield wipers needs to be replaced. Though the window seals appear to be in good shape.

Are there better options than the Haynes Repair Manuals for guidance?

Also, I don't want to start a holy war, but based on the bumper I have, what winch would folks recommend? (Or should I start a new thread for that?)

I have been a lurker here for a few months and am looking forward to consuming and contributing as I go.

Thanks in advance!

Matt
Click to expand...
My top was in similar (though not quite that bad) condition. I made sure the loose chips came off, filled (I believe an epoxy filler), sanded then covered in monstaliner (cygnus white version). Although not stock, looks quite good.
 
MatthewMcD said:
Are there better options than the Haynes Repair Manuals for guidance?
Click to expand...

If it hasn't been said already, yes - the Toyota factory service manuals are far superior. You can get PDF copies for free here on mud, in this forum.

Welcome to the madness!
 
1911 said:
If it hasn't been said already, yes - the Toyota factory service manuals are far superior. You can get PDF copies for free here on mud, in this forum.

Welcome to the madness!
Click to expand...
I find I need both the Haines and the FSM in tandem. The FSM is better but there are some advantages in the Haines.
 
I have used this as an inexpensive coating for my fiberglass top, has lasted 14 yrs.
As a boat person you may be familiar. Easy to apply with roller and self leveling.

1696177326554.png

1 qt. was enough if memory serves
 
sterling said:
I have used this as an inexpensive coating for my fiberglass top, has lasted 14 yrs.
As a boat person you may be familiar. Easy to apply with roller and self leveling.

View attachment 3444522
1 qt. was enough if memory serves
Click to expand...
I was thinking about that. After sanding the top it's pretty rough, did you do a pass with fairing compound to smooth it out?
 
MatthewMcD said:
I was thinking about that. After sanding the top it's pretty rough, did you do a pass with fairing compound to smooth it out?
Click to expand...
My top wasn't really pitted etc. I sanded smooth where needed and built up the paint in some spots. Its very forgiving, fills in semi-small to small scratches well.
Truck looks like a great starting point, congrats!
 
sterling said:
Truck looks like a great starting point, congrats!
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
As most folks here know..."looks can be deceiving!" ;)

I got it running smoothly by replacing the rubber fuel lines, the fuel tank, and cleaning out the crap in the carb. (Rebuild will wait for now.)
Now I am working on getting it to stop. Replaced the rear brakes, waiting on master cylinder parts.

I lubed every fitting I could find (new tie rod ends are now on the list). While on jack stands I tested 2WD/4WDH/4WDL and the wheels turn when they are supposed to and in the correct direction.

While I wait on brake parts I am evaluating the electrical system (lights and blinkers) so I can pass the safety inspection. I'll be troubleshooting the blinkers today. Testing relays and ground wires.
 
I have been bad about keeping the updates flowing to this thread, but I have HUGE news. Yesterday she passed her Texas Vehicle Safety Inspection! It has been an amazing, challenging, (though not as expensive as I thought) ride. For anyone embarking on this "hobby" I have this advice.

  1. Get organized, figure out the goal for the next month (or two).
  2. Make a list of what you need to get there. In my case the goal was passing the inspection. The list came from the Texas Vehicle Code.
  3. Work one problem at a time while you order the parts for the next problem. Having a steady supply of parts rolling in kept me productive on the weekends.
Don't get overwhelmed. These forums are amazing for their knowledge, but also for the moral support they provide. Others have been right where you are, sitting in a steaming hot garage, with a disassembled "thing" trying to solve the "why doesn't this work?" question.
In getting to this momentous point, I have:
  • Replaced the fuel tank and all fuel lines
  • Replaced the rear brakes and brake lines
  • Replaced the master cylinder
  • Re-soldered and fixed the backup switch and lights
  • Rewired the rear blinkers
  • Replaced and rewired the rear marker lights
  • Rewired the front turn signals
  • Repaired the horns (makes me smile every time I honk and hear the lovely "chord" it plays.)
  • Manufactured horn button springs
  • Rebuilt the replacement Rochester carb
  • Rebuild the rear lift struts
  • Restored the license plate frame
Taking her out for a drive was thrilling. Once I get my plates and tag Monday she's off to get new tires.

I plan to write up or add to existing threads some of the additional stuff I have learned along the way, like testing circuits. Seems like a lot of folks struggle with the electrical component of working on an FJ40. I find it easy if you follow the FSM. My favorite "makes me smile" moment happened recently while troubleshooting the engine temperature sender. I think of this as a 1960s engineer sending me a message from the past.

 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Birdhunter007
Introduction
Replies
3
Views
543
B y r o n
B y r o n
thisoldcruiser
My First Cruiser: Keep It Stock
Replies
13
Views
1K
kenjera
kenjera
7840au
Introduction - ‘78 FJ40 in Aus
Replies
4
Views
1K
KFJ45
KFJ45
Cruiser Cult
Early FJ40 FJ45 Oil filter alternative tech
Replies
8
Views
562
Cruiser Cult
Cruiser Cult

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom