MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #21
Oh, I understand that. My dad owned a sailboat when I was a kid. He called it "A hole in the water into which you threw money."
My First FJ40 My Introduction (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter MatthewMcD
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MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #22
Thanks! Great info. I appreciate the tips on the rubber. I cleaned out the inside yesterday and found that two of the rear windows need to be "reseated" but I think I can do it without replacing the gasket.Welcome to the madness!You came to the right place, tons of knowledge here and lot of helpful people.
"The fuel tank leaks a bit, but after looking at the underside, it may be a drain plug gasket." Your fuel tank is most likely rusty and has a lot of pinholes. I used a POR15 fuel tank repair kit on mine 20 years ago and it's still holding up! You will most likely find some ammo when you pull your tank, lol, along with a lot of gunk that tends to collect under the tank causing the rust.
"All of the rubber from the hoses to the door seals to the windshield wipers needs to be replaced" Not surprised, you might be able to bring back some of the seals by soaking them in 303 protectant, Meguiars protectant, some people swear by ATF and some use heated water and wintergreen oil to restore rubber. Some replacement parts are expensive or Ubotanium so you might want to try to save what you can.
"Are there better options than the Haynes Repair Manuals for guidance?" Yes, the factory service manual. I'm pretty sure the links that were posted here were removed by toyota, but you might be able to still find some online. There are always some for sale on Ebay however.
"Also, I don't want to start a holy war, but based on the bumper I have, what winch would folks recommend?" Lots of people love the Badlands winch from Harbor Freight. You didn't really show a decent pic of the bumper, but it looks like it was constructed to move a herd of buffalo.
Rather than try to figure out what the heck is going on with that motor, carb, ignition system, etc. I think you would be better off yanking it and shoving in a newer 2f with the carb, ignitor, and all other "bolt on's" still attached. The license plate bolted onto the exhaust manifold pushed me over the edge, lol. Before you do that though, I'd change all the fluids and just drive the crap out of it. I think half the 40's that get torn apart never see the road again!
Good luck, keep us updated!!!
Any idea what I should reasonably expect to pay for a new 2F? I was planning on tinkering and learning on this one and replacing it after I know what I have.
Thanks for the Harbor Freight winch tip, I visit so often they greet me like Norm walking into Cheers!
This forum is a great place to source a good running 2F. I picked up a recent rebuild with a NOS head for $3500 a year ago on this forum.
keep an eye out for threads where people are doing engine swaps.
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #24
@Dianna I am looking at the POR15 process. Was a quart sized kit enough for the FJ tank or do I need more? (And I did find a couple 12-gauge dove loads!Welcome to the madness!
"The fuel tank leaks a bit, but after looking at the underside, it may be a drain plug gasket." Your fuel tank is most likely rusty and has a lot of pinholes. I used a POR15 fuel tank repair kit on mine 20 years ago and it's still holding up! You will most likely find some ammo when you pull your tank, lol, along with a lot of gunk that tends to collect under the tank causing the rust.
brian
SILVER Star
new tanks are available from both ccot and toyota...its not worth the hassle chasing a leaking gas tank.
I had enough left to do a motorcycle tank. Those tanks are small! If I hadn’t of used it with great success 20 years later, I would not have recommended it. I tried it while waiting for funds to buy a new tank and that tank is still sitting on my parts shelf because that repair is still holding up. If you opt to go new, stay away from poly tanks. Prices of 2f’s are all over the place. Depends on mileage, compression numbers, included components… also, newer 2f’s, particularly 81 and up go for more money. I paid a grand for an 82 2F with over 200k that had everything on it. If you buy one from a member here that’s been around a bit, you will be much more likely to get what the seller describes.
My top was in similar (though not quite that bad) condition. I made sure the loose chips came off, filled (I believe an epoxy filler), sanded then covered in monstaliner (cygnus white version). Although not stock, looks quite good.
Welcome….Congrats on your new obsession. 
1911
chupacabra
If it hasn't been said already, yes - the Toyota factory service manuals are far superior. You can get PDF copies for free here on mud, in this forum.
Welcome to the madness!
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #31
Thanks! I did find those manuals in the Reference Section, thank you for the follow up.
RevISK
SILVER Star
I find I need both the Haines and the FSM in tandem. The FSM is better but there are some advantages in the Haines.
You can say that again. My favorite is when the FSM rolls out the "disassembly is obvious" line.
Green Bean
GOLD Star
^^ That. Plus, gotta love when the FSM says something to the effect of "just grab your SST and it will pop right off."
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #35
Interesting idea. Looks like they don't have that shade anymore. Looking at "White" and "Nuclear Winter". Was a quart enough for the whole roof? If not, I could get a gallon and then two tints to use it to line the pan.
sterling
SILVER Star
I have used this as an inexpensive coating for my fiberglass top, has lasted 14 yrs.
As a boat person you may be familiar. Easy to apply with roller and self leveling.
1 qt. was enough if memory serves
As a boat person you may be familiar. Easy to apply with roller and self leveling.
1 qt. was enough if memory serves
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #37
I was thinking about that. After sanding the top it's pretty rough, did you do a pass with fairing compound to smooth it out?
sterling
SILVER Star
My top wasn't really pitted etc. I sanded smooth where needed and built up the paint in some spots. Its very forgiving, fills in semi-small to small scratches well.
Truck looks like a great starting point, congrats!
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #39
As most folks here know..."looks can be deceiving!"
I got it running smoothly by replacing the rubber fuel lines, the fuel tank, and cleaning out the crap in the carb. (Rebuild will wait for now.)
Now I am working on getting it to stop. Replaced the rear brakes, waiting on master cylinder parts.
I lubed every fitting I could find (new tie rod ends are now on the list). While on jack stands I tested 2WD/4WDH/4WDL and the wheels turn when they are supposed to and in the correct direction.
While I wait on brake parts I am evaluating the electrical system (lights and blinkers) so I can pass the safety inspection. I'll be troubleshooting the blinkers today. Testing relays and ground wires.
MatthewMcD
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #40
I have been bad about keeping the updates flowing to this thread, but I have HUGE news. Yesterday she passed her Texas Vehicle Safety Inspection! It has been an amazing, challenging, (though not as expensive as I thought) ride. For anyone embarking on this "hobby" I have this advice.
In getting to this momentous point, I have:
I plan to write up or add to existing threads some of the additional stuff I have learned along the way, like testing circuits. Seems like a lot of folks struggle with the electrical component of working on an FJ40. I find it easy if you follow the FSM. My favorite "makes me smile" moment happened recently while troubleshooting the engine temperature sender. I think of this as a 1960s engineer sending me a message from the past.
- Get organized, figure out the goal for the next month (or two).
- Make a list of what you need to get there. In my case the goal was passing the inspection. The list came from the Texas Vehicle Code.
- Work one problem at a time while you order the parts for the next problem. Having a steady supply of parts rolling in kept me productive on the weekends.
In getting to this momentous point, I have:
- Replaced the fuel tank and all fuel lines
- Replaced the rear brakes and brake lines
- Replaced the master cylinder
- Re-soldered and fixed the backup switch and lights
- Rewired the rear blinkers
- Replaced and rewired the rear marker lights
- Rewired the front turn signals
- Repaired the horns (makes me smile every time I honk and hear the lovely "chord" it plays.)
- Manufactured horn button springs
- Rebuilt the replacement Rochester carb
- Rebuild the rear lift struts
- Restored the license plate frame
I plan to write up or add to existing threads some of the additional stuff I have learned along the way, like testing circuits. Seems like a lot of folks struggle with the electrical component of working on an FJ40. I find it easy if you follow the FSM. My favorite "makes me smile" moment happened recently while troubleshooting the engine temperature sender. I think of this as a 1960s engineer sending me a message from the past.
