Builds My first '40 and the venture (11 Viewers)

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Hindsight being as it is. If I were to do it again, I'd just buy a new rear 70 axle assembly. Cheaper to cut and weld a couple of spring pads than rebuild a roached semi float and upgrade the brakes.
I can't believe nobody sells replacement shafts either.

Still would need the air locker and for me gears though, unless you want to keep the electric one.
 
Hindsight being as it is. If I were to do it again, I'd just buy a new rear 70 axle assembly. Cheaper to cut and weld a couple of spring pads than rebuild a roached semi float and upgrade the brakes.
I can't believe nobody sells replacement shafts either.

Still would need the air locker and for me gears though, unless you want to keep the electric one.
70 axle was also discussed for a bit, I can’t remember all the pro/cons we tossed around. Some of it was speed/time to get in and out. (Basically June 4-14 is my remaining time availability to prepare for SAS. Will do a valve adjustment and things like that between work trips in July as that is small)

When I called CruiserTEQ, they said the aftermarket they used to sell would break and they stopped selling an inferior product and could not recommend anything short of a used set, or swap axles.

I had a lead on a new set in Japan, but that would be more time delays. So I dropped that idea like a bad habit.
 
Biggest pro is not being able to find new axle shafts and c clip shafts not being desirable to me. Another being the FJ40 rear drums are just dumb in my opinion as is the tcase mounted parking brake. I still haven't tackled the parking brake on mine, but it's in the drums now.

Negative is cutting brackets off a brand new housing, setting pinion angle, welding on new spring pads, and touching up or repainting the housing.
 
I did sneak a small bit of "to do" stuff... (getting ready for an estate sale next weekend has taken priority). Hoping to get some time later this week to address the rear axle and diff, and whatever else is low hanging fruit before SAS.

Basically the dash pad - Will have a pict of old vs New as last picture - the retainer was rusty (the rust under the windshield was documented several pages -and year ago). At the time of disassembly, I thought last summer maybe powder coat the retainer and other stuff might help keep it for the long haul - so was blasted and coated black -

Got OEM screws - the new pad doesn't not come with the light cut out - just generally marked where...

Starting lineup... (powdered retainer in the cellophane wrap)
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san cutout...
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and progress.
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Sure sure if I will install it for SAS or not.

Also spent time taking pictures of spare parts I am thinking of parting with (fenders, ambulance doors, seat belts, etc). Will see
 
Also spent time taking pictures of spare parts I am thinking of parting with (fenders, ambulance doors, seat belts, etc). Will see


Call me before you do something I'll regret. 😆

I might be interested in some stuff.
Since I'm almost done hemorrhaging money that could be used to help secure my financial future on the current vehicle, I'm thinking about another rig on a Roadster Shop Chassis.....
 
There is a rather tedious way that I have found for looking up and ordering OEM parts from Toyota. I use this site: Toyota parts catalog - https://toyota-usa.epc-data.com It has detailed parts diagrams to look up part numbers. With the part number in hand, I then go to a domestic Toyota dealer with an online parts website. (I like this one Lithia Toyota Parts | OEM Toyota Parts & Accessories | Manufacturer Warranty - https://www.lithiatoyotaparts.com/) It has worked okay thus far, but shipping costs are ridiculous.
Nice tip, Thank you sharing.
 
Call me before you do something I'll regret. 😆

I might be interested in some stuff.
Since I'm almost done hemorrhaging money that could be used to help secure my financial future on the current vehicle, I'm thinking about another rig on a Roadster Shop Chassis.....
I'll text ya some snaps - and/or you can see it when you flop here on way to SAS
 
Since I'm almost done hemorrhaging money
That seems like a far off dream for me. I can't remember who said it is a disease, but they are correct. "If I only do this, then it will be...done/good/etc." The lies we tell ourselves. I guess I'd rather do this than say(lie) "I'm special."

In hindsight, I am doing this all wrong for sequence, timing, and best use of $$. As I said before with the engine (laughing hysterically naturally)... why do it once if you can do it twice? And in seriousness, this is a fun journey for me too, despite the mistakes and costs. Thanks for all who chime in and help put some bumper up while I try to bowl.

Thanks for reading & Sorry for the rant. Good Bourbon Manhattan!
 
The lies we tell ourselves.


It's like any serious capital outlay. You reach a point where the really expensive sit has been handled. It's just figuring out how to be creative after spending so much to push it to the finish line.

Similar to owning a house. Doesn't matter what you do, there will be continuing costs, even if you build a new one. In a few years the paint starts failing, the water heater needs an ignitor, that fricking gutter that leaks. Etcetera.
 
Here is another item on the to-do list...

With the flip kit - the distance to the bump stop is greatly reduced. Now I am not doing a Rubicon or anything like that, but that mess in SD that Karl @sogncab showed on his thread & invited me to is now booked next year.

The solution: I got some aftermarket stops from City Racer and going to trim these vs cut the OEM to regain the height lost with the flip kit.
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Here is a shot of an OEM with the Racer parts...
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Russ returned from vaca, and able to work and get Yellr closer to getting off the lift.

With the bump stops above - ended up measuring the distance lost due to flip kit and adjust the bump stop. The passenger side is the most distance (Yellow arrow in pict is roughly what was measured and used). Picts are some before, during/after for front, rear same.
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Front bump stops trimmed (back is original - middle is driver, closes is passenger side).
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after
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Other items - rear axle housing painted, new studs installed front and back for diff. Backing plates and rear brake drums blasted & painted and rear brakes installed. New rear breather hose. Painted TRE, set toe (will do steering wheel alignment when lowered). Rear spring and shocks are on and rear flip kit installed. All new break lines on, new brake booster, new clutch slave, new SS clutch line, bled clutch. Front propeller shaft installed with new hardware. Rear shaft has new u-joints, wire wheeled and painted. Diff housing prepared and painted.

The diff was giving a good fight with the preload. The plate washer for the pinion is discontinued - and using the old one and shims could never get the preload right (all permutations were explored). Russ ended up machining a new plate washer Friday and boom. In spec.

Random picts....
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propeller shaft with new hardware
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New SS brake and clutch lines..
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rear brakes...
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Ready for the diff to be installed soon - and will be ready for axles - and wrap it up for this effort.
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Still some more things to do before SAS - small - adjust valves etc. Will discuss the doors soon too and get update on that.
 
Good to see mark has extra axles. I need one for my rig as well. It was about like your less bad one.

Keep up the great work. Everything is looking great
Thanks - this has been a bigger job than I realized and credit goes to Russ @solomrus and Sam - they are teaching me a lot and having me do work too. Had I done all this as a shade-tree mechanic (thinking Col Mustard, under the tree, with a wrench), I would have been up a creek with lack of proper tools and triple the time needed to solve the issues along the way. For me, it has been the best of several worlds, I get to do stuff and cut my teeth and learn about the rig, and capitalize on Russ's attention to details that ended up mattering.

As the great Ron Swanson says in Parks & Rec, don't half-ass it, whole ass it.

And I am off for a scheduled vacation, will see what happens while gone - the bulk is done, just some finishing touches and vetting out any small gremlins from all this work. (IE, not that the leaks are fixed, how and what are those impacts - lean drop carb etc).
 

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