Builds My first '40 and the venture (3 Viewers)

[Green Bean]

Basically yes, not unheard of for the gas (corn gas) now to take a toll on the carb - I will make some time to look for the threads he posted about it

So, around here anyway, more-and-more stations are carrying ethanol-free gas ranging between 90-93% octane. Sure, it costs a bit more, but I figure it's probably worth it if it avoids mechanical issues. I also pour in about a half can of Seafoam each fill-up. Probably snake oil but so far everything has been fine running a OEM carb rebuilt by Mark (@65swb45) about 3 years ago.

 

[RevISK]

So, around here anyway, more-and-more stations are carrying ethanol-free gas ranging between 90-93% octane. Sure, it costs a bit more, but I figure it's probably worth it if it avoids mechanical issues. I also pour in about a half can of Seafoam each fill-up. Probably snake oil but so far everything has been fine running a OEM carb rebuilt by Mark (@65swb45) about 3 years ago.

I don’t think seafoam is snake oil, it works wonders on all my carbureted things.

I discovered this app recently: Pure Gas - https://apps.apple.com/us/app/pure-gas/id454559068

 

[solomrus]

bueno. noted.

was there a discussion of wear on the shafts or in the carb body?

 

[Chungas Revenge]

I don’t think seafoam is snake oil, it works wonders on all my carbureted things.

Elvis would have used it..It’s the real deal.

 

[RevISK]

I don’t think seafoam is snake oil, it works wonders on all my carbureted things.

I discovered this app recently: Pure Gas - https://apps.apple.com/us/app/pure-gas/id454559068

To give credit where credit is due I discovered the app from another thread via @GA Architect. Just mumembered.

 

[OlYellr]

bueno. noted.

was there a discussion of wear on the shafts or in the carb body?

No it was fuel related. I started to do some searching last night - I did see where people were installing new bushings for the shafts. I'll tell you about it when I get there later on - gots to do some work first.

 

[rfitzpatrick]

I mentioned a different issue I would post about, and now is the time.

I waited to post, because I wanted to talk to Mark (@65swb45) before I posted since he rebuilt the carb. I wanted him to know I am happy and glad he did. I am getting up-to 15 mpg with it and in no way wanting any hint of shade his way for his efforts. We had a great talk on Friday and we ended the call and I was more comfortable with posting having told him I have zero issues with his craft and having an opportunity for him to express concerns with me posting.

So before got Yellr on the lift, did a smoke test. Because after I did the lean drop on the carb (got the RPM closer to where I wanted idle) I wasn't getting the vacuum (mentioned earlier post).

The smoke test highlighted a big manifold leak where the union is below the carb. Addressed that and resolved, BUT 3 new leaks showed up with the carb itself. Both primary and secondary shaft and at what I think is called the slow cutoff. Also bubbling (fuel) with the secondary).

In summary, Mark and I talked about how the gas has changed over the years (additives, corn-based, etc). He said he has seen over the years the gas creates pitting in the carb etc, leading to leaks along the shafts etc. There are some threads on MUD about gas and carbs (have not made time to find them).

Separate topic but mentioning MPG reminded me of something...
Ian (@RevISK) - it occurred to me after our recording of Dan's (@mtn biker) podcast we did Friday night, about different speeds between the odometer vs gps - a possible answer - easy to think being off by constant mph (I.E. off by 5 mph), but how about off by a constant % - so the faster you go, the more off you are with the GPS. (10% of 20 mph is 2 mph - 10% off of 60 is 6 mph). I don't know, maybe.

Here is the video of the various leaking chasing down the best vacuum. Will resume that rabbit, to a degree, after all the other work is done I'm posting about.

I think I have a similar issue. I just rebuilt my carb and have a leak out of the throttle plate pivot shaft. Is this similar to what you're experiencing?

 

[OlYellr]

I think I have a similar issue. I just rebuilt my carb and have a leak out of the throttle plate pivot shaft. Is this similar to what you're experiencing?
View attachment 3630861

It is similar and - from what I can remember (Friday was a long time ago and ended the day with some beverages) - I believe he said gas can come from an over full fuel bowl - the mechanical pump have a valve preventing fuel going backward so only place to relieve pressure is filler' up, spill over some, and loose/warn shaft good place to leak. This from a non-professional, very green FJ40 owner. I will be researching and discussing this more and if nothing more than just the knowledge.

 

[rfitzpatrick]

It is similar and - from what I can remember (Friday was a long time ago and ended the day with some beverages) - I believe he said gas can come from an over full fuel bowl - the mechanical pump have a valve preventing fuel going backward so only place to relieve pressure is filler' up, spill over some, and loose/warn shaft good place to leak. This from a non-professional, very green FJ40 owner. I will be researching and discussing this more and if nothing more than just the knowledge.

I've heard similar comments regarding my leak. It sound like mine might be over filling. My gas is over half way up the sight glass. I'm going to adjust my float to see if that helps. I also saw another poster use a .010 shim stock to make a waster behind the c-clip and that helped out also.

 

[OlYellr]

some more updates.... replacing the bush on the spindles - hard to remove, press handled rest..

Also a couple shot of the u-bolts - someone made a comment to me that the pict earlier had one not done/slanted. All is well.

Spindle stuff...

and

and new

picts of the u-bolts completed. Passenger side..

driver side

 

[OlYellr]

Also - cleaning up the hubs - pressed out wheel studs, removed the hub studs too with a cool Snapon tool I had not seen before.

Wheel hub...

and hub studs...

Wire wheel - then prepped for painting. no picts but it did happen.

 

[OlYellr]

Got new knuckle studs - the front propeller shaft is ready -

propeller shaft ready to bolt back on ..

 

[RevISK]

Dang.
You are making Yellr a tight as$ rig.

 

[OlYellr]

Got the diff back on then started to clean the birfs - They are ok and going to rotate sides if Toyota gets the 2 shaft rings tomorrow.

Then from there start putting the front together and do the brake lines after.

Just an observation... I got Overland Metric for the diff cover washer bolts not OEM - before I went wild on OEM as much as possible. The spring washer got toasted torquing to 34 ft-lbs with the diff to axle housing. It is a softer material apparently - so far only one bit the dust - Not saying don't get, just be aware of a potential and don't throw your old stuff.

and

Hulk smash...

 

[OlYellr]

Dang.
You are making Yellr a tight as$ rig.

Following your lead... I am going to figure out the Carb Cooling fan after you do with Paul.

 

[OlYellr]

The chronicle continued yesterday.... Got the OEM knuckle gasket kit (See pict) - at first look when I got it, had felts rubber, some metal seals etc. But on closer inspection yesterday, the metal rings that go on the axle with the felts & rubber.... MIA - So could not assemble - (on other part missing too) the parts pict makes you think all is well. Just saying so if you get that too, what you get and what you don't.

In talking with Russ @solomrus on options - could use old ones and make it work, came too far to do that and quick call to Kurt @cruiseroutfit (Actually my go to is Jason) to order some stuff and arrives today. Aces as always with CruiserTEQ.

Got the studs on the hubs and installed bearings (put them in freezer and heated the hubs) packed with grease. Should be ready to go today when the parts arrive.

Break lines going on - I got them from Classic Tube - so far good fit. The hardline from front to back was a little bit too long (less than an 2.54 cm). Quick adjustment and all it good.

Hubs pict 1

Hubs pict 2

Brake lines.

Brake pict 2

 

[OlYellr]

With the front on hold with the exception of break line and shocks installation - got one on, move to the rear.

Drained the rear diff and started to take things apart. Will show some picts - one side was wet on the inside the other dry and rusted on.

But the big news was the axle shafts... See picts - too much galling - they would make noise even if I did the bearings. So that was a unexpected surprise. Spent some time taking an axle apart Russ had - no go, was like trying to flush an outhouse. Called CruiserTEQ too. They said the don't carry semi-float because the aftermarket the were selling all would break so they don't carry junk. Called Classic Cruiser, explained what is wrong with mine, they have two and sending them hopefully today.

Galling 1 (leaking side - Driver side)

Galling 2

Misc shots of my rear...

more

And finally

 

[Green Bean]

Nice work and great write-up. So, I am guessing that your rear axles don’t have removable races? I know Toyota changed but forget what year.

 

[OlYellr]

Nice work and great write-up. So, I am guessing that your rear axles don’t have removable races? I know Toyota changed but forget what year.

Unsure - that would make sense - was trying to remove and was difficult, then decided to try and take apart spare axle Russ had as it would determine if had some axles locally now or need to source and get them later.

Will put that detail up here too once known. Thanks, I didn't know that.

 

[Green Bean]

Quick glance at Toyota EPC shows that there was a part change to the rear axle bearing in 08/1973, so my guess is that is when they got away from the removable race, but that is just a guess. The 40 Channel has a nice vid showing R&R of axle race.