Builds My first '40 and the venture (16 Viewers)

[OlYellr]

And finally...

Been smelling gas ... even as I drive very noticeable. I could smell some too in the engine bay from time to time.

Decided to do something different. Investing vs just ask... First recommendation I found was gas cap... Took it off today, made a small hiss - thought that was normal - looked at rubber gasket - some cracks - getting new one now. Reinstalled the gas cap...

Then I decided that I will do my first ever lean drop on the carb. When I first got the engine going, and driving some, it would stall at stops after 20 minutes. My solution was to bump the idle just a bit as the consistency made me think brake booster and/or check valve. That tweak of the carb worked, rpm up a bit, but not offensive to a tractor.

Anyway - time to reset (and learn, and get confused, and now remember how much I appreciate beer) the idle. In someways I was not wanting to do this since I was getting good mpg...

Got the vacuum on, used the tach off the timing light and away I went. Reset mixture to 1.5 turns out - took a few moments to get it to idle post mixture adjustment - had to use choke to get the idle screw right (sped up) so it didn't die when choke was off.

Then away I went. My experience was not like that video from OTRAMM - things moved in the general direction of up or down.

At one point, the difference between 725 rpm and 500 rpm was not even the smallest of bumps on the idle... That was maddening sometimes. No maddening always.

The rpms are lower but so is the vacuum than when I started. Not sure what I traded. I forgot to get the base RPM before I started. Was at 17-18 HG with the vac - now 15. RPM is about 730 and I know was higher - mid 900 or so by the sounds). Down but higher than I was hoping for when I started.

I drove it some. Didn't do poorly at all. Will drive and try this again. (Edited post - forgot to say no gas smell)

Made a video of it - but really boring - so won't post that.

Yet..... Get back from driving around and now hear gas burping after I shut Yellr off. Did make a video of that. This is different. See what happens when you change too many things at once - should have stopped at the gas cap and called it.

Short video - can hear the gas burping in the tank when I put phone underneath. Then I take the gas cap off.



I haven't heard that kind of pressure since the last time my friends and I binged at Taco Bell.

 

[Green Bean]

Probably a dumb question...did you set your timing before doing the lean drop?

 

[OlYellr]

Probably a dumb question...did you set your timing before doing the lean drop?

Not dumb, it was at 7 before I started yesterday.

I'm also thinking of checking the valves too. been 6 months since last done. Over time, if I can't get my vacuum back up, will get a smoke test to help find leaks.

I'm also looking into possible venting with charcoal canister etc. Check valves - that whoosh was way different than before. I want to address it since pressure and boiling points change with elevation - and don't want to be FUBARed first day of SAS with pressure problems.

Getting one more good day before storms start - so will work on more clean-up etc - trying to get everything prepped and ready for when the real work starts (found a leak with TC yesterday too) - basically when the axles, driveline, etc come off, want to paint etc - there is a lot of grease over the years caked on etc.

Also will get some penetrating oil going to give it time. will post some pics of what I have and will do as I get ready for suspension work.

 

[Green Bean]

Painting is terrible. Painting while laying flat on your back is worse. A few weeks ago, I tackled some POR15 on the frame. I do believe that I got more on me than on the frame. It scrubs right off with a few layers of skin.

 

[OlYellr]

Painting is terrible. Painting while laying flat on your back is worse. A few weeks ago, I tackled some POR15 on the frame. I do believe that I got more on me than on the frame. It scrubs right off with a few layers of skin.

That is what I am getting ready for - sandpaper to help exfoliate?

To enhance the experience, maybe wait unit 100 out and humidity is around 90% -

 

[Green Bean]

I went at ours with a 4-1/2" flap disc on an angle grinder. Followed by POR degreaser/cleaner, followed by POR Metal Prep. 2 coats of POR15 applied with a brush followed by POR 2 part top coat. I've seen some folks that use a pneumatic needle scaler which looks pretty cool.

 

[OlYellr]

I went at ours with a 4-1/2" flap disc on an angle grinder. Followed by POR degreaser/cleaner, followed by POR Metal Prep. 2 coats of POR15 applied with a brush followed by POR 2 part top coat. I've seen some folks that use a pneumatic needle scaler which looks pretty cool.

you take it to bare metal anywhere you can - or just grind rust areas and POR over everything -

 

[greenEFSI]

And finally...

Been smelling gas ... even as I drive very noticeable. I could smell some too in the engine bay from time to time.

Decided to do something different. Investing vs just ask... First recommendation I found was gas cap... Took it off today, made a small hiss - thought that was normal - looked at rubber gasket - some cracks - getting new one now. Reinstalled the gas cap...

Then I decided that I will do my first ever lean drop on the carb. When I first got the engine going, and driving some, it would stall at stops after 20 minutes. My solution was to bump the idle just a bit as the consistency made me think brake booster and/or check valve. That tweak of the carb worked, rpm up a bit, but not offensive to a tractor.

Anyway - time to reset (and learn, and get confused, and now remember how much I appreciate beer) the idle. In someways I was not wanting to do this since I was getting good mpg...

Got the vacuum on, used the tach off the timing light and away I went. Reset mixture to 1.5 turns out - took a few moments to get it to idle post mixture adjustment - had to use choke to get the idle screw right (sped up) so it didn't die when choke was off.

Then away I went. My experience was not like that video from OTRAMM - things moved in the general direction of up or down.

At one point, the difference between 725 rpm and 500 rpm was not even the smallest of bumps on the idle... That was maddening sometimes. No maddening always.

The rpms are lower but so is the vacuum than when I started. Not sure what I traded. I forgot to get the base RPM before I started. Was at 17-18 HG with the vac - now 15. RPM is about 730 and I know was higher - mid 900 or so by the sounds). Down but higher than I was hoping for when I started.

I drove it some. Didn't do poorly at all. Will drive and try this again. (Edited post - forgot to say no gas smell)

Made a video of it - but really boring - so won't post that.

Yet..... Get back from driving around and now hear gas burping after I shut Yellr off. Did make a video of that. This is different. See what happens when you change too many things at once - should have stopped at the gas cap and called it.

Short video - can hear the gas burping in the tank when I put phone underneath. Then I take the gas cap off.



I haven't heard that kind of pressure since the last time my friends and I binged at Taco Bell.

I had that crazy woosh sound when opening the tank after driving. Ordered a new oem cap and the problem went away. Does that cap have a vent on it? They are supposed to let air in through a check valve.

 

[Green Bean]

you take it to bare metal anywhere you can - or just grind rust areas and POR over everything -

In our case, there were areas on the frame where the old POR15 was flaking off. As it turned out large areas just peeled off. I took it down to bare metal and went as far as needed to get to where I felt there was goo adhesion of the existing. Fortunately, it was confined to the main frame rails between the wheels.

 

[mtn biker]

I took it down to bare metal and went as far as needed to get to where I felt there was goo adhesion of the existing.

for some reason slimmer from ghost busters came to mind

 

[OlYellr]

I had that crazy woosh sound when opening the tank after driving. Ordered a new oem cap and the problem went away. Does that cap have a vent on it? They are supposed to let air in through a check valve.

Thanks! - I thought I could just get new seal for cap - will see if that works - else new cap.

will look for a vent - didn't think about that.

 

[OlYellr]

for some reason slimmer from ghost busters came to mind

In these parts, we don't call it slime, we call it Fluid Film

 

[OlYellr]

I had that crazy woosh sound when opening the tank after driving. Ordered a new oem cap and the problem went away. Does that cap have a vent on it? They are supposed to let air in through a check valve.

@greenEFSI, thanks for this! I never paid much attention the the plain cap on Yellr 'til your post - turns out it does have a vent but it isn't OEM... So I looked a new cap up and noticed where I get parts from time to time is having 25% discount on parts plus free shipping over $75.

link for 25% off until Friday.... Genuine Toyota Parts and Accessories: Official Online Store Serra Toyota of Decatur - https://autoparts.toyotaofdecatur.com/

Stocking up Karl! Bryan is back! - Ian, talking some sense into me... yeah that didn't last.

 

[OlYellr]

Update pict for the Eastwood rust gel.

This is about 24 hours later - wiped some gel off and assessing. My impressions - if you have a large flat area and don't have a sandblaster, maybe an angle grinder like @Green Bean mentioned earlier.

I think the time to soak, wipe, re-soak the parts, (I will re-soak after) would be a wash in time for this skid plate compared to just grind it off - smaller, hard to reach areas, use this Eastwood gel.

 

[OlYellr]

Here is an area for penetrating oil.

As I am getting closer to really getting serious, I'm still scouting for smaller details to get all parts and/or prepped for painting, etc.

The bumper stops in the rear are... well they aren't.

I think I'm going to take the brackets off and clean them up nice and take time to clean the frame where the brackets are as well.

Here is the driver rear spring bumper...

and here is the passenger rear spring bumper...

 

[RevISK]

Here is an area for penetrating oil.

As I am getting closer to really getting serious, I'm still scouting for smaller details to get all parts and/or prepped for painting, etc.

The bumper stops in the rear are... well they aren't.

I think I'm going to take the brackets off and clean them up nice and take time to clean the frame where the brackets are as well.

Here is the driver rear spring bumper...
View attachment 3608155

and here is the passenger rear spring bumper...

View attachment 3608159

Interesting. Mine has the rubber bump stops but they are raised (as it were). My guess is to address the lift. Fortunately the PO of my 40 was good at doing things right (or paying the right people), as evidenced by the Oil Galley Plug fix and a few other items.

Were those spring contraptions a thing?-

 

[OlYellr]

Got the spring bumper brackets off - all bolts broke - Did manage to get them all out of the frame - going to clean up the frame etc around there before brackets go on.

3 of the 4 bolts sheared too with the bumper and brackets - so drilling those out now.

After those are drilled out, will clean/blast and then make it purdy.

And

What a real bumper looks like…

 

[OlYellr]

Anybody want to buy a 40? Know the owner. It's an anti-@Chungas Revenge motif. More “Adult Legos".

Runs great - owner is a mechanic and had it for years - clean title. Doesn't want the title to be sold to ICON - good trail rig...

 

[OlYellr]

And lastly for a while... stopped by Chem Dip since in the big city today... Doors are done the kick vents and braces are not done. They told me my doors are bowed. I told them I was surprised. (They don't get my sarcasm) ... so they showed me. picts below.

- All will be done tomorrow - will put some primer on to prevent rust then start in on them - also will fix pin holes in door from rust. Bought a door patch from CCOT - Ian says I should just bite the bullet and weld. I suspect I will be good at grinding.

Thinking of how I want to take this on. I don't need perfect - actually don't want perfect, just ability to roll window up and down without such strain that the window crank breaks (yes that has happened). Maybe one of those bladders and put it inside door heat metal, expand bladder. Then the straight edge inside to see if aligns and not bind the regulator. (or wood inside door and beat it straighter?? Not sure yet). Might research to see what they should look like brand new from a bow perspective so I know vs assume they came perfectly straight. It does look like the PO did some door work before.

 

[RevISK]

how many arrows do you have in your quiver?
I ask since you’ve already got quite the bow (drum roll please…)