Builds My Current Build-up (billy bad-ass)

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i may be preaching to the tube gods here. and take no affense to this but i used .125 wall dom to build my cage. i have see guys use much thicker on links and sleeve it and bend the heck out of them. i used 2" od 3/8" wall dom on my lowers and 1 1/2" od 1/4" wall dom on my uppers. some people might say that is overkill but i say just right. nothing like your axle falling off.
 
actionjackson said:
Now I've got an idea for my next project :D How much seperation are you going to have between that upper link and your lower arms? Nice work :cool:
Click to expand...



I want to say it's around 7~8~ I'll measure tonight. Let me give it a good thrashing, then I'll give you some ideas on weak links. I am really digging the LONG lower links though.

dacicci said:
i may be preaching to the tube gods here. and take no affense to this but i used .125 wall dom to build my cage. i have see guys use much thicker on links and sleeve it and bend the heck out of them. i used 2" od 3/8" wall dom on my lowers and 1 1/2" od 1/4" wall dom on my uppers. some people might say that is overkill but i say just right. nothing like your axle falling off.
Click to expand...

I'm pretty sure my cage will be stout enough to handle most anything I can throw at it. I am going to beef up my upper link so I don't have to worry about it doin' the twist on me.


AS ALWAYS THANKS FOR THE COMMENTS! GOOD OR BAD I LIKE HEARING RESPONSES! :cheers:

Back to the shop!
 
UNBREAKABLE said:
I want to say it's around 7~8~ I'll measure tonight. Let me give it a good thrashing, then I'll give you some ideas on weak links. I am really digging the LONG lower links though.



I'm pretty sure my cage will be stout enough to handle most anything I can throw at it. I am going to beef up my upper link so I don't have to worry about it doin' the twist on me.


AS ALWAYS THANKS FOR THE COMMENTS! GOOD OR BAD I LIKE HEARING RESPONSES! :cheers:

Back to the shop!
Click to expand...


what i mean is that i think the tube you are using for your links is to thin. i have seen alot of people sleeve thinner tubeing and it still bends. but to each his own i just hate to see you do all that good work just to have you bend a bar.
 
dacicci said:
what i mean is that i think the tube you are using for your links is to thin. i have seen alot of people sleeve thinner tubeing and it still bends. but to each his own i just hate to see you do all that good work just to have you bend a bar.
Click to expand...
The tubing is a bit on the thin side IMHO but it is the bends in the tubing that really has me worried. I would use stronger materials..

Bending links on the trail Sucks... A lot..
 
Mace said:
The tubing is a bit on the thin side IMHO but it is the bends in the tubing that really has me worried. I would use stronger materials..

Bending links on the trail Sucks... A lot..
Click to expand...


i have seen a couple of 4 links with the uppers with bends but they used 1/4 wall dom. now thats some stuff to bend tuff on the bender and your back. i guess it is ok the ones i saw were on comp guys rigs. i would not want to trust it. depending on were you bend the link you are just asking for it to bend more with the rock abuse. woody sleeved his and bent a tube, fryman bent a tube i do not now exactly what tube they used woody told me once but i forgot. i know steel is expensive but i only paid $100 for the steel to do my rear links and i had enough left for a spare pole for each and i bought the thick stuff in dom. nothing worse than changing a bar in the thick of things that is if you have a spare. and it is not like anyone else is going to have a spare for you. and if it bends to much or god forbid it breaks than you have real problems, broke driveshaft ring & pinion, locker axle shaft yada , yada yada. been their done that with a snaped leaf spring thats a trip ender.
 
Typiaclly people bend lower links from lateral forces due to rocks. Upper links are typically in extension and do not buckle easily, making them 2" OD helps a lot as well. The larger the diameter of the tubign the harder it is to bend. That being said, when you start a bend in a material it is a LOT easier to bend later on.

My fromt upper is 2" x.250 wall chromo and has a clearance bend in it. I am still a bit concerned about it bending..
 
UNBREAKABLE said:
my lowers are made from VERY, VERY THICK tubing (I'm gonna go and pick up some more)

I believe I will sleeve it and I also havent gusseted it yet/
Click to expand...
It is your wishbone that concerns me.
 
Mace said:
It is your wishbone that concerns me.
Click to expand...


Like I said...I haven't had time to gusset it yet. I am confident that once it is braced it will be hard to bend. BUT if I do bend it, I have some tubing that I will use to rebuild it.



I'll post pics of my new tubing tomorrow

2"x.50" wall! Hydraulic Cylinder Tubing(basically it was solid tube that was drilled out)

This s*** is heavy! But it will be ideal for my lower links, gettin my weight low
 
UNBREAKABLE said:
Like I said...I haven't had time to gusset it yet. I am confident that once it is braced it will be hard to bend. BUT if I do bend it, I have some tubing that I will use to rebuild it.



I'll post pics of my new tubing tomorrow

2"x.50" wall! Hydraulic Cylinder Tubing(basically it was solid tube that was drilled out)

This s*** is heavy! But it will be ideal for my lower links, gettin my weight low
Click to expand...


cool those lowers take a beaten, good luck with your upper wishbone i hope it does not bend.
 
my lowers are 2" .500" wall chrome-moly and are 53" long with 102" wheelbase, full figured fj40.. i havent bent then yet... the only thing i have problems with is vertical ledges getting over the top... the rigs on the links and front tires, if there isnt enough traction to pull the rig up the links so the rear tires bite i get denied... other than that they have been great...

as far as your upper link gusset goes, id look at doing a flat steel plate inside the "U" and add speed holes... that should keep it from deflecting side to side...


oh yea, MORE PICS!!!


chris:cool:
 
Oh...BTW just returned home from Harlan,KY (PBB 2nd annual camp and crawl) I had a good time other than seeing my buddy go backwards down creampuff at speed with no breaks and a shattered t-case....and then he nearly ran over his dad(actually he did run him over but the truck just happened to clear him:eek:

there will be pics all over pirate

here is a link to where the pics and videos will be
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=456950&page=15

I am rockwelledtoyota on pirate
 
What ya know about that?
I got some new tubing for my rear lower links...MAN SIZE!
This isn't just any tube though...It was 2" solid that was BORED out!
2" x 0.50" wall!
Picture139.jpg

Picture141-1.jpg

Picture144.jpg

Picture143.jpg


here is my other tubing for the front links 1 3/4"x 3/8" wall
Picture145.jpg
 
I have started designing my front suspension. I have to take my rear lower links to the guy to get them threaded. I need to get some tubing so I can finish the rear up.


I have been considering using a 4.3 Vortec(late model) and a beef'd 700r4 into clocked dual t-cases. What y'all think?



Here are my reasons
1. The 4.3 is a durable engine.
2. The parts are readily available at most any parts house.
3. The parts are cheaper
4. Hop-up parts are cheaper
5. The 700R can be built to withstand some serious power
6. Automatic would help in the rocks
7. R151F's are hard to come by and expensive when you do

Disadvantages

1. I won't be "all toyota" like I wanted to
2. I'll be a "toylet"
3. 3.4L->R151F->23spline case->23spline 4.7= sick
 
the 4.3 is a nice engine .. nothing compared to 1FZ-FE but doing well :D but maybe you are more concernet about the weight and dimensions ..

And certanly for manual tranny you must need more crawl ratio, so you don't have the torque converter to help ..
 
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