My Cummins 6BT Story

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by turbophil, Jan 18, 2015.

  1. turbophil

    turbophil

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    Small update.... Went back to the TJM stiff springs in the rear. Axle to flare is not 24.5"... so what's that, 4" lift or so...

    Add 130mm urethane spaces from Man-a-free on the front. I probably did something wrong because I actually spent some time on the lathe with them as I couldn't get them to fit for anything... any no, they were not rear spacers! lol

    Front axle to flare is 24"... so again, about 4" lift or so. Springs are TJM stiff--- same as rear.

    Ordered some custom valved with external compression adjuster shocks from Radflo. Spoke with Glen about the setup. Seemed quite knowledgable. Supposed to get them in a couple weeks.

    Outside of that, I winched a friend's G-Wagon up the slab at KS Rocks. Interestingly, he was locked all 4 on 34" BFG ATs and didn't make it up for anything... I made it up WITHOUT my diff lock, so the rears were dead (muct have been a long night, as that was 1 button I forget to push). The video shows my fronts working their tails off the rears in idle, which makes sense... Nevertheless, with 35" BFG MTs, I still made it up. I was surprised. As much as I would like to say "80 Series Rules", I think the MT are just THAT-MUCH better than the ATs...

    Next I need to make some brake lines. On borrowed time with the stockers... and then some! yikes!

    -Phil

    PS- Still Loving the cummins 6BT power!!!
     
  2. turbophil

    turbophil

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    UPDATE: Radflow shocks and Steering... and Cooling...

    @cjmoon and I made some super tough connecting links that utilize 1 ton GM tie rod ends. We were careful space the link slightly higher than OE to where it would not hit the control arms or the front pinion. A bit of dance there, but we now have room for days and no clunky around of steering links hitting the control arms!

    I removed the front and rear sway bars. Installed RADFLOW front and rear shocks with remote rezzies and adjustable compression knobs. A couple grand later, the cruiser handles well. Sure it sways on a slalom course, but shouldn't it? :) It's very predictable on the highway at 80mph. It sets on a turn and just goes there. I picked the 3-5" lift shocks they offer and spoke with the owner to "custom valve" them for the add'l weight of the 6BT and gear. Overall, I'd say a good product. My only complaint is that they really skimped on the hose length for the rezzies. Finding a mounting point was tough.

    Used the CAT to make a dirt ramp out back and ran the suspension through its paces. I'm using the full 10" of shock travel in the rear. At full compression, I'm on the shock bumps and the rear tire is stuffed to sheetmetal. On the other side, the rear shock is at full droop. Not bad! The front is the front. lol. It doesn't wiggle too much in comparison...

    Of note, the stock radiator won't keep the engine cool when pulling a trailer. Looking at the core of this rad, it's pretty sad. Needs a good 3 row aluminum core, 50mm thick or so... Any good replacements out there?

    -Phil
     
  3. OLDTOYOMAN

    OLDTOYOMAN

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    Would a stock radiator out of a '94 do better? I heard those are the best ones stock...
     
  4. turbophil

    turbophil

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    Few pics...

    You can see that my slee rear bumper finds a lot of rocks. That thing takes a BEATING!

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  5. turbophil

    turbophil

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    Couple more... along with the connecting link... that won't bend... most likely :)

    BTW- 35" KM2s...

    ...Have a lot of clean up to do with new brake lines, hoses, wires, etc... Baby steps...

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  6. turbophil

    turbophil

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    I think I need a lot more cooling... Looking at the Ron Davis and delete the trans cooler/warmer from it for some more area and fewer calories to the cooling system...

    These turned up 6BTs create some fantastic heat with a trailer...
     
  7. scottryana

    scottryana

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    This was always my plan. Ron Davis without the trans warmer.

     
  8. turbophil

    turbophil

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    Went ahead and ordered the RD radiator without the trans component... was $9XX... 2-3 weeks out...

    -Phil
     
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  9. turbophil

    turbophil

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    Finally got around to rewiring the battery cables and terminals. I hated that there were 17 things stacked on the positive terminal from dusier. No more.

    Used 1/0 fine strand high flex cable. It’s welding cable. Overkill for such a short run. The winch cables are coming off the terminal bolts of course.

    I used 6ga fine strand cable for the positive accessory and chassis ground. Lucky to have a 20 ton tubing press with dies for all the fittings. If I ever sell this rig, I’ll be proud of what the new owner will get....

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  10. mickeyt

    mickeyt

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    What company is doing this type of install in USA that is reputable and cares about the craftsmanship such as yourself? What went in to choosing 6BT over other options?
     
  11. turbophil

    turbophil

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    There is none. Doubt there ever will be or a customer that would be willing to pay for it.

    Best bet is to build yourself or buy from someone that did it right and is just ready to move on.

    As car builder myself the dollars required to build one correctly and make it economically viable for the builder would be a bit insane.
     
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  12. cjmoon

    cjmoon

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    58672785-9106-4152-9FDD-49B32678BBCA.jpeg Doing some work for turbophil. His LX is slumming it in a 2 car.... track bar bushings, drag link tie rod ends, tightening loose hub bearings and steering box adjustment. 20k ish on new bearings since rebuild are now loose darn weight of cummins plus arb bumper weight. Lots of Offroad in the middle. it’s not a pavement princes
     
  13. cjmoon

    cjmoon

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    Wastegate ported and drilled through. Now you have controlled boost.
     
  14. cjmoon

    cjmoon

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    Wastegate ported and drilled through. Now you have controlled boost.

    21D4E8BA-503E-45E8-BB82-D6DFE3A122DD.jpeg
     
  15. cjmoon

    cjmoon

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    Meant to take more pics but my hands were to dirty. Rebuilt front calipers with Toyota rebuild kits and did an LSVP delete with new front and rear extended brake lines. Will have to take a picture tomorrow of the pile of parts removed. 2 pistons on the front left seized leaving a hard right hand pull. All fixed now 2C62DC6A-2553-43BB-8908-2ACFB052BF6C.jpeg B61C6C9D-7F77-4E3A-B769-4EFB26EDA1DA.jpeg
     
  16. turbophil

    turbophil

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    Put the LX on the dyno today... 215whp and 450wtq... assuming a 25% driveline loss with the big tires, etc, etc.... something like 280hp and 600tq as a factory would advertise (BHP)....

     
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  17. mryanangel

    mryanangel SILVER Star

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    Phil - Have you done much work to the fueling delivery on this motor or is it pretty stock?
     
  18. turbophil

    turbophil

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    Oh for sure. a stock 6BT won't run anything like that...

    Nothing fancy though. Just the standard springs and screw adjustments to push the fueling up higher.

    It's just a plain 'ol VE pumped motor with a 2nd gen dodge wastegated turbo and about $90 worth of springs and pin on the pump... 3" straight exhaust that dumps under the door with a couple small mufflers on it... It does 0-60 in something like 11 seconds as I recall. It's plenty fast and has same gear passing power on the highway at 80 for days...

    The 6BT is far from a perfect motor, but it's probably the best swap I've seen going for these rigs...

    -Phil
     
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  19. mryanangel

    mryanangel SILVER Star

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    I agree with you...I love my P-Pump'd 80. I have't yet put it on a Dyno, but plan to sometime this year. I have a few extra fueling mods and larger bowl pistons etc. so will be interested to see what she is putting out.
     
  20. Mr Cimarron

    Mr Cimarron DRIVE, BREAK, FIX, REPEAT SILVER Star

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    It’s on my list as well. Last I looked San Antonio was the closest dyno for me.
     
  21. mryanangel

    mryanangel SILVER Star

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    I am starting to consider compound turbo's and would likely take it down to Power Driven Diesel in southern UT for that...they have a nice Dyno there!
     
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