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In the middle of putting a roadrunner modified TC in and found the flex plate on turbo Phil’s rig is suffering the same fate as mine did.... cracks.
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I can’t like this. Sigh. What did they get the stall down to, approximately.
There is none. Doubt there ever will be or a customer that would be willing to pay for it.
Best bet is to build yourself or buy from someone that did it right and is just ready to move on.
As car builder myself the dollars required to build one correctly and make it economically viable for the builder would be a bit insane.
That is a weak link, that was changed when Dustin made some changes
I can’t like this. Sigh. What did they get the stall down to, approximately.
That’s funny when I contacted him to see if he could sell me a new one he said. It’s the first he had ever heard of such a failure....
Well. I’m making replacements now for how ever many of his first iteration users are out there if they fail I’ll make more changes. $200 flex plate is better than a whole new adapter
What flex plate are you using, I am using the stock Dodge flex plate, which one are you using
Dude we have covered this several times
I understand you have the newer style that uses more dodge parts and only a custom bellhousing. His early style used custom adapter plate on the engine stock Toyota bell housing with his own flexplate flywheel combo and a 6.7 ford starter.
He made the flex plate with a coining press and custom tooling that he told me he no longer has. But frankly wouldn’t want another with known issues. so I researched flex plates and designed my own to fit this adapter profile.
Thanks for your interest on the subject we know your truck is the cats meow getting. 30mpg with 1000hp pulling 100k lb big rigs out. (Hope you know this is sarcasm, but I would like to keep this more on subject)
So here are pictures of the set up
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A previous mechanic's lack of fastener knowledge finally caught up w/ me. To be fair, I knew I needed to replace this garbage, but too lazy to knock it out.
The axles were held in with button head stainless steel bolts. Hilarious anyone thought this was a good idea. Lack of any ability to clamp with such a chincy bolt finally killed the gasket and oil POURED out. Replaced with ARP 10mm head bolts. Need the small wrench size to deal with the wheels. Not a huge deal, but anyone wanting to run TRD wheels and 1" spacers need to know that you need a 10mm head. the 12mm head will hit the wheel lip in the bore....
-Phil
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Is this the part number which you used? 100-9908 ?A previous mechanic's lack of fastener knowledge finally caught up w/ me. To be fair, I knew I needed to replace this garbage, but too lazy to knock it out.
The axles were held in with button head stainless steel bolts. Hilarious anyone thought this was a good idea. Lack of any ability to clamp with such a chincy bolt finally killed the gasket and oil POURED out. Replaced with ARP 10mm head bolts. Need the small wrench size to deal with the wheels. Not a huge deal, but anyone wanting to run TRD wheels and 1" spacers need to know that you need a 10mm head. the 12mm head will hit the wheel lip in the bore....
-Phil
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This makes me happy. Expect to see any economy perks? I’d assume… but who knows until it’s done.for any one still watching this thread. the A343F is no more. 6L80 is in and being tuned. not much in the way of pictures. still finalizing little install details to finish it up. The PCS-2650 is so much nicer than the compushift.
Zero Gravity Performance built the trans. Marks 4x4 adapter to a 100 series t-case. the 100 series t-case is about 3" shorter due to no viscous coupler. that combined to the 6L80 being 3.25" longer meant the rear drive shaft was unchanged and the front has to be extended 3.25"