Solid work on the setup and thanks again for your order 
My Cummins 6BT Story (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter turbophil
- Start date
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I had the same issue with my rear discs. They kept binding on the parking brake on removal.
Ya I've had issues before too. The rotor seams stuck on the hub no movement. Too many other things to worry about. Rotors are in good shape and pads are 80%. The front was a different story so braking should be solid with the old rears that will be another day's project
These little details always take a lot of time. Checked the rear ARB air line everything looks good. Got the ARB wiring harness and switches in. Just need to mount the compressor. And torque the spacers and wheels on and we are road worthy.
I also got impatient with the OEM interior lights, and switched everything to LED.
- Thread starter
- #68
Drove her around a good bit last night. the 3.54 gears are just great! made a single adjustment on the trans controller and she was ready to rock and roll. 70mph at 2000 RPM is a dream and with a 6BT that can pull to 3500RPM, this is actually a fast machine that can get good fuel economy now while still way more power than needed at altitude. I was getting about 15mpg before. I bet I'm closer to 20 now on the highway. Looking forward to those 12,000 foot passes around Pitkin, CO!
CJ did a great job on the axles and ARBs. He used my shop, which has near everything a guy could want for the project, which is great when you're anal about the work like he and I are.
I'm on the wait list for a slee rear bumper.
In the meantime, off to paint. Pretty sure I just cannot live with black on a trail/street rig. First branch touches it and it's over with black. I'm thinking the same bright white like on my '14 Tundra or the pearl white like Lexus uses. The bright white will be easy to repair... the pearl not so much, so leaning to bright white...
Thoughts?
In case you're wondering, yes it's getting a bit spendy, but it's really coming together as a very nice truck. Even the wife will ride in it and that says a lot! lol
-Phil
CJ did a great job on the axles and ARBs. He used my shop, which has near everything a guy could want for the project, which is great when you're anal about the work like he and I are.
I'm on the wait list for a slee rear bumper.
In the meantime, off to paint. Pretty sure I just cannot live with black on a trail/street rig. First branch touches it and it's over with black. I'm thinking the same bright white like on my '14 Tundra or the pearl white like Lexus uses. The bright white will be easy to repair... the pearl not so much, so leaning to bright white...
Thoughts?
In case you're wondering, yes it's getting a bit spendy, but it's really coming together as a very nice truck. Even the wife will ride in it and that says a lot! lol
-Phil
go with traditional bright white the touch up part is what got me. i think the pearl gives a unique look at the lines which are classic on an 80, but i also know your planning on using it as a 4wd also so repaint is a strong possibility.
got some Dakota Digital interfaces ordered to get your speedy corrected with the new 25% off phenomenon occurring after 3.54 gears. just kidding it's just hard to look at the speedo reading 60 but actually 75 thats a big jump.
ordered the SGI-5E for you to correct the speed difference with the lower RPM cruise and ordered the DSL-1E for me to hopefully get the tach working. the tach worked when i had the OEM computer in the system so it must have conditioned the signal input. The DSL-1E has a high voltage output which sounds like it is specific to early Toyota. you probably have one of these as part of your diesel adapters kit originally installed. i had an early version with custom tone wheel on the flywheel before he realized it was an issue. looks like the new versions just used the alternator pick up and a USA build adapter/signal conditioner from Dakota Digital
got some Dakota Digital interfaces ordered to get your speedy corrected with the new 25% off phenomenon occurring after 3.54 gears. just kidding it's just hard to look at the speedo reading 60 but actually 75 thats a big jump.
ordered the SGI-5E for you to correct the speed difference with the lower RPM cruise and ordered the DSL-1E for me to hopefully get the tach working. the tach worked when i had the OEM computer in the system so it must have conditioned the signal input. The DSL-1E has a high voltage output which sounds like it is specific to early Toyota. you probably have one of these as part of your diesel adapters kit originally installed. i had an early version with custom tone wheel on the flywheel before he realized it was an issue. looks like the new versions just used the alternator pick up and a USA build adapter/signal conditioner from Dakota Digital
hamishpotter
SILVER Star
Is it me or does the ARB line routing seem pretty exposed / vulnerable. I know they're solid, quick activating and very popular, but I just don't understand the electric switch -> compressor & airline -> multiple seals through diff housing format. I almost pulled the trigger on Harrop E-lockers a while back based on this train of thought. Probably best for another thread but since you seem to have a lot of knowledge and experience thought I would chime in.
Great truck btw, and good job turning it around I spent too much time watching Duiser / Jonesy videos contemplating a swap and have been following the unfortunate soap opera.
Great truck btw, and good job turning it around I spent too much time watching Duiser / Jonesy videos contemplating a swap and have been following the unfortunate soap opera.
Are you talking about in the diff or external line running to it?
My thought is selectable lockers are not magic, you have to run some line/cable/wires to it. I have had OX/ARB/electrek from Detroit as well as spools, welded diff, and Detrois. Selectable is the only way to go in my book unless it's a dedicated 50/50 type vehicle
You have to protect what ever is running to the axle. For the ARB the line is flexible and you can route it with the brake lines or ABS wires. I figure you have bigger issues than the locker if you don't have brakes.
My thought is selectable lockers are not magic, you have to run some line/cable/wires to it. I have had OX/ARB/electrek from Detroit as well as spools, welded diff, and Detrois. Selectable is the only way to go in my book unless it's a dedicated 50/50 type vehicle
You have to protect what ever is running to the axle. For the ARB the line is flexible and you can route it with the brake lines or ABS wires. I figure you have bigger issues than the locker if you don't have brakes.
- Thread starter
- #72
Dropped her off at paint today...
I have a 2014 Tundra that's "Super White", so just went with that on the LX as well. Will be easy to remember that way. Should be easy to touch up if needed with no pearl or flake in the paint as well--- and importantly, it won't show dirt or scratches! (as I've learned with my Tundy)
Also had the blow out on the way to paint. First blow out I've had in like 20 years. Also never had no-name tires. Thanks Duiser. lol. Time to put some real rubber on the thing...
-Phil
I have a 2014 Tundra that's "Super White", so just went with that on the LX as well. Will be easy to remember that way. Should be easy to touch up if needed with no pearl or flake in the paint as well--- and importantly, it won't show dirt or scratches! (as I've learned with my Tundy
) Also had the blow out on the way to paint. First blow out I've had in like 20 years. Also never had no-name tires. Thanks Duiser. lol. Time to put some real rubber on the thing...
-Phil
- Thread starter
- #74
I think it may have been. Those tires were/are simply J U N K despite having a lot of tread. I learned a long time ago that there are places to never skimp on setup. Tires are one of them. They are the primary negotiator between the vehicle and the road. We can have the best suspension, brakes, and engine on the planet, but if the tires suck, none of that other stuff will matter. The original builder of this rig didn't know a lot of things, and that rule about not skimping on tires is just one more for the list.
With a new motor, axles, ARB diffs, tires, springs, and paint, the only thing left to complete this rig is the armrest and bumpers. I sent a PM to Tim this morning for the armrest and on the wait list for bumpers
-Phil
With a new motor, axles, ARB diffs, tires, springs, and paint, the only thing left to complete this rig is the armrest and bumpers. I sent a PM to Tim this morning for the armrest and on the wait list for bumpers
-Phil
- Thread starter
- #75
I think it may have been. Those tires were/are simply J U N K despite having a lot of tread. I learned a long time ago that there are places to never skimp on setup. Tires are one of them. They are the primary negotiator between the vehicle and the road. We can have the best suspension, brakes, and engine on the planet, but if the tires suck, none of that other stuff will matter. The original builder of this rig didn't know a lot of things, and that rule about not skimping on tires is just one more for the list.
With a new motor, axles, ARB diffs, tires, springs, and paint, the only thing left to complete this rig is the armrest and bumpers. I sent a PM to Tim this morning for the armrest and on the wait list for bumpers
-Phil
With a new motor, axles, ARB diffs, tires, springs, and paint, the only thing left to complete this rig is the armrest and bumpers. I sent a PM to Tim this morning for the armrest and on the wait list for bumpers
-Phil
- Thread starter
- #76
Checked her out at body... Pulled the roof racks and all body cladding... Not a peep of rust anywhere! Nice surprise. Smoothing out a couple shopping cart dings and then goes on the paint. Should be done near end of next week.
Need a decent dual purpose tire. So many options. Thinking maybe just the new BFG A/Ts... thoughts? Not too worried about a few bucks here or there. Just want good quality rubber for highway and trail...
-Phil
Need a decent dual purpose tire. So many options. Thinking maybe just the new BFG A/Ts... thoughts? Not too worried about a few bucks here or there. Just want good quality rubber for highway and trail...
-Phil
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Are you doing a full paint job including the door jams?
- Thread starter
- #78
Essentially, yes, but... Since it was black, we're leaving some jam/door areas black and will make those transitions seem natural... if it were red or something, I'd have to do it "the right way", jams, door, 'n all... but black is giving us some freedom to save a buck or two on the real time intensive areas... All cladding, trim, etc, is removed, and sanded down for 2014 Toyota "super white." Wet sand and polish on the final with a base-clear. Again, a bit spendy, but just assume have this look'n pretty right from the on-set...
-Phil
-Phil
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
MY 97 that is getting the fresh 6BT is already Monstalined Dark/Army Green, but my 92 is white, but could use a freshen up. I look forward to seeing how your tundra white comes out.
I was in KC this week, and met up with cjmoon (jess) for a couple drinks, dinner and to check out his 4BT. Really impressive drive. Especially with the different gears! I can only imagine what the 6BT drove like. I was hoping to see turbophils, but he picked a bad time to get it painted. Oh Well, I'll be back in KC in December, and it might be done by then!
Oh Well, I'll be back in KC in December, and it might be done by then!
