My '97 Maintenance and Transformation Thread

[dranven]

I'm making a thread to document the heavy maintenance and some transformations I will be doing to the Land Cruiser over the next month before a cross country trip.

First, the details on the cruiser.

1997
220,000 mi (as of now)
Poverty Pack (no third row, solid rear window, cloth int)

Here's how she looked when I first got her a few years ago.

I removed the front brush guard, rear taillight guards, and running boards. Then about a 18 months ago I came across a pretty built cruiser for a good price, so I bought it and started transferring all the parts to my '97. I transferred:

OME medium lift
33's
ARB front
Slee rear
Slee sliders

This is what it looked like at that time:

The sliders did not fit because my cruiser is a '97 and the one they came from was a '93. I ended up having a shop modify the exhaust to go over the frame so the sliders would fit (sorry, no photos).

 

[dranven]

Fast forward to now. The Land Cruiser has some leaks. Here's what I know:

Valve cover / spark plug seals
Pan arch OR rear main (unsure which one)
PSP
Timing cover
Trans cooler line(s)

I am going to be fixing those and since I am making a drive across the country, I am going to be doing the headgasket as PM. I consider myself about a guy, so this will be interesting. Again, the headgasket is PM. It's not showing signs of failure, but I don't want to risk it driving across the country.

I've got the forums here, the FSM, headgasket DVD (a local was nice enough to let me borrow his), and some wrenching help from my dad.

I think it needs axle maintenance as well. One step at a time...

 

[dranven]

First things first, I hated the factory roof rack. After deliberation about removing it and having the holes welded shut, I read some threads about dropping the headliner, which I didn't want to do, but I didn't really want to use body filler to fill the holes either. I consulted LandCruiserPhil, who gave me a great idea I am happy with.

I pulled off the factory rack (no trouble / no spinning nutserts) and noticed a little bit of rust forming only at the 4 locations where the factory rack is bolted (not the vertical rods that run against the body). I used a dremel with a fine wire wheel in an attempt to knock away the rust. I did pretty well - didn't seem to get it all, but I'm pleased with the result. I sanded, primed, and painted the areas. The rods running vertical along the body left a nasty adhesive, so I got that off with a rubber eraser wheel. Then I polished it up as best I could with by orbital polisher.

Now, keep in mind, I am not a professional, so the job isn't perfect, but it's good enough for me and hey - it's the roof.

I bought some stainless steel button head hex bolts, used some marine grade clear silicone seal on the threads, and screwed them in the holes. They are 5mm x 16mm and the pitch is 0.8.

Here's the result:

 

[dranven]

Now it's ready for the maintenance. I pulled off the front end for more room.

Then pulled the hood.

Now here we are tonight. I ran into trouble trying to pull off the egr valve as it requires an external torx socket to get the studs out, which I don't have. I only have regular torx. So, off to Sears tomorrow for a set, then it's back to work.

 

[up5799]

Thanks for documenting your work - I have an 97 LX and will be watching carefully. Considering your luck with the roof rack I'd say you're off to a great start.

 

[2 E L O]

Now it's ready for the maintenance. I pulled off the front end for more room.

Then pulled the hood.

Now here we are tonight. I ran into trouble trying to pull off the egr valve as it requires an external torx socket to get the studs out, which I don't have. I only have regular torx. So, off to Sears tomorrow for a set, then it's back to work.

I remember reading that a regular 6-point socket will usually work on the torx EGR valve studs. You may be able to do some searching and find the size...or just trial and error to find the size.

 

[rolliges]

A 5mm socket works on the EGR bolts.

 

[dranven]

I remember reading that a regular 6-point socket will usually work on the torx EGR valve studs. You may be able to do some searching and find the size...or just trial and error to find the size.

A 5mm socket works on the EGR bolts.

Thanks guys. I tried a 6 point socket, but the smallest I had was a 5.5mm. So, I went and bought a 5mm instead of an external torx set. $2.50 vs $30.

 

[dranven]

Moving right along. I took off the fan shroud, fan, fan clutch, belts, alternator and other related things. I went over to meet up with Tools R Us and Inkpot and give them my fan clutch. Tools R Us is going to give it a makeover.

After a big pain in the ass, I got the upper intake plenum off.

The first 5 bolts and 1 nut came off by me reaching from the top of the engine and a bit of patience. The 2nd nut and last bolt were quite a pain. It required this from under the engine:

 

[dranven]

I disconnected the connectors from the injectors and most of the plastic tabs are broken and the connector is just resting there, but not "locked" into place. Is this ok, or should something be done?

Also disconnected the fuel line bolted to the lower plenum that runs from the fuel rail to the fuel filter. I noticed the fuel filter was only being held in by one bolt, so someone was in there before. Is it advisable to replace the fuel filter? Seems like a pain to get to since I won't be removing the lower plenum, just pulling it off the head a little bit.

The rail came off with no problems.

Check this guy out:

Anyone know if new seals are included in the "headgasket kit"?


Lower plenum is really grimy, but it's not coming off, so I will clean it as best I can.

Also removed most of the rear heater hoses. So here's where I'm at now:

Exhaust manifold nuts are sitting with some kroil and will come off tomorrow.

Also, does anyone know if this bracket needs to come off for me to get the lower plenum out of the way? It looks like there won't be much clearance unless I take it off.

 

[GBinAZ]

Thats a ton of work to do in this heat, very impressive.

Unless they were previously done, are you doing the oil pump cover, front crank seal, and PHH while its all apart ?

 

[blkprj80]

That bracket by the intake was fairly easy to get out. Reach in through the lower fender flap to get to the bolt. Or i may have unbolted it from underneath, I don't recall which. Once out, there is a little more arm room.
That bracket definitely will be in the way if you slide the intake off the studs. I pulled my studs, no fun. It might be easier since you have the upper half of the intake removed.
Excellent work so far.
That injector o ring looks like hell. I have a set you can have that came with my rebuild kit. WitchHunter put new ones on so I don't need 'em. PM me if you want them.
Jim

 

[dranven]

Thats a ton of work to do in this heat, very impressive.

Unless they were previously done, are you doing the oil pump cover, front crank seal, and PHH while its all apart ?

I did the oil pump cover and crank seal about 15,000 mi ago, but since the front timing cover is coming off anyway, I will do them again. I haven't done the PHH and I'm not sure about any of the POs. I think it might be easier to get to once the head is out, so I will do it then. I have a PHH kit on hand.

That bracket by the intake was fairly easy to get out. Reach in through the lower fender flap to get to the bolt. Or i may have unbolted it from underneath, I don't recall which. Once out, there is a little more arm room.
That bracket definitely will be in the way if you slide the intake off the studs. I pulled my studs, no fun. It might be easier since you have the upper half of the intake removed.
Excellent work so far.
That injector o ring looks like hell. I have a set you can have that came with my rebuild kit. WitchHunter put new ones on so I don't need 'em. PM me if you want them.
Jim

Thanks. I will get that bracket out today. I should be getting my gasket kit next week, so I will see if those injector o rings are included. If not, I will take you up on your offer.

 

[dranven]

Sidebar: What is this stuff connected to the positive battery terminal?

 

[livinoffroad]

I pulled my studs, no fun. Jim

A stud tool makes things infinitely easier. This one is a 1/2" drive, with a couple different jaw capacities. It's by $$$$nap-On, but Craftsman prolly makes a decent one too. The cam shaped jaw style, can distort the stud out of round, that's why I like this style.
Now...back to the tear-down

 

[livinoffroad]

Sidebar: What is this stuff connected to the positive battery terminal?

Those are just fusible links (short protection).
They give no trouble.
Just put 'em back, when you go back together, and they won't give you any problem. At least I've never had any problem with needing to replace them.

 

[dranven]

Those are just fusible links (short protection).
They give no trouble.
Just put 'em back, when you go back together, and they won't give you any problem. At least I've never had any problem with needing to replace them.

Thank you sir.


Yes, back to the 'ing.

Ok, I removed the bracket I pictured above, which was connected to the block. I got to it from under the engine and here's the hole (for my reference when I put it back on):

Then, I removed the oil dipstick entirely and the trans dipstick bracket that connects to the lower intake plenum (again, for my reference when I put this stuff back together).

I removed the 10 bolts and 2 nuts for the lower intake plenum, which was a pain on the last ones near the egr hardpipe. After lots of dripping sweat, they came off. I zip tied the plenum away from the head.

I disconnected those 3 sensors.

Also disconnected the PHH and the line shown in the photo that connects from the head to the bottom of the throttle body. Can anyone tell me what this line is called?

Here's the PHH! After seeing how it all hooks up, I think I'm going to opt to do the PHH bypass rather than the traditional PHH replacement. Seems like it will be cleaner, removing that hardline.

That's it for tonight. I will get to the exhaust manifolds tomorrow, then start on the valve cover and see how deep I get.

 

[Kernal]

If you use a short section of Gates Green Stripe hose for the PHH (not the bypass) and constant torque clamps it should outlast the original. Great photos, good work.

 

[Rwhat]

Nice write up and pictures. Looks like someone removed those injectors before.

 

[geologic]

I'm in about the same shape, you've gone deeper by removing the lower intake and injector rail. Best photo of the phh I've ever seen. I'm not going to change the head gasket. Seems to have been done recently or never leaked. Plugs appeared to be original they were so burnt down. All powdery white. Timing chain and guide looked new. I have a 210 k truck but I think someone stuck a <100k motor in it. Had alot of numbers written on the crank pulley and the front cover.