Damn, your rig is looking great! I can't wait till I can do some of that heavy metal stuff on mine.
Keep up the good work!
Keep up the good work!
My '97 Maintenance and Transformation Thread
- Thread starter dranven
- Start date
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Great work and documentation.
- Thread starter
- #143
Thanks guys.
Ok, so now an issue has surfaced. Seems to have surfaced now that I redid my suspension. My setup is OME J lift with 2" metaltech spacers in the front.
I have some very bad "grrrrrr" noise upon decel from ~50-60mph. If I'm traveling slower and decel, the grrr doesn't seem to be there, but once I hit 50-60 and then let off the gas, "grrrrrrrr".
I've read a couple of threads and it seems it's common that I may need a DC driveshaft. Could it be anything else? I'm just a bit puzzled because the rep who sold me the J lift kit and spacers indicated I would only need extended brake lines with this kit, which has already turned out NOT to be the case, because my front swaybar was hitting the driveshaft, so the swaybar has been temporarily disconnected until I get swaybar drop blocks.
Any advice?
Ok, so now an issue has surfaced. Seems to have surfaced now that I redid my suspension. My setup is OME J lift with 2" metaltech spacers in the front.
I have some very bad "grrrrrr" noise upon decel from ~50-60mph. If I'm traveling slower and decel, the grrr doesn't seem to be there, but once I hit 50-60 and then let off the gas, "grrrrrrrr".
I've read a couple of threads and it seems it's common that I may need a DC driveshaft. Could it be anything else? I'm just a bit puzzled because the rep who sold me the J lift kit and spacers indicated I would only need extended brake lines with this kit, which has already turned out NOT to be the case, because my front swaybar was hitting the driveshaft, so the swaybar has been temporarily disconnected until I get swaybar drop blocks.
Any advice?
Mine does the same with a 2"ironman lift with 30mm spacers. I disconnected my front ds and it went away. Yet one more thing to add to the "list"..
- Thread starter
- #145
Hmm. Is this the reason people install a part time kit? So they can be part time on the road and then full time on the trail?
I don't think this is a reason they do that, more of a personal reference on how they want their rig set up.
redeye
SILVER Star
I've noticed the "grrrr" sound on mine too. 2" Ironman lift, no spacers up front yet, caster correction done.
I'm thinking driveshaft U joints. Anyone concur?
I'm thinking driveshaft U joints. Anyone concur?
- Thread starter
- #148
Based on the threads I've checked, it seems to be the case. Check THIS THREAD. This is the option I'm looking at now.
I love happy endings! Nice work and thanks for documenting everything.
Regarding your GRRRR, i'm getting that at higher speeds too and i only have a 2.5" lift. I know at least one U-joint is worn in the rear, so old u-joints are probably my problem. You got some serious lift up front, so you can spend money on new u-joints or just put that money into a DC shaft knowing that you might have to go there anyway.
Good luck, I love your rig!
- Thread starter
- #150
Thanks. I talked with ToolsRUS who educated me a bit on U joints and how-to. I am going to grease and check them today. I will replace the U joints if necessary and hope I can stay with the original drive shaft. I don't mind vibes so much, but would like to eliminate the loud grinding grrrr on deceleration at highway speeds.
On another note:
On another note:
- Thread starter
- #151
Update:
I regreased the u joints on both the front and rear drive shafts. No change.
I then pulled the front drive shaft off and found a nice chunk missing from one of the needle bearing caps on the rear u joint (front drive shaft). I drove around with no front drive shaft (cdl locked) and no noise! In fact, in addition to the freeway speed "grrrr", I also noticed a wobbly vibration between 30-40mph. I thought it was a balance issue and I was going to take the rig in to have the wheels balanced, but both problems went away with the front drive shaft off.
I replaced the rear u joint (the front seemed good still) and all is well. No grinding or any other issues.
I regreased the u joints on both the front and rear drive shafts. No change.
I then pulled the front drive shaft off and found a nice chunk missing from one of the needle bearing caps on the rear u joint (front drive shaft). I drove around with no front drive shaft (cdl locked) and no noise! In fact, in addition to the freeway speed "grrrr", I also noticed a wobbly vibration between 30-40mph. I thought it was a balance issue and I was going to take the rig in to have the wheels balanced, but both problems went away with the front drive shaft off.
I replaced the rear u joint (the front seemed good still) and all is well. No grinding or any other issues.
I love it when stuff works out!
Saw this thread and thought I'd include my experiences. I had the Grrrr sound on decel which turned out to be the idler pulley on the accessory belt. As others have said it was only at hwy speeds when I let off the gas.
To the OP. Nice job! I especially like the red head. Testa rossa!
To the OP. Nice job! I especially like the red head. Testa rossa!
2KCruiser
Everything 2KRacing, practically live here
I noticed that the deceleration noise went completely away once I installed the 2" MT spacers in front to level the rig.
Nice thead & thanks for all the pics...
I've never seen a engine tore down that far without it coming out. That was a lot of back breaking work.
I'm going through a HG myself.
GW
I've never seen a engine tore down that far without it coming out. That was a lot of back breaking work.
I'm going through a HG myself.
GW
Moving right along. I took off the fan shroud, fan, fan clutch, belts, alternator and other related things. I went over to meet up with Tools R Us and Inkpot and give them my fan clutch. Tools R Us is going to give it a makeover.
After a big pain in the ass, I got the upper intake plenum off.
The first 5 bolts and 1 nut came off by me reaching from the top of the engine and a bit of patience. The 2nd nut and last bolt were quite a pain. It required this from under the engine:
Moving right along. I took off the fan shroud, fan, fan clutch, belts, alternator and other related things. I went over to meet up with Tools R Us and Inkpot and give them my fan clutch. Tools R Us is going to give it a makeover.
After a big pain in the ass, I got the upper intake plenum off.
The first 5 bolts and 1 nut came off by me reaching from the top of the engine and a bit of patience. The 2nd nut and last bolt were quite a pain. It required this from under the engine:
I remember the nightmare it was to remove and re-install the Plenum... your extensions are the same thing I had to do... No fun!
Has anyone installed the intake on the head and install as a complete unit to avoid that delema? It could be even a bigger pain... just thinking out. I'm in HG replacment at this time...
Upper intake is going on today.
Here's the "old":
Here it is cleaned:
And here it is with all new vacuum lines:
Notice the custom EGR block off plate, as I will be deleting the EGR system using the resistor mod. The EGR hardpipe was also deleted from the head and a blockoff plate was installed there as well. Also, a freezeplug was put in the hole on the exhaust side. Thanks to ToolsRUs for the resistor and advice.
What benefits have you seen from the EGR deletion? fuel/power/other? I currently(actually since before I even re did my upper a year ago) have an EGR code coming up that I haven't been able to track down. I would love to delete the system all together if it is worth it. Did you have to mess with anything on the ECM side of things or does the resistor mod cover all that?
I have replaced my EGR valve and control pod thingy and still the code wont clear. I replaced all the vacuum lines and think I cleared all the pathways and routes in the plenum (some were completely clogged)..... grrrrrrrr.
1973Guppie
Supporting Vendor
did you guys use bushings for caster correction or plates?
I have 850/863 2 inch ome lift, going to put on 315's here soon and possibly a spacer up front, I have slee blue 3 degree bushings up front. I may go the extra mile and pull the driveshafts and just drop them at a driveline shop to be rebuild and a DC joint put in the front one along with some thicker tubing.
