My '97 Maintenance and Transformation Thread
- Thread starter dranven
- Start date
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How high did you jack it up? Seems like it would put excessive pressure on the tranny, no?
- Thread starter
- #43
1", maybe 1.5". One would think so; however, according to the many threads on Mud, as well as CDan, this is the way it's done. There's a factory bar running from one side of the frame to the other, which is welded to the frame on both sides making it physically impossible to remove without either removing the engine, or jacking/lifting it up a tad.
redeye
SILVER Star
Awesome thread.
Someone said it before, but the head looks SOOOO clean compared to the bottom end. When I pulled the valve cover off to change the gasket my head was dirty, dark brown everywhere, similar to the shot of the crank of your engine but darker. The timing chain area was black. Engine runs fine, but I was just really surprised how squeaky clean your head was.
Someone said it before, but the head looks SOOOO clean compared to the bottom end. When I pulled the valve cover off to change the gasket my head was dirty, dark brown everywhere, similar to the shot of the crank of your engine but darker. The timing chain area was black. Engine runs fine, but I was just really surprised how squeaky clean your head was.
- Thread starter
- #46
You talking about the exterior below the valve cover gasket? Yours may have just been leaking for quite some time. My valve cover gasket looked like it was starting to go, but wasn't too bad. It did need changing though.
- Thread starter
- #47
I removed the radiator to try to get the crank pulley bolt off with an impact gun.
It wouldn't budge. I've read that people remove the plastic "window" on the no. 1 oil pan, then use a 12mm deep socket on the torque converter bolt and brace it against the opening to lock the crank pulley in place; however, my no. 1 oil pan is off, so that's not gonna work.
So, I took this bar, wedged it against the underside of the frame on the driver's side, then ran one of the fan shroud bolts through the bar and into one of the holes in the crank pulley.
Then, using a breaker bar, it came off.
It wouldn't budge. I've read that people remove the plastic "window" on the no. 1 oil pan, then use a 12mm deep socket on the torque converter bolt and brace it against the opening to lock the crank pulley in place; however, my no. 1 oil pan is off, so that's not gonna work.
So, I took this bar, wedged it against the underside of the frame on the driver's side, then ran one of the fan shroud bolts through the bar and into one of the holes in the crank pulley.
Then, using a breaker bar, it came off.
- Thread starter
- #48
Next, I pulled the timing cover off. The bolts are different sizes, so I used a box to make sure I organized where they go.
Well, I am officially "halfway there" sorta. Now it's basically just putting everything back together.
Notice the slipper on the timing chain is beginning to brake.
So, here's the new piece:
And, here it is installed. It uses a 10mm hex socket and is torqued to 51 ft lbs.
Now everything just needs to be cleaned and put back together.
Well, I am officially "halfway there" sorta. Now it's basically just putting everything back together.
Notice the slipper on the timing chain is beginning to brake.
So, here's the new piece:
And, here it is installed. It uses a 10mm hex socket and is torqued to 51 ft lbs.
Now everything just needs to be cleaned and put back together.
- Thread starter
- #49
Question about the oil pump cover gear. Does anyone know if it needs to be oriented in any specific way when it's reinstalled? I removed the oil pump cover and also took out the "star" with the gear. I checked the FSM and it doesn't specify to install it a specific way, but I wanted to ask to be sure. It looks like it just spins and spins behind the oil pump cover.
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- #50
Anyone know about this? Like I said, seems fine, but I would like some reassurance.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/72514-how-replace-oil-pump-seal-w-pics.html
I don't if this will help you out a bit.
You have done a good thread.
I don't if this will help you out a bit.
You have done a good thread.
My 1996 FSM doesn't say anything other than listing all the different clearances to check between the drive rotor and driven rotor on page EG190 and if out of spec to replace them as a set. I recall when I replaced the oil pump cover O-ring there was a triangle shape on one lobe of the driven rotor but it did not appear to point to any particular spot on the driving rotor which did not have a corresponding mark.
dranven said:
Looks like minor valve contact. Only on this one piston? Both intake and exhaust. Seems very unusual. Did you do a compression test prior to disassembly? Valves damaged? We're the shims for this cylinder much thicker than the other cylinders? Cams lobes for this cylinder OK?
- Thread starter
- #55
Haven't cleaned 2-5, but it looks like only no. 6. The others have some carbon buildup, but still look smooth. No. 6 looked pretty bad when I pulled the head, but I thought it was all just carbon buildup.
No compression test prior to disassembly.
Head is at the shop. I talked to the guy on Friday and he mentioned they were "wrapping everything up" and no mention of any valves damaged, so I would assume not.
Cam lobes look fine to me. No visible damage.
dranven said:
Marks are so random... Could also be caused by a broken spark plug electrode bouncing around in the cylinder at some point in the engine's history.
Gouges in piston top will fill with carbon. They will create minor hot spots but nothing too serious. If you were to grind the damaged areas smooth you might alter the piston's weight which would not be good. Without major disassembly the best thing might be to do nothing more than you already have. Make sure to vacuum or otherwise clean up all the crap that came off the piston tops. That crap will not be good for the piston rings.
PS: I don't not recommend using any type of metal brush on the deck or pistons, especially if you are not having them machined. Use this non-metallic brush in a die-grinder for good results. A little carb cleaner will also greatly help to loosen stubborn carbon buildup.
http://www.harborfreight.com/2-inch-80-grit-shaft-mounted-cup-brush-91367.html
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- Thread starter
- #57
Thanks. Another person outside of Mud also thought it might be a spark plug electrode.
Not sure if you saw, but I have the no. 1 oil pan off already. I haven't checked the disassembly procedure in the FSM, but from the look of it, can't I just remove the bearing cap from the bottom and push the piston out the top? Then I could replace that piston and the ring. Thoughts?
Not sure if you saw, but I have the no. 1 oil pan off already. I haven't checked the disassembly procedure in the FSM, but from the look of it, can't I just remove the bearing cap from the bottom and push the piston out the top? Then I could replace that piston and the ring. Thoughts?
redeye
SILVER Star
No. The inside of the head. Yours looks crazy clean. For 200K+ miles I'm shocked at how clean to be honest.
- Thread starter
- #59
Ah, yea I dunno. The half moons were still sealed with light gray rtv, which CDan seems to think indicates they are original, which then would mean the cams have never been out.
Not really sure. I bought it with no real history.
