If you use a short section of silicone hose for the PHH (not the bypass) and constant torque clamps it should outlast the truck. Great photos, good work.
Good point and something to consider. If I did the bypass method (with a silicone hose), then I would have the best of both worlds. Should outlast the truck, but if anything did happen, it would be much easier to get to. Perhaps it's overkill though.
...Best photo of the phh I've ever seen. I'm not going to change the head gasket. Seems to have been done recently or never leaked. Plugs appeared to be original they were so burnt down. All powdery white. Timing chain and guide looked new. I have a 210 k truck but I think someone stuck a <100k motor in it. Had alot of numbers written on the crank pulley and the front cover.
You know, after doing some research, I don't think my PHH is original. If you look at my photos, the PHH is secured using regular worm clamps. On other photos I've seen, they're all secured by those "sardine can" clamps with the cotter pin in them (the same ones on the heater hoses above/behind the valve cover.
How hard was it to get that lower intake and fuel rail off without damaging anything. My truck was running great when I pulled it apart! I did it for PM but I just keep going and going. The water pump felt like it had rocks for bearings when I took it off. The oil pump o ring was leaking, the distributor o ring was leaking, the crank seal was leaking, the wire harness was melting where the heat from the clogged EGR valve had burned it, hoses were all cracking and dry rotting, the alternator was full of oil blown out of the distributor o ring, the power steering pump o ring and hoses were leaking, the valve cover gasket was leaking. All that to say that I am glad I did it. Now what else? Injector rail etc.
Lower intake wasn't really, hard, but a bit time consuming in a few parts. You really just need to clear some space to pull it back, so that bracket I mentioned and circled in my pictures has to come off. The oil dipstick and trans dipstick have to be loosened. Trans dipstick has a bracket attached to the lower plenum, so it's easy to see. As for the oil dipstick, just follow it down with a flashlight and you'll see where it bolts up, then it's easy to get to from under the truck.
The biggest pain was getting all the bolts/nuts securing the intake plenum to the head. The ones near the rear were a pain. IdahoDoug exclaims they are not too difficult if you have a rachet wrench set. I don't, so I had to crouch on the valve cover and use a traditional closed 12 point wrench on a couple near the back. It just took some time and lots of sweat in this heat.
The fuel rail comes off before the lower intake though, so I can't think of a reason you would even need to pull the intake if you're not gonna do the headgasket.
Oh, I thought of one more thing. The fuel filter is bolted to the lower intake plenum (under it) and it's secured by two bolts, so if you are pulling the plenum, you'll need to remove one fuel filter bolt, then just loosen the other one, so you can wiggle the hard line around (again, IF you're pulling the plenum).
If you're just pulling the rail to clean the injectors, I think you can just leave the lower plenum alone. The rail is really easy and you'll see. It's held by 3 bolts iirc. One important thing to note is the 1" black plastic spacers in between the rail and the bolts holding it to the plenum. Just look and you'll see them. If you remove the bolts, those spacers will go tumbling down to who knows where, so loosen all the bolts (don't remove them), then grab the spacer with one hand and remove the bolt with the other, so you don't lose it.
"Also disconnected the PHH and the line shown in the photo that connects from the head to the bottom of the throttle body. Can anyone tell me what this line is called?"
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Well, not sure of the "proper name" of the line, and there's no description of it in the FSM, but it's function is to preheat the throttle body and/or keep it at constant temp.
That's been a bit of a mystery to me, (a heated throttle body) because you want your intake air to be as cool as possible. My guess is, it keeps it cooler, when the engine is hot.
Anyway, I call it the "throttle body preheat hose", but, I believe the flow is from the water pump to the throttle body, then throttle body to the head.
Perhaps I should call it the "throttle body cooling hose"??
Thanks. I appreciate your insight on that. Always good for me to learn more.
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just discovered those are NOT fusible links. Thought I'd better double check and...they turn out to be just connectors. I wanted to post the correction, because I don't want to be posting mis-information. No wonder I never had any trouble with 'em. 
