I would think a faulty thermostat could get this result as well...passive cooling in non-load, not opening properly under load...
My 97 Is Running Little Hot (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter charong
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I've been debating about doing the fan clutch test...as others have mentioned, this i6 has got to be the hottest engine I've ever had - I'm just not sure if it's normal or if my fan clutch is working properly....where is that towel?
Cheers, Hugh
Cheers, Hugh
cruiserdan- RavenTai mentiones " the new one from Dan is the 3 stage Aisin, the one that was originally installed was the 2 stage (forget the manufacturer)"- are there 2 versions of the fan clutch? And what is the part # for the 3-stage clutch?
See above.........
16210-66020 is the new version. It has a navy blue hub as opposed to black.
16210-66020 is the new version. It has a navy blue hub as opposed to black.
alaskacruiser said:
At least in the 96LX450 according to the NCF manual there were 2 available versions, I do not know if 96 was a transition year in suppliers or if Toyota maintained parallel suppliers through several years, Hopefully Dan knows
http://webpages.charter.net/raventai/COOLING SYSTEM.pdf (scroll down)
the one I removed was not marked wit a manufacturer name so I assume it was the Eaton, the new one was marked Aisin, of course they bolt up the same both to the water pump and fan but the casing is very different in spacing and shape of fins location of bolts etc
I just replaced a blue Aisin with a Hayden (Sorry Dan). The blue Aisin was not leaking and appeared in good condition (25k on it) but it did not provide as much resistance as the Hayden.
Thread hi-jack: Can you replace the fluid inside the blue Aisin with something else to provide even more resistance than a Hayden?
Phil
Thread hi-jack: Can you replace the fluid inside the blue Aisin with something else to provide even more resistance than a Hayden?
Phil
R
robbie
Guest
the thermo spring on the front opens a passage when it gets too hot under the hood. This then allow the viscous fluid to flow and lock up the fan clutch. So low temp resistane is not a true messure of any thing except that it will now suck more ponyes from your engine. The only real test of the fan clutch is the running hot test. the hayden clutch will work fine but will take more power to turn under all conditions.
Charong did you do the bubble test at idle? if so then you need to get the truck to running temp then have some one rev the truck to 3000-3500 rpm and hold it while you look in the overfow tank and see if the bubbles start to form. some time it takes a couple of minutes for the compression leaks to over come the pressurezed cap (they are at 13 psi). I would do this again before just replacing the fan clutch and hoping. later robbie
Charong did you do the bubble test at idle? if so then you need to get the truck to running temp then have some one rev the truck to 3000-3500 rpm and hold it while you look in the overfow tank and see if the bubbles start to form. some time it takes a couple of minutes for the compression leaks to over come the pressurezed cap (they are at 13 psi). I would do this again before just replacing the fan clutch and hoping. later robbie
R
robbie
Guest
I had open a few and did refill the viscous fluid it help some but did not fully lock up. To me it was a waste of time. So deducing that the spring was not full opening the clutch may help those that want to mess with it. Me I will just buy a new one and be done with it. Some things are not worth the time. later robbie
semlin
curmudgeon
just reviving this thread to note that the old black flanged fan coupler I just replaced on my truck was stamped "Aisin". it is not the same as the new one.
cruiserdan said:
Dan, am I reading right? You replaced the 3 core brass rad with a 3 core brass rad? Was the first one leaking? Did you see some sludge? What do you attribute the better cooling to? Thanks man.
C,
I would listen closely to Robbie, he's the guru. Just as an extra voice, I would get ready to do a radiator, fan clutch, and head gasket. It also appears CDan has the worlds best Toyota parts hookup...bar none....
I could have saved myself a lot of time and dual labor doing them all at the same time. Heater hoses at the firewall alt brush pack, hoses, belts, stat, water pump, all need to go. I'm adding PS pump rebuild, head shave, valve job, throttle body cleaning, and strongly considering a new exhaust
(but I'm at 225k), just to maximize power and efficiency.
Good luck
I would listen closely to Robbie, he's the guru. Just as an extra voice, I would get ready to do a radiator, fan clutch, and head gasket. It also appears CDan has the worlds best Toyota parts hookup...bar none....
I could have saved myself a lot of time and dual labor doing them all at the same time. Heater hoses at the firewall alt brush pack, hoses, belts, stat, water pump, all need to go. I'm adding PS pump rebuild, head shave, valve job, throttle body cleaning, and strongly considering a new exhaust
(but I'm at 225k), just to maximize power and efficiency.
Good luck
turbocruiser said:Dan, am I reading right? You replaced the 3 core brass rad with a 3 core brass rad? Was the first one leaking? Did you see some sludge? What do you attribute the better cooling to? Thanks man.
Bump, I dunno if Dan saw this the first time. I'm still interested in finding out if the same rad was replaced (brass to brass)? Thanks.
turbocruiser said:Bump, I dunno if Dan saw this the first time. I'm still interested in finding out if the same rad was replaced (brass to brass)? Thanks.
Bump, again, common Dan the agony is exhausting, I'm tryin to finger out why the same replacement rad would have worked to reduce temps ... was the first one requiring repair, was it full of sludge, was it full of mud, or was there some redesign of rads making the new brass rad better than the old brass rad. Thanks buddy.
Jeeze,
You revive a two-year-old thread and expect me to remember?
My original radiator (which I still have in my stash) was 11 years old and it felt "heavy" when I removed it. I replaced a like-kind unit and my cooling was improved. I can only assume that the original was performning below par.
You revive a two-year-old thread and expect me to remember?
My original radiator (which I still have in my stash) was 11 years old and it felt "heavy" when I removed it. I replaced a like-kind unit and my cooling was improved. I can only assume that the original was performning below par.
Interesting comment Dan. Weighing the new and old would have been a VERY effective way of evaluating if there were deposits in there. Of course that would require drying the old one well and when your truck is dripping coolant and tranny oil and the battery tray, grille, fan, belts, misc hoses and such are laying about it's just not always in the cards.
Interesting, though. I have two used 93/94 rads that have been drying for about a year now in the corner of the garage. Guess what I'll be doing at some point, and guess who I'll be asking to weigh a new one some time soon??? Whups, don't drop those knitting needles - Turbo's going to need a new radiator soon.
DougM
Interesting, though. I have two used 93/94 rads that have been drying for about a year now in the corner of the garage. Guess what I'll be doing at some point, and guess who I'll be asking to weigh a new one some time soon??? Whups, don't drop those knitting needles - Turbo's going to need a new radiator soon.
DougM
IdahoDoug said:
Uhhh, Douglas you can simply weigh the new one prior to starting the job and weigh the old one after finishing the job!
