TPI is just a better fuel delivery system all around. With a little work that engine should be able to put out gobs of power.
My '84 60 build, "Wallace"
- Thread starter ntsqd
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TPI is just a better fuel delivery system all around. With a little work that engine should be able to put out gobs of power.
ntsqd
technerd
- Thread starter
- #42
If the 2F had been able to consistently deliver, in smog legal trim, 20-ish mpg then I would have left it in place. The power that it made was mostly fine for my use. I'm not after a lot of power, I'm looking for better efficiency w/o crossing into OBD II territory. It is sad that the TPI engine can deliver at the same time both more power and better efficiency than the 2F. But then I guess comparing a 1930's design to a 1980's design would do that.
My main reason for going to aluminum heads would be detonation resistance. It's unfortunate that unless I find a set of the Corvette heads that the intake ports will get bigger. I don't need or want bigger ports.
My main reason for going to aluminum heads would be detonation resistance. It's unfortunate that unless I find a set of the Corvette heads that the intake ports will get bigger. I don't need or want bigger ports.
ntsqd
technerd
- Thread starter
- #43
Well, I screwed the pooch on the filler neck mod. I somehow managed to ovalize the Z-28 part while trying to get it out of the Z's fill neck (which has to be cut off the tank). Not sure what I'm going to do now, but something has to happen.
If I could have disassembled the parts it looked like the Z piece with the restrictor and the female threads for the cap could have been inserted into the stock fill neck. The Z part is soft soldered in place, but the fit is tight and I was having to use a hammer and punch combined with a mapp torch to get it to move at all. Now that it has cooled down I'll try to make it round enough for the cap to thread in, but I don't have high hopes. If I can do that I'll break out the dremel tool, which is what I should have done in the first place. So late, so smart.....
If I could have disassembled the parts it looked like the Z piece with the restrictor and the female threads for the cap could have been inserted into the stock fill neck. The Z part is soft soldered in place, but the fit is tight and I was having to use a hammer and punch combined with a mapp torch to get it to move at all. Now that it has cooled down I'll try to make it round enough for the cap to thread in, but I don't have high hopes. If I can do that I'll break out the dremel tool, which is what I should have done in the first place. So late, so smart.....
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Whad'ya think a junkyard would charge you for a Jdirt filler neck cut off? I bet it's a cold day they sell a complete gas tank.
ntsqd
technerd
- Thread starter
- #45
Minor epiphany at the fuel station this morning. I'm driving Patch, my '84 Mini 4wd due to this weather that we're having. Last time we had weather like this La Conchita slid, killed several people, and closed the freeway for a week. Only one other road available and back then it had a slide too. Took the brother of a friend 21 hours to drive home by driving to Bakersfield and then battling it out over the Grapevine. Had I not been picking up parts in town I'd have likely caught the slide broadside. But I'm digressing.....
Anyway, Patch has a screw-in cap. Now why in tarnation does the same year Mini have a screw-in cap and the pinnacle of Toyota 4WD development have the inferior tang style cap? So anyway, I'm going to be searching the classifieds for a Mini filler neck. I'm interested if anyone has a spare.
Anyway, Patch has a screw-in cap. Now why in tarnation does the same year Mini have a screw-in cap and the pinnacle of Toyota 4WD development have the inferior tang style cap? So anyway, I'm going to be searching the classifieds for a Mini filler neck. I'm interested if anyone has a spare.
ntsqd
technerd
- Thread starter
- #46
Quick update:
The "JDC" hulk went to the great Z-28 resting place in the sky.
The original trans and transfer case went to their new home today.
No time yet to hit the JY in search of a screw-in cap type fill neck. I intend to try to get one from a Toyota of similar vintage. Should make a future replacement cap easier to get if I can recall what the application is.
Cleaning the not terribly dirty engine bay has taken more time than I would have expected. I'm nearly done with that. Next comes removing the stuff that I won't be needing. Clutch hyds., some of the heater plumbing, choke cable, etc. The plan is to convert the "CHOKE" light to be the CEL so I need to look into how the switch on the choke cable interacts with the light.
The "JDC" hulk went to the great Z-28 resting place in the sky.
The original trans and transfer case went to their new home today.
No time yet to hit the JY in search of a screw-in cap type fill neck. I intend to try to get one from a Toyota of similar vintage. Should make a future replacement cap easier to get if I can recall what the application is.
Cleaning the not terribly dirty engine bay has taken more time than I would have expected. I'm nearly done with that. Next comes removing the stuff that I won't be needing. Clutch hyds., some of the heater plumbing, choke cable, etc. The plan is to convert the "CHOKE" light to be the CEL so I need to look into how the switch on the choke cable interacts with the light.
Cool. Getting there!
IIRC you just cut the lines to the choke indicator light & patch it into the CEL circuit. I removed my lens & used acetone to take the lettering off & shined it up with plastic polish. Found the proper font & point size in Word, printed out & had a local awards shop silk-screen the new lettering. Looks OEM.
The choke knob hole became the site of the plow light/headlight switch (boy was that fun figuring out since Toyota switches the ground).
The choke knob hole became the site of the plow light/headlight switch (boy was that fun figuring out since Toyota switches the ground).
ntsqd
technerd
- Thread starter
- #49
Minor update: both original frame mounts for the engine have been removed. Kind of disappointing, with the exception of the welds on the top of the frame it proved easier to cut the vertical sections off with a 3 lber and a big chisel than to try to cut them off with a Sawzall. Only one of the 4 was well welded on, the other three peeled right off. There was the front end of 800+ lbs sitting on those? Really?
Special thanks to MotoDave, who after asking how he could help removed one of the two (so far) most difficult bolts on the whole project. I removed it's mate. Jeez! What a PITA!!! For those familiar with 60's (not sure if 62's have this or not) I'm referring to the hold-down clip bolts for the forward tube of the PS cooler. Those on top of the frame, but under the core support. I'm going with a stacked plate cooler as there is a hyd winch that will likely be included late into the build.
I also scored both another GM filler neck ('91 vintage, but the cap from a Camaro screwed in like it was supposed to be there) and from an 84-ish 2WD Toyota pick-up. (it had been side-swiped so hard that the rear axle housing had a 12" bow in it!!!!) Of course, it had to be on the passenger side......
I have the threaded portion of the fill neck out of the GM neck. Looks like it goes to work with me. With some care I can cut the restrictor section off the end on the lathe and it will be butt-weldable using some silicon-bronze filler rod.
Toyota uses silver-solder where GM uses soft solder. Takes the project to a whole next level. I'm still preferring to use the Toyota part if I can get it apart or cut down to a useful size w/o damage.
Special thanks to MotoDave, who after asking how he could help removed one of the two (so far) most difficult bolts on the whole project. I removed it's mate. Jeez! What a PITA!!! For those familiar with 60's (not sure if 62's have this or not) I'm referring to the hold-down clip bolts for the forward tube of the PS cooler. Those on top of the frame, but under the core support. I'm going with a stacked plate cooler as there is a hyd winch that will likely be included late into the build.
I also scored both another GM filler neck ('91 vintage, but the cap from a Camaro screwed in like it was supposed to be there) and from an 84-ish 2WD Toyota pick-up. (it had been side-swiped so hard that the rear axle housing had a 12" bow in it!!!!) Of course, it had to be on the passenger side......
I have the threaded portion of the fill neck out of the GM neck. Looks like it goes to work with me. With some care I can cut the restrictor section off the end on the lathe and it will be butt-weldable using some silicon-bronze filler rod.
Toyota uses silver-solder where GM uses soft solder. Takes the project to a whole next level. I'm still preferring to use the Toyota part if I can get it apart or cut down to a useful size w/o damage.
If anybody can do it, it's So. Cal's rocket scientist. Count me as subscribed, if nothing else than for the filler neck modification. Also, good luck on the 20MPG. Here's hoping you can get there with a gasser--
ntsqd
technerd
- Thread starter
- #51
I guess I need to figure out if the computer grounds or powers the CEL, and then decide on the wiring from there. I bought the Helm Manual for the donor so I have a good reference. Just need to dig into it.
I was thinking clear tape label maker to do the same re-labeling of the lens.
I've been chomping at the bit, but life keeps getting in the way of cutting into the Mini's fill neck. So far it looks really promising. The Mini's threaded section is all of about 3/4" long and just may be of an OD that will fit inside of the FJ's fill neck once the current tabs are removed.
20 MPG out of a gasser V8 isn't all that impossible. With the right engine combo it's doable with a carb as it has been done. Just not in a box quite this size, and definitely not a 4WD.
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ntsqd
technerd
- Thread starter
- #52
Fill Neck Mod
Yesterday's small chore was to finish the fuel filler mod between the rain showers. The tang type bung is easily bent by fill nozzles and then the cap can pop partly off the bung's ramps. This results in fuel vapors inside the truck.
The plan was to use silicon-bronze filler rod and my GTAW to weld the screw cap portion to replace the tang-type cap bung. Silicon-Bronze was chosen because it flows like brazing rod, but allows the use of a GTAW to keep total heat to a minimum. I have found S-B to work very well for applications where sealing of fluids or low total heat - or both - is more important than maximum strength. Like brazing, the base metal does not need to be heated to the point of melting for the process to work.
I started out with the engine donor car's fill neck, but managed to ovalize it in the process of cutting it down. Off to the junkyard where I picked up a fill neck from an S-10 of nearly the same vintage as the donor car. I also picked up a fill neck from the same vintage body style as my '84 4WD mini. The idea being that any future necessary replacement cap would be either the vintage of the donor car, or one that would also fit my mini truck, which happens to be the same year as my FJ60.
Experiments in the JY showed that the threads of the two necks were apparently different. Very close, but different. Somewhere along the way the Toyota fill neck vanished! The one in the pictures is from the GM S-10. The cap is from the donor car, though I plan to replace it with new. I should note that I tried the cap from my Mini in the completed FJ60 neck, and it threaded in and sealed like it was supposed to!!!
The cut down fill neck, the angle is intentional for cap clearance of the door:
Fill neck with the new, cut-down screw-cap section mocked up:
Checking fit and for door closure:
Finish welded filler mocked up in place to double check for door closure:
Without the cap:
I'm calling it a success. I do need to order replacement body gaskets and a new fill neck to fuel tank hose.
Yesterday's small chore was to finish the fuel filler mod between the rain showers. The tang type bung is easily bent by fill nozzles and then the cap can pop partly off the bung's ramps. This results in fuel vapors inside the truck.
The plan was to use silicon-bronze filler rod and my GTAW to weld the screw cap portion to replace the tang-type cap bung. Silicon-Bronze was chosen because it flows like brazing rod, but allows the use of a GTAW to keep total heat to a minimum. I have found S-B to work very well for applications where sealing of fluids or low total heat - or both - is more important than maximum strength. Like brazing, the base metal does not need to be heated to the point of melting for the process to work.
I started out with the engine donor car's fill neck, but managed to ovalize it in the process of cutting it down. Off to the junkyard where I picked up a fill neck from an S-10 of nearly the same vintage as the donor car. I also picked up a fill neck from the same vintage body style as my '84 4WD mini. The idea being that any future necessary replacement cap would be either the vintage of the donor car, or one that would also fit my mini truck, which happens to be the same year as my FJ60.
Experiments in the JY showed that the threads of the two necks were apparently different. Very close, but different. Somewhere along the way the Toyota fill neck vanished! The one in the pictures is from the GM S-10. The cap is from the donor car, though I plan to replace it with new. I should note that I tried the cap from my Mini in the completed FJ60 neck, and it threaded in and sealed like it was supposed to!!!
The cut down fill neck, the angle is intentional for cap clearance of the door:
Fill neck with the new, cut-down screw-cap section mocked up:
Checking fit and for door closure:
Finish welded filler mocked up in place to double check for door closure:
Without the cap:
I'm calling it a success. I do need to order replacement body gaskets and a new fill neck to fuel tank hose.
ntsqd
technerd
- Thread starter
- #53
Not much has happened lately. Life is getting in the way.....
Now that I've got daylight after work I hope to be able to put in more time on it.
The engine is hanging in the engine bay with a mock-up trans case bolted to it. I had hoped to have the mounts built by now, but.....
It looks like it could go in higher than most that I've seen by a large margin. Trans bellhousing to body interference looks to be the limiting factor. I hope to measure the pinion angle next weekend, that will decide the installation angle and should begin to define where it will need to be.
I'm sort of pondering using a Morse type cable to shift the NP241 and blanking off the t/c shifter hole in the floor. Could put that shifter next to the Winters trans shifter. Getting one of the old t/c shifter boot bolts out is going to be a PITA. Some of the HVAC system sits *right* above it and is closer than it's length.
Now that I've got daylight after work I hope to be able to put in more time on it.
The engine is hanging in the engine bay with a mock-up trans case bolted to it. I had hoped to have the mounts built by now, but.....
It looks like it could go in higher than most that I've seen by a large margin. Trans bellhousing to body interference looks to be the limiting factor. I hope to measure the pinion angle next weekend, that will decide the installation angle and should begin to define where it will need to be.
I'm sort of pondering using a Morse type cable to shift the NP241 and blanking off the t/c shifter hole in the floor. Could put that shifter next to the Winters trans shifter. Getting one of the old t/c shifter boot bolts out is going to be a PITA. Some of the HVAC system sits *right* above it and is closer than it's length.
Getting the old shift boot off is kinda a PITA, but doable. Any other advantage other than shift position for the cable shift system?
ntsqd
technerd
- Thread starter
- #56
Small update. Proposed and all of the stuff triggered by her acceptance has eaten a bunch of time, but I've gotten some time in on the project. If I didn't at the beginning I should have warned y'all that I normally move on projects about like molasses and this project is proving to be no different.
All of the SYE parts except for the partial rebuild kit arrived late last week. I've got the t/c apart and mostly cleaned up. With a final cleaning it will be ready for all of the new parts and assembly. The trans guy is taking his sweet time, but I don't need it yet so I'm not pushing for it too hard.
In the mean time I've got the front 1/2 of the t/c's case bolted to the mock-up trans case. I'm going to want a clocking ring to put the front drive shaft further over to the right and to keep the t/c's case from hanging too far below the bottom of the frame, so I just ordered that from Kert @ DIY4X.com. Good guy, recommended vendor.
As I suspected a while back, the trans-t/c to floor interference is the limiting factor in how high I can mount the power train. The t/c has a bolt boss that will hit the underside of the floor once the clocking ring is in place. So I'm stalled on engine placement until the clocking ring gets here. I don't really want to go there, but a 1" BL would sure open things up quite a bit.
In looking at where the stock engine mounts are and where the exhaust is likely to need to go I'm starting to think that going with a mount like these:
Chevy Weld-In Motor Mounts might be a better idea. I had wanted to use the stock mounts for ease of replacement parts, but they use up a LOT of room where exhaust might need to go.
The engine is currently sitting in the truck at 7* relative to gravity while the rear pinion angle is 2.5* relative to gravity. Since I have to make major mods to the axle housing to center the pinion anyway I can re-set the pinion angle, but I don't think that I want to go as far as 7* so a DC rear drive shaft may be required.
EDIT: Turns out that the Speedway parts are on back order. I have some OME urethane bushings that I could make something similar from, but if I do something like that I want the bushing application to be for the FJ60 as that will make finding replacement parts much simpler. I called Kurt @ Cruiser Outfitters and he was kind enough to look up what I had. Dimensionally I though that they were marginal. The FJ parts would've worked better. In the process I find out that Kurt stocks the OE rubber spring eye bushings! I much prefer rubber in engine mounts to urethane, so I've got 8 of those on the way.
All of the SYE parts except for the partial rebuild kit arrived late last week. I've got the t/c apart and mostly cleaned up. With a final cleaning it will be ready for all of the new parts and assembly. The trans guy is taking his sweet time, but I don't need it yet so I'm not pushing for it too hard.
In the mean time I've got the front 1/2 of the t/c's case bolted to the mock-up trans case. I'm going to want a clocking ring to put the front drive shaft further over to the right and to keep the t/c's case from hanging too far below the bottom of the frame, so I just ordered that from Kert @ DIY4X.com. Good guy, recommended vendor.
As I suspected a while back, the trans-t/c to floor interference is the limiting factor in how high I can mount the power train. The t/c has a bolt boss that will hit the underside of the floor once the clocking ring is in place. So I'm stalled on engine placement until the clocking ring gets here. I don't really want to go there, but a 1" BL would sure open things up quite a bit.
In looking at where the stock engine mounts are and where the exhaust is likely to need to go I'm starting to think that going with a mount like these:
Chevy Weld-In Motor Mounts might be a better idea. I had wanted to use the stock mounts for ease of replacement parts, but they use up a LOT of room where exhaust might need to go.
The engine is currently sitting in the truck at 7* relative to gravity while the rear pinion angle is 2.5* relative to gravity. Since I have to make major mods to the axle housing to center the pinion anyway I can re-set the pinion angle, but I don't think that I want to go as far as 7* so a DC rear drive shaft may be required.
EDIT: Turns out that the Speedway parts are on back order. I have some OME urethane bushings that I could make something similar from, but if I do something like that I want the bushing application to be for the FJ60 as that will make finding replacement parts much simpler. I called Kurt @ Cruiser Outfitters and he was kind enough to look up what I had. Dimensionally I though that they were marginal. The FJ parts would've worked better. In the process I find out that Kurt stocks the OE rubber spring eye bushings! I much prefer rubber in engine mounts to urethane, so I've got 8 of those on the way.
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Congratulations on the engagement!!! She's a lucky gal.
Where is the clocking ring? I wouldn't mind having a flat belly on moonshine for the next time I pull my drivetrain apart.
Where is the clocking ring? I wouldn't mind having a flat belly on moonshine for the next time I pull my drivetrain apart.
ntsqd
technerd
- Thread starter
- #59
Small update:
I've not worked on this much in months past. Just kept getting the short end of the list and nothing was happening. I decided that if I'm going to meet the decree of going on our honeymoon in it that I'd better get with it! So, I've solved my design stoppage on the trans cross member and got that built. I realized that a lot of my alignment with the frame issues/questions would go away if I anchored the trans end first. I have one small piece left to weld onto the cross member, but it is functional enough to work on the front mounts. I have the left side mount built. It needs a little tweaking to fit the way that I'd like, but it's 95% done. I just need to weld it to the frame. Unfortunately I'm typing without a right index finger as I failed to notice the lack of fly's on the part that I had just welded. That ended my day for today.
No pictures as my camera batteries are dead. I'll post a few once I have both front mounts built and in place. Not much to see until then anyway.
I've not worked on this much in months past. Just kept getting the short end of the list and nothing was happening. I decided that if I'm going to meet the decree of going on our honeymoon in it that I'd better get with it! So, I've solved my design stoppage on the trans cross member and got that built. I realized that a lot of my alignment with the frame issues/questions would go away if I anchored the trans end first. I have one small piece left to weld onto the cross member, but it is functional enough to work on the front mounts. I have the left side mount built. It needs a little tweaking to fit the way that I'd like, but it's 95% done. I just need to weld it to the frame. Unfortunately I'm typing without a right index finger as I failed to notice the lack of fly's on the part that I had just welded. That ended my day for today.
No pictures as my camera batteries are dead. I'll post a few once I have both front mounts built and in place. Not much to see until then anyway.
I will keep my eyes on this one. Nice truck
