My '84 60 build, "Wallace"

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

NT -
NoT to throw cold water on your goal(s), but with the brick aerodynamics, friction losses, & 700R4, 20mpg would only be achievable over a cliff in a vacuum with rock-hard 5" wide tires.

15-16 combined is realistic if you keep your foot out of it.

COOL build ... same on the MPG thats what my 5.3 get city or hwy
 
Have to have high goals to have high achievements. :)
The Sub has done 15.6 as a best ever, and that was averaging 75-80 over ~350 miles. I don't doubt that it'll fall short, but with the smaller sized brick of the 60 geared to turn the right rpms at a slower speed it should do better than the Sub. I'm quite sure that I can drive it down in mpg's. :hillbilly:

Unless your brother is known far and wide as "My Infamous Scout Friend (MISF)" AKA "dumbazz"...
So that means that there is more than one person out there with the Scout Sickness? Oey....
MISF's 392 IH powered 7500 lbs. ride about to be stuck in Doran Cyn:
HarveyonDoran2.jpg
 
Last edited:
I have an 85, same color, that is replacing my 91 Suburban!
 
You've got another follower. I leaning toward a 5.3 tho. Love the battery cables where did the rest of the leads go? That's it for now. matt
 
I deliberately chose a non-OBD II engine for the swap. The better efficiency of the later engines is attractive, but the hassle of getting one through the Smog Ref (BT, DT!) is enough to turn me off of them.

I only made up replacement battery cables that were short. The truck had one of those "emergency" clamp-on battery terminals on the ground cable when I bought it. The positive cable terminal was in OK shape, but the strands were slightly exposed and very corroded right behind the terminal. I added a marine isolated terminal and screwed it to the RS inner fender. Cut the existing + cable to fit to the stud and crimped on a new lug. The ground cable had a similar corrosion story going on at the grounding point on the battery tray brace lug, so I cut it there too. Then I crimped together the short new cables in the pic.
 
Work started some time ago, but the first post date was 11-23. That's probably how. :)

The "joe dirt" donor is slowly giving up it's heart for a transplant. This uncommon cold weather, literally freezing overnight, has put a damper on working outside. Only freezing might be bush leagues for some of you, but for the lower left coast that's too fawking cold to be working outside!
 
Only freezing might be bush leagues for some of you, but for the lower left coast that's too fawking cold to be working outside!

LOL ! I just got sh!t today for complaining it was too cold to work on the rig!

Yeah! So. California boys! :D
 
Work started some time ago, but the first post date was 11-23. That's probably how. :)

The "joe dirt" donor is slowly giving up it's heart for a transplant. This uncommon cold weather, literally freezing overnight, has put a damper on working outside. Only freezing might be bush leagues for some of you, but for the lower left coast that's too fawking cold to be working outside!

No, I agree. Freezing temperatures mean that it's way too cold to work outside. Only difference is that on my corner of the US, it happens from November through March:o
 
My outside thermometer reads -7!
There's one in every crowd!
:D

The bigger hindrance to getting things done is leaving for work before daylight and getting home right at dusk. Even if I didn't have all of the stuff in my 1.25 car garage, the FJ would not fit under the 1948 era garage door. So for now, progress happens mostly on the weekends.
 
Been working on removing the wiring loom from the joe dirt car. There is a grounding stud on the back of each cylinder head. The driver's was fairly easy to get at. The passenger side was right there where you could see it, but no known wrench was going to spin the nut off, assuming that you could even get the wrench ON the nut. Ended up removing the whole A/C bundle from the firewall. Then the RF fender had to come off to get the engine bay loom out...

Then the bloody dash had to come OUT to get at the rest of the loom. Why am I not just using an aftermarket loom? There are several reasons. One is that I am cheap. There, I said it. :) Another is that I will be adapting the Z's cruise control to Wallace once I have the smog thing all sorted out and the magic label stuck on. I also have to be smog legal. Some of the harness' do the smog part, but none appear to offer the cruise option.

With the exception of the engine bay wires that come through the firewall on the driver's side, the engine loom can be used pretty much as-is. The loom behind the dash will need to be spread out on the driveway so that all of the extra wires can be carefully removed from it and each remaining wire & connector tagged with what it does.
 
Thom -
I'm fascinated that you're tackling this: my Audi mechanic accomplished the same thing cramming my old 20V Turbo motor into his Coupe Quattro, mating the turbo ECU & engine harness to the chassis harness. Did You get both wiring diagrams & work backwards from the donor motor?

I'd always imagined that a CC add-on would be somewhat straightforward, but the stock Toyota control stalk being nearly unobtainable keeps it off my list.

BTW it's 22F here now - had a white Christmas!
 
I haven't much thought about what I'll be doing for the CC switches. I'm envisioning 2-3 switches in a panel somewhere, but all of that is YTBD.
I bought the Helm (OE) manual for the Z-28 as well as the Probst book on the GM TPI EFI systems. I'm making progress on the loom, but it is slow going. My goal is to have as few points of interconnected-ness between the vehicle loom and the engine control loom as possible. The idea behind that being that each respective manual's wiring diagrams and diagnosis methods still apply.
 
Milestone!

The engine is now out of the "joe dirt" car and the trans is sitting under it on a floor jack. Tonight's challenge will be figuring out how to raise the car enough higher that the trans can come out.

IMG_0949.jpg


IMG_0952.jpg


Also, I had a thought on the VATS. Most folks send off their ECU's and have that function disabled. I'm really tempted to keep it and make a plug with the correct resistance in it that can be removed separately from the ign key.
 
Well, the "jdc" has almost been raped of all worthy parts. MISF discovered that some of the worthless to me parts will fit his S-10 DD project (PS box & we think the sway-bars), so a few more parts are coming off and then I call the junker to come get the hulk. He wants the fuel pump for a spare, so the tank is coming out. I'm thinking to use the fill neck to modify the 60's fill neck and eliminate the issue of the fuel cap popping loose as well as going to a screw-in type filler cap.
 
Well, the "jdc" has almost been raped of all worthy parts. MISF discovered that some of the worthless to me parts will fit his S-10 DD project (PS box & we think the sway-bars), so a few more parts are coming off and then I call the junker to come get the hulk. He wants the fuel pump for a spare, so the tank is coming out. I'm thinking to use the fill neck to modify the 60's fill neck and eliminate the issue of the fuel cap popping loose as well as going to a screw-in type filler cap.

Nice. The fuel cap mod will be nice.

How much did that motor put out? Planning any work for it?
 
X2 on that
 
Don't quote me on the numbers, but what I recall is 245 HP. No idea at what rpm, or anything about the torque. I knew once because I looked it up, but aging sucks....

Well, OK, now ya got me curious. Went to thirdgen.org and looked it up. The '92 L89 5.7L engine produces:
245HP@4400
345FT-LBS@3200

So it's not going to set the world on fire, but it will be a healthy step up from a 2F. I can tell you that it lit up the rears in my backyard - no sweat!! Danged near hit the Baja.
As odd as it might sound I went for the TPI engine over the TBI engine for it's hoped-for better efficiency, not it's greater power.
I'm going to run it as-is for a while. Once I have all of the secondary things (A/C, Cruise, etc.) sorted out, and a few other projects knocked out, then I may look into rebuilding it with some aluminum heads. That's at least a year down the road and maybe several years down the road.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom