My '84 60 build, "Wallace"

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I now have a complete throttle linkage system! I had to take the pedal assembly back out to add the stop. I am using the original pedal spring and without the stop too much slack could develop at the idle setting. With the stop I have adjusted the idle position of the pedal to have a slight amount of slack in the cable. Sharp eyes might notice that the barrel on the end of the cable is no longer copper colored. The copper one melted under the GTAW's heat. :whoops: The new one is stainless and I left it a little long on one side to make it easier to R&R.

IMG_0073.jpg


IMG_0074.jpg


Can also see how high the engine sits in the frame in this shot:

IMG_0072.jpg
 
Almost done!:D Get it ready for SnT!!!!!


Dynosoar:zilla:
 
SnT would be awesome, but they'd have to lay me off now instead of Dec 15 as planned for that to happen.
I now have the Winters shifter hooked up, but not mounted. I'm using the old Cat temp sensor hole & grommet for the shifter cable pass-thru.
Still to go:
Fuel pump & filter mount, & plumbing (~30% done)
Engine wiring (0%)
Exhaust (planned out, but 0%)
Radiator mounts & plumbing (0%)
Fan shroud (0%)
Centered Rear Axle (0%)
Trans cooler & plumbing (0%)
PS cooler & plumbing (0%)
10,000 details (0%)
 
another minor update

A lot of this going on: :bang::bang::bang: with the fuel system in the engine bay. I've finally arrived at something workable that I think will stand the test of time and use. The rear of the DR side rail now has the supply (wanted to use the rear of the PS side, but too congested there). I turned a stub from a SS bolt the fit into the regulator's return port and a piece of 3/8" SS tube, which then got the worst looking silver-soldering job that I've ever done sticking the two together. So, no pictures of it. Intake is back together though. Debating on whether to send the TB out for a re-bushing or not.

I also converted a Bilstein 5100 shock body into a high pressure, 1 pint accumulator. I'm not convinced that I need it, but the thing landed in my lap and it's an idea that I've been wanting to try out. I just need to pick and order a check valve for it and I'm ready to install it.

Next up: figuring out what the bracket for the high pressure pump & 10 micron filter want to look like. They're going to be mounted on vibration isolator bushings. I have the part that the pump & filter actually sit in/on built, it is the other part that hasn't revealed itself to me yet.

I was hoping that after I'm let go by my work that I'd have a lot of free time to work on this project. That is looking less likely as I think that I'll be moving in with my Fiance' to reduce living expenses. Timing is everything and I have the opportunity to snag a renter that I know will take care of my place, but I have to move fast for it to work for them.
 
Only real news of note lately is that I ordered and installed the fittings from FJ40Jim's PSC link here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/440224-power-steering-box-thread-size.html

No more plastic plugs to keep the rain out of the box. I now have steel -6 JIC caps on the PSC fittings. I note that Jim says that they're SAE. I guess that I'll need to check the angle of the taper before I put JIC/AN hose ends on them.
 
Fuel system and things

Years ago a friend gave me a marine water separating spin-on fuel filter. I've used one on every V8 rig since. "Wallace" isn't going to be any different. Only now with EFI things have to be a bit different. The Plan was to put the marine filter between the tank and the EFI fuel pump to protect it from the larger junk. Then to use the std. GM EFI fuel filter used on just about everything GM makes with EFI placed after the pump. In looking at where the pump is going to mount and considering that the marine filter would be between the tank and the pump I reluctantly decided to head off any problems from the first and use a low pressure pump to draw from the tank.

This morning I realized that the LP pump is somewhat in jeopardy from any junk that might be in the fuel because there is no pick-up sock on the FJ60 pick-up tube. That struck me as very odd, but after removing mine to silver-solder on the AN/JIC adapter fittings and not finding one on the tube nor any marks from where it might have been, and then shaking the tank while it was out I know that there is not one loose inside of the tank and the online parts page lists it, but shows no p/n for that item.

Since I bought everything plumbing related when my past employer pulled stakes and moved to Detroit I had an Aeromotive inline fuel filter with a 10 micron paper filter element in it and I was able to find a pair of -10 ORB x -6 AN/JIC fittings for it. By cutting the paper out of the S.S. filter element end pieces and then removing the adhesive I was able to silver-solder a roll of S.S. wire mesh into those end pieces. Thus was born my ~600 micron inline strainer. :)

The entire assembly shown below bolts to the frame cross-member just in front of the rear axle and is just about the same depth as the frame rail. The marine filter is 'hidden' behind the right rear front spring hanger. The reason for the side and bottom 'wings' on the bracket is to keep rocks and debris thrown off of the front tires from peppering the fairly thin body of the filter.

I also got a t/c shifter from a late 80's K5 that is looking like I can make it bolt in place using the stock t/c shifter boot bolts and be able to use the stock shifter boot.

Enough blathering, on to the two pics that I have at the moment. Once I get the rest of the under truck plumbing done and the shifter a little further along I'll post a few more.

penultimatefuelpump-filter-1.jpg


penultimatefuelpump-filter-2.jpg
 
Last edited:
So the spin on filter goes between the LP "priming" pump and the HP EFI pump? You've got a really cool, and well filtered, fuel system there, but I'm confused as usual. :lol:

That setup is VERY clean!
 
Thanks, You've got it right; tank -> Aeromotive ~600 micron strainer -> Carter 4070 LP pump -> marine filter -> Walbro GSL 392 inline HP pump -> 10 micron 'GM' filter. The strainer and the Carter pump are not yet mounted, but I should have pictures of it all by the end of the weekend. They'll be tucked up next to the RS upper damper mount.

I *might* have over-thought this by just a little..... ;)

Just as I got free of other demands and was starting to get going on this I found employment. Starts Monday morning. Double-edged sword there....
 
ntsqd said:
Thanks, You've got it right; tank -> Aeromotive ~600 micron strainer -> Carter 4070 LP pump -> marine filter -> Walbro GSL 392 inline HP pump -> 10 micron 'GM' filter. The strainer and the Carter pump are not yet mounted, but I should have pictures of it all by the end of the weekend. They'll be tucked up next to the RS upper damper mount.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info! I'll look forward to seeing the finished, installed system.

Just as I got free of other demands and was starting to get going on this I found employment. Starts Monday morning. Double-edged sword there....
Click to expand...

That's great news, congrats! A man's gotta eat! :cheers:
 
ntsqd said:
Just as I got free of other demands and was starting to get going on this I found employment. Starts Monday morning. Double-edged sword there....
Click to expand...

Glad to hear it! Congrats! It is a double edged sword, but the steady gig keeps things on track, 'specially for a family man....
 
OK pics as promised, just a little rain & work delayed.

fuelsystemfromfront1.jpg


fuelsystemfromrear1.jpg


fuelsystemfromunder1.jpg


EDIT: Better elevation picture:
IMG_0127.jpg


I plan to make a debris deflector that will hang down in front of the EFI fuel pump & filter. More important things to do right now.
After much searching I concluded that the easiest solution for the thermostat housing was just to make one. Modifying an aluminum housing was possible, but when that corrodes to useless I'd be stuck with making another one - possibly at someplace not home. So I decided on using stainless steel. I bought a Sched 10 SS 2" cap, a Sched 10 SS weld Elbow, and a 12" section of Sched 10 SS pipe from McMaster. A local craftsman/welder is CNC plasma cutting the t-stat housing flange and some head pipe flanges for the Ram's Horns from a piece of 3/8" thick SS plate. I started the cutting, fitting, and welding tonight. More on that as it progresses.
 
Last edited:
Are you going to use a -20 (1 1/4") or -24 (1 1/2") AN fitting or standard hose and clamps?


Dynosoar:zilla:
 
Hose and clamps. The Camaro uses a tiny upper hose, 1" Sched 10 pipe is a near exact ID & OD match to the OE t-stat housing's hose bib. Since I'm using a radiator intended to fit a 3rd Gen F-Car I'm locked into staying with that size. I'd do a pair of Wiggins couplings if I were to do something more exotic, but I just don't see the point on this project. Or the expense either.

I got the neck to about the 75% point tonight (pipe, weld-elbow, and cap fit & welded together), but I'm waiting on the flange. No camera with me today. I'll take pictures before bolting it on.
 
I think it is more like 1 1/4" I have not had mine off for a while but I was pretty sure. Why not run the stock piece? I do and it works fine. even with a mech fan. Wiggens is WAY more exotic!

P.S. I just got my truck back from the painter it looks bitchen....... pics to follow soon.

Dynosoar:zilla:
 
That looks pretty danged cool, and vulnerable...I look forward to seeing the protection you make for it! :cheers:
 
My stock t-stat housing points the upper hose right thru the mechanical fan blades. I've looked thru the LAPS' parts book pictorial listing twice and haven't found anything more workable. With the serpentine belt lay-out the hose can only come forward skewed slightly to the driver's side of straight forward (where the fan is in the way), or go around the back side of the alternator. The OD of the hose bib on my OE part is about 1.315" and the ID is slightly larger than 1"

If this was a crawler I'd have done something totally different and more protected with the pump & filter placement. I'd expect to eventually mangle them there with that type of use. In my expected use I really only see gravel/grit sprayed off the front tires as being a threat to the forward ends of the HP pump and filter. The 'wings' around the marine filter should be enough to keep it safe from that spray.
 
Minor update, the CNC plasma guy was not happy with his first part, his machine isn't cutting how he thinks that it should. So I took the material and the part files to a water jet company that he recommended. I hope to hear something from them by mid week.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom