Build My 69' 55

[ConspicuousPig]

Once the race is removed from the Nitrogen you only have a moment to get it in place. I made sure that the bore receiving the race was good and clean before I reached for the race. This ensures a good fit the first time.

Still frosty!

That's as far as I got today. But have do have plans to continue tomorrow

 

[DTC72]

Great thread! Makes me feel like I could do this work on my 69 FJ55. Only problem is I don’t have a shop, space in my three car garage, and only basic tools....oh, and only YouTube mechanic level skills. Ha!

 

[RUSH55]

Bearing heaters and liquid nitrogen are a Godsend. Most of the time we’ll throw a race in the freezer overnight but have used the nitrogen on bigger jobs.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

Great thread! Makes me feel like I could do this work on my 69 FJ55. Only problem is I don’t have a shop, space in my three car garage, and only basic tools....oh, and only YouTube mechanic level skills. Ha!

A Manual is a must!! but other than that, A Dial indicator, a Pinion Preload metering Wrench and a Bearing Puller are the only tools that I would consider to be "essential" in this process, so far... Things like the Bearing Heater and Liquid Nitrogen are really just luxury items. A heated shop with a parts washer is also just another luxury item. I guess that a shop press could also be considered an essential piece of equipment but in a pinch a guy could use a large bench top vise for pressing on new bearings. However, I wouldn't recommend it.

I am pretty sure you could purchase a Dial Indicator for around $60 and you should be able to Rent bearing pullers from your local auto parts stores. I have added links below.

Now, I do not consider this build thread (My 69' 55) to be a "how to" by any means, more for entertainment purposes only. But if you are interested is doing this to your rear axle I say Go For It! just do your homework first and don't rush anything. I am about 2 weeks into this one and am only about half way to completion. There are a few good vids on YouTube.


Here is a good informational YouTube video:

FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, FJ60, FJ62, FJ80, UZJ100 Open Differential, 1958-2006 Land Cruiser, Front and Rear - Specter Off-Road

Toyota Land Cruiser parts since 1983. From the oldest FJ25 and to the newest Land Cruiser, Non USA or domestic 40 Series, 60 Series 80 Series or 100 Series, SOR has the largest selection of top quality new and used OEM and aftermarket Land Cruiser parts in stock in the world. Specializing in...

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Amazon product ASIN B0000DD0VA

Performance Tool 1/4in Drive 0-80 in/lb Torque Wrench

Shop for Performance Tool 1/4in Drive 0-80 in/lb Torque Wrench with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.

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https://www.oreillyauto.com/shop/b/tools---equipment-16488/mechanics-tools-16816/pullers-17274/bearing-pullers-19623/12b0346fe368

I am really stoked that you guys are enjoying my build thread! Thanks for all the support!

 

[ConspicuousPig]

I installed the wheel bearing today. I began by inserting a thrust washer into the axle housing, then I tapped the bearing into place using a dead blow hammer until it was flush to the outside of the axle housing and then I finished driving the bearings in using a brass punch.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

 

[ConspicuousPig]

Now back to the Ring and Pinion install. I achieved this pattern in three attempts. When I orginally disassembled the third member I removed 0.55mm worth of Position Adjust shims from behind the inner bearing race (one 0.25mm shim and one 0.30mm shim).
I also removed two 0.30mm Pinion Adjusting Shims from the Pinion.
I reinstalled the old shim configuration onto the new pinion (two 0.30mm) as well as behind the inner bearing race (0.55mm). And after following all instructions, when I checked the new gear contact I had too much toe contact. I made adjustments by removing the 0.25mm Position Adj. Shim from the inner race as well as removing one 0.30mm Pinion adj. Shim.
This put the contact right on the edge of the toe side. On my third attempt, I then replaced the 0.30mm Position Adj. Shim with the 0.25mm the was previously removed as well as replaced the remaining 0.30mm Pinion Adjusting Shim with one 0.25mm Pinion Adjusting Shim.
This configuration gave me the contact that you see here. I am happy with it! Its not too high, not too deep, not too right and not too left.
Also, when setting the backlash for the spider gears I was way out of tolerance. Something like 30 thousandths out. When supposed to be within (0.0008" - 0.0079"). I ordered new Side Gear Thrust Washers from FJPARTS.COM, yesterday. They are great folks to deal with. The washers shipped same day so I will begin reinstallation of the third member on the axle housing as soon as they arrive.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

$12 from SOR (Spector Off Road)

 

[ConspicuousPig]

These are from the section that pertains to my 69' semi float rear axle.
The Photos were taken from the worlds s***ty-est camera phone

 

[ConspicuousPig]

 

[ConspicuousPig]

 

[ConspicuousPig]

Uh oh, I may have let the 69's steering wheel get away it was installed in the 72' when I sold it. I had no idea. I am still in contact with the guy i sold it to so I will try to make an offer for getting it back. I am pretty sure that i do still have the original grill though. I will post a photo of it later today.
[/QUOTE

I Got the original steering wheel form the 69' today!!!! I am so excited to put it back in where it belongs! I contacted the guy I sold the 72' to and he said "sure, no problem!" I am Extremely grateful for the returned wheel. Thank you Lucas!!

 

[ConspicuousPig]

While I continue to wait for my differential Side Thrust Washers to arrive I decided to work on the brake system. I began by bench bleeding the master cylinder. Notice that I am using a pair of aluminum soft jaws in the vice to help protect the master cylinders mounting surface. A couple of blocks of wood would also work well here.
I couldn't find my brake bleeder kit so I had to use an old fitting for this bleeding process. I simply cut the old line, rotated it 90° to and compressed it with my pliers to open the hole and allow fluid to passage through, i slipped some tight fitting transparent hose over the old brake line and then threaded the setup into the master cylinder. If you have dual reservoirs you will need to do this for both ports.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

.... insert the open end of the hose into the reservoir and add brake fluid. Slowly and with even pressure depress the piston several times in and out until there are no longer bubbles seen traveling in the rubber hose. Depress it a couple more time just to be sure. Then remove the hose and the old brake line. Install the caps and the lid back on the reservoir. Now your done! Keep the master cylinder upright the entire time as you transport it from the bench until you install it. This will ensure that no air will get trapped anywhere in the cylinder.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

I had Erik at Pasific Rubber in Eugene make all the hoses and hard lines! A worthwhile expense. I was going to do it myself but they made the so perfect I have no regrets having them do it. I afraid the Mine would have not been very nice at all.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

I received the new side gear thrust washers and installed them on the gears. I had achieved the backlash I was after but when I went to install the pin and spacer block, the block was too thick.... just by a hair. Im guessing it was because the spacer thickness was on the heavy side? Nevertheless it wasn't going to fit. I stared at it for a couple of minutes and figured that all the spacer block is really doing is acting as a retainer to the C-Clips on the ends of the axle shafts. So I made a bold decision and removed some material from that spacer block piece. Here is a before/after the cut on the milling machine.

The material was really hard. I had to cut it very slow and it turned out with a mirror like finish.
I wish that I had measured the exact amount of material that was removed but I don't know for sure. Probably only a couple thousandths. I installed it and it gave the axle shafts a little bit of play between the ends of the shafts and the spacer. Again, I wish that I would've slipped a feeler gauge in to measure that gap.

I installed the axle and rear suspension, hooked up the brakes. Adjusted and bleed them. I have driven the 55 for about thirty miles or so. The rearend feels and sounds great! No strange noises or vibrations. I felt the temperature of the diff cover with my hand and it doesn't feel hot to the touch after driving around for awhile. I am happy with the results. It feels good to be driving again!

 

[DTC72]

Must have felt great to get the pig in the road even if only for 30 miles!

 

[ConspicuousPig]

Must have felt great to get the pig in the road even if only for 30 miles!

Yeah, it feels great to be on the road again! I’ve been moving forward on The interior. I have ordered a new headliner, windshield seal, and both cargo window seals. I am having a “custom made” saddle blanket style seat cover made and it should be on its way soon. I have all the paint removed from the inside and will be repainting with a marine grade paint on the floor pan an soon as I finish addressing the rust that has takin residence over the past years. I have been struggling to properly document the progress this last few week but will update with photos once my smartphone is operational again.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

It has been a while since my last post but a lot has been done to the 69' 55.
I added:
- finished sanding and rust repairs to the floor pan, B pillars, etc...
- painted the interior
- added a carpet kit (diy from rubber backed industrial entry mats)
- added a remote differential breather manifold (diffs/trans/transfer)
- finished installing the OME suspension
- installed the new headliner
- installed new seat covers
- finished the brakes
- found some wheels and mounted new tires
- installed new door panels
- and lots more little things here and there.

The truck drives Awesome!!!
here are a few photos from the past few months.

 

[ConspicuousPig]

These photos were taken from the rear inner roof just above the tailgate window. This area is prone to Cancer so I thought before installing the headliner that I would address it by taking some preventive measures. Fortunately in my case the here was not that bad. Just some surface rust that needed to be removed and treated. I simply cut away the layers of metal to gain access to the inner cavity of the ceiling. I treated it with rust dissolver and then coated it with POR-15. Hopefully this will prevent rust from ever take hold there. Once I treated the area I replaced the metal that I removed and sprayed the welds with Rust-Oleum primer and paint.