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- #301
After more than 12 years, I’m really looking forward to having 4WD that I can really use again. Been far too long.
Builds My 40 Build... 20 years and Counting... Purists beware, this may hurt... :D (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter bikersmurf
- Start date
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- #302
Anyone seen a bracket like this one before?
Any guesses what it’s for?
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- #303
What… no takers?
Should hold it securely. Even beating on it with a hammer to “adjust” it will barely make it move.
When the weather is a touch dryer I’ll hit the axle with a splash of paint and it’ll be “done”.
Should hold it securely. Even beating on it with a hammer to “adjust” it will barely make it move.
When the weather is a touch dryer I’ll hit the axle with a splash of paint and it’ll be “done”.
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- #304
I replaced my hatch handle with a used one back around '94. A few years back it broke... So I ordered a replacement before Christmas and it arrived today.
Package arrived today straight from Japan. Wrapped up very well with brown fiber reinforced tape over every seam and around the middle. Not surprisingly it arrived safe and sound.
Package arrived today straight from Japan. Wrapped up very well with brown fiber reinforced tape over every seam and around the middle. Not surprisingly it arrived safe and sound.
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- #305
Removed the old bench and started fabricating some brackets to mount the 2003 TJ seat.
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- #306
A bit more prep and then I’ll hit them with some paint. Only thing I’ve not decided yet is if I’ll tack in the mounting bolts. If I don’t then I can use the impact for 6 of the 8 bolts from the top. I’ll have to check how access looks from below the floor.
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- #307
I’m about 6’5” with shoes on and can fit fairly comfortably behind the drivers seat with it all the way back. I’ll be installing seat belts for 3… although it would be more comfortable to seat only 2 adults. The top of the seat is higher than the wheel wells so there’s some extra room there if needed. In a pinch cushions could be added to the top of the fenders like some of the cruisers with forward facing benches.
The seat is on a quick release and can easily be removed. The remaining brackets can be used as cargo tie down points when the seat is out. They are probably strong enough to hold an engine down back there if needed. I’ve had +/- 600 lbs of slate tile back there, and the 40 didn’t even break a sweat.
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- Thread starter
- #308
When I started pulling things apart to paint the hinges I found that nothing was painted… all bare metal. So I slid down the slippery slope and stripped the upholstery and hit it with paint.
It’s a 7/10 paint job, but since it’ll never see the light of day again, it’ll do. After it has cured for a few years, I’ll probably touch up a couple thin spots.
It doesn’t get any tighter to the front seat than this. Tumbled forward it just touches the driver’s seat.
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- #309
Painted the relay rod and installed it with a new set of TREs. First time in 32 years it has had a new set of TREs. Probably hit them with some paint soon too.
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- #310
Slow but sure…
Painted… just need to grab some pushpins and an tape measure to set the toe in.
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- #311
Before I pulled out the pins and tape to set the Toe in…
Before L 36.5”.
Before R 36.7”.
After L 37.6”.
After R 37.8”.
I’m not sure if I like the shackles at 4.5”, but I’ll try them out before cutting them down to 3.5”. The castor shims correct the castor… and they lift the front 1” and will allow for extra droop.
Before L 36.5”.
Before R 36.7”.
After L 37.6”.
After R 37.8”.
I’m not sure if I like the shackles at 4.5”, but I’ll try them out before cutting them down to 3.5”. The castor shims correct the castor… and they lift the front 1” and will allow for extra droop.
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After watching and reading your stuff for the last 2 years…something caught me eye today… “purists beware”
You have some really great ideas and implement them well….had to tell you that..
You have some really great ideas and implement them well….had to tell you that..
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- #313
Thsnks,After watching and reading your stuff for the last 2 years…something caught me eye today… “purists beware”
You have some really great ideas and implement them well….had to tell you that..
I started with a beater that I paid about $1000 USD for. Back in ‘92 I couldn’t just order a new tub and didn’t have the budget for one either. Over the years, through a lot of good fortune, and a little luck… it has become a great little truck. The extra weight in the back has improved the ride quality… and also helps with traction.
I’m planning on insuring and driving it for a while without messing with it too much. I’ve got a TPI setup with a stand alone harness to prep for installation… I think I have almost every I need including a spare intake or two.
Since I have ‘72 heads and an ‘87 manifold, I’ll need to modify the centre two holes on each sine of the manifold to match the head angle. I have been told it is fairly easy to do… the air file and die grinder should make it easy.
I plan to have all the prep work done so that it won’t take much longer than swapping manifolds… perhaps next year. I’m hoping that there aren’t any issues with making the stock system work because finding someone who knows how to fix it may be harder than finding someone else who can fix a carb.
‘Define Irony” … Garland Green…Con Air the movie
Sadly, in 1992 , parts were probably available so much easier but like events in my own life, I would not have been able to buy them anyway. Fortunately after 51 years of busting my butt, 33 years at the same job….the turn around came. I don’t know which was worse. For what some FJ40’s and 45’s are selling for today I should have bought 6 of them and stuffed them in the garage.
And then, you hear words like “unobtainium”
Sadly, in 1992 , parts were probably available so much easier but like events in my own life, I would not have been able to buy them anyway. Fortunately after 51 years of busting my butt, 33 years at the same job….the turn around came. I don’t know which was worse. For what some FJ40’s and 45’s are selling for today I should have bought 6 of them and stuffed them in the garage.
And then, you hear words like “unobtainium”
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- #315
Some not as unobtainium as you might think...
Good quality reproduction... same P/N as Landcruiser parts.
And City Racer also.
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- #316
Well after sitting far too long in the driveway, I Insured the 40.. Everything seemed fine driving around the block, but after a burn on the highway I started smelling hot brake pads. Limped it home and pulled off one of the callipers.
Started pulling pistons. The first piston that came loose looked great. The second not so good… and 3rd and 4th wouldn’t budge. So for $78/side they are gonna be cores.
I did rebuild the first set of callipers when I did my disc brake conversion in 94osh and the lasted more than 20 years (95k miles) on the first set of brake pads. These have nowhere near that… but the parts to rebuild them will likely cost about the same as reman ones.
When I converted the rear brakes, the callipers were $21 a side… now the same shop wants $85-100 a side. I’m going to check another shop… but I’ll probably inspect them rather than just buying replacements before looking at them. If I could get them at Rock Autos 17-21 a side, I’d just replace them so I don’t have to think about them.
I still have new rotors and pads on the shelf since I last did the fronts. Since I’d have to pull the FF hubs off I’d rather save the complete rear brake job for a different day… if I find a better price on rear callipers I’ll replace them and use the old pads and rotors till it’s time to redo the rear hubs.
Started pulling pistons. The first piston that came loose looked great. The second not so good… and 3rd and 4th wouldn’t budge. So for $78/side they are gonna be cores.
I did rebuild the first set of callipers when I did my disc brake conversion in 94osh and the lasted more than 20 years (95k miles) on the first set of brake pads. These have nowhere near that… but the parts to rebuild them will likely cost about the same as reman ones.
When I converted the rear brakes, the callipers were $21 a side… now the same shop wants $85-100 a side. I’m going to check another shop… but I’ll probably inspect them rather than just buying replacements before looking at them. If I could get them at Rock Autos 17-21 a side, I’d just replace them so I don’t have to think about them.
I still have new rotors and pads on the shelf since I last did the fronts. Since I’d have to pull the FF hubs off I’d rather save the complete rear brake job for a different day… if I find a better price on rear callipers I’ll replace them and use the old pads and rotors till it’s time to redo the rear hubs.
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- #317
I was thinking I’d take my 40 for a parts run if it proved to be roadworthy, but the frozen callipers put an end to that.
I was interested in the hatch and front doors. The seller said he wanted to get rid of all the spare parts left after his 40 build. So I drove the hour+ up to the sellers house to look at things in person.
After quickly looking over the collection, I made a cash offer for the lot… and he accepted.
Nothing will happen anytime soon, but solid parts are rare up here, and the cost of shipping on top of what many sellers are asking these days usually make them out of reach.
Before I swapped in the 350, I had made a sealed air box that drew air from inside the cab… but it was too restrictive for the 8. I never considered buying a Safari or ARB snorkel… $450ish +shipping USD is more than they are worth to me.
In this pile of parts there was a Safari one.,. Bonus. I’ll probably sell off the decent/fixable sides to offset what I paid and getting them ready to go on the truck.
I have gone through a water crossing that was higher than it usually was… as in 3’ higher. On another trip, I went through a water crossing that had the front of the hood under water. I ended up with water inside my headlights… and the engine stalled shortly after exiting the pit. Fortunately it didn't swallow much... only a few drops.
I’d really hate to hydraulic a motor 2 hours off the road..
I was interested in the hatch and front doors. The seller said he wanted to get rid of all the spare parts left after his 40 build. So I drove the hour+ up to the sellers house to look at things in person.
After quickly looking over the collection, I made a cash offer for the lot… and he accepted.
Nothing will happen anytime soon, but solid parts are rare up here, and the cost of shipping on top of what many sellers are asking these days usually make them out of reach.
Before I swapped in the 350, I had made a sealed air box that drew air from inside the cab… but it was too restrictive for the 8. I never considered buying a Safari or ARB snorkel… $450ish +shipping USD is more than they are worth to me.
In this pile of parts there was a Safari one.,. Bonus. I’ll probably sell off the decent/fixable sides to offset what I paid and getting them ready to go on the truck.
I have gone through a water crossing that was higher than it usually was… as in 3’ higher. On another trip, I went through a water crossing that had the front of the hood under water. I ended up with water inside my headlights… and the engine stalled shortly after exiting the pit. Fortunately it didn't swallow much... only a few drops.
I’d really hate to hydraulic a motor 2 hours off the road..
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- Thread starter
- #318
Replaced the front calipers on the front with Raybestos, loaded, Reman calipers for $68/side (CDN). They were cheaper and faster than rebuilding the old calipers.
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- #319
I ordered these a few years back… along with paper gaskets for the rear FF axle. Ordered the from Australia.
Before…
After… no longer looking like it has 235k miles or perhaps even 335k miles. It had about 35k miles showing in ‘91… and based on condition it was at least 135k miles. And I’ve also driven it 100k+ miles since then.
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- #320
Some years we don’t see any snow. This last week we have had a few inches. The ice has been the worst I've seen in a long time. The 40 did awesome until it stopped idling right.
I've been running an Edelbrock 1406 for several years now. It had sat long enough that some gas had gone bad in it. I'd pulled the top off a couple times and cleaned out a couple times previously and got it working right. This last weak the idle circuit got clogged up again. I pulled off the top again and found that the fuel bowls had fresh & clean gas in them. I cleaned them out any way, and then filled both of them with Sea Foam. After letting it soak for a few minutes, I put the carb back together and started it up. It still wasn't running quite right though.
So... I carefully screwed in the mixture screws while counting the number of turns till they just seat and then took them out. I blew compressed air down the holes and then screwed the screws all the way in and then backed them out 1.5 turns each. It ran well enough to adjust the carb, and now it purrs like a kitten. It runs so much better... which leads me to believe the passages had been partially restricted.
When I first adjusted it it was idling well, but after it was at full operating temperature the idle was higher after moderate acceleration, but it was low after it had been idling for a while or after repeated light throttle.
My hunch was that the idle too rich. As I turned the screws in the idle speed rose... confirming my hypothesis. I proceeded to adjust the mixture and idle speed, and now it's running as it should.
Our cat on his favorite perch
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