My 3B turbo build. Keeping it cheap without cutting corners.

[cody c]

The wire loom is a bit further away than it looks in the pic, I have to find where I left the header wrap and clean up those wires some time soon, but it has not yet been a problem.


Yes thats an airbag, there's a couple pics here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/407556-codys-slow-white-80-re-build.html

For IC piping, it might be better to TIG, but you can get around most of it that with silicon couplers.

If you did want to cut and paste stainless you could always tack the pieces together and then take them to a shop for them to TIG them.

Or if you got the money gianttech has a decent looking combo plasma/tig/stick machine for about 6 hundy.

 

[KingSpence]

See the thing is with me, if it's going to cost me a couple hundred bucks to have a shop do the work, I would rather just fork out the cash and go buy a TIG for future use. We'll see.

I started on the manifold last night, I'm about halfway done. I need to weld the flange on, then mock it up in the truck to decide where the T3 flange is going to get placed. I can't believe how easy this is. The flange came in at $100 at the waterjet.

I'm running Autometer Pyro, water temp, oil pressure, and boost respectively. I paid $75 for the gauge and $25 for the mounting cup. Averaged out, I think I'm $400-$450 all in for gauges. Here's a few fuzzy photos, I'll try to take some better shots when the truck comes in the garage tonight.

 

[ForealBoreal]

Looking good
I recently said screw it and started putting together my turbo build list
Heck of a lot cheaper than a kit

 

[KingSpence]

Looking good
I recently said screw it and started putting together my turbo build list
Heck of a lot cheaper than a kit

If you take the time to source everything yourself it can prove to be much cheaper while still retaining quality. Plus you save on the markup of everything in a kit. If anyone is interested in a 3B flange, you can call WaterJet Ltd. in Edmonton, AB and it's programmed in their system as "Spencer flange". These trucks are super easy to turbo, much easier than any gas jobber that's for sure; it's good experience and fun at the same time.

WaterJet Ltd.
8107 Wagner Rd Nw,
Edmonton AB,
T6E 4N6

Phone: (780)-466-9600
Fax: (780)-461-4648

 

[jzilla]

Looking good, you might want to weld in a divider between the 2nd and 3rd exhaust port so that the exhaust gases don't interfere with each other...maybe you thought of that already though

 

[KingSpence]

Looking good, you might want to weld in a divider between the 2nd and 3rd exhaust port so that the exhaust gases don't interfere with each other...maybe you thought of that already though

That was my main concern with the box tube design, but I was convinced that it wouldn't be an issue for what the truck is and the power I'm aiming for. Even the factory 13b-t manifold seems like a pretty basic log design.

 

[jzilla]

the 13bt does have a little lip in it in the middle, not much of one though

 

[KingSpence]

I made tons of progress last night. Started off by pulling the pan. A quick inspection of the bottom end gave me the go-ahead to start tearing into everything else. I'm using 2x2 1/8in box steel. I started off by cutting the four holes for the exhaust ports using a 1.75in hole saw. I notched my ends at a 45 degree angle. From there I tacked on the flange and test fitted it on the engine. Like I said before, I'll make my final decision on where the turbo flange will sit once the manifold is on the truck, and my turbo elbow is installed.

Started things off by assuring myself how good a turbo looks under the hood.

Manifold progress:

This is where I called it a night. I fiddled around with the downpipe for over an hour. These turbo's have a factory 2.5in flex pipe on the back of the turbo, with that on there I'll be in the firewall before the elbow will fit. I did some shopping today, I think I found a solution.

This is the most straightforward turbo setup I have ever done. Maybe it's because it's a truck and not a car, maybe because I can sit on my butt on the floor while I reach up and undo all the oil pan bolts with ease.

 

[amaurer]

Hot damn thats a good lookin manifold.

 

[KingSpence]

Hot damn thats a good lookin manifold.

Thanks dood!


Well, the manifold is done and on the truck, the waterlines have been re-routed, and the oil pan is finished and back on the truck. Progress is coming along nicely. I must say though, this has become more expensive than I originally thought; but I'm willing to pay for a reliable setup. I picked up a Nikon D60 as well, so from here on in expect some high quality photography.

Original positioning of the hoses. I rotated the top piece to angle toward the firewall, and I ran my hose between the firewall and heater control. As for the lower peice, I shopped it off at the bottom of the "U". I'll run both hoses from there up tying into the original piping in front of the alternator. Pictures will make more sense once it's done I know.

After the modifying:

Turbo goodness:

I still need to rotate the snail to level.

Drain fitted to the pan:

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

Soooo close! Keep going brotha.

(remember to hose clamp the throttle body hoses!)

 

[KingSpence]

Well, she's almost done. I got almost everything together, and tried starting it up to check for leaks before installing the intake box and all the accessories. I took it up and down my street, I can't believe how nice it sounds; it's orgasmic to the ears. I don't really feel any more power than before, but I also didn't have my boost gauge hooked up yet and didn't leave second gear. My exhaust is also quieter, but still deep.

I'm super happy, tomorrow I'll hook up the boost gauge, tidy everything up and play around with the fuel. how many turns on the pump do you guys usually go with (no DHAC)?

 

[crushers]

once you hit third you will feel the difference, you might have to crank the fuel a bit. just adding air does little unless you were overfueling before.

nice job, congrats.

 

[UZJ40]

Nice looking build... I will be following along. Still having thoughts of going diesel...

 

[jzilla]

Nice work Spence! Try a half or quarter turn at time, watch the pyro. I remember when I first drove mine I was not impressed until I touched the fuel, makes a huge difference!

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

What I did:

Set your waste gate..... this means getting the boost up to your desired level. Doubt youll be able to raise 10lbs with stock fueling.

Once you get say 10lbs..... increase fuel while keeping an eye on the pyro.

I had mine about 3/4 and it pulled great but I could hit 1200f (pre turbo) on the long hills.
When I added an intercooler I didn't touch the fuel, now I can't raise more than 1100 on the pyro.
I could turn the fuel up more but I'm happy at this setting.

Every engine is different though.

Are you running a muffler? If so, get rid of it and the tailpipe will really whistle.

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

Oh yeah, heat shields are a good idea too.
I made one out of bits of the OEM heat shield, The other is stainless sheet metal.

 

[KingSpence]

So she ran today, took it around my town for a maiden voyage, hoping to open the thermostat before hitting any hills to load it up and tune. I see 10psi pretty quick. By no means is it fast, it goes up hills now, and accelerates to 80km/h (highest I took it) smoothly and somewhat quick. I later came rolling up to a light and checked the gauges, 0psi on the oil pressure; I took a double glance at it and killled the engine instantly. I got out to see a pool of oil and a trail of oil about 100m back. I got the truck flat towed home by a buddy. I had 3L of oil in the pan still, I caught the gauge quick. It turns out the oil feed line off the block blew off, I guess you can't leave the electrical tape on the -AN fittings or they will slip and blow off. I was constantly on the gauges, I didn't have low oil pressure for any more than 10 seconds max.

I think I caught it soon enough, I filled it with oil when I got home and fixed the fitting and I see 65psi cold idle and 78psi at 1800rpm cold with 15w40. I think I'm good. Should I still pull the pan and pull caps?

I gave the pump 3/4 turns. It blows black when I romp on it, but I haven't actually had time to check egt's under load because of the before said major issue. All I can say is thank god for aftermarket gauges that give you accurate readings on engine vitals, because stock gauges probably would have cost me an engine.

 

[crushers]

i wouldn't be concerned, if you still had 3 l left then you will be fine ....
so...
it blows black
but
does it move you now?

 

[jzilla]

That is too bad to hear! Glad you stopped in time!
I would say the turbo is more about accelerating faster and being able to go up inclines without having to downshift (is the big one for me). I can maintain my speed in 5th on slight inclines without having to drop into 4th. Instead of going up some parts of the coq highway in 2nd I can do them in 3rd.
Look forward to more results...