My 2H is trashed (1 Viewer)

[vwluv10338]

Ok, so I am working today but I need a break. My forearms feel like they are about to explode from installing my liners.

Liners in 10 lbs of dry ice @ -109F

Two down, four to go:

And for your viewing pleasure I made a short video of installing my third liner. Sorry I didnt realize I was out of the frame so much in the begining. I shot it with my Iphone sitting in my roll cart. I figured I would come inside and take a rest while I let the block get back up to ambient temp. Once a liner goes in it chills the block pretty bad. The diesel machinest I talked to said not to bother trying to heat up the block. However, right now I have it sitting in front of my powdercoat oven with the temp on its lowest setting just to I can get a little heat into it.

VIDEO:

 

[VTCDN]

Dang ..
Your Brave , Myself I would of used a press , made or the shop one.

I hate hammers / shock / missing and it's to late.

I have damaged when misstruct things.

Didn't look that hard striking it for the movement of the liner, yes i can see the arm burn from repetition, But your a young man.

How is the measurement of liner / piston after installation ? Are you going to machine out the liners yourself ? I posted a pix of mine , that i have used on tractors

.
I use a heavy duty slow drill , hang the drill and hone on a cable with a large spring , that is so my body is not holding the work.


VT

 

[vwluv10338]

VT,
I havent taken any internal measurements yet. I was planning on taking it to a machine shop for a bore and hone.

 

[vwluv10338]

DONE!!

Well the last one went in much easier. It had been on ice for about 3 hours. Since it was the last one in the cooler I had it backed full of ice and then just about buried in it. I think that made a big difference because I had it about half way in before I had to use much force to keep it moving.

I also took a few measurements and it looks like I need to have around .030" bored out. I will need to figure out an exact spec with what piston clearence I am going to run. I think I might just give the machinest one piston and the book spec on bore/piston clearence and let him take the measurements.

 

[lostmarbles]

Tremendous!

It scared hell out of me when the wood fell away and I saw you continuing hammering with the block supported only at one end by the engine stand bolts though. (You needed a helper.)

And I expected to see a bigger hammer (with the addition of a block of wood to take the jarring out of the blows) ... But then they went in easily enough with that small hammer.

I would have expected temperature-equalisation (due to your slow insertion speed) to have caused them to stick midway but apart from the first few blows (which got good movement) each blow from then on seemed to get a uniform (although minimal)movement .

You've broken new ground on this forum by fitting your own liners and I am sure many others here are as grateful as I am for the video and pics.

I have the same brand liners as you used sitting in my box of spares.

I think if I follow your lead, I'll pre-warm my block too (in front of a bar-heater) and use a big puller device fitted with a wrench that enables me to wind in each liner non-stop in one smooth action. (Well... At least that would be my plan.)

 

[vwluv10338]

Tremendous!

It scared **** out of me when the wood fell away and I saw you continuing hammering with the block supported only at one end by the engine stand bolts though. (You needed a helper.)

And I expected to see a bigger hammer (with the addition of a block of wood to take the jarring out of the blows) ... But then they went in easily enough with that small hammer.

I would have expected temperature-equalisation (due to your slow insertion speed) to have caused them to stick midway but apart from the first few blows (which got good movement) each blow from then on seemed to get a uniform (although minimal)movement .

You've broken new ground on this forum by fitting your own liners and I am sure many others here are as grateful as I am for the video and pics.

I have the same brand liners as you used sitting in my box of spares.

I think if I follow your lead, I'll pre-warm my block too (in front of a bar-heater) and use a big puller device fitted with a wrench that enables me to wind in each liner non-stop in one smooth action. (Well... At least that would be my plan.)

Yeah, I didnt like when the wood fell out but I had no choice but to keep going. The machinist said I would only have around 15 seconds of working time once they were out of the ice. On the first liner I tried using a block of wood between the hammer and the aluminum but after a couple of blows I realized it didnt seem to be transfering enough energy into the liners. Since time was short I just dropped it and kept going without it.
For anyone that wants to try this I can't stress enough that the last one I did was significantly easier. I wish I had setup a camera for that one because it was so different from the rest. If I had to do it over again I would buy more dry ice and pack the insides and the outsides of the liners untill they were completely covered. Then I would leave them for 3 hours. I paid $1.09 per lb for the dry ice and got a total of around 12 lbs. I would have spent a little more and gotten twice that much.

Also, you need to bring the temp of the liners down slowly. I set them up in the cooler and just started pouring the ice in. Man, I have never heard metal scream like that. I couldnt believe the noises that the liners were making. I was very concerned they were going to crack. Because of this I moved the dry ice to the other side of the cooler to bring the temp of the metal down. After about an hour I could fill the liners with ice without them making any noise.

 

[VTCDN]

I would measure all pistons X - / Y and if there out by over .002 " take all 6 for a piston match bore.

Your Lucky again on the liner insertion ..

And with Lost's plan , You couldn't find a small press for the price like i posted on this thread ?
there nice for other jobs also. ""(Well... At least that would be my plan.)"".


Good job .VT

 

[vwluv10338]

From what I can tell my pistons measuring out at exactly 91mm. I think I am going to take one to the shop and have him measure it just to be sure.

 

[gerg]

Im very impressed how you smacked them liners in medievil style. However, I too think that a small cheap ass press would have been better though, for you and the liners. I would check your liner protrusion as well as see how much difference is between each one. Great job!
g

 

[amaurer]

Awesome!

 

[vwluv10338]

So I dropped the block off at the machine shop today.

Done:
Hot tank Head
Magnaflux Head

Need to do:
Hot tank Block
Bore/Hone
Install Cam bearings

Install precups
Deck head (Slightly)

My dad dropped off the head for me so I never actually went to the shop. It was pretty cool, they had all kinds of stuff there. I am not sure how they keep it all straight but they seemed to know what they were doing.

Check out the head that is standing up and the connecting rod in the lower right of the picture. 5.9L Cummins on the palette on the left.

 

[VTCDN]

Con rod looks like its from an EMD or 149 GM Screaming Demon .

So the Pre-cups , Since i see that they like to drop , and everyone surfaces the head.

Think of this vwluv10338 since your a Master T , Spec calls for protrusion of cup , so it's held in place , and the firing pressure won't allow movement. You install your cups Hopefully not medieval style, and grind them flat , next is alls running and were going to the best offroad / swimming hole etc and the cup drops because there was no cup protrusion , holding the cup in tightly. Your liner protrusion / fire ring bites into the crush gasket , and the pre-cup is under forced pressure from that and the cup protrusion.

Tell me who was moving here :

This one is surfaced , but the cups look either not touched and installed after , or one is below head deck.

Remember when cast iron engines really didn't need surfacing ?? use a straight edge , check , if its out more than spec allows. heat and straighten (so EZ) ..



VT

 

[vwluv10338]

VT,
They are not going to deck it in the normal sence. I have pics earlier on where I used a straight edge and my head is in spec. He is just going to run it enough to clean up the surface. As for the precups, I read on here somewhere where Jon from Radd said to deck it after precup install. The spec doesnt call for protrusion exactly. It is 0-0.10mm (0-0.0039"). If I am at 0 then I should be good. I believe precups fall after they crack in half and part falls into the cylinder correct? Not improper protrusion. That is at least my understanding. I have pics of the stock precups before I took them out of the head. They had cracks in them so I figured this was the best course.


P.S. Standard operating procedure on these is a hammer

 

[amaurer]

This one is surfaced , but the cups look either not touched and installed after , or one is below head deck.

Thats my head, and it was decked with the cups installed - they were ground too. As vwluv says, the factory spec is a maximum protrusion, not a minimum - perfectly flat is perfectly fine as far as Toyota is concerned.

Been working fine since.

 

[gerg]

I guess if you have significant liner protrusion, enough to crush directly onto the cup, that would hold even a cup flush to the head from moving. Flush cup with no liner protrusion and that little cup is going to wiggle in and out. That sound disconcerting.
g

 

[VTCDN]

Thats my head, and it was decked with the cups installed - they were ground too. As vwluv says, the factory spec is a maximum protrusion, not a minimum - perfectly flat is perfectly fine as far as Toyota is concerned.

Been working fine since.

CORRECT !

But the cups must be at total installed in, not just wacked in and then ground.
They need to be heat set. then cooled wit a drawn in , It's used , not a new install.




Liner protrusion / fire ring is not going to touch the pre-cup. gerg..

I'm just trying to help , if you don't like , ????? Next , don't bring it to our shop.
Just my opinion , grease under fingers still.

VT

 

[vwluv10338]

I have been playing with some new powder today.

Dirty side plate:

I always get excited and forget a shot once I bead blast it.

Shot it almost chrome powder coat

After cure:

First coat of tanslucent black "Black Chrome"

I had a bit of trouble getting the clear to stick and it wouldnt lay evenly. It had a bit of a cool fade from one side to the other but that was not what I was going for.

Second coat of black clear going on:

I think it came out a little too black this time. Again I was having trouble with it just blowing the powder off. I had to get far away and blast a bunch of powder in the air and let it fall onto the piece. Oh well. I could have shot it in gloss black but I wanted to try out this powder. I think it would be awesome to mix in a little of the gold I have into the black but that would be for a different project.

The color never looks the same in the pics

 

[vwluv10338]

I finished the other side plate today. I welded in a nut and added a turbo drain. I didn't feel like going through all the steps for black chrome so this one is just gloss black.

 

[amaurer]

How high up is your turbo? That'll be an awfully short drain, no?

 

[vwluv10338]

How high up is your turbo? That'll be an awfully short drain, no?

Its going on a flipped manifold so yeah it will be a high. I liked the idea of gaing into the side plate because you could pull it off easier than the oil pan. Easier to replace if you screw it up. However, none of that really matters since my engine is apart. After doing it I think it might have been easier to weld on the pan with less chance of warping.

Will look like this from this thread :
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/252407-turbo-2h-build-thread.html