My 2H is trashed

[vwluv10338]

I'd go with the 12HT, but I suppose I am biased

All it takes is an offer I can't refuse

 

[vwluv10338]

Quick Question!

What is the best way to pull this engine? It seems like a lot of people pull the engine, trans, t-case as one unit. Is that easier? I was going to just unbolt the engine and try to slide it foreward off of the input shaft. One problem I have is air conditioning. I have an condenser that I cant remove. I pulled the radiator last night but I didnt think about recovering my AC system before I started pullling the head off last month.

 

[VTCDN]

Call a mobile sucker for the freon ,if need be, replace all r12 "O" rings that need to be done for the retro fit.

The tunnel shiftier cover needs to be pulled for the 2 top rear ward bell housing to block bolts. 4x4 between front springs to hold up droopy trany nose after sliding out the block.

So What Was WHAT decisions

VT

 

[vwluv10338]

Call a mobile sucker for the freon ,if need be, replace all r12 "O" rings that need to be done for the retro fit.

The tunnel shiftier cover needs to be pulled for the 2 top rear ward bell housing to block bolts. 4x4 between front springs to hold up droopy trany nose after sliding out the block.

So What Was WHAT decisions

VT

No matter what I decide it has to come out right? The head is going to the shop next week to be crack tested. That will help the decision.

 

[vwluv10338]

Engine coming out

Started tearing it down.

Found this little gem. I guess they thought it was leaking.

Its funny because the bolt goes nowhere. It doesnt go into an oil galley.

I got as far as this. I didnt have what looks like a 45mm socket for the crank. The closest I had was 1 13/16 however its 1 1/5" drive so it wouldnt fit into the pulley. Its actually for working on trains. My dad bought me the socket set even after I said I dont need them.

 

[VTCDN]

Looks like a good extraction.
See condenser sill in so that worked out.

Nice looking tech porn.
I dropped in to a few gents/places along the transfer route from CDN2USA . Saw a 3b , figure 82-84 BJ60 , another B diesel in Washington , had JB-Weld areas, anchor material .

I'll be seeing a few more (shops and techs that always ask about my project /dream) so I know there is 2 that i was asked to drop by and see why there worth / are ??

If I see a 2h , I'll let you know, but if you could just find a block with nice holes , that would be nice.

If they made these with benzine pistons , your hoping for a good shot.
You never know, just 6 round holes!!!

Im not pestering you , & i love the Pictures , just like most here.

I'll know by the end of the week , but you know the tech Vine , we never know.

I did meet some nice gents today from ih8mud PNW area.


VT

 

[vwluv10338]

Thursday I came out of the lunch room and I could hear the wire wheel going. My coworker was cleaning up my valves. I wanted to snap a pic but I didnt get a chance. I came to work this morning and he had my valves all done.

Pretty

 

[vwluv10338]

Sounds like a fun trip. Don't worry, you're not pestering me. Sometimes it feels like it's just you and me in this thread. And I took all those pics

Looks like a good extraction.
See condenser sill in so that worked out.

Nice looking tech porn.
I dropped in to a few gents/places along the transfer route from CDN2USA . Saw a 3b , figure 82-84 BJ60 , another B diesel in Washington , had JB-Weld areas, anchor material .

I'll be seeing a few more (shops and techs that always ask about my project /dream) so I know there is 2 that i was asked to drop by and see why there worth / are ??

If I see a 2h , I'll let you know, but if you could just find a block with nice holes , that would be nice.

If they made these with benzine pistons , your hoping for a good shot.
You never know, just 6 round holes!!!

Im not pestering you , & i love the Pictures , just like most here.

I'll know by the end of the week , but you know the tech Vine , we never know.

I did meet some nice gents today from ih8mud PNW area.


VT

 

[lostmarbles]

What is that thing your camera appears to have captured in the back of the hole?



BTW - Nice work

 

[RufusTheDufus]

Is that one of the mounting holes for the stock alternator bracket?

 

[vwluv10338]

Is that one of the mounting holes for the stock alternator bracket?

I'm not sure. I had the stock alternator just to run the vac pump and then a GM 1-wire on a custom bracket. I'm not sure what is stock since I had the stock alt, the GM alt., and an AC compressor all mounted on that side of the engine.

What is that thing your camera appears to have captured in the back of the hole?

View attachment 508515

BTW - Nice work

The piece in the hole was the epoxy end cap of the bolt. The bolt had around 6 washers on it and was not tight but I guess epoxy was put on it when it was installed. When I removed it the little cap of epoxy fell off in the hole.

 

[RufusTheDufus]

This thread made me curious so I decided to call our local engine rebuilder today to get a price on freshening up the bottom end of my H diesel. They'll do the machine work and assembly for $1300. I'll supply the parts. The machine work includes turning and polishing the crank, pressing new liners and finishing them and all the assembly work. That seems like a pretty reasonable price. They haven't done a Toyota diesel but they do lots of diesels for the tree skidders and other lumber industry machines around here.

 

[vwluv10338]

This thread made me curious so I decided to call our local engine rebuilder today to get a price on freshening up the bottom end of my H diesel. They'll do the machine work and assembly for $1300. I'll supply the parts. The machine work includes turning and polishing the crank, pressing new liners and finishing them and all the assembly work. That seems like a pretty reasonable price. They haven't done a Toyota diesel but they do lots of diesels for the tree skidders and other lumber industry machines around here.

That's not bad and sounds about right. I was quoted $600 for liner install, finish bore and hone. Around $140 from a crank shop to cut the crank oversized. That's about all I would need. I'm hoping just to polish the crank. The rest if the money for assembly sounds reasonable.

 

[vwluv10338]

Update:

I just called the machine shop and my head checked out ok. No cracks.

 

[RufusTheDufus]

So there's not a 1HZ in the future for you?

 

[vwluv10338]

So there's not a 1HZ in the future for you?

I think both the 1HZ and the blown-up 12HT are sold pending funds. Neither of which are by me. I did call Radd to see if they had any good 12HTs or were expecting any. They said maybe but didn't get back to me.

So I guess as of now I will be pushing foreward with this rebuild. My cost estimate a page or two back included rebuilding the injectors but now I am also thinking about frying the pump tuned up as well. It's one of those while we are here things I guess. I was staring at it thinking when would I have it off again.

Who knows. I am thinking maybe in the future I can sell this rebuilt engine if a good deal on a 12HT shows up. Like I said to you in my earlier PM, I have to get this truck done before my 1st kid shows up in October. If it's not done I can see it turning into a long-term project and that is not why I bought this truck.

 

[vwluv10338]

Since my truck has headers it made adding a turbo a little hard. I had started making a manifold but I decided to just flip a stock one. I got on in the mail yesterday from fellow mudder "Mike" again.

Started to clean it up.

Now asa far as the engine, I was getting hung up on the crank bolt. None of the tool trucks or local Sears had a 45mm socket in stock. I found one on Amazon for $9.60 + shipping.

However the problem is its too thick and wont fit in the crank pulley. So I gave it to another coworker of mine who said he would turn it down on his lathe. Unfortunately, he said it was too hard and the bit was just chattering. He ended up using his grinder on the lathe arm.

He even painted it for me.

I started tearing into it again. It looks like the crank pulley must have broken a key and spun at some point. The crank was scored up but my pulley looked great.

I am thinking I will have to get my cam journals cut. One of them has a few scores but all the others look fine. Opinion?

Now I am stuck at the injector pump. Anyone have an idea of how to get the timer off the shaft without the SST? I think I can make one but that will put me back another few days.

 

[RufusTheDufus]

Now I am stuck at the injector pump. Anyone have an idea of how to get the timer off the shaft without the SST? I think I can make one but that will put me back another few days.

Can't you just unbolt the pump and slide it out towards the back of the engine? I swapped the pump on my H like that. The splined shaft is attached to the pump.

Or maybe I'm not understanding your question.

 

[vwluv10338]

Can't you just unbolt the pump and slide it out towards the back of the engine? I swapped the pump on my H like that. The splined shaft is attached to the pump.

Or maybe I'm not understanding your question.

You are probably right, however, I think its the same issue. The gear is supposed to be unbolted then a SST is threaded into the gear and an inner bolt is threaded through it to push on the shaft to push off the gear.
I can try to unbolt the pump and pull it off the back but it may still be stuck to the gear. I will try it tomorrow, there may be something that I am missing. In the timing gear section is shows taking the pump advance off but in the pump rebuild section it shows the timing gear still on the pump. Can you pull it out of the back with the timing gear still on? I would think there is a seal on the pump shaft.

 

[vwluv10338]

EDIT:

It looks like you are right. I think the whole pump with timer comes out the back. I will try that tomorrow.