kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #101
It runs! 
My 2F to 1HZ-T swap thread
- Thread starter kevinmrowland
- Start date
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Rob Faucett
GOLD Star
Yahoo! This is world record top shelf stuff! Is anything better posted anywhere on MUD? ROTW-M-Y for sure.
It runs!
Good show.How does it sound. You dont have the t/case on yet?
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #104
3 weeks and six days since the crate was dropped off on the shop floor. still a few things to button up, but it runs. I got a call from the machinist yesterday, he had no trouble milling the gear, I owe him $30. So I should be able to get the transfer in and drive it soon.
I finally got the PS hose I have been waiting on, and very slowly and carefully went through the steps to start it up, put diesel in the tank for the first time, bleed the filter out, filled the power steering, filled the oil, checked that the air cleaner was buttoned up. Then my plan was to go real slow, not make any stupid mistakes, bump the starter a few times to build oil pressure, then glow the motor for a few seconds, crack the injector lines to bleed the air out, THEN, turn the key to start it. Instead, I turned the key to bump the starter and rather than turning over it just went, bump, rumble,rumble,rumble. The motor just started without even turning over. I then panicked, shouted, NO!NO! it wasn't supposed to start yet! and immediately stumbled for the key to turn it off. After a few seconds I just sat there and started laughing.
I started it again, the oil pressure shot right up, let the motor get to operating temp and left it run for awhile, no leaks, no weird noises, sounds great, surprisingly quite. At idle there is a very strong flow of air through the radiator.
I tried the tachs from the 60 and from a 62, no luck, no reaction at all.
Revved the motor a few times to hear the turbo whine, shut it down, stared at it for awhile and went home for the night.
Holiday today, and what are holidays for other than working on cruisers?
I finally got the PS hose I have been waiting on, and very slowly and carefully went through the steps to start it up, put diesel in the tank for the first time, bleed the filter out, filled the power steering, filled the oil, checked that the air cleaner was buttoned up. Then my plan was to go real slow, not make any stupid mistakes, bump the starter a few times to build oil pressure, then glow the motor for a few seconds, crack the injector lines to bleed the air out, THEN, turn the key to start it. Instead, I turned the key to bump the starter and rather than turning over it just went, bump, rumble,rumble,rumble. The motor just started without even turning over. I then panicked, shouted, NO!NO! it wasn't supposed to start yet! and immediately stumbled for the key to turn it off. After a few seconds I just sat there and started laughing.
I started it again, the oil pressure shot right up, let the motor get to operating temp and left it run for awhile, no leaks, no weird noises, sounds great, surprisingly quite. At idle there is a very strong flow of air through the radiator.
I tried the tachs from the 60 and from a 62, no luck, no reaction at all.
Revved the motor a few times to hear the turbo whine, shut it down, stared at it for awhile and went home for the night.
Holiday today, and what are holidays for other than working on cruisers?
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
you can post a pic to show how you attached the braided line to the VDO gauge .. ( I try it but can't and finish with a copper line )
Great news
I can assure you will never tire of that 1HZ rumble each morning
I can assure you will never tire of that 1HZ rumble each morning
Ahhh!!! The smell of diesel!
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #108
Ahh, all the pidly s*** is killing me, but its still really fun at the same time.
I actually have a bunch of projects going on the truck right now, spent most of the day trying to wrap some of that stuff up.
The starter was acting like it had bad contacts but it was actually the magnetic switch line drawing a lot more power than the 2F starter did. I had run the switch line from the passenger side where it was originally, across the firewall and down to the new starter. That long of a run was to much for the OE wiring to handle. I ended up pulling the starter wire back through the harness, heat shrunk it and ran it right out the fire wall (through the old throttle linkage grommet) and directly to the starter. jumps right to life now.
I actually have a bunch of projects going on the truck right now, spent most of the day trying to wrap some of that stuff up.
The starter was acting like it had bad contacts but it was actually the magnetic switch line drawing a lot more power than the 2F starter did. I had run the switch line from the passenger side where it was originally, across the firewall and down to the new starter. That long of a run was to much for the OE wiring to handle. I ended up pulling the starter wire back through the harness, heat shrunk it and ran it right out the fire wall (through the old throttle linkage grommet) and directly to the starter. jumps right to life now.
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #109
The nipple on the back of the VDO is 1/8"NPT I used an AN-3 stainless line and got a AN-NPT adapter.
This is the adapter I used, you can get an elbow one as well if space is tight, but they cost three times as much for some reason.
https://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/sto...EpYRd qjzfA/ywkLQMFCeqTg==&ddkey=OrderItemAdd
And the line:
http://store.summitracing.com/partd...1&part=EAR-63010172ERL&N=700+115&autoview=sku
And Summit sells this as a kit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM-3229&N=700+115&autoview=sku
I can snap a pic for you tomorrow.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
And Summit sells this as a kit:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ATM-3229&N=700+115&autoview=sku
I can snap a pic for you tomorrow.
Dude .. really thanks .. I got the link !
P.S. I never found it in summit .. my bad.
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #111
Summit is weird, you can type in exactly what you are looking for an it wont come up. I find it is better to just call them. Hope it works for ya
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #112
Got the transfer input gear back from the machinist, looks great, fits even better, I owe him $30.
Great job, Kevin!
Hey I spotted a tach from an HJ cluster in the Metal Tech cave. I think it was a 24V truck though? You could give Mark a call and ask if you think that would do any good. Not sure how the diesel tachs connect.
ROTW for sure, only if the hot custom rack stays on it though!
See you in a couple weeks!
Hey I spotted a tach from an HJ cluster in the Metal Tech cave. I think it was a 24V truck though? You could give Mark a call and ask if you think that would do any good. Not sure how the diesel tachs connect.
ROTW for sure, only if the hot custom rack stays on it though!
See you in a couple weeks!
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #115
Thanks Ken and Louis.
The HJ tach has been proven not to work by VTCruiser, The main reason to be concerned with the tach is to get the AC amp the coil signal it needs. (new info may suggest this is not the case)
Put the transfer case in this morning and took it for a spin. Went down the road great, decided to drive to the gas station and fill er up with diesel for the first time. The temp gauge read dangerously hot within the mile it took to get to the station.
I used the sender and OE gauge from the 2F, I was under the impression that the HZ ran at a lower temp than the 2F so the gauge should be calibrated to run in the "normal" range. Even if it was not, there was WAY to much fluctuation between where it sat at idle (middle) and when it got hot (just under the red, VERY scary)
The other thing, is the injection pump supposed to get hot to the touch? Once I got to the station (very slowly) I let it idle till the temp was back to normal, shut it down, filled it up and then it didn't want to start.
The fuel cut solenoid would not click but had power, I let the engine sit and cool for a long time (and poured some cool water on the pump) and then the solenoid would click again, started right back up. Does the fuel cut solenoid have some kind of heat sensor on it that would make it not work?
I am hopping that the cooling problem just has to do with air pockets in the system since it was all drained for the swap. But I let it warm up and cool off, running the heater repeatedly at the shop with no problem.
So she runs and drives, but not quite right yet
The HJ tach has been proven not to work by VTCruiser, The main reason to be concerned with the tach is to get the AC amp the coil signal it needs. (new info may suggest this is not the case)
Put the transfer case in this morning and took it for a spin. Went down the road great, decided to drive to the gas station and fill er up with diesel for the first time. The temp gauge read dangerously hot within the mile it took to get to the station.
I used the sender and OE gauge from the 2F, I was under the impression that the HZ ran at a lower temp than the 2F so the gauge should be calibrated to run in the "normal" range. Even if it was not, there was WAY to much fluctuation between where it sat at idle (middle) and when it got hot (just under the red, VERY scary)
The other thing, is the injection pump supposed to get hot to the touch? Once I got to the station (very slowly) I let it idle till the temp was back to normal, shut it down, filled it up and then it didn't want to start.
The fuel cut solenoid would not click but had power, I let the engine sit and cool for a long time (and poured some cool water on the pump) and then the solenoid would click again, started right back up. Does the fuel cut solenoid have some kind of heat sensor on it that would make it not work?
I am hopping that the cooling problem just has to do with air pockets in the system since it was all drained for the swap. But I let it warm up and cool off, running the heater repeatedly at the shop with no problem.
So she runs and drives, but not quite right yet
You shold be using aftermarket guages for your truck now, ie. pyro, water temp, oil pressure etc. also, the tiny tach is very simple, just wrap it around one of the injector lines and you see your rpm - use a 4.3 mm transducer.
Not sure why your temp was so high - was the rad hot? both rad hoses hot? ensure that the thermostat is working. is the rad original? The injection pump will get hot as it is attached to the engine -but not sure how hot.
Also remember that if your truck is overheating - turn on the front and rear heaters and let them work the heat off as well - they are mini rads.
Install proprer guages!
Not sure why your temp was so high - was the rad hot? both rad hoses hot? ensure that the thermostat is working. is the rad original? The injection pump will get hot as it is attached to the engine -but not sure how hot.
Also remember that if your truck is overheating - turn on the front and rear heaters and let them work the heat off as well - they are mini rads.
Install proprer guages!
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #117
Thanks Louis.
I think the cooling issue must be related to air pockets in the system, specifically perhaps the heat exchanger I put in.
I ran and let it cool repeatedly and I got a good deal more coolant into her through the flush port on the top firewall hose. That would indicate that I did not get enough coolant in there the first few times.
Both in and out rad hoses were hot, a good amount of air was flowing through the fins at idle and the rad is only a few years old. I hope it is just air pockets.
I installed VDO oil pressure, pyro (no exhaust yet, so no temp sensor) and boost gauges as part of the swap, but not a water temp gauge. I thought that between the EGT and the OE water temp gauge I would have a pretty good idea as to what was going on. Might need a water gauge now.
The tach you describe sounds pretty cool, I am off to goggle it.
I think the cooling issue must be related to air pockets in the system, specifically perhaps the heat exchanger I put in.
I ran and let it cool repeatedly and I got a good deal more coolant into her through the flush port on the top firewall hose. That would indicate that I did not get enough coolant in there the first few times.
Both in and out rad hoses were hot, a good amount of air was flowing through the fins at idle and the rad is only a few years old. I hope it is just air pockets.
I installed VDO oil pressure, pyro (no exhaust yet, so no temp sensor) and boost gauges as part of the swap, but not a water temp gauge. I thought that between the EGT and the OE water temp gauge I would have a pretty good idea as to what was going on. Might need a water gauge now.
The tach you describe sounds pretty cool, I am off to goggle it.
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #118
Along the same lines, when the engine gets hot, the fuel cut solenoid will not click. It stays running but If I turn it off, the solenoid will not reopen unless it gets over 14volts fed to it (without external power I currently get 12.4v at the plug)
Why is the solenoid reacting to heat?
Does this mean the injection pump is getting to hot? Is there some kind of temp sensor in the solenoid (I doubt that would be the case)
IMOP the entire pump housing feels hotter than it should, but I suppose it has coolant and engine oil running through parts of it, so theoretically it could be as hot as the block, is this correct?
Why is the solenoid reacting to heat?
Does this mean the injection pump is getting to hot? Is there some kind of temp sensor in the solenoid (I doubt that would be the case)
IMOP the entire pump housing feels hotter than it should, but I suppose it has coolant and engine oil running through parts of it, so theoretically it could be as hot as the block, is this correct?
Is your return to tank line working?
I could imagine the pump getting hotter and hotter if it can't pass fuel back to the tank and lose heat that way.
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
- Thread starter
- #120
Good idea, I'll check that out.
