Builds My $1k rig build (1 Viewer)

[Zantier]

I have been a 40 and 60s fan for years and finally scored a beautiful 1986 FJ60 from eBay a few years ago. The attention a LC gets almost becomes normal. I love "Buttercup" as it is affectionately called by everyone, but then something changed. The more I read about over landing, the more I wanted a rig that I could modify and that would be more comfortable. I wanted a LC that I could take down a trail and did not cry about new pin striping. The FJ60 has the potential but Buttercup is pristine and way too nice to modify from stock. Slowly the 80s series grew on me and one day a Craigslist ad popped up for a 1994 FZJ80 for $2000. I'm convinced that the seller did not really know what they had, was scared of the long list of repairs, and was ready to donate it. I low balled a $1000 offer and it was mine.

Now Buttercup is being sold and my new adventure build begins! UPDATE: She is SOLD!

 

[Zantier]

Time to get the new rig inspected. It failed! The front wheels had quite a bit of 12 and 6 play indicating wheel bearings might need to be replaced. Estimate to fix: $553.38.

Luckily I have a friend with a big shop and all the right tools. He's a master mechanic and pretty much everything I know I learned from him. He has patience and teaches me and then expects me to do the work. I buy him McDonald's sausage biscuits with grape jelly. It's a hell of a deal.

We checked out the passenger side bearings and they were in great shaped. The washers were way loose though. It looks like the PO beat the crap out of them with a chisel. My friend cleaned them up and fabricated a new lock washer so that it properly tightened everything down, reinstalled everything and wallah, no more tire play! I repeated the steps on the drivers side without checking the bearings. Some day I'll get back in here and replace all new washers but it passes inspection now!

On a side note, the next big item is getting that front bumper replaced. I have a SLEE ShortBus ordered. I also need to repair the AC line coming out of the dryer as it was also damaged. I would be up for relocating the dryer up next to the battery (and there is a bunch of info on MUD about it) but have not found an easy DIY option.

 

[2fpower]

It appears that you have been properly initiated into the 80 world by spending more on the first part you want (the slee shortbus) than you originally paid for the vehicle.

Even so, , I salute you.

 

[shoresoccer13]

If you had bought a 93 you wouldn't have to relocate that dryer it is already in the correct location by the battery

 

[2fpower]

Time to get the new rig inspected. It failed! The front wheels had quite a bit of 12 and 6 play indicating wheel bearings might need to be replaced. Estimate to fix: $553.38.

Luckily I have a friend with a big shop and all the right tools. He's a master mechanic and pretty much everything I know I learned from him. He has patience and teaches me and then expects me to do the work. I buy him McDonald's sausage biscuits with grape jelly. It's a hell of a deal.
View attachment 1543834
We checked out the passenger side bearings and they were in great shaped. The washers were way loose though. It looks like the PO beat the crap out of them with a chisel. My friend cleaned them up and fabricated a new lock washer so that it properly tightened everything down, reinstalled everything and wallah, no more tire play! I repeated the steps on the drivers side without checking the bearings. Some day I'll get back in here and replace all new washers but it passes inspection now!

On a side note, the next big item is getting that front bumper replaced. I have a SLEE ShortBus ordered. I also need to repair the AC line coming out of the dryer as it was also damaged. I would be up for relocating the dryer up next to the battery (and there is a bunch of info on MUD about it) but have not found an easy DIY option.

I did relocate my dryer and came up with a good option. Get all the 93 parts that @shoresoccer13 mentioned. That will take care of the dryer moving up and the line from the condenser up to the dryer. Then take the line from the dryer that goes around the battery and you will cut it somewhere before the pressure sensor. that is also where you will cut the existing line.

Order a 7/16 compression fitting stainless from swagelok. carefully bend, I used an actual bender the two lines into alignment, and your done.

good luck.

 

[Zantier]

I did relocate my dryer and came up with a good option. Get all the 93 parts that @shoresoccer13 mentioned. That will take care of the dryer moving up and the line from the condenser up to the dryer. Then take the line from the dryer that goes around the battery and you will cut it somewhere before the pressure sensor. that is also where you will cut the existing line.

Order a 7/16 compression fitting stainless from swagelok. carefully bend, I used an actual bender the two lines into alignment, and your done.

It didn't seem that easy when I was reading about it. Never saw a list of the parts and from what I understood the lines were different sizes. Once I get the smashed bumper off and can see the lines better I will be able to picture this better and maybe source it all. Swagelok is a good tip!

 

[Zantier]

This past weekend I finally got some time with the new rig. Order of business was CLEAN IT. I installed new hood struts from StrongArm (4551R and L), rinsed the engine bay with Simple Green, freshened up the battery holder with some Rustoleum, lost the front valence/bug screen and stripped the trim off of the gutter rails (what was Toyota thinking with that stuff?).

Years of debris and dirt get caught up in there! My 60 didn't have this trim and see no reason for it.

After a good bath with lots of scrubbing I started on the interior detailing or more like wiping layers of grime away with 409. I tossed the old floor mats and the carpets are in good shape. There is still lots more work to do inside.

 

[2fpower]

Here is a thread with ideas on the a/c.

AC Dryer Relocation kit?

 

[Zantier]

Drivers side/left front seat belt replaced!

My drivers side seat belt was shredded. It worked but I also couldn't get it extended sometimes, causing me to suck in my fat belly. Short of dieting, I needed a new belt. Many MUD searches later, with options on replacing a no-longer-available brown belt, I found what I think was a smoking deal on eBay: Left Front Drivers Seatbelt Brown 91 Toyota Land Cruiser, used and "Retracts as it should." $56 + 9 with shipping! It was in great shape, identical to the '94, super easy to replace and does not require eating salad.

I also got a peek under the kick panel for the first time. More on that...

 

[Zantier]

I noticed this switch the first day I looked at the vehicle.

I suspect it to be part of the security system but it's the first time I've heard of a "kill switch" being installed. Once I was into the kick panel, I could see that 3 wires were tapped and there is a wiring harness the runs up from here.

I saw someone else on MUD had these same pink wires--this particular vehicle was imported through the Gulf (where the security system was installed at the port). When I get the time I'll figure this out, follow those wires to the brain and install something newer. Because I probably NEED remote locks and a PANIC button.

 

[Zantier]

I'm just going to leave these here. Goals.
1994 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER – OFF-GRID RIG
Bug Out Vehicle: The 1994 FZJ80 Toyota Land Cruiser

 

[Zantier]

I had a short break the other day and wanted do a little project. So I started removing the dash trim. I picked the DS door.

Look what is underneath!!

WOW! Looks like new.

There are a couple of dash replacement trim kits I was considering but naked (and zero expense) sounds great now. These were my narrowed down sources: 1994 Toyota Land Cruiser Dash Kits. Black still might be an option on the dash but that looks to be pretty clean too.

 

[Zantier]

Over the weekend I got the rest of the door panels stripped of the old wood trim and cleaned. A good DIY adhesive removal product is one part coconut oil to two parts baking soda. Mix well and rub on with a cloth towel. Sticky stuff comes right off and leaves a nice shine.

I started tackling the front end in preparation for the new bumper.

This will all be blacked out except the TOYOTA on the grille (which needs some repair). I would love to have one of these custom 80 series grills but will wait to see how the epoxy repair works. A used grille is only $150.

A new valence (that holds the parking lights and runs from fender to fender under the grille, p/n 53903-60010) has been ordered. Plan right now is to hit the valance with the same black paint as the rest of the front end.

I have decided for now I am going to leave the dryer in it's original position. I really don't think relocating would be difficult but for right now this is quick and cheap (replacement AC tube , running from the dryer to the condenser, p/n 88716-6A421). I have already hit that canister with some black Rustoleum so it won't be very noticeable with the Slee ShortBus. EDIT: my buddy recommends replacing the dryer since it has been open to the air for so long so I ordered a new one from NAPA.

Now waiting on parts!

 

[Zantier]

A little light reading...

 

[Zantier]

I've been working on blacking out all the front trim and grille...

...and UPS Freight delivered this...

Dead body storage.

I LOVE THIS BUMPER!

 

[t k]

A little light reading...
View attachment 1549405

Congrats on the rig. Where did you get the repair manual from? I've been looking and can find some pdfs here are there but I prefer to have the book.

 

[Zantier]

Congrats on the rig. Where did you get the repair manual from? I've been looking and can find some pdfs here are there but I prefer to have the book.

Thanks! I am the same way and probably have the same PDFs. I scored this FSM on a Buy it Now eBay deal... about $50-100 cheaper than usual. One thing I have noticed though is the newer years cover more. For example, I was working on the front end--grille, valance, lights--all straight forward and was curious more than needing it, but not to be found. The '96 FSM had this area diagrammed.

 

[Jaymes]

Thanks! I am the same way and probably have the same PDFs. I scored this FSM on a Buy it Now eBay deal... about $50-100 cheaper than usual. One thing I have noticed though is the newer years cover more. For example, I was working on the front end--grille, valance, lights--all straight forward and was curious more than needing it, but not to be found. The '96 FSM had this area diagrammed.

In regards to getting a FSM, I was able to get one for my 97 for US $95 from The Motor Book store, may be worth checking into.

 

[mingles]

Occasionally they pop up used on Amazon.

Another source where I found some of my manuals...

Lexus LX450 Manuals at Books4Cars.com

 

[Zantier]

Big day!

I repaired the AC line, replaced the drier, modified the drier bracket, reinstalled the valence and attached the front grille. The Shortbus went on SUPER easy. Amory at Slee Off-Road said, "it will be the easiest bumper you ever install!" I quickly informed him this is the only bumper I have ever installed.

Now I r-e-a-l-l-y want a winch.

I also got a couple of other things installed. I have had Matthew Spencer's 3D printed seat back adjusters for several weeks now. It might be the first thing I ordered for my 80.

They fit snug (I pounded mine on with a rubber mallet) and are very secure.

Last but not least I replaced the steering column cover. My old one was wrapped about forty times with electrical tape by the PO:

The thing was in at least three pieces and as expensive as the things are, I had to spring for a new one (part # 4528660953C0).

It's officially time!