My 1975 2F Holley Sniper Install….

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Every day I want to get this finished but the first 6 hours of the day went by quickly, picked up my 10 yr old grandson, he helped with a bunch of other things and blew leaves, under supervision. I did get this 3/4” square measured, drilled and tapped..welding tomorrow
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It got the job done and THAT is what came in that Craftsman metric tap and die set in 1994. I could have used the new set I bought last year but, first in, first out. FIFO.

It’s an odd set, this was made to support 4 different sized taps. But as I say, it worked fine. Got 4 of the 3/4” thick holes tapped in under 9 minutes

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This seat adapter I had made really knocked me out this weekend. I was trying to be 101% sure it was perfect and bolted the seat to it 5 or 6 times to triple check the alignment to center and lifted the seat in and out over a dozen times. I don’t have that kind of strength anymore but the drive to get it right must have given me the will power.

A few tack welds did not hold it squarely or flat… so a 12 hour job but…. It is done. Then, I’d painted it gloss black waited the recommended time using compatible solvents and the unspeakable happens.

I’ll take it for powder coating eventually but I’m using it until the snow starts
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I have heard about home power coating @charliemeyer but never did any. If it’s just smell, I’ll go for it when my wife is out (ha-ha) I’ll need to read up on the technique. Another thing I’ll like to do is try some yellow zinc plating. I have a ton of buckets and a great power supply..the rest, I haven’t a clue
 
@Jdc1 you’ll get to check it out up-close! 😄
 
charliemeyer007 said:
Lots of good vids on both powder coating and plating. Not hard, but you have to do properly including the preparation. Pay good attention to protection for your health.
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Ooooh! So there’s a catch.
 
Only took 2 weeks.
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My 1 front driver seat mount was Raptor coated while the rest of the front seat frame is gloss black. Once thing about the Pro-Car seats is positioning the center console. The inboard tabs for the seat belts interfere with the rear end of the tab reading the floor. I made and extension to mount the console tab about 2 “ higher …works fine. My new friend James mailed me a front seat bracket. It came in today’s mail, sanded and cleaned up and is already under the seat. With all of the lifting and and taking out …the seats are the same height and about 1 1/2” higher than stock. I love it.

Drove the 40 about 100 miles in the last few days. The springs really do make a positive difference. It struck me today, it reminded me of driving my very first brand new Land Cruiser in 1974. Very few rattles from banging, smoother bumps, solid feel and I am very freakin impressed. Not saying any more about it, I’m busy driving it

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Decided I would try to show the ride with the new Terrain Tamer parabolic springs and recorded this while holding the phone against the windshield. I hated to spend that kinda money after everything that was recently added but…they really make the truck so much more fun to drive compared to the 50 year old stock springs. This probably should be number 3 on the list but was like….number 8. Those Pro-Car seats are great too. No hard spots and no sinking feeling into a dead spot of foam.

 
knuckle47 said:
Decided I would try to show the ride with the new Terrain Tamer parabolic springs and recorded this while holding the phone against the windshield. I hated to spend that kinda money after everything that was recently added but…they really make the truck so much more fun to drive compared to the 50 year old stock springs. This probably should be number 3 on the list but was like….number 8. Those Pro-Car seats are great too. No hard spots and no sinking feeling into a dead spot of foam.

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Seems pretty smooth. Man that is really scenic, what part of the country is that?
 
They call it “The Garden State”. Hahaha, more pavement than any state in the country. Garden? You may know it by the New Jersey Turnpike scenery or the tons of shopping malls
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I thought they just called it The Garden State because they couldn't fit "The Petrochemical and Refinery State" on the licence plates. That's what Sandra Bullock told me.
 
I should add that….this is my driveway
 
It’s been a few quiet weeks as we transition into fall so I crawl into the garage and hang out underneath the Land Cruiser just checking out different parts and pieces.

I decided that so much of the new hardware looks so pretty against clean frame and axles I was going to change the paint on my driveshaft.

@Jdc1 replaced most of it when he was rebuilding the rear bearings seals and front steering knuckles as well as changing the differentials. So just like when I installed the springs, the old hardware was really only a few weeks old as he did old shackle bushings, and U- bolts during the rebuild. How hard could that be to take out eight driveshaft bolts?.

Well, it took me four days to take out eight bolts clean the propeller shaft as it’s known in the FSM paint it then put it back in properly making sure it is phased accordingly it’s done and I again I’m wiped out from the process. I have to question how much longer I’ll be able to get some of this done even though 98% of it is absolutely gorgeous and pristine.

The driveshaft bolts were so tight. I spoke to Jesse to ask him if they had any Loctite on them. Safe to say I almost questioned whether they were 9/16 or 14 mm because neither wrench is fully secured the perimeter of the nut on bolt. So I ordered a set of six point box wrenches and while that was a major improvement. It was an extreme level of strength on my part to break them loose. However, it is all back together, and the beauty of the outside is also beautiful underneath. Here’s a few photos.

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That string of grease on the cardboard flap came out of the zerk port when I unscrewed it. It allowed me to compress the slip yolk enough to slide it off of the parking brake drum studs ….so, as @orangefj45 45 and @65swb45 had mentioned , simply remove the zerk to ensure that the slip yolk is not over greased and the hydraulic pressure is creating an issue. In an earlier post about installing the rear springs Georg did say that this is why the alignment was pushed back a tiny bit. The slip yolk was hydraulically pressurized with too much grease

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knuckle47 said:
It’s been a few quiet weeks as we transition into fall so I crawl into the garage and hang out underneath the Land Cruiser just checking out different parts and pieces.

I decided that so much of the new hardware looks so pretty against clean frame and axles I was going to change the paint on my driveshaft.

@Jdc1 replaced most of it when he was rebuilding the rear bearings seals and front steering knuckles as well as changing the differentials. So just like when I installed the springs, the old hardware was really only a few weeks old as he did old shackle bushings, and U- bolts during the rebuild. How hard could that be to take out eight driveshaft bolts?.

Well, it took me four days to take out eight bolts clean the propeller shaft as it’s known in the FSM paint it then put it back in properly making sure it is phased accordingly it’s done and I again I’m wiped out from the process. I have to question how much longer I’ll be able to get some of this done even though 98% of it is absolutely gorgeous and pristine.

The driveshaft bolts were so tight. I spoke to Jesse to ask him if they had any Loctite on them. Safe to say I almost questioned whether they were 9/16 or 14 mm because neither wrench is fully secured the perimeter of the nut on bolt. So I ordered a set of six point box wrenches and while that was a major improvement. It was an extreme level of strength on my part to break them loose. However, it is all back together, and the beauty of the outside is also beautiful underneath. Here’s a few photos.

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That string of grease on the cardboard flap came out of the zerk port when I unscrewed it. It allowed me to compress the slip yolk enough to slide it off of the parking brake drum studs ….so, as @orangefj45 45 and @65swb45 had mentioned , simply remove the zerk to ensure that the slip yolk is not over greased and the hydraulic pressure is creating an issue. In an earlier post about installing the rear springs Georg did say that this is why the alignment was pushed back a tiny bit. The slip yolk was hydraulically pressurized with too much grease

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I pull that propeller shaft every time I tow, couple times per year... It gets quicker and easier every time.
 
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