@knuckle47 when you ran your fuel lines did you have not modify the fuel line grommet on the floorboard?
My 1975 2F Holley Sniper Install….
- Thread starter knuckle47
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- #262
@cims1970fj40 I assume your referencing the oval grommet on the left side of the fuel tank and just off center of the floor? If that’s the one you’re talking about….then yes. My lines are heavier than OEM so I could not get it to fit. I eventually wrapped the tangent point an inch higher and an inch lower with a spongey 1/8” foam and gaffers tape to prevent chaffing. This winter I am pulling these 3 lines to re-route the vent elsewhere and use the two lines for send and return that will fit that 2-hole oval grommet
Thanks! That was the area I was referring too. I’m going to do an in tank as well.
Snowplowing with the Ford8N
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- #264
If I do nothing, then when it melt and re-freezes…it all ice and take a long time to be clear, less muddy and easier to walk on
With the 12” or so we have, this worked out great
With the 12” or so we have, this worked out great
I'd be wearing dachstein mittens. Thick wool, nice padding, warm even wet. I have deer skin shells to keep them dry.
- Thread starter
- #266
I have never had an $80 pair of gloves before. I actually had to take my glove off to activate the camera however, my hands were numb when I finished plowing. That “trip bucket” took a bit of synchronized shifting into reverse, lowering the bucket and latching back to a lock position. Like a ancient dance
The only thing I like better is my electric gloves, right up until the battery goes flat. I bought a buck buck converter so I could plug my gloves into the 12 V down to 7.2V and use the gloves while driving and switch to internal batteries for walking around - several hours on high vs gas tank run time.
Those mittens are so thick and tight woven you can't see light threw them and its hard to blow threw them with your breath. I have given several pairs away and the those folks swear by them. If they wet don't take the off and your will stay warm - take the off for very long when wet they are really hard to warm back up. If dry you can pull them on and off quickly and easily with no issues. Water proof shells are the ticket.
Those mittens are so thick and tight woven you can't see light threw them and its hard to blow threw them with your breath. I have given several pairs away and the those folks swear by them. If they wet don't take the off and your will stay warm - take the off for very long when wet they are really hard to warm back up. If dry you can pull them on and off quickly and easily with no issues. Water proof shells are the ticket.
- Thread starter
- #268
Thanks for that review Charlie…. Much appreciated..
Interesting g you say that as I just bought a heated jacket from Amazon. It was $140 on sale for $69. I figured if it doesn't work, I’d send it back but. It works well. I had a heated vest and gloves for winter motorcycle rides. That attached to the battery on the bike so while riding, it was fantastic but that was 25+ years ago
Got the extra battery for the coat in the mail yesterday as the first lasts about 2 1/2hours
Limited-time deal: Men's Heated Jacket with Detachable Hood, Waterproof Winter Outdoor Coat Electric Insulated jackets with Battery Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6RFVL5Q?tag=ihco-20
Interesting g you say that as I just bought a heated jacket from Amazon. It was $140 on sale for $69. I figured if it doesn't work, I’d send it back but. It works well. I had a heated vest and gloves for winter motorcycle rides. That attached to the battery on the bike so while riding, it was fantastic but that was 25+ years ago
Got the extra battery for the coat in the mail yesterday as the first lasts about 2 1/2hours
Limited-time deal: Men's Heated Jacket with Detachable Hood, Waterproof Winter Outdoor Coat Electric Insulated jackets with Battery Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6RFVL5Q?tag=ihco-20
Fuel Evaporator Separator
- Thread starter
- #269
I had found that while installing my Sniper EFI the light smell of gasoline that usually was present in the cab came from the fuel evaporator separator where on of the nipples was snapped off. This was 2 years ago. I’d looked around to replace it but finding one seemed to be harder than I thought. I carefully epoxied the nipple in place but it was always in the back of my mind that it was a broken part.
Last week while scrolling through the classifieds and I ran across @procomsignathid ad for a replacement piece. Well it arrived and it is a wonderfully well-made replacement part and had the hardware included in a little medicine bag to complete the job.
Most people gladly complain when something goes awry a few cheer for the things that go well.. this was a really good experience
Last week while scrolling through the classifieds and I ran across @procomsignathid ad for a replacement piece. Well it arrived and it is a wonderfully well-made replacement part and had the hardware included in a little medicine bag to complete the job.
Most people gladly complain when something goes awry a few cheer for the things that go well.. this was a really good experience
Very nice..Looks “industrial strong”. Tucking that away for a future upgrade.
- Thread starter
- #272
You’re right…it is a very solid piece and just looking at it in hand you know it’s well made. Comparing it to my stock evap, it is beefier. You know that sensation when you’re tapping on a piece of sheet rock, looking for the 2 x 4 underneath versus the hollow space in between the two studs.
Thank you for the fantastic feedback! Glad you are happy with the part!
- Thread starter
- #274
I don’t know why I was screwing around with this but I decided to refresh my sniper efi file by rerunning g the wizard. I put in all the exact parameters that I had used before, but then it surprised me with a question on the hyper Spark distributor. It wanted to know my wide-open throttle setting. I honestly don’t remember what it was and I think it might have been 36 but I think that’s a little too strong so I said it to the stock toyota 27 at that number the vehicle starts the same however when you first step on the gas even after it’s warmed up, it hesitates a lot, my AFR reading climbs to the mid 30s and the Truck coughs so today I am experimenting with resetting my hyper spark numbers and getting it back to normal.
I did have a very nice conversation with Jesse @Jdc1 and we have resolved the issue simply with some highly recommended numbers, but since it was getting dark and going into the evening, I just sat here ruminating about the entire thing and figured I would find out from chat as well
ChartGPT made it some dissertation ….if you’re interested here is its lengthy comment below:
Given the 1975 FJ40 2F, Sniper EFI, and HyperSpark ignition, I would start with fuel/acceleration enrichment, but I would verify the timing before changing the fuel table.
The reason is your AFR jumping from about 13:1 to 35:1 exactly when you hit the accelerator. That’s a classic indication of a momentary lean event. Holley specifically identifies acceleration-enrichment settings, TPS/MAP rate-of-change, and the base fuel table as areas to investigate for this type of stumble.
However, there’s an important twist
With the HyperSpark controlling timing, a bad timing event can actually cause the 35:1 AFR reading.
If the ignition timing suddenly jumps to an inappropriate value when you open the throttle, the engine can misfire. Oxygen then goes through the exhaust, and the wideband sensor can interpret that as an extremely lean mixture. There are documented Sniper/HyperSpark cases where a timing-table problem during acceleration produced a lean-looking AFR spike.
So I would diagnose it in this order:
1. Verify the HyperSpark timing synchronization first
This is critical.
Use the Sniper’s Static Timing Set function and a timing light. If, for example, you command 10° or 15°, the crankshaft must actually show that exact timing. Holley users specifically recommend verifying synchronization with a timing light rather than assuming the HyperSpark installation is correctly phased.
2. Watch what timing does when you hit the throttle
This is the test I’d really like to see.
At warm idle, watch the Sniper handheld/software:
RPM → TPS → MAP → AFR → Ignition Timing
Then give it the same quick throttle opening that causes the cough.
If you see something like:
12° → 25° → 35°
right as the engine stumbles, I would chase the timing table before touching the fuel settings.
If timing remains smooth while AFR goes:
13 → 35 → 13
then I’d concentrate heavily on Acceleration Enrichment.
3. Look at the AE settings
The Sniper’s acceleration enrichment is essentially its electronic accelerator pump. Increasing the AE fuel amount adds fuel when you rapidly open the throttle.
For your symptom, I’d particularly want to see:
* AE vs TPS Rate of Change
* AE vs MAP Rate of Change
* TPS RoC Blanking
* MAP RoC Blanking
* AE Correction vs TPS
* Base Fuel Table
Holley forum guidance specifically notes that a momentary lean spike can result from the TPS/MAP rate-of-change and blanking settings.
One thing I would NOT do yet
I wouldn’t simply start adding fuel everywhere because you’re seeing 35:1.
If that 35:1 reading is actually caused by a misfire from bad timing, adding fuel could mask the real problem and make the tune worse.
⸻
My suspicion for your particular FJ40
I’d put it roughly like this:
Fuel/AE problem: 60%
HyperSpark timing/table problem: 30%
Fuel pressure/injector/sensor problem: 10%
But the quickest way to move that from an educated guess to a diagnosis is a datalog.
If you can send me a screenshot of your Sniper ignition timing table and Acceleration Enrichment screen, I can go through the numbers specifically for your stock 2F on 87 octane.
Even better, if you can get me a short Sniper datalog of the stumble, I can tell you whether the timing changes first or the AFR changes first. That’s the smoking gun we’re looking for.
I did have a very nice conversation with Jesse @Jdc1 and we have resolved the issue simply with some highly recommended numbers, but since it was getting dark and going into the evening, I just sat here ruminating about the entire thing and figured I would find out from chat as well
ChartGPT made it some dissertation ….if you’re interested here is its lengthy comment below:
Given the 1975 FJ40 2F, Sniper EFI, and HyperSpark ignition, I would start with fuel/acceleration enrichment, but I would verify the timing before changing the fuel table.
The reason is your AFR jumping from about 13:1 to 35:1 exactly when you hit the accelerator. That’s a classic indication of a momentary lean event. Holley specifically identifies acceleration-enrichment settings, TPS/MAP rate-of-change, and the base fuel table as areas to investigate for this type of stumble.
However, there’s an important twist
With the HyperSpark controlling timing, a bad timing event can actually cause the 35:1 AFR reading.
If the ignition timing suddenly jumps to an inappropriate value when you open the throttle, the engine can misfire. Oxygen then goes through the exhaust, and the wideband sensor can interpret that as an extremely lean mixture. There are documented Sniper/HyperSpark cases where a timing-table problem during acceleration produced a lean-looking AFR spike.
So I would diagnose it in this order:
1. Verify the HyperSpark timing synchronization first
This is critical.
Use the Sniper’s Static Timing Set function and a timing light. If, for example, you command 10° or 15°, the crankshaft must actually show that exact timing. Holley users specifically recommend verifying synchronization with a timing light rather than assuming the HyperSpark installation is correctly phased.
2. Watch what timing does when you hit the throttle
This is the test I’d really like to see.
At warm idle, watch the Sniper handheld/software:
RPM → TPS → MAP → AFR → Ignition Timing
Then give it the same quick throttle opening that causes the cough.
If you see something like:
12° → 25° → 35°
right as the engine stumbles, I would chase the timing table before touching the fuel settings.
If timing remains smooth while AFR goes:
13 → 35 → 13
then I’d concentrate heavily on Acceleration Enrichment.
3. Look at the AE settings
The Sniper’s acceleration enrichment is essentially its electronic accelerator pump. Increasing the AE fuel amount adds fuel when you rapidly open the throttle.
For your symptom, I’d particularly want to see:
* AE vs TPS Rate of Change
* AE vs MAP Rate of Change
* TPS RoC Blanking
* MAP RoC Blanking
* AE Correction vs TPS
* Base Fuel Table
Holley forum guidance specifically notes that a momentary lean spike can result from the TPS/MAP rate-of-change and blanking settings.
One thing I would NOT do yet
I wouldn’t simply start adding fuel everywhere because you’re seeing 35:1.
If that 35:1 reading is actually caused by a misfire from bad timing, adding fuel could mask the real problem and make the tune worse.
⸻
My suspicion for your particular FJ40
I’d put it roughly like this:
Fuel/AE problem: 60%
HyperSpark timing/table problem: 30%
Fuel pressure/injector/sensor problem: 10%
But the quickest way to move that from an educated guess to a diagnosis is a datalog.
If you can send me a screenshot of your Sniper ignition timing table and Acceleration Enrichment screen, I can go through the numbers specifically for your stock 2F on 87 octane.
Even better, if you can get me a short Sniper datalog of the stumble, I can tell you whether the timing changes first or the AFR changes first. That’s the smoking gun we’re looking for.
I've been doing similar recently with Claude/Anthropic, but you can take it a notch up once you build in the ability to parse the config and logs - it removes the guesswork and interpretation as you can really directly do "A/B tests" and check the detailed logs for quantitative results. The log parsing really gets interesting as it can detect misfires based on *how* it goes lean vs injector pulse rate, etc - fuel delivery was x, but AFR went lean, and that matches one hole going dead. (I actually had bad plug wire that would grump under lower RPM load)
I've got mine pretty deeply dialed in - might be interesting to compare my tune to yours and see what's different. If you get a chance, drop me your latest config export @knuckle47 and I'll sneak a peek.
I've got mine pretty deeply dialed in - might be interesting to compare my tune to yours and see what's different. If you get a chance, drop me your latest config export @knuckle47 and I'll sneak a peek.
Editors note:
Anyone that stumbled upon this discussion make note they are discussing sniper/hyperspark tuning. If you are running a vacuum advance distributor this does not apply.
Anyone that stumbled upon this discussion make note they are discussing sniper/hyperspark tuning. If you are running a vacuum advance distributor this does not apply.
The real value is in the log parsing and statistical analysis - without that, it's still a bit by "feel". You still need to know how to tune, but you become much more effective with the access to easy, detailed differential analysis.
It helps across the board too - AE enrichment, IAC tuning (rampdown, etc), fuel curves, timing curves. Definitely not just for those with the Hyperspark - but again, I'm specifically is talking about a more mature/detailed implementation with rulesets and parsers, vs just Q&A on symptoms.
It helps across the board too - AE enrichment, IAC tuning (rampdown, etc), fuel curves, timing curves. Definitely not just for those with the Hyperspark - but again, I'm specifically is talking about a more mature/detailed implementation with rulesets and parsers, vs just Q&A on symptoms.
- Thread starter
- #280
@zerotreedelta that last post has stated everything I have been reading about for the last 36 hours or so. The manual explains the purposes of these parameters but does not detail where they should be. That’s where your own “feel’ can be valued by making changes up or down and the feeding back to AI…
I understand a bunch more in the last day than I ever figured I needed to know after running the sniper for the last 2+ years..
I understand a bunch more in the last day than I ever figured I needed to know after running the sniper for the last 2+ years..