mount dual batteries under frame

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great link
This was the error I got
Code:
Warning: implode(): Invalid arguments passed in /home/wirecabl/public_html/administrator/components/com_virtuemart/models/product.php on line 1201

i dunno about you but a quick google search of that reveals some strange stuff. Looks like something to do with general motors making faulty wire to take down streetcars. Big government isn't the problem - big cronyism is!

General Motors streetcar conspiracy - Wikipedia
 
IMHO, it sounds like a lot of work and hassle for little reward. Two batteries fit nicely under the hood. So much easier and cleaner. Again, JMHO.
 
I think making it so you could access it would be key. Big enough to work in there too, without having to pull the batteries out. Some sort of a door with a stainless piano hinge type operator panel with a fold on the edges so you could install some self adhesive weatherstripping. Maybe even a dome light in the box for true pro jock engineering?

Maybe that is too far out of the box though...
my thoughts exactly and i keep magnetic base light sources all over to use on stuff like this
great idea on the piano hinged panel
 
I have done this to an older BMW.
Suggest using marine grade cabling, which has each 30 gauge wire strand strand individually tinned for corrosion resistance.
It's like welding cable, but better.
Also, have your cables made to order (to the inch) with closed end crimped on lugs and heat shrink sleeves with hot melt adhesive inside.
Regular lugs are smashed down tubes with the ends sheared, so there is a moisture seepage path into the end, but they make sealed end ones as well.
The cable is then a practically airtight sealed assembly.
Only the outer surface of the end lugs themselves are exposed metal.

It's been a long time since I did this, and I'm sure that copper prices are much higher now.
I sourced them from a company with the improbable name of Marine Wiring, Boat Cable and Electrical Genuinedealz.com
Their quality was good and I see that they are still around.
 
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This was the error I got
Code:
Warning: implode(): Invalid arguments passed in /home/wirecabl/public_html/administrator/components/com_virtuemart/models/product.php on line 1201

i dunno about you but a quick google search of that reveals some strange stuff. Looks like something to do with general motors making faulty wire to take down streetcars. Big government isn't the problem - big cronyism is!

General Motors streetcar conspiracy - Wikipedia
lol
 
Also consider the extra work in the event you have to disconnect the battery for some kind of service.
Maybe a sealed/vented box with an Anderson connector in the Engine Room? then disconnecting the battery is just a plug to pull instead of getting under the truck, opening the sealed box and disconnecting the battery.

Didn't someone do some fabricated in-the-floor storage in the space above the spare carrier a couple years back? That was cool and would be a good place to put the batteries as long as the terminals don't touch anything. That is where Lexus LS keeps the std battery on the hybrid vehicle.
 
i've removed both sets of rear seats so putting in an access point back there would be easy enough................maybeo_O
 
Also consider the extra work in the event you have to disconnect the battery for some kind of service.
Maybe a sealed/vented box with an Anderson connector in the Engine Room? then disconnecting the battery is just a plug to pull instead of getting under the truck, opening the sealed box and disconnecting the battery.

Didn't someone do some fabricated in-the-floor storage in the space above the spare carrier a couple years back? That was cool and would be a good place to put the batteries as long as the terminals don't touch anything. That is where Lexus LS keeps the std battery on the hybrid vehicle.
I thought about that too as far as disconnecting the battery. I use a under hood circuit breaker under the hood that I can trip which kills power to all the vehicle circuits except for the winch and main starter cable.
 
I actually did a similar setup; 22' of 1/0 high strand cable (sheathed/heat shrinked/closed ends/etc.) built to order. It runs from the OEM battery location to rear passenger wall through the inside of the truck then from the rear passenger wall, through the floor to the frame.

I'm planning on 2x total batteries (31M) in parallel. I CAN put the 2nd battery in the back at the end of that run OR put both underneath OR put both in the back OR put them both up front. It's more crazy making than useful at this point. :confused: I installed my Flaming River disconnect and Victron Shunt AT the OEM battery location.

The cable and custom work alone was $220, not including Adel clamps, screws, terminal blocks, fuse blocks, etc. That would have easily bought the 2nd battery tray and necessary cables up front AND a 4 AWG run and saved me A LOT of staring blankly (planning sessions ;)) and headaches.
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If I had to do it all over again, I'd just get the 2nd (passenger) battery tray, cables between them and run a single 4 AWG wire to the back for the amplifier and compressor. As usual, I overdid it...and I'm not finished with it. :(
 
I dont see an issue as long as you spend the money on proper wire and hardware. I move tons of Commercial vehicles and most of them end up have rear or side mounted batteries. The one thing most of them have in common is easy access to the Batts, whether it be on a slide or access hatch. Those that do not have easy access are usually hated by the shop techs who maintain them when it comes to battery related things. Tons of 18 wheelers have rear mounted batteries as well. But they use some ridiculously thick wire. But thats usually for the 3 or 4 batts. The terminals are usually greased like hell and they are in a box between or beside the frame to keep them out of rain water and road spray.
 

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