Motor mounts. Should I keep buying, or just slap a chain on it? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

ssgoods

ssgoods

Joined
Dec 14, 2006
Threads
42
Messages
318
Location
Tahlequah OK
My DS motor mount gives up the ghost everytime I get vertical past 20 degrees. Should I keep buying these, or can I wrap the motor mount in chain, and fix it for good?

Any news on the supposed poly-mounts that are supposed to be coming out? Anyone have pics of their chained motor mounts, or of other ways you have fixed this problem?

I'd like to get it bulletproof by tomorrow, so I can go to the Camp Gruber ORV park. What kind of chain should I use?- if I go that way.

Thanks,

-Nick
 
are you sure your tranny mounts are good as well

it shouldnt just keep breaking there must be a reason it keeps flexing enough to do that
 
Right now, they are all new, but I know that I will be taking rocks tomorrow that will take me to at least 20 to 25 degree inclines with rocks and such, so I would like to figure out a way to stop replacing them. When I replaced them all last time, the only one that had seperated was the driver's side. The others were old, but seemed to still be operational, but I replaced them anyhow. I'm just tired of buying them.


Brett-I've been reading your posts on the subject.. How are yours holding up? I think the reason they are flexing is because there is just too much weight, it just seems like pushing tons of force on the rubber is overkill. Do you know anyone who has chained their mounts permanently?
 
Last edited:
ssgoods said:
Right now, they are all new, but I know that I will be taking rocks tomorrow that will take me to at least 20 to 25 degree inclines with rocks and such, so I would like to figure out a way to stop replacing them. When I replaced them all last time, the only one that had seperated was the driver's side. The others were old, but seemed to still be operational, but I replaced them anyhow. I'm just tired of buying them.
Click to expand...
right on. the drivers front seems like they always want to go.mine is split in two:eek:
 
You putting the front ones on right? The side which has no metal goes on the inside or closest to the engine. What are you torquing the nuts to? With the nuts all on and alittle loose none of them should have tension on them or the rubber should be relaxed not flexed. If you are tightening them down with one flexed, then it is going to have no travel and not last long.
 
I may be tightening them too much, I'll check it out. Thanks.
 
My fiances dad said that my motor mount sounded a lot like the mount from his 440, im gonna see if i can make one of those work since they are available in poly and have slightly offset studs like the cruiser mount. The rubber versions are only like 15 bucks and they have the metal plates interlocked so that if the mount breaks it can only bang around a little, not rock the motor way over. I figure i can account for any difference in width with a piece of plate if need be.
 
Yep sick of taking out the D side mount as well. I have mine chained for now but am going to fab up something soon. As in a limiting strap, once you start hitting the rocks hard they start to come apart.
 
Low Tide, What kind of chain are you using? How long has it held up?

AO, Let me know how the 440 mount works for you, this info could be a really big deal on this board, especially with the possibility of a poly-mount.
 
I wrapped mine with a chain 2 years ago. If you look carefully, there is a roughly 3/8 hole in the front of the frame motor mount horn. I put a long bolt in that (about 3 inches) then attached the end of some 5/16 chain to that. Then wrapped up and over the engine mount, then back to my bolt. Used a nut tightening the bolt to tension the chain. Then double nutted to make sure it could not back out. It worked great for several months when I replaced the motor mount.

If I ever set up my 60 for heavy offroad, I'll do the chain trick even while the mount is still good.
 
There's gotta be something else going on for these to be breaking...what am I missing?:confused:
 
DirtyLittleSecret said:
There's gotta be something else going on for these to be breaking...what am I missing?:confused:
Click to expand...
TORQUE !!!

I got tired of breaking my D/S (and tranny mount) so I chained them when new. That helped but I managed to break the bolts (the chain was still hanging there limp).

I wanted to fab a different style mount, replacing the mount and the bracket that bolts to the block with a bushing and bolt. When I got it apart it was a little too tight with the smog pump.

So plan B was to punch out the the studs and drill through the mount. I installed a 7/16 grade 8 bolt straight through with hardened washers. I put a new tranny mount in while I was at it. Next week I'm fabricating a second crossmember/skid plate with a mini-truck mount to the ToyBox. Yeah, I'm sick of breaking them mounts.

I'll give all this a GOOD test at Rubithon.

P.S. I am getting some engine vibration but nothing that the Swamper Iroks can't mask. ;)

BTW, there is another thread on this subject that isn't too old...
 
And that's what I mean...what's so wrong with these mounts that a few hundred lbs of torque is chewing them up? Sounds like some new/beefy mounts are in order! I've seen MUCH torqier motors mounted on FAR less of a mounting system without problem.
 
There is nothing but vulcanized rubber in tension resisting the tension force on the motor mount and the tranny mount. The tensile strength of rubber can't be that great, but I think Mr. Toyota figured the gravitational force of the mighty 2f would help oppose this torque most of the time. The problem occurs on steep climbs that effectively reduce the weight of the motor. Add some big tires for extra traction, extra low gears for even more torque and it's easy to exceed what the rubber can hold.

BTW, I noticed the late mini/4Runner mount I bought for the ToyBox has a through bolt to limit movement tension.
 
Don't chain the mount itself. There's a better way.

Use a turnbuckle and chain together (on some rigs you can use just a turnbuckle). Attach on end to the frame and the other end to the engine itself. As high up as practical. On the driver's side of course. Sometimes a turnbuckle with a hook on one or both ends works best. Tighten the turnbuckle up. You're done. The engine is solidly preloaded by the turnbuckle and the mount can not be over stressed or broken.

We used to do it routinely with 400-500 horsepower street/bracket racers back in the day. Any increase in engine vibrations transmitted to the frame is un-noticable.
 
Turnbuckle is a good idea. Just be sure to get an oversize one. I've ripped the threads right out of one what I thought was of adequate size.
 
DirtyLittleSecret said:
And that's what I mean...what's so wrong with these mounts that a few hundred lbs of torque is chewing them up? Sounds like some new/beefy mounts are in order! I've seen MUCH torqier motors mounted on FAR less of a mounting system without problem.
Click to expand...

Its not just the 200+ ft-lbs that bust them, its the 100:1 reduction and the load of going up a steep ass hill. Its easier for the mount to rip than for 4 big aired down tires to break traction.
 
I still wonder if it is more an issue with frame flex than torque..

Who wants to weld the 2 halves of their frame together. And see if it helps.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
Should I Buy or Keep Looking?
2
Replies
24
Views
2K
bentonrover
bentonrover
Silveredition
Should I??
2
Replies
22
Views
2K
franklin40
franklin40
F
Motor just shooting oil out of it!
Replies
4
Views
802
Spook50
Spook50
R
Missing hardware - Should this be a pin or a bolt?
Replies
7
Views
497
Godwin
Godwin

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom