Most satisfying is again the rear prop uj joints, no play in the old one but was stiffer folding one way than the other way, thought it to be so trivial that it couldn't be causing the vibration, but after changing the truck was smooth as silk. Best money and time I've spent on the truck. So good I changed all four. The PO didn't now what grease was I don't think.
Most satisfying thing you did to your 100
- Thread starter ponytl
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2001LC
SILVER Star
Pulling, cleaning, using #1 moly grease may help. Drill a very small hole in cover plate will fix.
My rear propeller shaft cap plate loosened under pressure, so grease & air are passes at plate freely, which solved the clunk problem. Front shaft grease passes seal without excessive force, after removing & cleaning.
Grease zerk goes through rear cap plate. Drilling small hole in plate makes servicing each 5K miles with greasing less effective, as grease escapes out hole. But this is what Lexus shops do, after replacement shaft fail to stop clunk.
We have two possible issues causing clunk:
- One stiction (Stiction is the static friction that needs to be overcome to enable relative motion of stationary objects in contact. The term is a portmanteau of the term "static friction", perhaps also influenced by the verb "stick".) If you every pulled apart the shaft from yoke, you'll see fine teeth/threads on the spline of the yoke. There is a GM lube made to overcome this stiction, which is believe accentuated by the ridges on the yoke. I used a grease with moly to fill ridges and #1 which is thinner to pass seals. The problem with this, moly may make it more difficult for grease to passing seal.
- Seals are so tight the grease can't passes, which builds excessive hydraulic pressure in cavity of propeller shafts. It's been suggested that not servicing regularly dries seal creating this issue. This does not explain why properly service relatively new LX, had this issue. I use LX as example, only because it was the most senor Lexus mechanic in Co that told me how they solved the clunk by drilling the small hole.
Tip: Grease propeller shaft while rear wheels on ground keeps shaft in neutral position, this avoids over greasing.
If I ever remove shaft again, I'll tighten plate. Then drill and tap a small hole, so I can put in a check valve or removable plug in plate. The extra weight of plug/check valve could cause a balance issue. Hopefully if this accrues, vibration will move grease in shaft around until it effectively balances. But it's been trouble free for ~65K miles now, so I've not worried about it. My hope has been a small amount of grease is circulating during my servicing's, so no excessive wear has been accruing.
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After reading the issues with greasing the slip yolk joint I was cautious when greasing, I undone the rear bolts until just a couple of threads left, pulled and pryed the prop shaft forward to hit the nuts, wedged the gap between the prop and axle with some wood, greased the zirk until the grease passed the seal then removed the wood and tightened the bolts. So I reduced the length of the prop shaft to grease, then extended it back again hoping this would be enough to stop it hydraulicing.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Since your grease passed by the seal, you should be golden. No clunk.
Dynamat Sound Insulation on the doors and floors was by far the best thing I have done. (and will be doing to every car I own till the day I die)
The doors "whamp" closed like a rolls, the sound from the stock speakers is 100% better and the ride is so quiet I'm pulling off my cats and putting on MT's next week for s***s and giggles because i know i wont have to deal with the drone of either.
The doors "whamp" closed like a rolls, the sound from the stock speakers is 100% better and the ride is so quiet I'm pulling off my cats and putting on MT's next week for s***s and giggles because i know i wont have to deal with the drone of either.
I'm hoping I can get this solved for good on mine, greasing doesn't seem to work for long on mine. It clunks all the time now, especially when the suspension is flexed.
DT headers. Just really helps the engine breath.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Your spider joints are in good condition right?
If you pull shaft, remember to mark position of everything.
They seemed fine last time I checked them. I haven't taken it apart yet. I plan to disassemble, clean it, inspect the driveshaft and u-joints, and re-install with new grease. Hopefully that will be the most satisfying repair!
drove it off roading in the morning, went to work in the afternoon, then drove the family to a party in the evening, and brought everyone back home safety all in one day
stinkyfj60
SILVER Star
TJM Heavy suspension...
I did the rear springs on my own; torsion bars I did with help from guys in Northwest Overland...
They have vastly improved the handling of this truck empty, loaded, off-road, on-road...
I did the rear springs on my own; torsion bars I did with help from guys in Northwest Overland...
They have vastly improved the handling of this truck empty, loaded, off-road, on-road...
My 2nd set of DT headers are cracked and leaking again...I hope my issues are isolated and your's keep on keeping on
Recaro seat.
When did you get this second set? Was considering the purchase since my truck developed the leak/tick.My 2nd set of DT headers are cracked and leaking again...I hope my issues are isolated and your's keep on keeping on
3-years ago or so. The first set, apart of the first group buy, cracked...as many others experienced. Then DT went back and fabbed them from stainless with ceramic coating to supposedly make them crack free. Not. I need to remove them and send them in...but using my 100 more than the downtime will permit.
I like the performance gain from the headers but what RPITA...one would think a "50-year old" header company would know how to design and mfg headers that would perform to their marketing hype...but methinks otherwise.
And don't ask me about their advertised "50-state" legal nonsense.
We should probably take this thread hijack to a new specific thread...
I like the performance gain from the headers but what RPITA...one would think a "50-year old" header company would know how to design and mfg headers that would perform to their marketing hype...but methinks otherwise.
And don't ask me about their advertised "50-state" legal nonsense.
We should probably take this thread hijack to a new specific thread...
Hood and Liftgate struts done hijacking!!
done hijacking!!
On my second set of dt headers. The rust thing is unbelievable this day in Age.
295/75-16 BFG KO's, K&N CAI and DT Exhaust
Everyone who rides in my truck says something about the tires and engine sound.
Everyone who rides in my truck says something about the tires and engine sound.
stinkyfj60
SILVER Star
Hood and Liftgate struts
I just did the same: n o more getting killed by the hood or decapitated by the rear hatch...
