Mort's 76 FJ55

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I thought from cruiser outfitters tech it said the fronts are 60" and the rears are 58". I read it wrong. I though the picture was of a 60 axle with the tundra wheels. That would mean even with the Tacoma wheels they would still stick out pretty far. I'm just trying to find options while stuck in a hotel and not able to do any of my own measuring. I'm not a fan of tires that stick out, and I didn't really want to narrow the axles either, but if I did, I was wondering if I could use the 60 axle shafts and cut down the 80 axle to the 60 width. I would have to cut one side 1/2" and the other 2 5/8. I'm not sure if this is feasable.
 
I'm not sure if there is anything wrong. They need to be rebuilt from sitting for the 30 years. I wanted to go coil springs on the front and from what I have read and a quick glance while I was home I don't think I have room to put the coils on with the 55 axle. If I go with the SOA I will have to redo my steering which will cost me about $500 from the kits I've seen. I already have the 80 coil springs and radius arms and access to all the brackets from off an 80 front axle.

So the question is do I rebuild the 55 axles and spend the money on the SOA and High steer. I know you did yours without a SOA, but didn't you have to redo the steering? Or do I spend the money on 60 axles and do an 80 coil front. Also the original reason I wanted the 60 axles was the 3.7 gears that were stock to get the RPMs down. I'm definitely open for suggestions
 
I would keep the 55 axles and rebuild only whats needed if you're try to stay within a budget, I would keep the 55 axles and update with heavy duty parts and lockers if budget is not a concern.
Or I would skip the Toyota stuff altogether and go to one ton if you're going to links and coils.
 
Liljohn is correct, if you’re concerned about strength at all don’t waste your time with Toyota factory axles, I kept mine for an idealistic reason but could have built full blown aftermarket (read much stronger) axles for the same $$$ at the end of the day.

With that said the Toyota axles are strong and plenty of guys have run them with a 4BT without issue, using the 55 axles will save you a ton of money now and get you driving a lot sooner, your factory 55 springs will work well with the flip kit. The new steering components to go with the flip kit are not much more than just replacing your factory tie rods ends with quality parts. 4:10 gears are just about right with 35” tires and the 4BT


FYI, if you decide to upgrade later you will recoup most of your money for the flip kit when you sell your axles.

Flip kit is about $250.

Rear flip kit: Land Cruiser 3" Rear Axle Simple Swap Kit

Front flip kit: Land Cruiser Front Spring Over Kit

It was recommended to me to go to Saginaw Scout power steering box and I converted to Chevy one ton tie rod ends at the same time, Luke at 4X4 labs made the steering parts for a very reasonable price and the parts are top notch. He can build virtually the same setup for the FJ60 box using 80 tie rod ends.

4X4 labs: 4×4 Labs
 
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Lil'John said:
Sadly, Scout boxes seem to be getting harder to find :( I have not found a "rebuilt" autopart store carrying them... basically, I was told "bring in your old box, we'll send it to get it rebuilt".
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From what I remember A-1 CARDONE, LARES and ATSCO were out of Scout II cores and I paid too much for mine.

The Toyota 60/62 box may be the new hot ticket..
 
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I'm not sure the UPS guy is as happy about all the packages I'm getting as I am. Sorry Bob. Your work of art has been damaged.
 
Thanks for the advice. I've been thinking about this a bunch today. I have issues with getting something in my head and thinking its what needs to happen. I do need to save money on this build. Once I get the brackets, find a transfer case and a few other things I will be getting close to my budget. My original plan was the 60 axles with the fj80 coils and I've always wanted the toyota Elocker. I wanted to keep it stock toyota, and have a more comfortable ride than the front leaf springs. I figure I had all the brackets, coils and bars to do the 80 coils, I'm just missing the axles. I haven't had the chance to look at the current axles to see what kind of shape they are in and what will need to be replaced.


I go home in 2 weeks and will have 2 weeks off with very few distractions to start in on the cruiser. I have a few things left to order for when I get home. I was thinking about the Duiser AC mount and they are cheaper now than the last time I looked at them. Are they worth the money? I need a set of wheels because the 4runner wheels won't work with the 55 axles.

I think I'll have plenty of work to fill my two weeks just getting it ready for the engine.
 
Have any of you guys converted a vacuum fj62 transfer case to a manual? I know it's possible, and I have a list of parts. How good is this case compared to the 60 T-case?
 
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I'm using one in mine, no problems yet. Get a hold of Goerg at Valley Hybrids for all the parts and super help, if needed. I went with the twin sticks from Georg, too.
 
I've messaged and talked to Goerg a few times and was trying to buy a transfer case from him but now can't get ahold of him. I found one out of Florida but it's a vacuum shift. I've spent a few hours looking at how to convert and have a parts list, I just wanted to know if anyone had done it and their thoughts.
 
Scrapdaddy I read that the other day but didn't have the link to go back to. Thanks. I also found the part numbers off the cruiseroutfitters tech section.

I'll see if I can get that case from the guy in Florida, and if not, I'm back to trying to find one.
 
Does anyone know if/ how much longer the nv4500 will be than the Toyota transmission. I'm starting to look into doing the spring over on my 55 and trying to figure out where to point the diff.
 
mtnmort said:
Does anyone know if/ how much longer the nv4500 will be than the Toyota transmission. I'm starting to look into doing the spring over on my 55 and trying to figure out where to point the diff.
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You are going to want to balance between oil pan clearance and pinion angle, from memory I have my pinion up about 8° and no CV and have no vibrations at speed.



As liljohn said get your engine and trans/transfer set first then do the axles.
 
Cool. That's what I was wondering. What the order of it was. I'm headed home on Wednesday and trying to get a game plan for the two weeks I'll be home and can work on it.
 
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