Mort's 76 FJ55

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Tucson2000Houston said:
@mtnmort is there any chance you could snap a few more pictures of the floor pans on the drivers side - where your cutting and what the underside looks like?

This is a great thread.
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I overlapped the metal and welded it top and bottom. J also used a weld able primer on the seams.
 
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I pulled the frame out and sanded and painted it. I didn't get a great photo of it. I also got the spring over started. I didn't weld anything up I just used the U bolts to hold the axle where I want it until I get the weight on. I know it'll drop a little with weight, and I'll probably have to take out a leaf spring or two, but man it's tall.

I'm taking tomorrow off and starting in on the engine install on Monday.
 
I used POR 15. I'll have to scuff up the front and rear where it'll be exposed and paint it. I'll have the body off again after the engines done to sand blast the bottom and paint it. I'm starting in on the engine today and going to order the radiator and intercooler.
 
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I started to put the bell housing onto the engine and they don't match up. The top half does, and the top 6 bolts and the alignment pins all fit together, but the bottom half is off. Also I just noticed my adapter plate is clocked a bit. I'm not sure how much I need to worry about all this. I'll call Advance Adapters in the morning and see what they say. I guess it'll be an early night for me. I also need to buy a bunch of bolts to bolt this stuff together.
 
I'm still a little stumped about the bell housing. I called advance adapters today and they said they do t do 4bts and that they couldn't help.

The adapter plate on the 4bt is turned about 8 degrees so my transmission. Is turned. I was also having issues with clearance for my exhaust so I pushed the transmission towards the drivers side. I may have pushed it a little too far.

I feel like I've hit a wall and am not making much progress. I got the engine set where I think I want it, but won't know for sure until I get the rest of the brackets for everything.

I built the transmission crossmember tonight and got a plate for the Hydroboost so I'll try to get it installed.

I still need to find a few things. I really need to get the power steering box so I can plumb it all and make sure it all fits.
 
mtnmort said:
The adapter plate on the 4bt is turned about 8 degrees so my transmission. Is turned. I was also having issues with clearance for my exhaust so I pushed the transmission towards the drivers side. I may have pushed it a little too far.

I feel like I've hit a wall and am not making much progress. I got the engine set where I think I want it, but won't know for sure until I get the rest of the brackets for everything.
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I don't know much about the Chevy block adapters but it sounds like you have a 3910516, 3912601 or a 3916101, see if you can ID it then call this guy and see if he could shed some light on your issue. JD Jeeps - Diesel Conversions - bellhousing
 
I've been working a ton on the cruiser but it seems like I don't have a lot to show for it. After buying 4 master cylinders I finally found the one that fits my brake booster. I ordered a steering box off a 60 from cruiser parts.net but i haven't gotten it yet. I stripped the bottom of the 55 and used POR15 on it and then sprayed 8 bottles of the body Schultz on it. It looks good. I found about a half an inch of hard crud at the bottom of my fuel tank do I took it to a radiator shop and had it cleaned and coated. I just got it back today so I painted it and will put it in.

I also got my Fass fuel pump bracket built and ready to install on the frame.

I may start stripping the inside floor and get it ready to spray. I will probably get another week or two off work so I'm hoping all the stuff I've orders shows up while I'm home.
 
I'm trying to plumb the turbo and intercooler and have a question.

I wanted to keep the original blower motor instead of removing it like others have. This created a few plumbing issues. This is what I came up with but I'm wondering how hot the turbo pipes will get. The way I have it now it will run close and In between the brake and master cylinders. They aren't touching. Maybe an inch of clearance from both. Will the heat from the pipes cause issues with my brake and clutch masters? Do you guys see any issues with the way I plumbed it? I'm still waiting on a few things and a few fittings to finish it out.
 
mtnmort said:
They aren't touching. Maybe an inch of clearance from both. Will the heat from the pipes cause issues with my brake and clutch masters? Do you guys see any issues with the way I plumbed it? I'm still waiting on a few things and a few fittings to finish it out.
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Sorry I didn’t get back to your PM, your air filter box will hold the Donaldson Air filter for the GM duramax diesel part number - P610875.

The engine moves too much to run your intake piping the way you have it in your picture. Depending on how you drive you could see sustained temps of 1000° or more in that area immediately around the exhaust housing on your turbo.



Good luck it looks great so far.
 
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Heat on the air intake pipe will not be your issue vibration will, don’t underestimate the amount of torque these little 4BT’s have and the amount of movement associated with that much torque, they also have a nasty little shake thing they do on shut down.

A heat blanket on the turbo will go a long way to preserving your OEM fan and box, will it be enough I can say.
 
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I'm having more figment issues with the turbo. I bought the Duiser ac and alternator bracket. With it installed the ac compressor pushes into the intake boot on the turbo. I've been looking at it and I think a 2" spacer on the turbo instead of the 1" I have will help me clear it. I also just ordered a cobra head 90* boot to give me a little more clearance.
 
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