More FJ40 skid plates available now!!!

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Downey

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Ok Kimosabi's, I just finished another batch of the heavy duty belly/tranny skid plates, and the trick rear fuel cell aluminum skid plates. No word yet on my next batch of rear fuel cells though. Sooooo order up if you've been waiting for a skid plate- - -easy deal.
 
Pics

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Put me down for a fuel tank skid plate. How do we do this Jim?
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Ok Kimosabi's, I just finished another batch of the heavy duty belly/tranny skid plates, and the trick rear fuel cell aluminum skid plates. No word yet on my next batch of rear fuel cells though. Sooooo order up if you've been waiting for a skid plate- - -easy deal.
I'm new to the FJ40 scene, but I'm interested. Send me a Conversation / email with some pics and pricing. Thank you!
 
FloridaLife, heavy duty skid plates are $295.00, plus the ride. Send postal zip code so I can determine postage- - -easy deal.

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These skid plates are rock solid. Recommend.
Those look great. Do they bolt up to threaded holes that are already in the frame, or would I need to drill and tap?

Mine is a 1971 (made December of '70) FJ40, 3 speed, with a PTO winch. I am seriously considering swapping to a 1979 F2 engine and 4 speed transmission bolted to the 3 speed transfer case. Which skid plates would you recommend, and what are the prices?

Thank you!
 
I only make one model of FJ40 heavy duty skid plate, fits 3 speeds and 4 speeds. It will be necessary for you to cut a slot in the front edge of my skid plate to clear your PTO drive shaft. Typically some user's have to space the skid plate slightly downward on some engine/tranny/overdrive swaps. You have to transfer your stock skid plate bolt pattern into my skid plate. I stopped installing the bolt pattern(s) because the Landcruiser frames have a radical amount of flex, and my bolt pattern(s) never seemed to line up with the buyers bolt pattern- - -sooooo you have to drill. If you have a stock skid plate you merely transfer the bolt pattern to my skid plate. If you have no stock skid plate, then I can instruct you on how to achieve the correct bolt pattern into my skid plate.

FloridaLife, freight charges on my skid plate are $94.92, because (a) it's 43 lbs., and (b) you live on the opposite coast.
 
Those look great. Do they bolt up to threaded holes that are already in the frame, or would I need to drill and tap?

Mine is a 1971 (made December of '70) FJ40, 3 speed, with a PTO winch. I am seriously considering swapping to a 1979 F2 engine and 4 speed transmission bolted to the 3 speed transfer case. Which skid plates would you recommend, and what are the prices?

Thank you!
You will need six holes on each flange: three for the bolts, and three more to clearance frame rivets.

If you end up having to space down, then the rivets are no longer a problem. But shearing extended 8mm bolts off is. At the point of spacing down, I would consider punching out the captive nuts in the frame and tapping the framerails directly to a more robust 10mm. You can also weld non-JIS 10mm nuts to the bottom of the frame at that point which yields you both a nut and a spacer.

To all: If you find this information useful, you can hit the like button.😉
 
You will need six holes on each flange: three for the bolts, and three more to clearance frame rivets.

If you end up having to space down, then the rivets are no longer a problem. But shearing extended 8mm bolts off is. At the point of spacing down, I would consider punching out the captive nuts in the frame and tapping the framerails directly to a more robust 10mm. You can also weld non-JIS 10mm nuts to the bottom of the frame at that point which yields you both a nut and a spacer.

To all: If you find this information useful, you can hit the like button.😉
Thank you. I wish I still had my shop, tools, and mig welder. But even if I did, my hands aren't steady anymore. Getting old SUCKS! LOL. But, my boys can be my hands. (14 & 10). I definitely am looking to build something made to last. Those skid plates looked good to me!

Thank you,
Don
 
You will need six holes on each flange: three for the bolts, and three more to clearance frame rivets.

If you end up having to space down, then the rivets are no longer a problem. But shearing extended 8mm bolts off is. At the point of spacing down, I would consider punching out the captive nuts in the frame and tapping the framerails directly to a more robust 10mm. You can also weld non-JIS 10mm nuts to the bottom of the frame at that point which yields you both a nut and a spacer.

To all: If you find this information useful, you can hit the like button.😉
Great info. Thank you.
 

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