1980 FJ40 2F… Dying Under Braking ** FIXED** Now An Updating and Gremlin Chasing Thread (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ASO544
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #122
Ok… back on my temp gauge. I noticed it wasn’t working so I grounded it at the sensor and the gauge moved to hot. I replaced the sensor with a new factory one but I’m still not getting and movement on the gauge during operation.
At what temp does it start to rise ?
Any other suggestions on what I need to look at ?
At what temp does it start to rise ?
Any other suggestions on what I need to look at ?
Did you get the correct sensor? I think there are 2 that operate in different ranges of resistance. Maybe your gauge was swapped to the other one at some point.
Have you look in the manual for your rig, free download manuals Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) - https://www.cruisercult.com/factory-service-manuals
Have you look in the manual for your rig, free download manuals Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) - https://www.cruisercult.com/factory-service-manuals
Is the sensor earthed? Check resistance from sensor body to head.
Check the sensor is not insulated with thread sealant - teflon tape is bad. Use a multimeter and check resistance from thread on sensor to engine head. The early pre 72 sensors won't work with your gauge - they're 12volt, yours works off 5. Or power a test light from your battery and see if it lights when you earth it to the sensor body.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #127
Ok… with key on and black touching threads and red touching thermostat housing or the engine block I get 0.00
Using the test light on the sensor power, I only get a low light flashing .
Test Light Video
Nice vid clip. My thought watching it blink was some how the turn signal flasher can is involved. Under the dash it would be easy to plug the wrong wires together. I would make a fused direct jumper wire circuit from sensor to meter bypassing the wiring harness and see what happens. If you pull the cluster don't forget to disconnect the battery first.
- Thread starter
- #129
I actually just moved the sensor to the block behind the carb. I tested it prior by ground it to the block and using a heat gun and the temperature rose on the gauge.
I installed it and will give it a test drive later !!!
I installed it and will give it a test drive later !!!
Looks like your earth is ok. That low light flashing is the 5 volt regulator doing its thing - your temp gauge is powered by a 5 volt regulator built into your fuel gauge. My guess would still be its the temp sender - new position may sort it, but would check why original did not work. Is water gallery full of gunk?
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #132
Ok… so I’m back to addressing the not running so great. Cranks up and idles perfectly. But when open road driving I can’t seem to get her to run above 40 mph ( only been neighborhood driving so didn’t notice this) … she isn’t very peppy from the get go and seems to hit a wall at 40 mph… even when the throttle is fully depressed. Also never really feel the secondaries kick in either. I checked my linkage and when fully depressed the carb is at 95% full throttle.
Checked my timing. 1. Unhooked the vacuum advance and plugged it. 2. Got her warmed up. 3. The indicator line was dead on the bead / circle ( 7 BTDC) at 725 rpms with no/zero advance added to the timing gun.
Wondering as this dizzy isn’t the original or correct one for my 1980 ( pretty sure it’s from an earlier model ) … maybe that’s the issue or the vacuum advance isn’t working when at speed ???
Still getting 19-20 on the vacuum gauge at idle.
I actually checked my transfer case to make sure I wasn’t stuck in a gear besides 2H. No doubt I can feel the difference between 4L and 4H but 4 H and 2H feel prey much the same when driving. I did check and the hubs are “Free” and when in 2H the front drive shaft spins freely by hand.
Still no real power getting to the wheels … very sluggish and under powered.
I did notice this on the fuel window… seemed kinda low . Fuel delivery issue ?
On a side note… still not getting movement on my temp gauge. I used a thermal and the sensor housing was 184-190 after test drive. But the gauge barely moved. Gotta be the sensor !!
Regardless I appreciate all the help as I’ve learned a lot and she getting there slowly.
Checked my timing. 1. Unhooked the vacuum advance and plugged it. 2. Got her warmed up. 3. The indicator line was dead on the bead / circle ( 7 BTDC) at 725 rpms with no/zero advance added to the timing gun.
Wondering as this dizzy isn’t the original or correct one for my 1980 ( pretty sure it’s from an earlier model ) … maybe that’s the issue or the vacuum advance isn’t working when at speed ???
Still getting 19-20 on the vacuum gauge at idle.
I actually checked my transfer case to make sure I wasn’t stuck in a gear besides 2H. No doubt I can feel the difference between 4L and 4H but 4 H and 2H feel prey much the same when driving. I did check and the hubs are “Free” and when in 2H the front drive shaft spins freely by hand.
Still no real power getting to the wheels … very sluggish and under powered.
I did notice this on the fuel window… seemed kinda low . Fuel delivery issue ?
On a side note… still not getting movement on my temp gauge. I used a thermal and the sensor housing was 184-190 after test drive. But the gauge barely moved. Gotta be the sensor !!
Regardless I appreciate all the help as I’ve learned a lot and she getting there slowly.
Last edited:
Put a Paperclip on the secondary diaphragm actuator arm to see if it opens under WOT
Also, I run a bit more advanced here at 6k ft...dot at the edge of the window.
ymmv
Also, I run a bit more advanced here at 6k ft...dot at the edge of the window.
ymmv
- Thread starter
- #134
So I spoke to my buddy and he actually never installed the City Racer carb on his vehicle. I thought he ran it briefly . That being said it is a new carb and I have read of some issues being shavings from machining not 100% removed during assembly. These shaving can become problematic with fuel flow.
Does my power issue sound like a fuel delivery problem ? I would assume if fuel delivery was an issue there would be bucking or stumbling as some point not just the feeling of pulling a 10 ton trailer.
Just asking before possibly pulling the carb off and taking a look inside.
My plan now is replacing the fuel filter and test the flow inside a container ( coil wire pulled) from the fuel line to the carb. See if the flow is sufficient to make sure the fuel pump is working correctly. If so then decide if maybe something has clogged the carb/ jets.
Also probably consider adding 3 degrees of timing to around 10. See how that works as well
Does my power issue sound like a fuel delivery problem ? I would assume if fuel delivery was an issue there would be bucking or stumbling as some point not just the feeling of pulling a 10 ton trailer.
Just asking before possibly pulling the carb off and taking a look inside.
My plan now is replacing the fuel filter and test the flow inside a container ( coil wire pulled) from the fuel line to the carb. See if the flow is sufficient to make sure the fuel pump is working correctly. If so then decide if maybe something has clogged the carb/ jets.
Also probably consider adding 3 degrees of timing to around 10. See how that works as well
Last edited:
You haven't adjusted your brakes too tight i suppose?
- Thread starter
- #136
No… it rolls very easy with no brake dragging
Yup. My 2F can barely drive when timed to the 7* the FSM calls for. Advancing timing so the ball is at the edge of the window (approx. 17* BTDC) is generally regarded as a good starting point to timing for your particular engine. Depends, of course, on your compression, dizzy, carb, altitude, fuel, etc.
Perhaps you could try an old-school method of finding the timing right for you; time by manifold vacuum. I used this method for a few years when my BB disappeared out of the window as I advanced the timing to where it needed to be. Simply advance the timing on a warm, idling engine to your best possible vacuum reading at your desired idle speed, back the timing off a degree or two and take it for a drive. Try to induce pinging. If it's easy to ping, back off the timing another degree. If it doesn't ping, drive it. When I finally got one of those new-fangled digital timing lights I found I was running at 25* BTDC. I fixed my dizzy advance diaphragm and retarded it to 22* and that's where we like it for now.
Pics of your dizzy, inside and outside, please.
- Thread starter
- #138
I found my fabricated throttle linkage isn’t quite doing its job and I’ve got reservations on the whole distributor setup as it’s not the original 1980 model. Working on replacements for both. Here are current dizzy pics
- Thread starter
- #139
While waiting on replacements for the above parts… gonna start on the install of the carb cooling fan setup.
Now the PO removed it and it wasn’t wired in the current wiring harness so it looks like I’ll have to add all the needed wiring.
1. I have a carb fan that checking out with 12v power.
2. The computer relay checks out to be good and operational
Not 100% sure if the sensor is still good, betting it is, but will see once setup is properly installed. If not will replace with a compatible one.
Now I just need some help to build the proper wiring / connectors for each component and the proper way to wire each of them together .
I think I need 12v constant and 12v ignition wire and a 5 amp fuse in there as well to protect the computer.
Any other help or corrected info will help greatly appreciated.
MM
Now the PO removed it and it wasn’t wired in the current wiring harness so it looks like I’ll have to add all the needed wiring.
1. I have a carb fan that checking out with 12v power.
2. The computer relay checks out to be good and operational
Not 100% sure if the sensor is still good, betting it is, but will see once setup is properly installed. If not will replace with a compatible one.
Now I just need some help to build the proper wiring / connectors for each component and the proper way to wire each of them together .
I think I need 12v constant and 12v ignition wire and a 5 amp fuse in there as well to protect the computer.
Any other help or corrected info will help greatly appreciated.
MM
