If you make it out for 2012 I think the Oregon boys will have to come down and play again.
Looking great man! Time to chop the rockers..
Clint
Builds Moonshine - A Build Thread (32 Viewers)
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If you make it out for 2012 I think the Oregon boys will have to come down and play again.
Looking great man! Time to chop the rockers..
Clint
- Thread starter
- #782
If you make it out for 2012 I think the Oregon boys will have to come down and play again.
Looking great man! Time to chop the rockers..
Clint
I am going to try like hell to make it, so I'll be saving vacation time from when I start. The body will be a bit more cut and patched up before we make the trek out there.
I have a body for you, if you want it....its in good shape. ill get some pics of it today when I get to the shop.
free, just pay shipping.
free, just pay shipping.
- Thread starter
- #784
I don't want to swap out the whole body, I like mine too much. Is it cut up / would you cut it up? I could use a few sections
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
I don't want to swap out the whole body, I like mine too much. Is it cut up / would you cut it up? I could use a few sections
Jonny-Don't be afraid to swap out that body. It's not like it's a collectors item, and even though you love it, it doesn't love you back.
- Thread starter
- #786
This is true. I have a tendency to get too attached to my vehicles, can you tell?
If it turns out that this one is too far gone once I start patching it together, I'd love to swap the body out for a high roof model. Every time I think about swapping it out though, I come to the conclusion that I wouldn't want to wheel it the way I do now because it'd be too nice. Maybe someday...
See johnny, its not just me, putting a new frame under your body is like doing a heart transplant in a dead guy. But I understand your insanity.
- Thread starter
- #788
I'm getting close to the point where the sheet metal is the only part of the truck that is stock. Gotta get a diesel in there!
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
Everybody pile on Johnny:
Johnny your body is a piece of s@*#, doing any work on it is a waste of time and energy.
As soon as we get out of the salt I am putting a new body on our truck and scrapping the rusty heap of metal that is left. Your body is twice as bad as mine.
There is no other way to say than: it is STUPID to put another frame under that thing.
You don't need a clean truck, you should have one you don't have to worry about, but get a body that is already bent and dented, just not rusted to hell.
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Don't Listen to them Johnny.
I know how you feel.
Just go ahead and spend the hours it will take to get your truck in shape. Go ahead and chop the quarters, rockers, and anything else you need to get the job done.
It will be a lot of work but you get to keep your truck, I know I did the same to my truck.
I know how you feel.
Just go ahead and spend the hours it will take to get your truck in shape. Go ahead and chop the quarters, rockers, and anything else you need to get the job done.
It will be a lot of work but you get to keep your truck, I know I did the same to my truck.
- Thread starter
- #791
Everybody pile on Johnny:
Johnny your body is a piece of s@*#, doing any work on it is a waste of time and energy.
As soon as we get out of the salt I am putting a new body on our truck and scrapping the rusty heap of metal that is left. Your body is twice as bad as mine.
There is no other way to say than: it is STUPID to put another frame under that thing.
You don't need a clean truck, you should have one you don't have to worry about, but get a body that is already bent and dented, just not rusted to hell.
Thanks Kevin, doing it anyway. You should stop by some time, you've driven by at least twice while I've been there. Then you can tell me how much of a pile of garbage my body is in person
Nick told me you're moving. When are you heading out?
Going against the grain, it's what I do best. I'm glad someone likes this idea!
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Cutting body panels is only hard the first few cuts... after that it gets easy.
- Thread starter
- #793
Tough even on a bucket o rust.
I marked off all my cuts with masking tape to get a better idea of were i wanted to cut, then used the tape as a guide.
It works better than a sharpie line, they tend to disappear.
If you are using a grinder and cut off disks, use new full size wheels for the long/straight cuts.
There will be plenty of cuts to use up smaller disks on.
kevinmrowland
Forum Lifer
It's not that I don't understand your position, it's just that I know how much time I wasted doing the same thing.
Then I had to go and swap the body....
Now I'm in the same position again and need to swap the body....
They rot from the inside, there are layers and layers of metal in most of the rot spots. If you fix the outmost rot it will just rot from the inside further up and when you fix the outer layers there is no way to appropriately weld to the inner layers that are part of the structural system. New metal on the outside is not connected to the right spots on the inside.
The important thing to note for outside observers of this conversation is that we are not talking about the kind of "rust" that gets posted up here in the "look at all this rust on my new cruiser" threads where there is some brown dust on the lower back frame rail. We are talking about the full-on, salt soaked disintegration of ferrous metals, holes right through frame rails and body panels rotted completely through all the layers, as in don't poke it with your finger or it will all fall apart RUST.
I've already told you in person (multiple times) how much of a rust bucket piece of c@#p your cruiser is, I should know, mine is too.
I saw you hammering away over there a couple times, but I was on my way out and told myself I would stop in on my way back through........
KR
Then I had to go and swap the body....
Now I'm in the same position again and need to swap the body....
They rot from the inside, there are layers and layers of metal in most of the rot spots. If you fix the outmost rot it will just rot from the inside further up and when you fix the outer layers there is no way to appropriately weld to the inner layers that are part of the structural system. New metal on the outside is not connected to the right spots on the inside.
The important thing to note for outside observers of this conversation is that we are not talking about the kind of "rust" that gets posted up here in the "look at all this rust on my new cruiser" threads where there is some brown dust on the lower back frame rail. We are talking about the full-on, salt soaked disintegration of ferrous metals, holes right through frame rails and body panels rotted completely through all the layers, as in don't poke it with your finger or it will all fall apart RUST.
I've already told you in person (multiple times) how much of a rust bucket piece of c@#p your cruiser is, I should know, mine is too.
I saw you hammering away over there a couple times, but I was on my way out and told myself I would stop in on my way back through........
KR
Johnny....
Here is your donor body if you want it?
It is really straight. It may be a bit dirty from sittin in my shop for a while but it is rust free.
However, I CAN take a sledge hammer to it prior to shipping if it makes you feel a bit more at home with it!!
Here is your donor body if you want it?
It is really straight. It may be a bit dirty from sittin in my shop for a while but it is rust free.
However, I CAN take a sledge hammer to it prior to shipping if it makes you feel a bit more at home with it!!
The rockers are in excellent shape too!
- Thread starter
- #798
It's not that I don't understand your position, it's just that I know how much time I wasted doing the same thing.
Then I had to go and swap the body....
Now I'm in the same position again and need to swap the body....
They rot from the inside, there are layers and layers of metal in most of the rot spots. If you fix the outmost rot it will just rot from the inside further up and when you fix the outer layers there is no way to appropriately weld to the inner layers that are part of the structural system. New metal on the outside is not connected to the right spots on the inside.
The important thing to note for outside observers of this conversation is that we are not talking about the kind of "rust" that gets posted up here in the "look at all this rust on my new cruiser" threads where there is some brown dust on the lower back frame rail. We are talking about the full-on, salt soaked disintegration of ferrous metals, holes right through frame rails and body panels rotted completely through all the layers, as in don't poke it with your finger or it will all fall apart RUST.
I've already told you in person (multiple times) how much of a rust bucket piece of c@#p your cruiser is, I should know, mine is too.
I saw you hammering away over there a couple times, but I was on my way out and told myself I would stop in on my way back through........
KR
Kevin, you are completely right. It is rotting from the inside out and at this point in time, I am going to try to slow it down, moving down to NC is going to help that a lot. I still can't justify throwing a new body on a truck that I plan to lean into trees and whatnot. If I have to bob this truck or cut the roof off, that's fine, I want to keep this one as my wheeler. I will probably end up spending more time / money on this one but oh well, I'm enjoying where I am at this point. As always, thanks for the advice man
Stop by when you're free some time!
Johnny....
Here is your donor body if you want it?
It is really straight. It may be a bit dirty from sittin in my shop for a while but it is rust free.
However, I CAN take a sledge hammer to it prior to shipping if it makes you feel a bit more at home with it!!
Thanks for the offer Tom, I may take you up on that at some point. Gotta finish this project first!
- Thread starter
- #799
Quick question for you guys, the motor mounts on the FJ62 frame need to be slotted to have the 2F line up properly, which I did on the driver side. I lined up the drivetrain so the motor is straight up and down, but I can't decide if the tranny / transfer combo is too offset still. I never got to see the motor in my old frame without the body on it, so I'm unsure how it should look. The 3F bellhousing rotates the tranny / transfer down a bit but I don't know how that amount looks. Any advice guys? This look right or no? I need to have this right so I can weld in the crossmember mounts later today.
if it isnt possible to bring the rotation up from the passenger side, then I would say it looks good.
Otherwise, i would like to see the tranny sit more true or level.
Otherwise, i would like to see the tranny sit more true or level.
