Monstaliner Bedliner

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For an 80 series, did ya'll remove the window moldings and handles from the doors before applying? Does the rough texture cause noise when the moldings are reinstalled? I assume that the window gaskets were taped over?

Looking at doing this for a summer project, my clear coat is going downhill with each accumulated mile..
(also looking at coating my roof rack and armor)
 
magnetman said:
Thank you sir. It helps greatly that I love my mad scientist occupation

You can lightly scuff lizardskin and put ML over it. Does the company say you should not scuff it???

I would let the Liz cure 3 days and keep dirt off it. Run the brown pad we supply over it lightly and just vacuum it.. then roll the ML.
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If I may add to this, as I've done all the Lizard Skin products and the Monstaliner. I talked with both companies and they agree no problems, but if you use the Ceramic Insulation, which you would use last, then spray the Monstaliner on, the Monstaliner will interfere with some of the heat blocking qualities. I sprayed all the products on both sides of the floor pan and firewall, so I should have it addressed. Not running yet, so I can't write a review.
 
I have been reading a fair amount on Monstaliner lately.

One thing I can't seem to find is what are the long term fading results? Does Monstaliner hold up to fading well over time? Other brands I have had and liked faded over time if they got lot's of sun exposure. Which is the only thing about them I didn't like. Such as Line-X, awesome product but fades in the sun.

Also how does it adhere to plastic? Such as grills and trim? If the plastic is sanded or scuffed will it be fine?

Does it hold up well to chipping? Where I live the rocks are brutal in winter and in summer too. That means for daily driving I see a ton of gravel and small rocks. In just a few months of winter it is already beating the crap out of my new paint! Is Monstaliner going to take this kind of abuse?

Last question, can you paint over it? If so how does that hold up and obviously you can't scuff it before paint so is that a problem?

Cheers
 
RMP&O said:
I have been reading a fair amount on Monstaliner lately.

One thing I can't seem to find is what are the long term fading results? Does Monstaliner hold up to fading well over time? Other brands I have had and liked faded over time if they got lot's of sun exposure. Which is the only thing about them I didn't like. Such as Line-X, awesome product but fades in the sun.

Also how does it adhere to plastic? Such as grills and trim? If the plastic is sanded or scuffed will it be fine?

Does it hold up well to chipping? Where I live the rocks are brutal in winter and in summer too. That means for daily driving I see a ton of gravel and small rocks. In just a few months of winter it is already beating the **** out of my new paint! Is Monstaliner going to take this kind of abuse?

Last question, can you paint over it? If so how does that hold up and obviously you can't scuff it before paint so is that a problem?

Cheers
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*UV fading was not an issue for me over the past 2 years in WY and TX. Still looked like the day I applied it.

*Can't tell you on plastic. Never did that.

*Drove on sandy, road base WY granite/quartz chip roads for over 10k miles with no issues.

*I believe you can paint over it, IF the surface is properly prepared, PM Magnetman on this question for better insight.

J
 
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Also I believe Mace has done this to his entire truck. He lives in Las Vegas and has reported no fading over the last couple years so if it can handle the dry, nasty, desert heat of Nevada (especially Vegas) then it will hold up to just about anything.

I also believe that MM said that it is not to be users on plastic as the properties for adhesion change and it will not hold in for long. Definitely do not use a self etching primer from what he has said.
 
reevesci said:
*UV fading was not an issue for me over the past 2 years in WY and TX. Still looked like the day I applied it.

*Can't tell you on plastic. Never did that.

*Drove on sandy, road base WY granite/quartz chip roads for over 10k miles with no issues.

*I believe you can paint over it, IF the surface is properly prepared, PM Magnetman on this question for better insight.

J
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Sounds good and thanks for the info! I am also in Wyoming so if it is good enough for you it should be good enough for me.

Cheers
 
RMP&O said:
Sounds good and thanks for the info! I am also in Wyoming so if it is good enough for you it should be good enough for me.

Cheers
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I'm just south of you in Green River. I come up to the Jackson area quite often. Also, recently bought Wyoming's old diesel rig. Maybe we could meet up for a beer one day.

J
 
reevesci said:
I'm just south of you in Green River. I come up to the Jackson area quite often. Also, recently bought Wyoming's old diesel rig. Maybe we could meet up for a beer one day.

J
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Of course! Pm me....

I got all kinds of crap going on here all the time with trucks and Cruisers! :D

Cheers
 
Outside in the Vegas sun. No fading what so ever.. Still very happy..
 
Has anyone applied ML over Zero Rust?

The reason I ask is because the Zero Rust website warns against using topcoats containing acetone as solvent, which could eat through the ZR. I called ZR after I looked at monstaliner's MSDS sheet and saw1-Methoxy-2-propyl acetate listed. Apparently this is also known as PM Acetate, and it's a problem if the topcoat has much in it. The ZR rep said it's preferable if the topcoat has 5% or less PM Acetate. Well, monstaliner's MSDS lists1-Methoxy-2-propyl acetate at 1-40. 1-40 what? Well after a call to Magnet Paints, the answer was "probably means percentage". I understand the need to adjust ingredients intermittently to achieve proper viscosity, but that's big variable. And a big question mark surrounding whether this could be a big disaster.

My plan was to just use Chassis Saver, but due to availability and timing problems, I went with what I could get my hands on. I'm just wondering if anybody here has used this combo. Hopefully this is all a non issue. I have no problem hitting the ZR with a bridge coat of something, like a urethane to protect it. I just want to do it right. I appreciate your help.
 
Undermind,


Not much help, but I used Zerorust on the floor pan inside and out, then sprayed Lizard Skin products, before spraying the Monstaliner. No problems at all. Maybe consider the extra product and get some sound deadening and heat control as well.
 
If nothing else call up MagnetMan. They are really responsive to questions on the phone or hit their customer support email up.
 
Thanks scrapdaddy, I've bumped into your setup a couple times on a few different forums I think, while looking for info on this combo. It's the only case I could find where someone used these same two products.

And gregnash, I did call magnet paints and talk to someone there about it, but didn't get very far. I think I'll pm MagnetMan. His presence here is awesome.

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
The other thing you may try is the Jeepforum (I know blasphemy) but he is incredibly active there and was originally where his product started out. There is a HUGE thread (something like Monstaliner Interior and Exterior) with tons of informatioin and may be worthwhile posting up there.
 
over rust bullet

I applied it over rust bullet on an ARB Bumper and have not had any issues at all.
The bumper is constantly covered in road salt and the nasty brine stuff they use in NE Ohio.
My ARB was rusted out in 2 winters so time will tell how long this stuff lasts.

Great Product
 
I just wanted to follow up and say that the application installed over Zero Rust flawlessly. I followed the standard directions for both products and scuffed the Zero Rust for good measure before applying the Monstaliner.

I also want to say how fabulous this product is. I don't have long term testimonials yet like others found here, but this stuff is awesome. Easy application, great look and feel. And many thanks to MagnetMan and his continued support on this and many other forums.

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
Becareful.... stating such items without pictures around here can get you verbally beaten about the head and ears perfusely. Just sayin...
 
MaTm said:
I posted over in 80 Series Tech already, but I thought it might help here.

I ordered 2 gallons of Desert Sand roll-on, but ended up only using 1 since I decided not to do the roof.
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Could you go over the steps you did for prep. Did you pull window moldings? Did you pull door handles?
 
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