Monstaliner Bedliner (1 Viewer)

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Looking at some of these liner products i have seen complaints about them "chipping" off. Almost like they dont adhere well to the surface below. Is that the biggest "flaw" with these over regular paint? Also is that usually caused by poor surface prep? What kind of surface prep is recommended for the Monstorline?
 
rc51kid said:
Looking at some of these liner products i have seen complaints about them "chipping" off. Almost like they dont adhere well to the surface below. Is that the biggest "flaw" with these over regular paint? Also is that usually caused by poor surface prep? What kind of surface prep is recommended for the Monstorline?
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In my experience, inadequate scuffing is usually the problem. You must feel your pads or abrasive cutting the surface off the clear coat to generate a fine white powder. This is a good example of proper scuffing. White and silver paint is the hardest to see where you have scuffed. MEK wiping after scuffing will eliminate the whitish look here and remove any oils from your hands touching surface.
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magnetman said:
In my experience, inadequate scuffing is usually the problem. You must feel your pads or abrasive cutting the surface off the clear coat to generate a fine white powder. This is a good example of proper scuffing. White and silver paint is the hardest to see where you have scuffed. MEK wiping after scuffing will eliminate the whitish look here and remove any oils from your hands touching surface.
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^^ I have applied a couple of MM's Monstaliner kits ... NO problems at all.. It is all in the prep just like a paint job.

I too am interested in the Freeborn Red color match for my new 60.. Any color chip in particular to request MM to match up?

J
 
magnetman said:
In my experience, inadequate scuffing is usually the problem. You must feel your pads or abrasive cutting the surface off the clear coat to generate a fine white powder. This is a good example of proper scuffing. White and silver paint is the hardest to see where you have scuffed. MEK wiping after scuffing will eliminate the whitish look here and remove any oils from your hands touching surface.
.
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What do you suggest doing the scuffing with? What grit sandpaper should I us if i wanted to us a orbital?
 
rc51kid said:
What do you suggest doing the scuffing with? What grit sandpaper should I us if i wanted to us a orbital?
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If you bought a kit from MM it should have come with a RED scotch-brite pad. If not, go to the local hardware store and buy a couple. It'll leave the proper surface prep. 120-180 grit sandpaper will work as well. I hand sand all of my projects because I feel it gives the surface more "tooth" to grab the liner.

Also you will need to clean the surface with MEK and let dry before applying the liner.

Oh hell... here..read the installation instructions..and follow them...

http://www.monstaliner.com/monstaliner_install_guide.htm


J
 
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rc51kid said:
What do you suggest doing the scuffing with? What grit sandpaper should I us if i wanted to us a orbital?
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Thanks reevesci

I prefer hand scuffing as well. The pads in the kits are very coarse and do good job. They are brown not maroon/red and are the coarsest we have found. We sell extras on the web site. 1 gal kits have 1 pad, 2 gal kits have 2 included

Be advised, any mechanical sanding with palm or other type electric sanders can easily sand through paint to bare metal so you need to be careful or you going to be priming bare spots after sanding.
 
So for best adhesion, ML should be applied to some sort of primered metal instead of bare metal?! Basically, if you get down to bare metal you need to prime over it and then do your scuffing/prep? Just want to make sure so when I do my test run I get it done correctly.
 
gregnash said:
So for best adhesion, ML should be applied to some sort of primered metal instead of bare metal?! Basically, if you get down to bare metal you need to prime over it and then do your scuffing/prep? Just want to make sure so when I do my test run I get it done correctly.
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YES

Never to bare steel or aluminum
Preferably over scuffed/cleaned OEM paint
Not over cheap spray paint or uncatalyzed alkyd paint
Primers should be of automotive grade following specific recoat window on products directions. Scuff if specified. The only primer in spray cans we have tested is "Rustoleum Automotive" primer.

Safest primer for a quality job will be 2 part epoxy primer on bare metal

And never over self etch primers.
I've seen too many adhesion issues with ML over self etch and there are too many products out there to test them all. Self etch is lazy mans primer.
 
gregnash said:
So for best adhesion, ML should be applied to some sort of primered metal instead of bare metal?! Basically, if you get down to bare metal you need to prime over it and then do your scuffing/prep? Just want to make sure so when I do my test run I get it done correctly.
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Everyone thought I was crazy to apply the ML on Marley after I painted her.. This is the reason why G.. I wanted that strong cured out sub-surface prep.

Goss' ML will be applied the same way.

J
 
magnetman said:
YES

Never to bare steel or aluminum
Preferably over scuffed/cleaned OEM paint
Not over cheap spray paint or uncatalyzed alkyd paint
Primers should be of automotive grade following specific recoat window on products directions. Scuff if specified. The only primer in spray cans we have tested is "Rustoleum Automotive" primer.

Safest primer for a quality job will be 2 part epoxy primer on bare metal

And never over self etch primers.
I've seen too many adhesion issues with ML over self etch and there are too many products out there to test them all. Self etch is lazy mans primer.
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When I used to do sprayin bedliners we used a very stiff wire wheel on a 6" grinder, grinded to the metal in about 70% of the bed, wiped down w/MEK, then sprayed. Why is it so different w/this product than it is w/the real deal? Also, MEK works perfect but is dangerous. Got it splashed in my eye 1 time & it dropped me to my knees! My eye dried & shriveled up for a few days. Lucky I didn't go blind. WEAR EYE & LUNG PROTECTION!!!!
 
LFD2037 said:
When I used to do sprayin bedliners we used a very stiff wire wheel on a 6" grinder, grinded to the metal in about 70% of the bed, wiped down w/MEK, then sprayed. Why is it so different w/this product than it is w/the real deal? Also, MEK works perfect but is dangerous. Got it splashed in my eye 1 time & it dropped me to my knees! My eye dried & shriveled up for a few days. Lucky I didn't go blind. WEAR EYE & LUNG PROTECTION!!!!
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Same here except we used a nylon bristle brush and the grinder. Made quick work of everything and never took past just scuffing the paint. What I think they are saying is that most people wont have access to that kind of stuff so scuffing by hand is the best solution in that case. As MM said, using an orbital sander will scuff TOO MUCH and then you lose the cutting that the ML will adhere BEST to (at least that is my interpretation).

Gonna call tomorrow to purchase either a repair kit or qt of the Pyroclastic and test a small section on my dead tailgate. From there if I like what I see I will go ahead and do the inside of the new tailgate.
 
I forgot to post this over here.

Chassis_Saver_Store_Banner_600x120.gif


IT'S BACK FOR SUPER BOWL WEEKEND
BUY 1 GET 1 FREE CHASSIS SAVER™ SALE
4 Days - Thursday 1-30-14 thru Sunday 2-2-14
Available Only Online - Not Available in Stores

For anyone not familiar with this product, CHASSIS SAVER™ is a direct replacement for POR-15 at up to 45% lower cost.
We have been manufacturing CHASSIS SAVER™ for almost 20 years and it has been proven under the harshest conditions.
In addition to the auto restoration market, more than 500 townships, public works departments and DOT fleet maintenance
facilities use CHASSIS SAVER™ for protection of snow and ice removal equipment, highway, off road and general vehicle maintenance.

Starting Now thru Sunday 2/02 at Midnight
all CHASSIS SAVER™ Quarts and Gallons will be sold 2 for 1

Buy 1 Quart CHASSIS SAVER™ Get 1 Quart FREE - Coupon Code: CSQT-B1G1F
(1 Quart price $39.90) Choose 2 of same color/finish or 2 different

Buy 1 Gallon CHASSIS SAVER™ Get 1 Gallon FREE - Coupon Code: CSGL-B1G1F
(1 Gallon price $111.75) Choose 2 of same color/finish or 2 different

**********************************************************************************
To get the free item, YOU MUST PUT 2 ITEMS INTO YOUR CART FIRST AS IF YOU ARE BUYING BOTH, THEN
APPLY THE COUPON CODE AND WATCH A DISCOUNT APPEAR FOR THE FULL PRICE OF 1 OF THE ITEMS
**********************************************************************************

Standard UPS shipping rates apply - $11.00 for 2 Quarts, $17.00 for 2 Gallons

Place Orders Here @ www.shop.monstaliner.com

Colors/Finishes available are as follows:

UCP99 Gloss Black - Use as a stand alone direct-to-rust finish for underbody restoration and general rust control.
Topcoat if desired to retain glossy finish or to change color using any industrial grade oil base enamel or an
automotive grade synthetic, acrylic or urethane enamel.

UCP934 Silver-Aluminum - Use as a stand alone direct-to-rust finish for underbody restoration and general rust control.
Topcoating is not needed unless change of color is desired.

UCP98 Floor & Machine Gray - Use as a stand alone direct-to-rust finish for underbody restoration and general rust control.
Topcoat if desired to retain glossy finish or to change color using any industrial grade oil base enamel or an automotive grade
synthetic, acrylic or urethane enamel. Makes an outstanding, chemical and abrasion resistant coating for shop and industrial floors.

UCP970 Antique-Satin Black - Use as a stand alone direct-to-rust finish for underbody restoration and general rust control.
Note: Use of gloss black is recommended if you know ahead of time you are going to topcoat.

Note: Chassis Saver™ can be topcoated with itself or any other solvent base coating within 24 hours with no additional surface prep.
After 24 hours scuff sanding is required.

panels.jpg
chassis-saver-bent-panel.gif


Please see Technical Data Bulletin link below for complete directions on surface preparation and application.
CHASSIS SAVER™ Tech Bulletin
CHASSIS SAVER™ Material Safety Data Sheet
------------------------------------------------------------------
Further Details:
The Coupon Codes above ARE NOT COMBINABLE
If you want to purchase more than 1 set of Quarts or Gallons you can do so by just completing
your first order and then going back to place another order. Do so as many times as you like.

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Ok, I've read the entire 18 page thread here. First of all, truly impressed with the responsiveness of magnet man and the desire to meet the needs of the cruiser community. There are people in the business of making money and then there are people in the business of helping people and making money. Nice work ML crew and magnet man.

Now to my question referenced in other posts. Can ML be rolled on top of other products specifically for sound deadening? I'm spraying lizard skin on but then want to put ML over top of it. It can't be scuffed without hurting the sound deadening qualities.

Thanks
 
Your best bet is to call up MM and ask him specifically as he doesn't necessarily check this forum all that often. He is definitely responsive to PMs and emails too.
 
Thank you sir. It helps greatly that I love my mad scientist occupation

You can lightly scuff lizardskin and put ML over it. Does the company say you should not scuff it???

I would let the Liz cure 3 days and keep dirt off it. Run the brown pad we supply over it lightly and just vacuum it.. then roll the ML.

mtn2roady said:
Ok, I've read the entire 18 page thread here. First of all, truly impressed with the responsiveness of magnet man and the desire to meet the needs of the cruiser community. There are people in the business of making money and then there are people in the business of helping people and making money. Nice work ML crew and magnet man.

Now to my question referenced in other posts. Can ML be rolled on top of other products specifically for sound deadening? I'm spraying lizard skin on but then want to put ML over top of it. It can't be scuffed without hurting the sound deadening qualities.

Thanks
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