Monstaliner Bedliner (2 Viewers)

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JDS Surf said:
Maybe a silly question but when you are applying this with a roller how hard is it do the tight areas like the roof gutters etc? Are you using a brush or can you still get it in there with the roller?
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Tight areas are pretty much brush or spray only. If you try and push or squeeze the rollers too much you will damage the roller and/or leave too much coating in the area. I use a brush for gutters, door jambs, etc.. However, I will spray everything this time around since I'm coating my entire rig, jambs and all.

J
 
JDS Surf said:
Maybe a silly question but when you are applying this with a roller how hard is it do the tight areas like the roof gutters etc? Are you using a brush or can you still get it in there with the roller?
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I did my FJ80, they sell a sponge looking thing that you cut to size and press to mimic the texture on the close spots. Most you roll and you use a brush in the tight spots, once you paint the area with thebrush lightly press the sponge to add continuity to the texture. Very Easy
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OK, thanks, will do.
 
I spoke to Eric a couple times last week and this week. He whipped up a custom color for me, which arrived a couple days ago.
 
Damn. Did you sleep with him?

Been working on him for 6 months to make Toyota off white with no results.
 
I sent him a steel sample painted in the color I wanted and he was able to match it pretty quickly. Very excited to get this onto my rig sometime in the next couple weeks.
 
I am spraying half of two fenders, the hood and cowl and half of a tailgate tomorrow. Any idea of how much that will take?
 
2fpower said:
I am spraying half of two fenders, the hood and cowl and half of a tailgate tomorrow. Any idea of how much that will take?
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I am guessing 3/4 gallon
 
Ended up doing 2.5 coats with a little over 1/2 a gallon. Per Magnetman advice, I used part of killer beej and white to try and get an acceptable off white color. Ended up using 25% killer beej by weight to 75% white. May still be a little darker than I wanted, but it is what it is, and I could not get him to make custom mix for cyrus white.

Not very impressed with how good coverage there is with spraying it. Even with 3 coats, still had some of the primer visable. I am seriously considering spraying for quick application then immediately rolling the first coat to 100% coverage, then spraying second coat for texture on larger jobs.

Texture was pretty good in the end, but pot life was less than I expected per instructions.

Will post up pics later. Doing two tone, so giving it 12 hours to dry (baking in sun) and then see if I can tape off for the orange section.
 
Pics as promised. We ended up rolling The orange color on last night Went on very well, and the seam between the colors looks great I used some 1/4 inch vinyl tape I got years ago for taping car lines. Did a pretty good job of stopping in the bleed back
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Picture does not show the color very well... it's probably between these two pictures. Yes the tailgate is upside down -- and custom made for my 80. Oh, and yes, those are purple crocks! GO KSU!
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That looks sweet!

So I did get through to magnet paints on Monday. They were very helpful in the phone. I ended up going up to NAPA and getting a quart of Chassis Saver black which I brushed and rolled into the sand blasted bumpers, and BudBuilt crossmember and skidplate. That stuff is not easy to work with, it gets thick in the tray as you are working. Anyway, it's on now and dry, wow is it hard stuff.

I also ordered a quart of Monstaliner which I'm now waiting to arrive. Can anybody tell me if it's ok to fill in some rust pits with glazing putty before applying?
 
Don't know about filler on top of Chassis Saver. I know that you can quick sand epoxy primer and add body filler (mud) on top of it.

I do know that what I did was an experiment --- in the sense that I left 40 grit scratches on the tailgate as well as some good divots in a couple areas. The big test was that the front fender was caved in due to some serious offroading last year at SMORR. I beat it out pretty good, did a single skimcoat of mud and quick sand to 80 grit. For paint, it was nowhere close to good. HOWEVER, with Monstaliner, it looks great. This to me is huge success. Next up is the rear quarters on FOO, and I can not waste time on bodywork now knowing what it covers and hides.

So, in a round about way, my point is that small rust pits that you have primed will likely be lost with the application of Monstaliner. Should be no need to do anything else.
 
Yes, I just did my bumpers, plus my BudBuilt crossmember and skidplate. I had everything sand blasted first, which is what they recommend. The stuff REALLY sticks to freshly sandblasted metal, you can tell. It dries very hard too. I wiped everything down with acetone just before painting. It's not easy to work with, a few observations:

* Don't even THINK about working out of the can. It gradually gets thicker and thicker as you use it. You need to pour some out of the can into another container and work out of that. I like to use these nifty 8oz containers we get at the grocery store with chicken and ham salad in them, just be sure to get it REALLY clean (I run them through the dishwasher). It reacts with water moisture in the air. Don't pour any leftover back into the can. Let the container sit out and in a few hours it will be rock hard.

* Put the cap back on the can ASAP, but be sure to clean the lip of the can off well, then put plastic bags between the lid and the can. The instructions talk about pouring a little bit of MEK on top of the paint still in the can as a "float" to keep air from getting to it, then keep it upright.

* Wear gloves, and old clothes. I wore an old long sleeve T-shirt and taped it to my arms before putting gloves on. The can warns about not letting this stuff dry on your skin, there is NO WAY to get it off, you have to wear it off. I used it 2 weeks ago and I still have spots on my legs from a few drips that seeped through the cloth.

* Try to get a durable NYLON disposable brush. The cheap chip brushes start to fall apart as the stuff gets thick, and leave bristles behind, it's annoying.

* The instructions say it can't be rolled, but that's not true. I found some really dense 4" foam rollers, and used that for the second coat. Much smoother finish, but you have to work fast and don't go over it often or it will start to pull the roller apart.
 
KLF said:
Yes, I just did my bumpers, plus my BudBuilt crossmember and skidplate. I had everything sand blasted first, which is what they recommend. The stuff REALLY sticks to freshly sandblasted metal, you can tell. It dries very hard too. I wiped everything down with acetone just before painting. It's not easy to work with, a few observations:

* Don't even THINK about working out of the can. It gradually gets thicker and thicker as you use it. You need to pour some out of the can into another container and work out of that. I like to use these nifty 8oz containers we get at the grocery store with chicken and ham salad in them, just be sure to get it REALLY clean (I run them through the dishwasher). It reacts with water moisture in the air. Don't pour any leftover back into the can. Let the container sit out and in a few hours it will be rock hard.

* Put the cap back on the can ASAP, but be sure to clean the lip of the can off well, then put plastic bags between the lid and the can. The instructions talk about pouring a little bit of MEK on top of the paint still in the can as a "float" to keep air from getting to it, then keep it upright.

* Wear gloves, and old clothes. I wore an old long sleeve T-shirt and taped it to my arms before putting gloves on. The can warns about not letting this stuff dry on your skin, there is NO WAY to get it off, you have to wear it off. I used it 2 weeks ago and I still have spots on my legs from a few drips that seeped through the cloth.

* Try to get a durable NYLON disposable brush. The cheap chip brushes start to fall apart as the stuff gets thick, and leave bristles behind, it's annoying.

* The instructions say it can't be rolled, but that's not true. I found some really dense 4" foam rollers, and used that for the second coat. Much smoother finish, but you have to work fast and don't go over it often or it will start to pull the roller apart.
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Thanks for the info K, I am debating on trying this as a coating for my bumpers. Can you shoot me a couple of pics of yours?

J

EDIT** Just watched a video and said it was UV weak and after about a month it would start "chalking" out. **
 
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I'll try to get some shots of the bumpers in their glory now, they are TOTALLY in the way in my garage right now. Fortunately the wifey is being very patient and understanding about parking her car outside.

Yes, Chassis Saver needs a top coat. Honestly, it's a lot like POR15 but without all the fuss and special prep. I just received a quart of black Monstaliner the other day, can't wait to put it on the bumpers.
 
KLF said:
I'll try to get some shots of the bumpers in their glory now, they are TOTALLY in the way in my garage right now. Fortunately the wifey is being very patient and understanding about parking her car outside.

Yes, Chassis Saver needs a top coat. Honestly, it's a lot like POR15 but without all the fuss and special prep. I just received a quart of black Monstaliner the other day, can't wait to put it on the bumpers.
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K, as most know, I'm a huge ML fan. My 60 will be 100% lined. All materials enroute now. I will definitely try the ML on my bumpers. I am spraying (shutz) everything this time around.

J
 
I read post #15 on the first page re: sourcing just the pigment to create a "factory" color Monstaliner. Sounds good, in theory - if you can get a match.

Has anybody tried this and been successful? Post up comments and pics.

Anyone experienced/heard of Monstaliner NOT holding up well with sun and UV?
 
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